fredk

or for making a swage in sheet metal work

mmm, interesting. I never even thought of that. That might be a whole new market. We have several extremely large engineering companies here, The welders usually wear large leather gauntlet type gloves with a gauntlet cuff that goes up to their elbow

Nice work, especially on the 'Dragon Scales'. Anything like that is not easy to keep aligned. I think I saw these, or something like them. before as I then went and bought the 'Dragon Scale' stamp Not much difference between 'Cowboy Cuffs' and Archery Bracers The only difference I would do is make those straps of a thinner leather and skive both ends of them as well

I think a couple of youse are way out of order Its against the ethos of this forum to condemn anyone on the basis of their standard of work; From raw beginner, to the top professional, through folk who just want to cobble some thing together, if they enjoy making anything in leather no matter what their standard is they are welcome here. Some folk get better with practice, some don't. In the end if you enjoy leather working or crafting then you should be allowed on this forum Crap?

If you browse without logging in you don't see the special off-topic threads, just the regular stuff

Excellent. But you do know that is not a 'suggestion' but an indirect command to you to make one ?

Like it

When I cut the piece to go around the former, its about 4 inches high by about 9 1/2 inches long. I hold it in place and mark where the overlap is as the former is about 9 1/4 round. Then I trim off that overlap. I'm doing this one flesh side out as I'm going to glue onto the outside a thin leather with a snake skin pattern on it

Matt, I think you must be correct. Handstitched, that is Fiebings Purple, same on both sides. As it fits perfectly the way I want it to there is no need to stretch it tsunkasapa, Gremilns only cause problems with RAF machinery. As an aside; at least into the early - mid 1970s putting down 'Gremilns' on an RAF aircraft service card was a legit reason for when a ground crew could not locate and fix an intermittent fault as reported by the air crew. Gremilns were first discovered by the RFC during WW1. They are not what the 1984 film portrayed

I thought I'd just a thread to write down some of my rambling ideas, thoughts and findings Just one thread, instead of starting new ones or tagging on to old ones I'll start with this observation. I'm starting to make a dice cup. I've cut the leather to go around my former. I'm making this one flesh side out-grain side in. I wrapped the leather around my former grain side in and cut it to size. Just by chance I lifted the cut piece to check it and wrapped it flesh side in. This is what I noticed; grain side in = perfect fit But the same piece of leather wrapped grain side out = a gap, of about 6mm / 1/4 inch ! I'll be back with more ramblings

Strong double sided tape does that job

When I used to sew on the loops, a. I only sewed the length of the fold-over, not the whole belt b. I pre-punched the holes on the folded over part only c. folded over the piece enclosing the loop ends and glued down d. used an awl to make the sewing holes through the front part of the belt e. when it came to the belt loop holes I carefully used a a curved blade awl. Usually I had only about 3 or 4 holes to make on each edge r. when sewing I used a curved needle g. I gave this up and only try to use buckle with built in keepers!

Two materials; lamination pouches - the two bits of thin plastic you cover a paper page with then run through a laminator. Run the pouch through the laminator without an enclosed page and you get a sheet of thin fairly flexible plastic, As the pouch is designed to enclose printed sheets the plastic wont damage. The other, is you can buy thin clear PVC by the yard, but I don't know how it will affect printed material eg; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Soft-Clear-PVC-Sheeting-Crack-Resistant-For-Windows-Boat-Covers-Greenhouse-DIY-/142034218664?var=&hash=item2111e62ea8

I have an Airsoft 1911A1 I compared it to a real WW2 issue deactivated 1911A1 and as far as I can see, in shape and size it is exact. Obviously certain features and parts which are replicated on the Airsoft do not work but all the sticky-out bits are there. And it fitted perfectly in to a real WW2 Tanker's holster and regular GI holster I got the Airsoft 1911A1 to play with and to use for holsters but I came across two problems, both not directly with the gun but with the potential holsters

Read through my posts in this thread as a starter Come back and ask any questions

Do you charge this one with air or electricity?

When Chipster99 posted that link to the razor blades I too was wondering if the blades are the same. We need someone to compare the two blades. afaik that type of razor is not sold in N.I. but I'll have a look for it If the blades are the same then we need to compare prices. Currently I'm buying in a stock (about 30 or 40 a time) direct from China. They are working out at about £0.41 each (about 50c each) This is a lot dearer than I used to get them. Then they were about £0.25 each (about 30c each) I wish I knew how to sharpen them tho btw, get the Super Skiver its dead easy to use, also get a Safety Beveller, easy to use too but the S/S is better Avoid a small 'skiver' that uses double sided razor blades. Its actually a foot corn remover and as a skiver it is crap - yes, I bought two and have tried them. Fortunately they were cheap as chips

That is the standard blade for the 'super skiver', Identifiable by that long slot

but thick coats

Those are most very excellent I mean this as a compliment; they look like they belong on the pages of 'Packing Iron'

I sketch out on paper, try it on paper then make the pattern template out of cereal box cardboard

On this, if you use something like a nail or nail setter to punch a few ragged edge holes in the spring steel strip they'll give the lead something to grip and the lead won't slide off. An old idea I used to do when making heavy lead sea-fishing weights

Someone else had a similar problem,. They posted up back in February Two people at different times & places (maybe, I guessing) using the same product have the same or similar problem I'd suggest that its the Antique paste at fault. Maybe some change in its formula Have you tried Tandy Eco-Flo Gel Antique?

I once worked with a chap who had lost 3 fingers on each hand. We called him Kevin