fredk

Strong double sided tape does that job

When I used to sew on the loops, a. I only sewed the length of the fold-over, not the whole belt b. I pre-punched the holes on the folded over part only c. folded over the piece enclosing the loop ends and glued down d. used an awl to make the sewing holes through the front part of the belt e. when it came to the belt loop holes I carefully used a a curved blade awl. Usually I had only about 3 or 4 holes to make on each edge r. when sewing I used a curved needle g. I gave this up and only try to use buckle with built in keepers!

Two materials; lamination pouches - the two bits of thin plastic you cover a paper page with then run through a laminator. Run the pouch through the laminator without an enclosed page and you get a sheet of thin fairly flexible plastic, As the pouch is designed to enclose printed sheets the plastic wont damage. The other, is you can buy thin clear PVC by the yard, but I don't know how it will affect printed material eg; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Soft-Clear-PVC-Sheeting-Crack-Resistant-For-Windows-Boat-Covers-Greenhouse-DIY-/142034218664?var=&hash=item2111e62ea8

I have an Airsoft 1911A1 I compared it to a real WW2 issue deactivated 1911A1 and as far as I can see, in shape and size it is exact. Obviously certain features and parts which are replicated on the Airsoft do not work but all the sticky-out bits are there. And it fitted perfectly in to a real WW2 Tanker's holster and regular GI holster I got the Airsoft 1911A1 to play with and to use for holsters but I came across two problems, both not directly with the gun but with the potential holsters

Read through my posts in this thread as a starter Come back and ask any questions

Do you charge this one with air or electricity?

When Chipster99 posted that link to the razor blades I too was wondering if the blades are the same. We need someone to compare the two blades. afaik that type of razor is not sold in N.I. but I'll have a look for it If the blades are the same then we need to compare prices. Currently I'm buying in a stock (about 30 or 40 a time) direct from China. They are working out at about £0.41 each (about 50c each) This is a lot dearer than I used to get them. Then they were about £0.25 each (about 30c each) I wish I knew how to sharpen them tho btw, get the Super Skiver its dead easy to use, also get a Safety Beveller, easy to use too but the S/S is better Avoid a small 'skiver' that uses double sided razor blades. Its actually a foot corn remover and as a skiver it is crap - yes, I bought two and have tried them. Fortunately they were cheap as chips

That is the standard blade for the 'super skiver', Identifiable by that long slot

but thick coats

Those are most very excellent I mean this as a compliment; they look like they belong on the pages of 'Packing Iron'

I sketch out on paper, try it on paper then make the pattern template out of cereal box cardboard

On this, if you use something like a nail or nail setter to punch a few ragged edge holes in the spring steel strip they'll give the lead something to grip and the lead won't slide off. An old idea I used to do when making heavy lead sea-fishing weights

Someone else had a similar problem,. They posted up back in February Two people at different times & places (maybe, I guessing) using the same product have the same or similar problem I'd suggest that its the Antique paste at fault. Maybe some change in its formula Have you tried Tandy Eco-Flo Gel Antique?

I once worked with a chap who had lost 3 fingers on each hand. We called him Kevin

These are on hold pending collection

I think you have found the 'kings new clothes' syndrome with watch straps ALL the straps I've come across have been very stiff and uncomfortable to wear and they don't soften up. When enquiries were made the answers were " they are all like that, thats how they're supposed to be, no-one makes a 'soft' one because they're all supposed to be stiff" , et cetera, et cetera A watchband should be comfortable to wear. So comfortable that you forget you are wearing it. But just try finding one like that on the market Your nappa one looks fine to me. Wear it

I know all of these as lacing needles

You don't need, nor, afaik, can you get a chisel for making diamond shaped holes for lacing. The holes are straight sided rectangles I use my 'fid' to widen the the hole when a second lace has to come through. It doesn't cut the leather it just pushes through to make the hole wider, then I have to be quick to lace through as that hole closes up soon btw; I use 4mm chisels for 3mm/1/8 inch lace. The chisels punch a hole but do not remove leather. After lacing up, an easy tap with a mallet to flatten the lace and the tapping also closes up the holes more. I use 4mm not only just for the extra working clearance but I've bought '3mm' lace that was closer to 3.5mm, and 1/8 inch which as wider as well.

My use of lemon juice was taught to me by a top museum conservator at the RAF Cosford Museum. They use it on all the metals used in an aeroplane. Strength of solution dilution dependants on metal and amount of corrosion

Experience talking ?

You don't 'need' to buy a new tool for making a groove; your ruler and an old used up ball-point pen. A used up pen, no ink, press it hard and it will leave a fine groove for you to follow

9 hours ago fredk said afair, and I may be wrong, the political chat was supposed to be in a hidden section, just like the 'life style' leather section, and you were supposed to ask to be allowed into that section. However, it appears it didn't go that way. The 'permissions' doesn't seem to work properly. I've never asked to be allowed in to the 'life style' leather section but I see everything anyone posts in there

afair, and I may be wrong, the political chat was supposed to be in a hidden section, just like the 'life style' leather section, and you were supposed to ask to be allowed into that section. However, it appears it didn't go that way. The 'permissions' doesn't seem to work properly. I've never asked to be allowed in to the 'life style' leather section but I see everything anyone posts in there

1. If they are steel or iron, put them in a closed up bath of very strong lemon juice & water. Leave them for a couple of days, inspect, and renew the juice. Eventually the corrosion will be converted 2. once cleaned up you can give them a light coating of spray paint. You can get a spray-on zinc coating [at least you could]. Car restorers use it on steel/iron parts

The rotary knife is good for cutting any thin leather, up to even 4mm thick. It doesn't pull the leather so you get a nice straight cut the whole length