fredk

Excellent Thanks for sharing your results

I've finally tracked down two of the other sizes of KAM Snaps T3 = 11 mm diameter T8 = 14.1 mm diameter I think I'll order some T8. I want some bigger KAMs and I'll see if that size will cover the 15mm snap base edit; I just found another size T15 = 16 mm diameter I'm ordering those uns

My local version is called 'Astonish'. The instructions are exactly the same as 'Mop and Glo'. I used to use the M&G as it was years ago 'Future' then 'Pledge with Future Shine'. Then it went off the market and I found 'Astonish'. Astonish and the original 'Pledge....' was water thin and clear, now they are like diluted milk, but they dry perfectly clear. I've also discovered, I think, that the US M&G is thicker than water and needs diluting down Check the instructions on that BONA stuff. Especially if it says remove with ammonia. Thats a big clue. Actually you can remove it and thin it with alcohol. I've thinned Astonish with IPA for spraying. It doesn't really need thinning for spraying but the alcohol makes it dry really fast even though it dries fast anyways Thin it down with water until its like brushing on water. I prefer to paint brush it on.

If you have a gloss, add some talcum powder to it to make it matt

Check out 'Bona High Gloss Hardwood Floor Varnish' 32 oz bottle, C$19.99 at Lowes. Check that it says on the instructions label things like 'dilute into a bucket of water' 'use a mop to apply' 'remove after 5 coats' 'remove with ammonia diluted in water' There may be something much cheaper out there. I get a local version £1 for 750ml [25 oz] We gotta find you something

1. a beeswax/carnauba wax mix polish 3. my old favourite - thinned 'Mop and Glo' or similar

Right, we don't buy snap/poppers by 'Line #' but by the mm diameter of the head Here is a photo of KAM Snaps heads on the bases of two sizes of regular snaps On the left, a KAM head is wider than the base of a 12mm classed snap, but, on the right, the base of a 15mm class is about 1.5 mm wider that the KAM head Actual measurements [approx, cos my gauge ain't 100% accurate ] KAM head = 12.4mm to 12.6mm [slight variation] 12mm snap base = 10.9mm 15mm snap base = 14mm If you could be bothered you could file the larger snap base down to fit under the KAN head. It wouldn't take much filing to take off about 0.7mm all round it ~~ I now remember that I used these to cover the bases of ready rivets before I discovered double-headed rivets

Same direction as the rest of the strap, A quick sketch; That how I do them However, sewing is by far better, and I'll stick my neck out and say, saddle stitching is the best. When I was in that medieval thingy I had plenty of sewn strap loops to repair. They'd been sewn on with a sewing machine and when the thread broke all the stitching came away. We once had a very dangerous incident when one of the guys was in the middle of a sword fight demo and the stitching on the belt loop of his dagger sheath gave way, allowing it to fall to his feet, tripping him up just as his opponent was swinging a sword at him. Fortunately the opponent was able to to pull and redirect the blow. The belt loop had been sewn on with a sewing machine. We then went through all the equipment and I re-stitched everything that had been machine sewn

There are plastic 'snaps'. They are available in 3 sizes afaik. They are called 'KAM Snaps' T5 is the most common size. It needs a special pliers tool to set them, by squeezing and squashing the central pointy bit, which actually looks the same in your sample photograph. I use them on 'key ring coin purses' and other lightweight items. I must see if one of their heads will do the same job

The Art of Making Leather Cases Volume 1 by Al Stohlman, pages 7 & 8 Just a small selection of my slot punches; Most useful, especially for the slot for a buckle tongue. If I need a slot longer than one of these I just move it over and hit it again. I've accumulated these over the years. Buying a few now and then. Each cost between £2 and £5 through ebay. But, they are worth their investment. [ I think I need to sharpen some of them, they've been neglected, ] A picture; one of the strap loops on my 'EDC' pouch that I made over 20 years ago Remember, that's over 20 years of irregular use. It got more use this last 2 1/2 years, carrying spare masks, rubber gloves et cetera. It was used a lot from 2000 to 2016 though I skive the edges of the strap but leave the area where the rivet will go thick. I also glue a very thin [ 0.5mm - 1oz, or less] leather over the whole back piece. In the case of my mobile [ cell ] phone holster this extra [ minimal ] thickness helps keep the phone in tightly

a. I have various widths/lengths of 6mm thick flat steel bar. I clamp one of these to a work bench and slip the project over it. The bar is the anvil then I set the rivet, with or without a setter bar. You are doing the rivets the same way, just the strap comes through a slot from the inside [or goes into the inside] b. According to Al, his method spreads the load on the rivet head and the leather. I have a belt pouch I made over 20 years ago. When I made it, according to the instructions, with the belt straps just riveted on the outside, the rivets were pulling out of the main pouch. About every 4 to 6 weeks. A real bummer to replace the rivets as I had lined the pouch so it had to be taken apart, rivets replaced and it all sewn up again. Then I discovered Al's method. I redid the belt straps his way and I've not had to re-do the rivets since

I use a local to me version of 'Mop and Glo', an acrylic varnish. Its not unlike Resolene, but I found several years ago Resolene was no longer doing the job [ change of formula maybe ? ] My sealer is thinner than the US version, mine is water thin. Just one coat seals well but I put on two coats

+ 1 for stitching But when I use rivets I use Al Stohlman's method; cut a slot in the project, feed the loop part into the project and rivet.

I bought my awl handles in a hardware shop. As file handles. 50p each.

Any size you want, but I'd say over 1.25 inch to under 2 inches

That reminded me; last time I got some awl blades they were longer than the stated length. The seller was quoting the useable length, not the overall length which included some for going into the handle. eg I bought 1.75 inch and got ones over 2.3 inch

A. British 'coppers' were bronze which is quite hard b. Current 'coppers' are bronze coated iron c. you need to go back to pre-2000 coins to get pure bronze 'coppers'. Anything of that age are either in collections or has been gathered in by the Royal Mint d. I drilled a small pilot hole in the handle, then heated the end of the awl blade and made it burn its way into the handle e. I prefer shorter blades too

As the inner piece won't really be seen, it can be a butt joint or skive each end, overlap the ends and sew. I'd certainly skive the ends of the outer piece and overlap them

I would sew the ends of the inner piece together and have the ends of the outer piece at 180* from the joint of the inner piece

Chestnut dye can be got. Try your russet on a scrap piece first to see if you like it. It might be a bit too red

But . . . . but . . . . . hows anyone gonna knows whoms is 'Cactus Jack' !

yes, you can, actually better than those cheap eyelet pliers For your use I think grommets would be better. The grip side of the eyelet usually splits and can have small sharp edges whereas the grommet does not

Getting there. I'd still make the cactus cartouche longer with a bit more area between the cactus and the edge of the cartouche, especially at the top. When you cut the border its going to make the top of the cactus looked cramped. In art, things/people need a space to go 'into'; your cactus needs more space at the top above it for it to 'grow' into.

Mix up some 'saddle soap' and apply that to the hide, or just some neetsfoot oil on its own. Not too much, apply some by brush or sponge, allow that to soak in for a day or so, and repeat. But keep checking it. Never too much nfo. Just enough to get that hide softened and supple. It may work, but be prepared that it may not

as far as I can see the inner edges of the two cartouche with the cactus will be lost around the bend and they'll look bad. Do you really need a full design on the back? I think, you should get rid of the rear cartouche and have the main design fade away to nothing just beyond the bend, about 1/3 through the belt loop position [from the bend]. Move the front cartouche more to the edge and thin it and elongate it; overlap that upper leaf and lower flower petal; like its a concho applied over them. I'd move that border line along the edge closer to the edge. A few mm or bits of an inch can make a big difference