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Everything posted by fredk
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Good one. Your tooling is fine and the colour is nice Did you go by a supplied picture or something? to match the old one? Ach, sure you have a heart of gold and the faeries will always smile at you PS. I hate lacing too, I always try to avoid it
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Ornamental picture frame corners or box corners Examples; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163857612955?hash=item2626acc09b:g:lgoAAOSwyRNdePnc https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164169067027?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200818142055%26meid%3D35e844301b78429cb361ea5359562c0a%26pid%3D101113%26rk%3D7%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D174909568862%26itm%3D164169067027%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2563228%26algv%3DDefaultOrganicWeb&_trksid=p2563228.c101113.m2108
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I never ever use any thing like just nfo on my book covers. I've had experience of this coming off on paper. I do use a nfo/wax mix to polish them but I only use a real minimal amount Actually, you not really want the book cover to be too pliable. A stiff cover is better imo
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Here is what I do 1. on both the front & rear panel I glue on slightly stiff coloured lining leather - but 2. on the front panel I just glue around the edges and leave a middle section unglued. I also leave a long strip along near one side unglued. These have been decided before hand and marked. At the top of these patches which are not to be glued I cut a slot at the top of them. Thus when the lining is glued in these form a pocket and a slot for a pen or pens 3. on the rear lining I do much the same but I cut a wider slot and glue a zipper over that slot, so when the lining leather is glued in that forms a zippered pocket. 4. Sometimes I've mixed these, with a small zippered pocket on the front as well as an 'open' one and the pen slots on the back panel with an open or zippered pocket or even pen slots on the gussets The glued edges are caught up in the main assembly sewing of the bag
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All my machines use the same bobbin [15 class] so I use a cheap Singer clone machine for bobbin winding. I got the machine in a charity [thrift] shop for £10 as a 'non-runner' [needle was down, bent and jammed in the dogs]
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Thanks, gotchya. Its a fine bit of using what you have to the mostest degree
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I use an ad-blocker so I don't see adverts on any forums. I just turned it off for this site and the usual normal adverts have appeared
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Just cut that bit of bashed up thread off. Its obvious that its not needed. The wing nut can be replaced with a thinner lock nut There seems to be some hammer-bashing damage to this tool
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Are you sure its A4? It looks more like A3 to me
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If you can get that wing-nut off the end, then the roller unit I'd dunk into some hot oil for a while. Really hot oil, either clean engine oil, diesel, home-heating oil or even home cooking oil. Keep the oil real hot. Eventually the metal will expand enough to allow the oil to get between the bar and roller and allow you to separate them or, is that wing nut just tightened up too much?
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All punches need a good sharpening. Just invest in some supplies for sharpening what you already have
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No, its actually not easy to saw. It bungs up and clings to the saw teeth. For big lumps a cold chisel and thumper to split pieces off, or sheet metal shears, or wire cutters for smaller thinner pieces
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Actually some of my lead did come from a Church roof. Sort-of, It was left over flashing from the re-roofing job on the local Parish Church. About 20lbs. Too little for the builder to keep, I got it in exchange for biscuits. 20lbs of lead is very small in volume and not much of a roll. I still have that somewhere
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I accumulated my stock of ready-use lead, now at about 100lbs, from car tyre places. I got their used wheel weights. Here the lead weights had to be changed to zinc or iron but the places didn't know what to do with the lead weights so I got them free and used to cast sea fishing weights for mates in the fishing club
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oh, I didn't know that, not needing to use it. I prefer Semtex any way
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No. the measures are ; size A, B, C, D, E. Envelopes are often in C sizes. My printer used to use a B size for printing my magazines. D sizes are often used for cash payment envelopes and E size is a speciality size
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btw. I do some lead based pewter casting. Its easy peasy. I use a camping stove which runs on gas. I use an old soup ladle which I have bent the rod on for easier pouring. The ladle will hold a maximum of 200g of lead, for safety. I usually melt about 80g - 3 oz at a time. It takes just a few minutes to melt. I wear a leather welders glove on my left hand which holds the mould. I pour the lead into the mould and put the ladle back on the stove. I also use oil sand in some casting
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I think them be too big for the OPs needs
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or, small fishing weights, or stuff called 'Liquid Gravity' - expensive. 'lead' [now zinc] weights for fish tanks - to keep plants down
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Go to a fabric shop. They usually sell small weights, probably in zinc these days, as 'curtain weights'. Used by sewing into the hem of a curtain to keep it hanging down straight
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A4 is a European measure of area, usually used for paper, = 8.25 inches by 11.5 inches, approx
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I don't think you're going to get the tonnage pressure you'd need out of this one we've discussing. I have a Tandy press, 1.25 ton pressure. I can cut thru 2 - 2.5mm leather ok, but I've not tried any thicker. I think this one will be only a bit greater I think you should go for a converted press which uses a hydraulic jack
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Help! My cat peed on $300 worth of unused veg tan leather!!!
fredk replied to SlickWilly's topic in Leatherwork Conversation
ya gotta watch out for them durned meeces Many years ago I unrolled a large hide to find a meece nest in the centre. The meeces had chewed holes in the hide and used the bits to build their nest. Did they hole it near the edge? nay, right in the middle lengthways of the roll, but not only that, they'd chewed through the layers of rolled leather to each side of the nest, so when I unrolled the hide it had this repeating 'pattern' of holes down the centre! The holes weren't too big, about just larger than a US 1/2 dollar coin -
Without a clear photo, I think the curved part we see is just re-enforcement to the main base as in this one This is what I believe it to be, but this one uses a hydraulic bottle jack