fredk

Currently I keep my stiff leathers rolled up in large plastic boxes designed for storing re-useable Christmas trees. The boxes are about 5 ft long and and about 1 foot x 1 foot. The boxes are stackable. For my thin lining leathers, they are folded up and stored in a large-ish plastic box (actually x 2 of them). The long boxes are stored in my apartment's crossway hall and the back hall.

Not papyrus but birch and alder wood 'post cards' - the Vindolanda Tablets, or Letters. Thousands of them

Look for books by Olaf Goubitz. Especially Stepping Through Time. Archaeological footwear from prehistoric times until 1800 ( https://www.abebooks.co.uk/9789089320025/Stepping-Time-Archaeological-Footwear-Prehistoric-9089320024/plp )and Op lage schoenen in de kou Also, From the Museum of London; Shoes and Pattens Medieval finds from excavations in London ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/Shoes-Pattens-Medieval-Excavations-London/dp/1843832380/ref=pd_lpo_3?pd_rd_i=1843832380&psc=1 ) I have the first and last books on my book shelf and they have what you seek I have this book in PDF form. Its about 388 pages in PDF. Hard copy of the full book costs about £300. Smaller 'section' books cost about £25 each Leather and Leatherworking in Anglo-Scandinavian and Medieval York It was partly that and that the items were in a garbage dump that the Romans tried to burn. The outside burnt and sealed off the interior

I find that Resolene is no longer a good sealant. I prefer to use a certain 'floor polish' which is actually a water thin acrylic varnish. In your area it might be called 'Mop & Glo'. Thin the M&G with water and dip the collars into it. Dip, drip dry to almost dry, do this about 3 or 4 times and the collars should be well sealed

Just quoting to get your attention; How many, what size and what colour of snap / popper do you need? If its only a couple or few, I may be able to sort out some from my stock, with rivet caps to match and send them to you. FOC

They've held up very well indeed. If you fit the rivet cap down tight there is no stress on the glued joint. Even if you try to get the rivet cap off you need to wreck the popper. btw, I used super-glue gel which fills gaps better On this shield guige strap the poppers are on the tan part. I hid the base with rivet heads. I did this on all the shields I made and nary a one ever came off even though those shields were used in 'battle'

I've just finished 8 of these Christmas tree hangers. I took the notion to make them this afternoon and set-to earlier this evening. All put together with double-sided tape and glue. They're about 3 & 3/4 inches long by 2 & 3/4 inches wide at heel to toe. Showing both sides. All are red on one side and green on the other. I'll give them to my ladies tomorrow afternoon

I've never found any of what you want. What I've done is to super-glue the cap part of a ready-rivet on to the popper back plate. The short stem of the rivet cap fits well into the hole on the popper base

I have few hammers to choose from; a brass head, a tacking, a cobblers, a car-body plus a rubber & plastic head mallet, two different poly mallets. I use which ever come to hand when I reach into the tool box. Don't be paranoid about the smoothness of the hammer face. As long as there isn't a big chunk sticking out, slight dinges in a hammer or mallet face aren't going to transfer to your leather if you are just lightly tapping the stitching or glue joint. Its not a 6 inch nail you are trying to put through oak so you only need to go lightly

On skiving the area for a belt buckle I find slicing at an angle works best. On doing edges I use it at a slight angle

When I started in this leather crafting lark I used the 'folded card' method for shaping the ends of belts. Later I bought one large 'English' belt tip punch. That one large size does all the smaller one too. I've also bought a set of belt templates in acrylic, like these uns, (below) they cost me under £5 for the set but are dearer now, With them you have the two most common ends https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265264220814?hash=item3dc2faca8e:g:~VIAAOSwq1VhFIl5

Bees wax - warm some bees wax and warm up your piece. Rub in a good coating of bees wax, use a hair dryer to help make the wax soak into the leather. When you have a very good coating all over, leave it to harden, then buff it until your arms fall off

verily, interesting. I must try this way on my next project

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oh, gotch ya now,

One cheap cutter I think should be avoided; it has the two bars which you pass the leather through as a single bar with just a saw cut for the opening. I think this would limit the thickness of leather you can pass through, whereas on mine there is a captive threaded bolt to adjust that gap

Nice, but why dye it? Its good just as it is

I've had success with thin thread, on short sewing runs, by threading the needle, giving about 2 inches of free length, folding that back on to the main length then rubbing in bees wax and then rolling the needle and thread on the work bench, pressing it together to get one smooth length of coated thread. Takes longer to write this than actually doing it. btw; If I can I always pierce thread to lock it on a needle. afair I picked that method up from an Al Stohlman book

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Bestest years I had was as a postie in UK. Only company to give you a bicycle as your 'company' vehicle. Clocked up thousands of miles delivering post / mail by bicycle.

Depending on your exact requirements; just glue in a piece of thick compressed card, card such as you get on the 'do not fold' certificate envelopes. I keep this card for just such as use. Card has been used to stiffen leather bags for over 150 years so its a fairly common practice

I still have some veg tanned water buffalo hide which I bought from Le Prevo several (ie a lot) of years ago. I find it works just same as cow hide. What mine has, is a very pronounced hide pattern to it, rather than the featureless plain of a cow hide. I bought is specifically for that feature. I've never had chrome tanned water buffalo

If that one works for you - thats just grand so it is. I have one and never use it as its only good for measuring at the edge. Tandy used to sell one like that but it was in steps, like an Aztec temple, rather than the smooth triangle. I ordered the step one and got the other I use mine to search out thicker or thinner parts on a hide or piece of leather for certain projects.

Thanks for pointing that out That must have gone up in just the last couple of hours cos I was on the site about 2 hours ago and it weren't there then