Dwight

Welcome Loren . . . Loren . . . not everyone can view images posted as you did them. Use Adobe Photoshop or some photo program . . . cut them to about 1000 by 1000 size and no more than 500 kb for the best results here. Load them into a "Leather photos" file on your computer . . . save them all as *.jpg . . . go down to the bottom where it says choose files . . . click that . . . it'll take you to your storage . . . select the picture(s) and we can see them here. May God bless, Dwight

If you are dead set on using snaps . . . there are "one way" snaps available. You would put them on so that you would have to separate the two pieces of leather starting at the buckle and working your way back. Pulling on the end would not allow the snap to come undone . . . and while I very seldom use them . . . I do have them . . . and they do work. May God bless, Dwight

You'll need a better definition than that . . . full quiver . . . cheek wrap for the butt stock . . . handguard wrap for foend??? May God bless, Dwight

Belts can get pressure applied to them . . . and snaps can come apart. I quit using snaps on belts some 20 years ago . . . I only use Chicago Screws now With a dab of blue locktite or fingernail polish . . . they do not come loose. Only way I go now. May God bless, Dwight

It's only illegal if the law finds out about it . . . Not encouraging illegal actions . . . Just stating the fact . . . May God bless, Dwight

If you find out the answers . . . let me know . . . May God bless, Dwight

My favorite peeve is buying a beautiful piece of leather (regardless of where) . . . grabbing it later for a project . . . and finding a "hard" place in it . . . just exactly in THE wrong place for the project I've already started cutting for. I work around it . . . but it burns my gizzard. May God bless, Dwight

That's it . . . have run May God bless, Dwight

Take em one at a time . . . yes . . . everyone will have dye rub off. It is the dried physical pieces of the dye that did not penetrate. Rubbing with an old wash cloth or tee shirt or flannel shirt is how I get rid of it. USMC black is one I will not use . . . it is no more "black" than the pro dye . . . but it will rub off till the cows come home from the back pasture. I use resolene on the backside . . . sometimes I will use a glass slicker with a tad of water . . . then resolene . . . but I try not to buy leather that forces me to do that. I generally line a western gun belt . . . all of my CCW belts . . . all of my western holsters . . . and by lining . . .I make the product out of two pieces of the same hide . . . I don't use other leathers and I don't use two different thicknesses . . . but it is just MY habit . No . . . I do not special mix. Have never found a "need" to do it. The shades I offer . . . folks find one they like . . . all are Feibings Pro Oil dyes . . . mixed 50/50 with Feibings thinner. Hope this helps . . . holler if I can do more. May God bless, Dwight

Yeah . . . that one is simple Cut . . . tool . . stamp . . . dye ASSEMBLE AND STITCH Finish . . . Doing it in that order . . . you will be able to dampen . . . not slurpy wet . . . just dampen and bend it around a form and allow it to dry there. Stitching two pieces together and then bending . . . will 99 times out of 100 cause wrinkles on the inside and you will usually wind up with a shape you can live with . . . but it may not be "just what you wanted". Forming . . . mating to gether after formed . . . then glued and stitched will give you THE SHAPE you wanted. May God bless, Dwight

Chiefjason as a good process . . . and it'll work fine . . . On something like you are doing . . . because I have a sewing machine that will do it . . . because of the heavy duty curves . . . I would wet the quiver body . . . wrap it around a form that will give it pretty darn near the final shape you need . . . As it is drying I would wet the outside pieces . . . and form them to the outside shape of the quiver . . . and set the whole magillicutty off somewhere to dry I would then contact cement the outside pieces to the quiver . . . then head for my Cowboy sewing machine . . . take off my flat table . . . and sew the patches on. Then just finish it all up. But either way will work . . . my way is just a tad harder. . . but when you get the patches on . . . there will be no tendency for the quiver to want to go back to laying flat. Makes the final sewing a whole bunch easier. May God bless, Dwight

The Tippmann machine is very easy to use . . . https://www.tippmannindustrial.com/content/Manual-Boss-5-9-14.pdf will allow you to download the instruction manual. Just click it . . . check your "download" file . . . double click the manual there . . . and you're good to go. May God bless, Dwight

I've had a Boss since basically 2000 . . . could not guess how much I've sewn on it . . . belts, holsters, purses, knife sheaths . . . etc. The others may have a good warranty . . . it will not be better than Tippmann . . . from my experience. I live close enough to be there in a couple hours . . . for less money than I could ship it . . . so for the few times I've had trouble . . . I've loaded it up and taken it there. Ben or one of the others cleans off a work bench . . . and go to work on it . . . I bring it home . . . and go back to work . . . and have never been charged. Hard to beat . . . especially since they did have to replace a part here or there. May God bless, Dwight

I've never really found any other than you need to touch it up now and then. May God bless, Dwight

Good job . . . I had a 365 for a while . . . sold it to my son . . . never ever could get used to it . . . been a 1911 guy since 1966 . . . just cannot get the hands to say "Alright . . . this one is OK" They always put up a fuss and ask where the gun is. Ahhhh . . . such is life. May God bless, Dwight

That's basically 7/8 oz . . . my usual holster making material . . . I double it . . . contact cement the two together . . . and mold the holster from that. I also make a lot of other stuff out of it . . . probably my favorite thickness . . . makes great CCW or cartridge belts . . . Vacuum forming rig helps out. May God bless, Dwight

ST leather in St Louis . . . or Tandy Leather . . . both sell on line . . . https://stleather.com/ https://tandyleather.com/?utm_source=GMB&utm_medium=Yext&y_source=1_MjM3NjIzNTItNzE1LWxvY2F0aW9uLndlYnNpdGU%3D I buy from Tandy . . . have no complaints on the stuff I've gotten from them. May God bless, Dwight

Lots of us on here make those things . . . This is my most popular one . . . hangs off your belt . . . strap goes up and over the top of the phone . . . then down between the phone and the outside of the case . . . very secure. May God bless, Dwight

Unless requested by the buyer . . . I only make 2 1/2 belts. Adding 4 inches is the "standard" . . . and it don't make any difference where or how you measure it . . . so long as the regular belt the buyer wears and the gun belt are measured the same way. Measure the buyer's belt to the "most used" hole . . . it'll be the one that is wallered out. But as a practice . . . I always measure from the edge of the buckle . . . That does not appear to be a money belt . . . but most of the reason it curves is his pizza belly and the weight of the cartridges. They are some kind of heavy when you put a bunch on a belt like he has. The holster can be stopped from pulling up with a thigh strap . . . or sometimes folks will sew in an extra piece of leather that goes up and pushes against the belt so the holster can't pull up. May God bless, Dwight

Some time back . . . I filled a quart jar with steel wool . . . poured in the suggested apple cider vinegar . . . and waited a while for it to work up. Brought the jar into the shop . . . liquid is some kind of super dark black . . . BUT . . . put a piece of veg tanned leather in it to check it out . . . it turns the leather a very pretty dark grey . . . but it ain't black. Did I miss something in my journey??? AND . . . what is the preferred final step to get the vinegar acid out of the leather???? Thanks, may God bless, Dwight

Absolutely beautiful . . . thanks for the look May God bless, Dwight

Beautiful leather and metal work . . . but I'd love to see the knife May God bless, Dwight

When I do zippers . . . I use Weldwood and contact cement them into place . . . Works great. You just have to be sure to use two coats most of the time . . . May God bless, Dwight

Kydex is the word there. With a heat gun . . . you can virtually form it into almost any shape you want. Give it a good sanding before forming it (whole lot easier while it is still flat) . . . and then you can contact cement your liner and your outer cover to it . . . holds good. May God bless, Dwight

My gun belts are all of 7/8 oz leather . . . exactly 8 oz is 1/8 of an inch . . . so a double layer is 1/4 inch if both pieces were a full 8 oz. Usually the leather I get tends to be a bit shy . . . so my total thickness usually runs in the .200 inches or thereabouts. I generally cut both pieces from the same hide . . . if there are any small blemishes . . . they go to the inside. And yes . . . if the money belt were curved . . . it would fit better. The last couple I made were of 5/6 oz and I did them rough out . . . so they would cling a bit better to the wearer. Again I did not get any complaints . . . but I'm sure I know what happened . . . they cinched them up good and tight to start with . . . and the body heat and perspiration tended to re-mold them . . . similar to that which occurs with regular work belts. I've played a bit with using two different thicknesses . . . and never really liked the feel or the look . . . just one of those things on me. The big aggravation is that using a thinner lining . . . it will tend to bubble and buckle . . . looking wrinkled . . . I try to stay away from that look. May God bless, Dwight