CowboyBob

This machine was designed for shoe repair & when you sew on something that you want to look nice it won't like nice.It has a top feed using the foot & they have teeth on them to grip the leather,they will leave marks & scratches no matter what you do.So if you stick to thin & soft leather it'll be ok. They are a great machine too have around for certain things BUT not for finish work. Bob

The largest thread this machine can use is #92. On these motors that are 220v they are usually 3phase & you probably only have single phase ,so this will require a new motor so you can call or PM me f/more info.

I have a couple of customers that put a barney knob on them & crank it by hand,they spin real easy one Amish Harness maker lets his kids handcrank his & they do alot of small repairs in harness & headsalls. You need to check the the pedal that is left is the one that lifts the pressure foot you'll need this one for sure.

I can't read the tag but the machine looks like an Industrial model# 95-40,shorter arm version of 96-40,which has a rotary hook and made for tailors & dressmakers will use 69 thread & not recommened for heavy sewing but it might sew chaps.

That sounds like a good deal,we have a few parts,needles ,feet & edge guide avaiilable for it.

If it has feed dofs(teeth under the needle plate) then it shiould sew an easy 3/8+ of leather/some parts for some of these are hard to get.They made over 80 models of the 45k & some were for darning & don't have feed dogs & some take different needle plates that have been discontinued yrs ago.I suppose they could be made.

I've seen alot worse,the main thing to do is oil every spot on the whole head that needs oil.The minor rust you have can be steel wooled. Great Find!

Union Special mainly made garment machines where Singer had alot of heavier machines dedicated for upholstary & leather work/I don't know of one they made f/leather or even a walking foot type heavy enough tto do the job.I don't know of a ser# lookup site either,parts can be a problem also many have been discontinued.

Bill, The best way to tell if it's tight enough is when it don't slip anymore.These belts do get old (like to rest of us) and don't work good anymore & you might need to buy a new one. Bob

you found a great site here.

On the top shaft your going to have to pull off the belt pulley then the bearing,does this bearing have screws in a collar that have to be loosened to get it off?If so it's a 111w155. We also pretty much have every part in stock for this machine.

This is a 111w that has a walking foot will sew just under 3/8" use 46,69,92,138 thread.Parts are still available as are feet. At $85.00 it's a bargain,esp if it sews. BHTH, Bob

It's a high shank foot(we have alot of different feet on stock) You probably need to get a standard industrial thread stand the has a place to mount the spool & hook directly above to allow the thread to come off w/o getting caught

We stock it in 4oz,quart & gallon.

Those seats look great!!

Great looking work!!

You can probably use steel wool & polish that plate up real nice.We use a wheel in the grinder & it does a great job but costs around $50.00. We also stock the plates & etc for the 31-15 too.

That's the way they usually look when we get them too.Then here's an after pic,I think the machine gray looks better.

Yes,the D point will make quite a different looking stitch than the S.We don't sell the D's anymore at all. The S points sure will make a nice looking stitch.

Hello Mary,Ok,I'll try to explain the best I can. Any machine that has a speed reducer on it will always turn harder because your turning the motor 5x faster because of the speed reducer.The way to run it is when you get to the end slow down & learn to leave your foot off the pedal when the needle starts to go up so the needle will be @ the top so you can pull out your leather. These new style of motors have an electronic not mechanical brake,there is no adjustment on them. The stop when you take your foot off the pedal. #2)The plug @ the back of the motor is for the light. #3)Are you sure the thread is around the second tension on the side 1&1/2 times? P.S.you don't need to stop to put it in reverse(if you don't want to),you can do it when you see the needle going in the leather @ the last stitch(rumnning slowly) & then push the stitch length lever up. I'll give you a call today & we can go over this with you today. Bob

Welcome aboard,I also am from earth pretty nice here huh??

Wiz, They can jam alittle easier than a machine w/a horizontal hook esp if you don't hold the thread like you should.but some like them better because of the larger bobbin.

Years ago we used to rebuild aot of them & make them a high lift1"so they would sew 3/4" & also put reverse on them.As they come from the factory they will sew 1/2",they also take up to 415 thread w/o any problem. Alot of parts are still available for them.

Welcome,I'm glad you found this site it's great!! It's great your Dads been in business so long & that your helping hom,my son & I work together too!I've been through Medina a couple of times & don't remember seeing your Dads shop.Maybe I'll look alittle harder next time. Bob