CowboyBob

OR here's an idea. You guys ever see those fire crackers that have a string on each end and you pull them apart to make it go bang? You could tie one end to the bobbin and the other to the end of the thread, it'll go bang when you get to the end and since the string breaks it won't break your needle. I'm joking of course. Don't anyone be dumb and try it but if you do get video. Billie, That's a great idea But it might discolor your leather when it goes off.

Billie, Yes,try any of the 3-places you mentioned,ask for a 3L or 3/8" wide belt & whatever length you need.

Yes,Steve is correct it's a Adler 105-64 should sew real close to 1/2" & use up to #346 thread.

That's a great idea! A lot better than what one customer did,he figured if he tied the beginning tight it would just stop sewing when the bobbin got to the end,it did,broke his needle & bobbin case tension spring too !!! LOL

Sometimes you have to grind the slot wider on the foot to make them fit(between the 2-points @ the top where it fits in the bar)

the 211G166 has a walking foot needle feed & reverse.

Billy, No,it won't hurt a thing other than if your going fast & want to stop you'll have to remember to slow down when you get to the end of your stitching.

Make sure you have it threaded correctly,if so then tighten the top tension,it's your needle thread that is looping underneath.It looks like your trying to use #69 thread that's probably about all it can use as this machine is a Tailor machine for sewing clothes but it might handle up yo 1/4" of leather.

Darren, If you change the shuttle driver the standard 31-15 parts will fit,the differnce is it's larger but thinner so I doubt if it even holds anymore thread but alot of times Singer would make these certain sub-classes like this to sew certain things a certain way.The bobbincase costs more than the 31-15 one. Here's one example,a Singer 98-3 made to sew (re-cap) tires,made in 1915 & before I owned it I never heard of it.But in 1915 they didn't make good tires & Singer says the result" is a tire equal to or better than the original & you can also reuse one w/a small blow out that have been vulcanized" But back then there was alot of different things that were made,that required sewing that we don't use today or are made a different way or different material that made the machine obsolete.Some of them can be adapted to other uses.

There was a place in town here that I went to when I walked in the room there was 2 of them running @ once,a real nice clunk,clunk noise.The used then for sewing cotton conveyor belts.The company was boughyt out & the new owner called me saying he had some machines for sale but it wasn't these & he said he never knew about them.

There's a few different things it could be,the most common is the screw loosens on the gear that is under the shuttle,ou get to it b the back slot where the square gear comes out on the arm.ou need to shine a light in there whie turning the machine around to see it.It takes a small screwdriver.

Ok,I just found out what I thought & it's a fake! Ron's correct they never made a short arm.

No,there isn't any that will fit that I know of,but on your 206 the center toe can be ground back to the center of the hole & that will help.

I don't want to step on anyone here but I wanted to let you know we pretty much have every part,screw,nut,bolt,needles,feet & etc in stock for this Singer 111w machine.

It was made for doing the same as your 12F welts on shoes & boots,although you can also repair tack on it your limited to the 4" workspace.

I have one that sews real good & I'm trying to get $750.00 for it.

On the top of the machine in the center you have a spool pin,right behind it is a large knurled nut,this is your foot pressure adjustment,turn it to the left & if you get it to loose the machine will start skipping.

Great machine for chaps or up to 20 oz. of leather,uses up to #138 thread easily,207 if you work w/it. Forget breast collars on these machines,you need something heavier. The 225 is a small bobbin w/o reverse,the 255 is a large bobbin w/reverse

Trox,to make things easier I changed my name to CowboyBob. Even though I'm a Juki Dealer they never seem to tell anybody much about thier machines,unless I ask,so I'll give them a call tommorrow & find out the story on the 441's.On Juki's other machines they always have a model riveted on.

Andrew, The are built in different factories,there is alittle bit better quality in the Consew,but we have sold alot of both of them & they hold up very good.

Some of the older Chandlers were rebadged Adlers(105-64)most parts are still available,then there's the newer ones model #305(made in Japan) that are still needle feed like the Adlers & take a few different parts than the Adler& most parts are still available for it too.Either one will sew to around 3/8" or so.

Yes,I would recommend the 206 also,it's built better.

Glad to help.

I have sold both of these machines in the past & do not want to sell them now.There is a reason (build quality) why they are so much cheaper than a Consew.

Looks like a great buy.Years ago we used to rebuild alot of them & they would sew an easy 3/8" or more of leather.