RockyAussie

Very good idea. That should help to see if that motion can do what you want or not safely. If it is in a foot treadle you may want to try it with out the belt connected as well if he is willing.

Normally when I strap/rope something down you could turn the trailer or vehicle upside down and not lose the load. It DOES NOT work with sewing machines as I have learnt the hard way. Even with the head out they want to not stay upright and laying them on mattresses can still bend things around I found. I say get some blocks of wood and tape them to the back of the head until laying down they can not bend anything. If they are laying down they cant fall and break and bend things but still they'll slide around if you don't secure it more than you can imagine. Putting one of those rubber toothy door mats under helps some as well.

Are you trying to load all the stl's together. Most stl's I do are way down in size compared to the 1.4mega you can load in one go here on LW. I have found that if the load fails when you go too high you need to go off and come back and start again. The previous writing you've done will be remembered and put there again and you only need to put in the smaller file size (less than 1.4mg) This bobbin carrier done in my AutoCad is only 39kb. BOBBIN CARRIER.stl

Nice looking clips and nice work shown on the insta as well. Would be interested to know pricing and quantities including the larger ones.. You could pm message me here if you prefer. Note I am in Australia.

I did once have a old friend build one up for me using the brazing method and it held up well for years. Machining was just a file and fine wet and dry by hand and eye.

Thanks ...the lasts look alright. When you do your toe 1st pulling you should see the heel counter cup in around at the top line. It appears to me that your curve has not enough swell at the lower side compared to the top but that may be just the picture perhaps.

Could you post a picture side on of just the last?I am curious to see the shape that you are starting with. The quarters look to be too high on where they connect to your vamp and the backward angle of your heel counter also makes me think this. Also I think your top line pattern may be too high on your last giving you an oversized upper to try and deal with. I must congratulate you on your efforts so far and thank you for sharing your journey with us all on here.

Toms right. I just use a battery hand drill with a hole punch down on to a plastic kitchen cutting board. Same thing works well for sharpening the punch onto a fine sanding belt as well. Try going through something like this without a drill and punch.

If the 335 does the work they way you want it may pay to try and adapt it to suit your needs. A singer patcher has a nice front or end handwheel control system but they tend to not stitch that nicely compared to most sewing machines. Not at least without years of practice any ways. At the base on a 335 there is a lot of free room for bolting on attachments and I would think if you were to have a talk with a sewing machine repair man it may be possible to come up with a way to bring a pulley and belt to the bottom front and construct a right angle gear arrangement to mount a hand wheel onto at the front. I don't know much about Parkinson's but I think that means that you are not able to always control the muscles reliably as you would want. Whether you used a motor to slow it down or not would probably not make it much safer for you to use. I have seen many other people on here that for one reason or another would like to have hand control machines and I think that if you come up with something (adapter kit) there would be a fair bit of market interest. There are many little right angle reduction gearboxes available online now days sooo .....maybe not so hard.

Yep. Quick if you got a whole heap to do.

Fish tank air bubbler hose. Cut to length and slice up the side and push it over the clip. Silicon it on if used a lot.

Very nice work. I like the handle holding loops in particular. On the pla+ filament I use I have found that in some areas you can get a good smooth surface by using a temperature controlled soldering iron and a bit of rubbing. I look forward to seeing more of your work in future.

Highly unlikely you will ever need to need it. Time to replace the machine before that part would ever go.

You can get very good results without going over the top of the leather if you want and it does not matter on the underside generally. If you see how I did a handcuff pouch in this post should make it clearer. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/77677-how-to-make-a-press-for-moulding-leather-pouches-and-such/?page=2 For the fill you may use 20 % but keep in mind that you can put in posts hidden inside and the wall thickness you give on the outside inside can give a lot of strength where you may want it. Sometimes a hole once given say a 2mm wall thickness becomes a very strong support pipe if you get what I mean.That can be drawn inside the solid as a hollow tube and the wall thickness takes care of the rest. This is how you can reduce the print time and still have very strong parts. In the handcuff pouch although the holes on the outside could allow bolting together they are actually there in case I wished to clamp the parts together and the holes are really support poles in use.

I look forward to seeing the progress pics as you go and hope to hear some good news on the machine as well of course.

Oh so true. I wish I had this technology around 20 + years ago. So many products in production I make every day would be made differently and quicker with the aid of the 3d printer and laser I now use. Barely a day goes by that another new thing is being designed and printed.

Just FANTASTIC is all I can think to say.

Very well done and thanks for sharing.

The one in the video above I bought from the Cowboy seller here in Australia. The brass one in the other video's on my youtube are just ones that I have made myself by cutting down some standard feet and building on from there. You might find something in this AliExpress page of interest such as number 18 for $6.55 au or number 20 for $17.23 au. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33049213271.html This post I did awhile back shows both the one I made and the other above with alterations I had to do.

A wire brush is not likely going to clean out any stick stuff that may be on your feed stone. Try rubbing a good bit of talcum powder onto some scrap leather and feed it through so that the powder beds into the stone pores. I find that it is common that dumb retailers and sometimes tanneries will stick hide size information on paper that is then sticky taped onto the back of the hide. Even when you are splitting hides it can stick and come back up and around and !!!!#### is the result. I cant help you as to whether the deflector is set up alright still as both mine have suction and don't need them things. Hope that helps.

My you tube stuff should show up in my signature as a link here on L.W.as far as I know but none the less this should take you to one of them - With the exhaust system there is no scrap deflector thingy, just the deflector that sits inside the bell knife. It should be maintained at around 15mm back from the edge. The vacuum pulls the leather in and down into a collection box which rarely gives any problems with stocking to the feed stone or feed rubber or steel. Check out the circular skiving video and you can quickly appreciate that it shows no problem even on the soft upholstery type being used there.

I thought about that with the one that I was doing in that post but the knifing cost with all of those holes and slots would be way up more than I would like to commit to. I thought about doing it on the laser but I didn't like the look of all the burn holes to clean up after. I have been tossing up whether to get the knives done just for the outside cut then print a pattern with enough thickness to hold all the tubes and slits and do it as a second cut. I'm thinking off using some stainless seamless tube and just sharpening the end like I do my hole punches. Whack them in a drill and spin them sharp off the side of my belt sander and polish up. Might be worth seeing how much I can get the hole punches from some dye making supplies first though. I have seen them set into acrylic before and I think they would work better in the pla+ print myself. Regards Brian

From what I can see you are getting too much top tension. This may be because I believe you have the thread at position 5 in the wrong place. Your thread return spring can not operate with the thread going through behind where you have it. It should go from the spring straight up to the thread lifting arm at 6. In your first position it dos not show your thread path back to the cone. I would have expected to see it raising up to stand behind to a thread loop and down to the cone. Serafil is a very slippery thread and tis possible that your bobbin may need to be tighten a 1/4 turn as well.

The link I intended to put in above when I said this was this one - Sorry about that........I'm gettin old or would ya believe more stupid