RockyAussie

I will have to check and get back to you later.

It is a sort of walk up the arm and cylinder arm combination. Best I can tell the arm can swivel 360 which means that you could sew all the way around a bag without the gussets getting in the way. Very lacking in information that can be found on it. I did find another similar machine which has a dog foot feed as well but again Very lacking in information. Come on Folker.........Give it a go. The best stuff will always come from the people like you.

Maaaann you shore jumped into it on the printer stuff. LOVE it. I have been considering making up something but I would like to use some little motors like on the printer to keep the roller turning continious. Some paints dry onto the rollers very quickly and you will quickly get dry lumpy problems if it does not keep the paint moving. Yep. On pla+ I usually run mine at 65 degrees.Aluminium heather plate under the mirror and cork under that to keep the heat more even and stable. I think the mirror is holding up better than the original. Mind you I use a separate cooling fan for when the job is done and make sure that it all but pops off of the plate when I remove the job. Are you using Cura? If so what version? You did real well printing that foot as you did. I think I would have added more sidewall thickness and printed it the other way up with light supports though. Looks more original like the way you did it. I think you are going to be coming up with some amazing stuff and I hope to see it. Is that leather stuck on the bottom of the centre foot? 335? Hey ...here's something I found last night ...I WANT

This help? Might help to talk to Tim from his experience before buying perhaps the wrong thing. I got one and for purses I reckon not.

I dont think the bracket goes anywhere on the machine head but I have seen something like it before. It may belong under the adjustable foot pedals. or......

Lousy pics but help to explain better ......a bit This one is the first on the combining machine. Here I am stripping a belt filler which turned out exactly wrong. I forgot in the drawing to account for the knife thickness. Worked beautifully though

Hey thanks for the thought jimi and Folker, I am interested to have a play around on some of this stuff soon. Just at present I have a large scale operator wanting me to high tech up their belt making department and that is allowing me to come up with a heap of interesting stuff. Today I worked out I can print spacers for the various width strap cutting as well as the belt combining machine. The pla+ is way quicker than me on the lathe to print and I reckon their going to be better as well. I will check and see if any of these pics I been taking work out or not and get back shortly.

Any pictures? I am curious of the sewing machine model.

There are a lot of variables and I would need to see the type of thing that you would want to make to give any worthwhile advice.

I've been thinking about doing a little bit of that to make up some for special jobs like leather covered rope handles with a shaped needle plate and feet etc. I think the feet would need to be bulked up in areas compared to steel but I doubt that would create too big an issue. Zipper guides should be another interesting one to look into.

From my experience I would firstly grind smooth and polish the sharp edges off of the needle plate. Next check that the feet also don't have any sharp edges on the inside edges in particular but outside edges as well. Setting so that the feet lift barely above the job as they travel is best and should look to be lifting the same hight as they alternate. Putting in a smooth dog foot for some things would be an advantage but more for bulky uneven products. The hole in the dog foot will leave little pop out bumps instead in comparison. grind and polish first the needle plate but don't go extra wide. With regards to the pressure on the feet....you should be ab;e to get your thumbs under the feet and be able to lift them up without too much trouble if set for the type of project shown. Sometimes the shaft can be a little bent or rough and an easier lift on the presser feet can be found by turning the adjuster a 1/4 turn looser or tighter. Push up with your thumbs and see if you can feel any pressure difference. Drop a drop of oil down that hole anyway if you haven't already. Wider top feet as in the original Juki model leave less of an impression in veg leather and therefore more top down foot pressure can be applied with less damage. You may be able to get some wider feet out of China if you can't get what you want after smoothing things out. Let us know how you go.

Thanks Nick, I should have thought to mention a post I made awhile ago that shows a method of how I make one of these bands above. Here's the link in case anyone has not seen it - https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/86069-how-to-make-a-watchband-with-edge-coating-tutorial/

Not always but in most cases for me the skin I want to display as against the skin touching my skin are not always that comfortable to wear. Couple a pics should help answer better maybe -

If you can post some pictures that show a few shots of how you have the machine set up might help. In particular the area of where the feed stone is in relation to the bell knife for being parallel and then the presser or roller above it from the bell. All these would need to be parallel with each other firstly. The feed stone would need to be all but touching the bell knife for distance. The spring pressure applied by the adjustment knob at the far back on the left may need to be loosened a little to stop any sudden grabbing as it feeds in. Get plenty of scrap and make sure that the bell is sharp and play with them knobs until they start to make sense. Campbell Randall has a few videos showing adjustments with these machines and I would study through them first.

The prices to me look incredibly cheap and many are good name brand machines. I would find someone that is familiar with a variety of industrial machines and offer to pay them to check them out with you and advise which ones are going to do the jobs you would want to do with them. At those prices I am sure they would be interested to have a good look themselves anyway. There are many every day use machines that are generally easy to get new parts for as well. I would be there looking with ya cept Australia's a little bit toooooo far away.

yr welcome

Your joking......Right?????

It can be done to some degree with one set of holes cut to the edge but it is quicker and easier to weave them together when both sets are done. (once you get the hang of the technique. Do 2 strips with evenly spaced holes and slits and see what I mean. Where possible it is better to not have any arrow head but when you do a curve join it is necessary in order to give the leather somewhere to go with out needing to overlap. I do not recommend putting in curved corners as I did as it is very hard to get around weaving the curve together. I ended up cheating on the base line and stitching both sides closed on the hole outsides in order to stop them coming apart as I tried to get around the corners.It worked but was an unnecessary part of the design unless you want to do it in expensive exotic skin where using small pieces become desirable.

Is that crack along the top of a bag flap? If so a piece of leather integrating a handle support idea may work. A picture showing the full width of the article may help.

I would need to see a picture of this to understand I think. When I have done any patterning on this it has been with regard to the size of hole punch I want to use firstly. Either side of the pattern has to have the holes falling exactly between the holes on the other side. As you can see in my drawing above the hole size is exactly the width between the holes as the hole size itself. the distance in from the edge to the centre of the hole is determined somewhat by the leather thickness but also for setting the thickness that I want the pouch to be. In the pictures above showing the pouch I made for a phone, I decided that a 7mm punch centred at 14mm apart would work and 8.5mm in from the edge to the centre of the hole. This gives roughly a 17mm opening inside the pouch when weaved together. If I wanted a wider opening I could come in from the edge further as long as the pattern was made larger for the article to be placed within later. depending on the leather stiffness it may need to have the tabs that get woven in to be glued down as well to form the box shape more. This is fairly easy patterning with Cad drawing programs but a fair lot of work without I would think. I must add that how I describe the method above is only one that I worked out for myself and other people may use other methods which may be better.

I was thinking that a bolting a box something like this one in the link below, mounted on the front of the 335 perhaps to some angle iron would allow a pulley to line up with the machines top pulley and a hand wheel of sorts connected to the front. One off a patcher would be great but probably a little overkill. http://www.screw-jack.com/tiny-right-angle-gear-box.html

Looks nice. Well done

Very good idea. That should help to see if that motion can do what you want or not safely. If it is in a foot treadle you may want to try it with out the belt connected as well if he is willing.

Normally when I strap/rope something down you could turn the trailer or vehicle upside down and not lose the load. It DOES NOT work with sewing machines as I have learnt the hard way. Even with the head out they want to not stay upright and laying them on mattresses can still bend things around I found. I say get some blocks of wood and tape them to the back of the head until laying down they can not bend anything. If they are laying down they cant fall and break and bend things but still they'll slide around if you don't secure it more than you can imagine. Putting one of those rubber toothy door mats under helps some as well.

Are you trying to load all the stl's together. Most stl's I do are way down in size compared to the 1.4mega you can load in one go here on LW. I have found that if the load fails when you go too high you need to go off and come back and start again. The previous writing you've done will be remembered and put there again and you only need to put in the smaller file size (less than 1.4mg) This bobbin carrier done in my AutoCad is only 39kb. BOBBIN CARRIER.stl