RockyAussie

second column down and 4 across? https://www.sewingpartsonline.com/singer-14u595-sewing-machine-parts.aspx?sort.ss_cat_sort=desc&index=1 some more info here may be of help.https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/73822-parts-for-singer-29-4-patching-machine/

Break them knives down to single or at most doubles. It will work out quicker in the end and allow less wastage. The long strap knives have VERY little chance of working as the leather has no where to move between the straps except inward which means your trying to get around 5mm per strip to condense out of the way. The knives can cut better if you give them a polish with a rag wheel and tripoli polishing compound but that won't work with this set up either. Just for your information, a proper clicker press can normally cut to cut at about 30 seconds a change and gang knifing can save a little but the right gear will save a lot more.

It all depends on how they supply it. I have actually had it come all loose in a bag once. The lid I use is about 20cm if that helps. A bit wider might be better. What I did with the wood piece under the lid is get it so the height is about level with where it feeds into the prongs on the machine. Being on a heavy wood block enables me to position it where ever I want on the back of the sewing table. To me its a bit like getting a good thread run to the tension discs with the thread, You want nothing to hook up or cause any intermittent tensions as it feeds through the prongs and on into the binder shape thing. Warning some tapes feed way nicer than others and you may want to do some machine alterations in order to get the tape to feed more fully in. I removed the left side of the back foot for a start. Original in this pic Now altered below Now able to get the tape further over another 2mm and it works way better especially when going around curves and corners.

If I were to tackle this I would start off with some medium soft eva foam and sand it rounded on the edges. I have done this on a lot of bag handles in the past. This gets stuck down onto a backing leather or stiffener and then the top leather gets lightly glued down and then pushed into the hollows with a bone slicker. That then would be stitched down firm to the hollow being carful not to let the needle ride up the foam bulge. The foam allows the leather to be firmly pushed out and keep the shape nicely in place. Below are a couple of pictures of the handles I am referring to.The eva in them starts off at about 10mm thick. In the case above I would start off with about 5mm + -. Sewing machine wise you would want a roller foot or a single sided set similar to the ones in the last picture. These are just a standard set that I have sanded down with an angle grinder and they allow me to get the needle right in the spot.

Now yous gone and made me all self conscious ....I'm a going to paint that nail now. You know that,that is a real rust version I got not one of these new paint on versions of it you get nowadays. P.S. I am not going to match the paint with the cake tin lid. Doesn't matter what you say ....it won.t happen.

Welcome @Wicky. There are some real nice members down there in Sth.Aus.

Upholstery suppliers normally have it. I go through this one a fair bit- https://www.hamlinsacc.com.au/ I made up a feeder by putting a nail through a cake tin lid into a block of wood with a bearing in between.It just sits behind on the sewing table.

I can not be sure what type you have. As far as I know they only sell ones like in this link below which are a binder type configuration which has no adjustment to go lower or higher that I know about. AS they don't show any thing about them on the Toledo site I would just give them a call. In the top right hand picture in the link you can see the flat tab sticking through which means back and forward movement only. The other picture here shows more closely the tab I am referring to. https://www.cowboysew.com/335-leather-sewing-machine-for-binding.htm

Looks good to me Doc. The big machine makes me think it could have had a heavy stitch line around the edge maybe but I like the heavy lettering work all the same.

No at about 9minutes in you can not see the tab sticking through as I showed in the earlier pictures which I would take that machine to be a oscillating feed dog set up. Also a binder top plate usually has a series of prongs sticking up to feed the tape through with a little tension. Note also that Harry is doing this without a lining and skiving is also quite apparent.

This picture below may give a better perspective of the distance from the edge to the needle on a typical binder set up (9mm). This is a pic from when I was making some smaller cylinder caps for all the machines. This pic of an Adler 69 shows also a binder set up feed dog but I have done a lot off sanding with an angle grinder to get what I wanted at the time. Including the feet as well in this case.

The BUT is The low 8mm thickness it can take . Without a skiver you have to take into account how often you will have multiple thicknesses that end up too tight for the work. Your bag I am sure has more than that in places. Am I right? Now the binder type versions of these machines as in the normal 335 machines have a wider platform needle plate area to assist with holding the binding tape. That means also that the needle is 9mm from the edge not 6 or 7 mm. That means many gusset jobs just will not work very well, if at all. To visually identify the binder type styles look for the protruding tab as shown in the below picture . Machines with elliptical feed dogs will normally look like this one kindly provided by Ron at Techsew. This needle in this case is about 7mm from edge. You can see in the video above some nice looking binding work but Note: there is only one layer of leather in there and if you add to that some lining and another layer of leather and lining plus the binding itself you are quickly running out of space. Here below I am stitching a binder onto this product and this required a lot of skiving on edges to enable this thickness to be possible Note at the bottom of zip more thicknesses to accommodate Now turned in the right side out you can see a LOT more thicknesses had to be fitted in as well This motorcycle tool bag edge could not be sewn on a binder type machine due to needle tooo far from edge. SOOOOO the BUT is unless you are planning on a skiver in the budget pretty quick..... Go bigger. There are cheap ones there as well.

That is a very poorly described machine but to me it looks the same as the other 2 mentioned before. Like the Techsew 2600 which has an elliptical type feed dog as standard I think these others all do as well. The pfaff 335 standard comes with only a back and forward motion with out a drop down unless you get the "P" version which is pretty rare to find. I think that you are going to want to run a thicker thread and a thicker material capability than these machines you have found offer. Have another look at the CB227R /Techsew 2700 /Consew 227R and any other of the similar clones. Better thickness capability both in thread and leather sewing thickness. Cheaper but at the expense of a G bobbin instead of the M bobbin. If you plan on doing a LOT of belts move up to the Juki LS 341 clones with the larger M bobbins. I mentioned these earlier in the post.

In Australia.......when they are big enough to not need it. GRANTS in Australia.................

Nice looking work there.

Not sure about its capacity. I would have thought 10mm but in this manual it says 8mm or less on firm stuff. As for the bobbin size I would check with the seller. https://globalsew.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/WF-35-manual.pdf

As @Constabulary said I think the needle size is to small for that thread. You may even need to loosen the top thread tension with a size 22 up needle.

It looks good to me and has the large "M" boobin. Only bad is the 10mm leather sewing thickness. For most wallet and purses and not too bulky totes and stuff it would be great. As you don't to my knowledge have a skiver as yet keep in mind that being able to go thicker would be handy sometimes. Do a few measurements on your Monte Carlo and just be sure that it will do what you want. A lot of the time you can design in to keep things pretty trim but that can mean a skiver would be desirable. As @mikesc pointed out I think it would be very similar to the Techsew 2600 and the measurements would be as those below in the picture -

That look showed me this as well - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Juki-441-Heavy-Duty-Walking-Foot-Cylinder-Arm-Industrial-Sewing-Machine/173961083393?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D225076%26meid%3Df11d5de2c4554ed2ba14f686f4bc1431%26pid%3D100010%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D263927001186%26itm%3D173961083393%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DDefaultOrganicWithImageNsfwFilter%26brand%3DJuki&_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109

Is your thread take up spring over tight. The thread should just start to slacken as the needle hits the leather. The needle does look like an LR I think and the orientation looks good but just try turning the needle a wee bit so that the slice is closer to to an 11 oclock rather than 10 and see if it improves. With the rubbery back stuff you may need to give the top of the leather a little pre polish or silicone spray if you have some. This helps to keep the needle and thread from gripping as much and the resulting mis stitching. How high does the dog foot raise above the needle plate?

As @dikman said above is true. A cheaper alternative and a pretty good start off machine is the 227R clones. Techsew 2700 or CB 227R are a couple of them. Needle from edge is about 7mm, smaller diameter than the others I recommended but at the expense of a smaller bobbin. The bobbin is still bigger than the old 335 being a G style at around 22x10mm. The stitch length is shorter at a max 5mm but that's not too bad. Threads can go down to #45 (60M) and up to 207. In standard form you only get 10mm of thickness leather to go through but with a 190 system needle you can adjust the needle bar up to get a 1/2" (13mm) leather through.

Your bobbin winding may not be uniform enough. When it winds on it is important that the thread does not get buried in places as that will increase the pressure on and off as it gets pulled out. Other thing is that as the thread feeds of the cone the cone should be positioned to not be angled and have a fair distance to relax before going through any holes. Some threads can be very springy and give tension problems due to the intermittent snagging as it feeds it way to the needle.

I am suspicious that when you are doing the turns you are lifting the feet too high. This separates the tension discs and the top thread goes loose and allows more to come back up on the following stitch. Check if the discs separate too early for you and if you cant work around it with adjustments then you may need to do some cutting and grinding.

I will look forward to your input Matt. What started as a little thought to stop people buying the wrong machine to start with has started to take on a marathon of digging up information which often does not match up between suppliers. @toxo I am waiting on some more information to come in but I would like to lead you away from the Pfaff 335 style to start with. Most always they are set up for binding and that means they come with a needle a full 9mm in from the edge. That is NOT ideal for gusset work. The thickness they can handle is 10mm if that, and that is less than the handles and perhaps the base on you Monte Carlo as shown below for others to understand. The bobbins on these old ones are only around 21x9mm and with 138 (20m) thread you dont get very far before its empty again. Another thing with these Pfaff 335 is that the feed dog does not oscillate unless it is a very rare P version. A way better alternative to the small cylinder range would be the Techsew 2600 which has a needle 7mm in from the edge, an oscillating dog foot and a M style bobbin of nearly twice the capacity of the other. 25x11 or 1"x3/8". If you are doing belts believe me an M style is very desirable. It is I think a Juki LJ-341 clone. https://www.techsew.com/us/techsew-2600-pro-cylinder-leather-industrial-sewing-machine.html That said If you don't have a good working skiver to start with I would steer you more toward the Techsew 2750 or the Cowboy 6900 as they have the needle still close to the edge at 7mm, large M bobbins and will give you a full 13mm (1/2") leather thickness sewing. They will also get you up into the thicker thread 207 (13M) threads which you may want by the look of your Monte Carlo.

Hey @toxo, I am putting together a few comparisons on different cylinder machines and their useful differences at the moment. This will focus mostly on the working cylinder end where all the important to making stuff happens. It will cover things like the thickness of leather they can handle,sizes of bobbins, how far the needle is from the left edge and the size of the cylinder at the end, Thread size capabilities and a few other bits. These things as a maker of a wide variety of products mean more to me than a lot of the information I find available on the dealer web sites generally. I am waiting on a few more dealers pictures to finish this off and hope to have this post up next week sometime. Here below are a couple of the pictures of the type of thing I am talking about -