RockyAussie

A little similar to @fredk method but could be a little quicker. I have done this before and it worked very well under clicker press usage for copies going into a few thousand. Seal the leather piece first then when well dry coat will a spray mould release agent then build your box or blu tack wall. Follow by pouring in some high impact casting epoxy to a height of 1/4" to 3/8" height and then put a piece of steel cut about 3/8" thick on top of the epoxy whilst still wet and then let dry 24 hours or more. Only bad thing I found is that it gets a bit hot and is likely to take off your sealer off of the leather master piece. Talc powder may work better than the mould release spray but I cant say for sure. This is the stuff I used https://www.barnes.com.au/rigid/md60-2017#/399-sizes-750g

I would be following the advice as Bob Kovar advised above. As long as the pipe is a fairly close fit to the shaft it will work quite easily pushing downward.

Thanks @Tugadude I wish I could have done it up in real croc but the customer wanted something different in the end. She didn't want any visible hardware originally and then paid a heap to have some hardware made which I also designed and had made in Japan. This is the end result croc version after another failed one in between. This is the other failed prototype below

These form of closures can be quite successful but if you want to go a step further you can do as I have done on some jobs previously add in a metal strip into the leather loop as shown below. Not the same but is a similar idea. This is just a prototype one I never progressed on with.

This post here shows a little on these feet and what they can do. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/44002-spring-loaded-edge-guide-presser-feet-compensating-guides/?tab=comments#comment-275142 I mostly find that the dog foot and needle plate are very useful as they allow a lot closer stitching to the edge without all the wobbling around.This post I believe shows what I am saying quite well. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/77229-cowboy-cb4500441-narrow-feed-dog-needlethroat-plate/?tab=comments#comment-510835

Thanks Bob. I am now thinking it may be a good improvement if the stitch length indicator plate had a V section in the middle when cast in order to allow the plate to swivel in and out and thereby allow precise adjustments if needed . It probably would need a spring behind the screws as done in the shuttle race body or perhaps a couple of small O rings to stop any loosening off. That would be something an operator could do quite easily without any complicated instructions and perhaps avoid the need to send machines back etc.

That is what I would have thought. It is interesting on these that the bottom side is adjusted out to get the backstitch stitch longer or so it seems. I guess that it is really shortening the forward stitch in comparison to the back stitch in this case. The Cowboy one is wedged and wider at the top.

That is true. My BAD.

If you are using Curra I think you may be able to just increase the scale in the Y direction to 1.5

I have no idea if this video by Uwe is any help but I have found it useful by following right through the steps to get every thing going as it should.

Good Guide Gary

I would recommend taking the thread stand off of the patcher as the vibration of those machines in use would do that. Try putting the thread spool off to one side and see how it goes. I think I remember running the thread down onto the floor once to stop that happening on a patcher.

Can you elaborate? Do you mean adding something stiff in between the back and front cover? Perhaps instead i could achieve the same result by using a thicker veg tan? But perhaps that will make opening and closing a problem..? I have been giving this a bit more thought and as a newbie to this leather work stuff I think adding the binder clip will create a lot of headaches for you. Getting the tablet to clear the binder clips as you slide it in would entail putting a gusset section in place I believe. As well a binder clip normally has to have a solid stiffener behind it to spread the load. Rivets just through the leather will quickly tear it apart and wobble all over the place. Below I will attach a few pictures showing a prototype Filofax cover I made ages ago and you can see the construction of the type of stiffening that is required. First pic is the finished prototype Outer cover removed from inner section Outer cover has thinner stiffener right across and note the extra thicker sections on either side. This helps to keep everything in place as it opens and closes. Note also the foam attached to the outer cover inside. Note in this pic showing the lining section, that the stiffener is one complete piece with cut out sections for improved folding when shutting and opening. Now this design although good for a filofax that needs to be firm to be able to write inside of... it will not be so good for holding something like a tablet inside of it. You would still need the stiffening in the centre but you may need to cut away some in the outer sections to allow a more flexible cover. The pics below show some of how I go about achieving this for phone purses and in this case shown a passport/document holder. Ist and second pics shows the finished product Here you can see the cut out section in the stiffener before the outside is attached. Showing outside stiffener,foam and material to be attached together. Here you see the cut out section before I fold the outer covers. I hope that this is making some sense now. Re the 20 mm strip of leather is a tape measure idea of sorts. When I need to get a distance around something like a tablet, phone or product lining I like to have the correct weight of leather for the job because the thicker the leather used in the job the longer the outer cover needs to be. Saves a lot of maths is all. If you want to call/phone me just send us a pm and I will give you my number there.

I have got to ask what your hole punches look like after doing the lace holes? Works slowed down a lot at present so sort of a holiday. I look forward to you dropping in if you make it up this way again. I don't have any brass swivel snaps but do have a few brass 25mm buckles if that helps.

Good looking stuff there Damien. What hardware you needing, dees and buckle? Is that beady ray you fought you way through or a roo print?

If your around the Brisbane area I would check out this link https://www.theleathershed.com.au/ They run workshops and such as well sometimes I believe. I have sourced leather from them for 20+ years and they are normally pretty good to deal with. Tell Trevor and Tracey Brian sent you and expects a big discount on his next order - Re the ring binder they will take a fair bit more work to do right and the cover will need stiffeners added into it. I would start of getting one from office works and pulling it apart. To get your length of leather measure, cut a strip about 20mm wide of the thickness you have and use it like a ruler going over the shut folder allowing for about 6+mm overhang on both sides for your stitching and trimming up. Getting the rivets out can be tricky and a sharp drill bit would help. You will need to get some rivets to replace so check if they have them while you get your leather. Mac-lace https://maclaceleather.com.au/ will have some if they don't and is another place where you can get leather and other leather craft supplies.

Good job

You think it should have music? or should I be talking through the steps? I like a bit of music but I've seen a lot here don't in the past.

I had to go and find out about them Cricut cutters. I was a little curious what sort of critter or grasshopper could do that. The elastic I used is 2mm shock cord which so far seems to be well excepted. It will last well at least.

This is just a short 2 minute video showing some of the steps and processes used in making our first batch of these. My granddaughters, son and friends have been all been wonderful to send me some pictures of them being worn. The lady doing most of the work in it is MY wonderful wife. I hope there may be a couple of useful bits that may be of help if you are doing any of these. In case your are wondering how many pieces of fabric I am cutting with the Fiskars circular knife, I found that initially when it was extra sharp I could cut 8 layers but that dropped back to 4 layers as is bluntened off after the first 200 masks or so. The cutting table has a 3' 4" square top of HDPE. The lacing tool for the elastic is a reshaped bicycle spoke.

I totally agree and well said. Thank you Ferg.

I reckon your right - https://www.greggrantsaddlery.com.au/stable-and-grooming/leather-care-and-tools/tanning-formula-and-kits/commercial-tanning-knife?gclid=Cj0KCQjwtLT1BRD9ARIsAMH3BtUx1UMzygKMNG6SQ6N7nVDzCbt-n975IS7WiivZATs6jWEte_B_oS0aAs0CEALw_wcB

I believe that both these machines are getting a bit too big for purses. You can not run thin threads through either due to there being no leather point needles less than NM 160 size 23. A CB 341 might be a better choice and will give thread sizes from Thread Sizes: #46 - #207 Needle: #135x16/17: #16-#24. A bell skiver is a must if you are looking for production but maybe a bit expensive if just for a hobby.

I have seen in a catologue at some time where the pfaff 335 was available with an oscillating dog foot but it is very difficult to find. From memory they have to have the letter P after say 335-H3-P sort of. The best I can find at the moment is possibly in this pdf where there is a difference shown on page 21 and 30. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=7&ved=2ahUKEwjtvbiY4oXpAhVCT30KHcNVATUQFjAGegQIBBAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.supsew.com%2Fdownload%2FPfaff%2FPfaff%20335%20H3.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3_CKC405UTEGZCwwcT3jDf I will try and find the better descriptive one and post it up when I do. Also note that the techsew 2600 cylinder comes with an oscillating dog foot as standard. https://www.techsew.com/us/techsew-2600-narrow-cylinder-leather-industrial-sewing-machine.html Note: There is no dog foot tab sticking out the end as there is in the picture below it. https://www.pfaff-industrial.com/db-downloads/technicaldoc/teilelisten/300/tl_335_06-09_de_en_es_zh/@@download/file/TL_335_06-09.pdf Page 55 on this one above.