RockyAussie

Me too, but it will have to be in the 3D printer and laser section. Just waiting on a few more mod parts to come in and we will see how it goes.

I don't do much dyeing of leather edges myself and for every person out there, there is almost as many methods. What type of product you are doing will often change how you go about it. I would have a good look through this post which can be found pinned in the How to section forum along with a few other similar subjects-

Wow they are neat. The layers on the first print is .2mm believe it or not. I did a lot of mods with regards to stiffening the frame like the large printed corners and raising the cable chain up for it to move smoother and so on. With the raised extrusions some times like in an O or a letter with holes in it you need to - the 15 degree or just make a positive of the same height from the base and then remove it. Simple after you do it a few times. re the Bowden tube I hope to get the speed up from my average 60 to at least 80 or a 100. With a print bed that is over twice that of my little one means that it can make a 6 hour print job take 12 if the speed is not there. NOT my ideal work time. I am thinking any bigger would be useless for a lot of the bulk work and more printers would perhaps be better. Example these wedding ring boxes be that the are probably way too strong and a little slowly printed take about 8 hours to print. The new large one can do 20 at a time easily so it better move faster I reckon.

Most of the answers to these questions and a whole lot more you can see within this post I did awhile ago. Although this is about making croc belts the same procedure is applied to most of the other products as well normally. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/86675-how-i-make-crocodile-skin-leather-belts/ If you care to go to my profile section and have a look in the about me section you can find a lot of other projects that will show you a bit more here and there.

I think that you may be mixing up 2 different processes here. You either burnish or you edge paint. The edge paint is the split lines I think you are seeing which is a pretty common thing to experience with a lot of the edge paints types. You did not mention which type of dye you are using and that could also be having a detrimental effect on the edge coat as well. I generally use an iron to smooth out my edge paint and sometimes a little sanding and grey scotch bright pads and follow that up with some wax polishing. I never try and burnish in any way when doing edge painting. If you burnish before the paint then the paint will peel off easily. If you burnish after applying the paint you could easily make the paint go all over the place and it will not shine up well. Note: many of the edge paints available are not thermo mouldable any longer and these require more of a sanding process unfortunately.

Ha Ha well done @jimi. Just a suggestion on your stamp prints......When you extrude give a thought to putting in a taper of say 15 degrees as you go up. That means making the base polylines a little wider firstly but that makes the top edge stronger and less likely to twist under pressure. I did this procedure on the letter set I made up in an earlier post and it really improved it. Also it comes in handy for tapered pulley holes. @Matt S I wondered that when I first got mine and I can honestly say that barley a day goes by that there is not some job going through one of my printers. The new big one is almost going and ready to further ramp up production. Phone pouch forming structures will be the next big thing coming through on them. This is the first print test on the big one and its looking pretty good to me.

That sounds wrong to me. Normally the hook comes across the needle when it is on its way up and somewhere in the needle scarf area. As you have had the hook off I would guess that you need to loosen your hook and turn it to the right enough so that it comes across the needle when the thread loop has formed properly. As for the hook to needle gap if you put in the largest size needle in that the machine can use and set your hook so that it almost touches it, it should be alright for the other sizes.

Quite a few I'm afraid but mostly I use Sekisui foam Softlon 3002. (33kilo per metre) mentioned because that gives you the weight/softness. It is very easy to skive if needed on a skiving machine and takes stitching through it without creating missed stitches on a sewing machine. There are a lot of different densities with foam and thickness and it is a good idea to ask for a sample range to have on hand.

First thing is to check that the long needle groove is on the left. After that as @Matt S rightly said ...change the needle as a little bend is all it takes to do the above. If that don't work then you are looking at timing perhaps. As best you can watch the needle take the thread down and when it starts coming back up the hook should be coming around to grab the loop in the thread somewhere in the scarf of the needle area. If you have no loop forming then find out why. That would mean your thread is being held up by something that it should not be. If the hook does not come around as the needle scarf area is there then you have got a timing issue. If so check first that the needle bar has not been knocked high. If it is correct then you need to loosen the hook and align it so that it will come around just when the thread loop is looking nice and open. Rough I know but it will get you out of trouble.

Mostly I only ever use left over split leather from belt backs as a filler in my combination dress belts. In some applications it could be used elsewhere but generally the weight increase compared to the foam is not as desirable. The foam allows more flex as well.

Some bags I use just foam to give structure and some have a combination of a stiffener and foam on top. Most of my totes/backpacks and such use just a foam.

another- dcs-s3.pdf

Your most welcome and I hope that it all goes well. I will attach a couple of pdf's of some manuals that could help a little in some places. I see that this file may be too large by itself so I will give it a try and see how that 1 goes first. Fortuna 50 p ag.pdf

Yes it is painted and the rep should also be told to find out what a semi aniline leather really looks like. This is a typical upholstery grade leather and IS fully embossed. If taken to court they will lose for sure with such claims. That said these sofa's and such sometimes come with cleaning instructions and if so I doubt very much they will include diluted isopropyl alcohol. There are recolouring companies around that specialise in fixing this sort of thing and it may worth getting a quote to get that done.

How much of the vacuum stuff is missing? Is it only the bucket?

The bell speed on mine is able to be changed at the pulleys to run faster or slower but as a guide line a normal sewing machine motor will run it and fast is best normally. The manual above that @DanishMan should give you some more clues on that. As far as the feed speed goes.... although it can be set at a constant speed it is usually used like a sewing machine meaning the more foot pressure the faster it goes. When you are doing long strips you want the feed fast and when you are doing little curly stuff you want from 0 to fairly slow. I have seen a few people use 2 servo motors to do it but the bell could be run on a normal set speed motor. Note: the worst thing on these old skivers is if you have too much play up and down on the shaft that drives the bell. If it moves that way you may be wasting your time.

@sainte that sure looks like a lot of work . Not that it matters at this stage but I will recommend keeping in mind that it will be a good idea to split the bell drive separately from the feed stone drive. The bell runs at a fast speed always while the feed can go slow or fast then. Many years ago I had one like yours but they did not have these nice little servo motors around back then so I got rid of it.

Another fix I came up with awhile back you can see in this post -

Nice picture there. I had a look for a manual but as you have no doubt found not so easy. I hope it comes together well and I look forward and thank you for sharing your progress.

Hi @sainte I am afraid that my old skiving machine appears to be a lot younger than this one of yours. I have done a search and found a little on this type of Fortuna and found this blog that you may find interesting. The last picture shows some of the belt track from underneath. http://bdupres.blogspot.com/2014/06/skiving-skiver.html I hope that this is of some help and you go on to get it all running. Please share a few pics as you go. Brian

Post some pics and we will try and help. You can see mine in use some on you tube links.

I can feel the pain from here ......and I live a half a world away. No just kiddin THINK POSITIVE MAN.

Thanks that would be great. I will be doing a bag design in the next couple of days which will have the handle hole design reinforced with pla and set in between the leather layers and then stitched through. Will take a few pics and post when I get it done. Brian

Best I have found is using a set of sanded down knipex nail pullers like in this link. I sand/grind the face down until the V is near flat at the front and that then allows the side edge to push in under the rivet and nip it off. I used these for many years doing shoe repairs where nails and rivets need to be removed every day. A little grinding underneath the cutting edge on one side can help a little to get in under as well. https://www.tradetools.com/product-range/hand-tools/pliers/knipex-twin-end-nipper-pack-200mm-and-280mm-68-series?gclid=Cj0KCQjwrIf3BRD1ARIsAMuugNuYzLzsHmVdER0IkTzp4O6Vdv4NdWd0Be5-QMlswvgd5boDJQETlS0aAk9QEALw_wcB

Easy Fix answer.......none my dear caus I know you'd make a dust cover for it. WHY do women so ask you a question when they know the answer already? Example......Is that where that belongs? Sorry I agree with Wizcrafts above. They have been in use for a very long time and will still have a good place on machines for a long time yet.