RockyAussie

You're welcome.....dont forget to think about the registration points as well.

For a leather point I think you need a 135x16 LR or TRI like in this https://www.schmetzneedles.com/item/135X16-DIA-Needle-System-100064

If it is the same stuff I used I would say it may be your mixture ratio. I did one plate for a cowboy boot cigarette lighter holder and I did thousands of those with out any problems. Dampen the leather and let it sit until firm mellow and bang under my clicker press ...presto

I have one with the driven roller foot but I have had plenty of other machines with roller feet that are not driven as well and at the end of the day I believe that it does not make much difference. Because the driven roller foot cant spin backwards sometimes seems to hamper going around tight curves but not much of a problem. I used to get pissed off about missed stitches on it at times but later found out that the minimum needle size is 18 and I until then had been using mostly 16. Now missed stitching is rare. I use this machine for stitching my dress belts mostly but it gets used for stitching in zips into our circular coin purses which you can see in this video I made ages ago.

OK well I am over in OZ and that makes it hard but I have made a few of these stamps for myself in the past using a high impact casting epoxy.https://www.itwpf.com.au/epirez/epoxy-casting-compound-8837/ You will need to get some mould release spray as well. After sealing the leather well you build a dam around the part you want cast with timber strips or leather tacked down then give it plenty of coats of the mould release. After that you get a piece of steel big enough to cover the size at least 1/4" thick and say up 3/8" if its 6" square and thicker if bigger still. You pour in the mix making sure to not get any bubbles then place the metal piece on top and let it set. The heat will possibly remove the seal coat some and you will need to carefully peel the leather out of the back but it should do the job you want in the end.

Sorry I am not familiar with the Organ brand needles and numbers. The 180/24 indicates how thick the needle is but the numbers above refer to the system type. I think the ones above made not be leather points either. If the needle comes to only a sharp point then it would be for fabric use. A leather point needle in the Schmetz that I use are LR needles which looks like this when it cuts into the leather \. If the Organ needles are the same length and the holes and scarf are all looking the same as the other Schmetz needles you have then I would say to give them a try. IF they are shorter or worse longer do not even try them.

Very true and not all leathers will bend the same either due sometimes from what part of the hide it is cut from and a whole lot of other things. One rule I almost always do is to cut myself a strip about 3/4" to an inch wide from the same leather and place it over the curves and trim to size. That gives me a ruler measurement to go from then which I normally just put into my cad program to finish the rest of the design.

It would be better with a NM 180 or 200 leather point needle.

How large are they and what press or equipment do you have for doing the job? A couple of pictures and the type of details you want would help as well. If it is simple then converting a picture into a black and white line drawing and then getting a magnesium plate made may be the way to go but if you need higher detail the casting with a high impact casting epoxy may be required. If tat is the case then it is best if the original carving is done extra deeply to get a better impression when you use the stamp. The bigger the stamp means that you need to be able to have a press that can handle the extra pressure involved.

As the knot is pulled in on some places I would suspect that you have a badly wound bobbin with tight spots or a bobbin that is catching inside the case somewhere. Other than that you may resting your foot down occasionally on the foot lifter that also loosens the top thread tension.

What @Stetson912 said is correct but I will add that you need to come out from the corner edge, the thickness of the product (normally between 1 or 2mm). I do this by resting a straight skiving knife against the corner holding it on a 45 degree angle or a little more. The thicker the piece then the distance out is wider and if thinner its less. I would get some cardboard squares and glue onto some leather bits and practice the technique until it works every time on a few thicknesses. With practice you can get a rounded corner using the same technique as shown in this pic below.

What @Trox said is correct. To add to that when I cut fabric I very often tripoli polish around the outer edge of the knife before starting a run. Also using a fabric that does not fray along the edge helps as well. I get in a special fabric from Tabru in Italy that does this job very well. Cutting through multiple pieces can help as well. If your board is getting too rough try putting some stiff paper under the fabric first.

Something I do just may help. I have taken out the roller foot in this guide and replaced it with a bit of flat bar. With this I can angle the back part of the guide in (to the left) a little more than the front and this to some degree allows the leather to push into the guide and it is possible to almost go hands free as it keeps it pushed into the guide as you stitch along. Also this helps to not have the leather compress into the guide and let the needle then go further in then you want. This picture shows one of the guides-

To me taint what it looks like its what you can do with it that counts. Well done.

For myself not being a hobbyist time is an important part in how I go about doing things. Like most I used to sharpen with stones etc but now days I find I can sharpen very well on the belt sander what is required in a couple of minutes followed up with some Tripoli polish on a rag wheel. As I keep the blade always facing away from the belt rotation I have never had any catching issues as described by dikman thankfully. There are a couple of pictures below to show what I use and what I am saying is that it would be hard to get much of a tapered edge if the handle gets in your way from you doing so. I will also put in a video link that shows why I like to have a broad taper on my knives.

I don't believe you can sharpen those as any thing you take off will leave a gap and there is no adjustment on them, least not on any of the ones I ever had. There are blades that have notches and you can get blades that are plain so best be sure you get the plain ones unless you need to cut sole leather on shoes.

Looks like it should be a good one. I do think the timber and bottom rivet may be a bit too low for belt sharpening though.

Interesting idea. Some pictures that show how it hangs would help I think. I feel sorry for your scissor cutting hands.

Glad to hear you have found a solution that works for the problem. Thanks also for letting us know.

Just given credit where it is due, and thanks for sharing your talent here with us.

You don't really want me to post "what didn't" do you? That is one hell of a lot of space you know. Good point about thanking the sponsors though and I will add a big thank you to you and Tom and Wiz and all the rest who make up this forum for us to enjoy.

Most excellent

Not my kinda stuff but I have to say that is some very nice lookin work there @WyattEarp

Starting to look like a bunch of mad inventors here what? Here one post I did on a drill press for embossing as well -

Great thinking there @Lil Doodler and thank you for sharing it as well. Getting a crew punch to come down even let alone in the right direction is challenging and having a fence to line up to as well ........