RockyAussie

Ohhhhhh.....I like that a lot

Me as well.

HI @dikman, Sorry for late answer mate ...The old computer s..t itself again as it does at times and as usual it was just needing the ram sticks cleaned up. Spent many hours getting a new one and files over blah blah Still a work in progress. $120au delivered and available in Australia at the moment to you . Just give Jess a call if you want to go ahead. I will do a separate post on these showing some more detail than the video shows. I would do it here but there is a fair bit and I don't want to overload with all the pictures and stuff. I understand what you mean and I will do a separate post asap that will give a better and more full explanation of the advantages and once done I will put a link back here. HI @dikman, Sorry for late answer mate ...The old computer s..t itself again as it does at times and as usual it was just needing the ram sticks cleaned up. Spent many hours getting a new one and files over blah blah Still a work in progress. $120au delivered and available in Australia at the moment to you . Just give Jess a call if you want to go ahead. I will do a separate post on these showing some more detail than the video shows. I would do it here but there is a fair bit and I don't want to overload with all the pictures and stuff. I understand what you mean and I will do a separate post asap that will give a better and more full explanation of the advantages and once done I will put a link back here. Too true. My next post will try and convey better just that.

I am sure like myself the previous owner made them to suit those applications. Most jobs are small like credit card pockets and it is easy to avoid the hole when doing those. I have had an OMAC one that has heated plates top and bottom with the option of a raised section for putting in a crease line at the same time as the folding. I used it a lot but when it developed problems with the main board they advised me that they dont have those parts available for machines over 5 years old. Cost about $12,000 au here and they still sell the same machine that all works the same except perhaps the main board section. I prefer now to stick with what I can do with the manual versions.

I will try and get back to this tonight as it does give a whole lot of advantages to a machine that was only good on heavy gage work mostly.

Similar looking but The CB 341 does not have the same capacities as the CB6900 -When I get a bit of work done here I will come back with some more info but here is a link to study for now - https://www.cowboysew.com/heavy-duty-cylinder-bed-sewing-machine.htm

Awhile ago I would have fully agreed with @kgg but something we came up with recently for these machines really does change this a LOT. Here is a video I did on it While you are there check out the videos I have done on the CB6900 which is a really great machine to start off with in my opinion.

Forgot to mention ...the holes cut in the table top would have been cut out for zip pulls to sit down into and the other one probably for the centre bridge section of a wallet to sit down into so the top section can be done straight across. A teflon cover on the table will make it way quicker and nice to operate on.

WOW ....I"m crying ...the freight to me would be ridiculous but I have paid 10 times more than that for smaller ones. For those of you that want to do serious production on wallets and stuff you better be quick. Here is a Very inexperienced operator showing one of these off and I can tell you we do pocket tops on something like this machine at the rate of about 10 secs per. Hint ...take of that silly bar in front if you are doing anything less than 2 hand widths wide caus its way quicker to hold it by hand. Anyway here is the link

AHHH.... now I get it. I have not seen any letter sets that do that before now. I have done something a little similar before which is why I made my own font up in order to get the laser cutting and printed letters to all be in a CAD form. This enabled me to print the letters to exactly line up with the cut out masking tape for painting. If you have a band knife splitter you could probably do the stamping and split it down to the thickness to remove deeper sections. Might give it a try. This is a link that shows where I posted the other similar project -

Are you meaning that you want letters that have just the outline so that the middle of the letter becomes raised? I was thinking that you meant the space between one letter and the next letter. Here is a pic of one I did recent and you can do it either way you want

Looks interesting but how do they cut out spacers between the letters?

Back in my old shoe repairing/making days I had a couple of these RED Vilh Pedersen outsole stitches that were made in Denmark I believe. Does this look anything like it? Here are a few more pics in this link - https://auctionet.com/en/515262-skomakarmaskin-modell-309-vilh-pedersen-danmark/images

The turns in from loose would be best found by counting how many full revolutions there are from fully loose to fully tight then turning the knob to be half way. This gives you plenty of room to tighten or slacken the top thread tension without needing the spring to be over tight or over loose between various thread changes or job thickness and firmness changes.

Could not find anything in my search to do with letter sets by nocona. Have you got any pictures showing what you mean? I just laser cut whatever letters I want and Word or Corel draw gives me a wide range of fonts. Even designed a font of my own for doing that.

Yeah I know that feeling well. Don't start with crocodylus porosus.

Not sure if your folding tables are the same or not as this one of mine I modified to suit my needs from being a hand operated folder to a foot operated folder. At about 2.5 minutes into this video you can see what I am talking about showing the folding of wallet edges and stuff. Between the other line up devise and the folder I can tell you that they would probably do my hours of operation than any other machines I own.

Curious to see other answers on this myself. From me....put your top tension knob adjuster mid ways through its length of travel. Probably 5 turns in from fully loose. AS long as you have the right needle and thread combination then load your bobbin in and stitch a piece of leather 1 to 2mm thick (3 to 5 oz) a couple of inches. If the knots are showing on top tighten the bobbin spring about a 1/4 turn at a time until the knots are centred. If the knots are at the bottom then loosen the bobbin spring about a 1/4 turn at a time until the knots are centred. This method should mean that thereafter you only need to tighten or loosen the top tension for any adjustments unless you are going right from the thinnest to the thickest threads in your changeover. Hope that helps.

I would have liked to see the method used on the hats but anyways, as the OP Dave is from Tennessee I would think that these guys here should be able to help better than anyone else I can think of - https://www.youtube.com/user/TennesseeAttachment/videos I was just curious as I make a range of different folders and such myself.

I agree the overhang part but you would still only have a turning circle of a large shoe on the under table part. That may be an impediment on larger tote bags and such.

It is for slicking around the soles of shoes between the welt and upper. Makes it easier to apply pressure and keep it happening in the right place.

Thanks @kgg. I noticed a comment on that video this morning saying that they had the same machine but they got it with the smaller table. The new table I changed to has a footprint around 4" shorter and quite a bit easier to manoeuvre around in tight spaces. After discussions with the Cowboy agents here the newer tables in future will have a little less overhang under the cylinder arm still.

A picture of how bad it is could help. If it is done by a very slack tannery then it can be quite difficult without the right machinery. Just pulling at it can make parts of it super thin and do quite a bit of damage. Generally I use techniques that are suitable for the product I wish to make it into. Generally on smaller products I like to use a band knife splitter that has a top roller. The reason for the top roller is that the best direction to feed the quill area in is with the lower larger side of the quill mussel going in first as that helps to not get under cut holes under the bumps. On larger bags I tend to use a belt sander and try not to go too heavy or deep. Trimming lightly with some scissors is sometimes needed to avoid the bulk coming together and catching the hide up into the sander. Sanding back is not very easy as sometimes the hide will be soft fibre near to alright through the skin. Practice on some of the flank parts where the quills are lighter first. The neck area IS too thin to sand normally. Cutting out your pieces a good bit oversize before sanding or splitting makes it easier and safer.

Here is a link to the video I have just loaded that shows the importance of getting not just the right sewing machine but the right sewing table for it as well. Not the CB341 machine but pretty close to the size. There are a few other video's on this machine there on my channel as well. I will post this again later in its own topic section a bit later.

Good choice for the jobs you want to do but make sure you have a full open end table and not just the U shape cut out version. Doing tote bags often require the open end to get a full swing around stitch. I will probably get a video up showing this issue sometime next week I think. Video's done just gotta edit the darn thing.