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RockyAussie

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Everything posted by RockyAussie

  1. I think the machine I did this on along time ago has been packed away but I can show you where on some other machines if that is of any help. As your model pulls downward to go into reverse it would need the spacer at the top. On the machines in these pictures the forward stitch has the rod at the bottom and reverse is at the top. Note that on this 441 style machine that the plate that the stitching adjustment rod goes through is wider at the top to reduce the stitch length in reverse. It is common on these machines for people to further increase this measurement with a wedge to get a better reverse stitch length. On this old 331 Pfaff I have taken the plate on the front off all together to obtain a longer stitch length. This involved a LOT of checking first to be sure that the dog foot length etc would not go longer than the hole would allow. This allowed quite a lot wider stitch length than standard and I have had no issues in over 20 years with it. In this 335 style machine where I am pointing I could put in a spacer under this plate to reduce the forward length stitch in comparison to the reverse stitch length. By spacer I mean something on the one end to angle the plate. Some people use a washer. Myself I would print up a plate once I determined exactly how much angle it needed. A spring under the screw would be great if there were room as that would allow for variations if need be. Note that at the top in this case also has a wider section to correct the stitch length in reverse. Now this Adler below has one interesting feature in that it has an adjustable stopper to set which stops the forward stitching from being able to go longer than it is set to. Now if the forward stitch is limited by this stopper and the rod adjustment nut is turned out further then the reverse stitch length is free to still have a longer stitch in reverse depending on how far the nut is opened out. Note: on this machine the reverse plate gets smaller at the top instead of wider. (Just something to think about) I hope that this is of some help.
  2. Firstly I must thank @Uwe for his fantastic help to us all and his excellent video work. I can't say my answer here is all that good but here goes.....I ran into a similar problem on a different machine and how I fixed it was by putting a spacer under the plate that the stitch length adjustment rod goes through. By putting a spacer at the top you would stop the adjustment rod going up so high thus making the back stitch length shorter and conversely by putting a spacer at the bottom you would limit the forward stitch length whilst not affecting the reverse stitch length. You could possibly wind the knob back a couple of notches every time you went into reverse but the spacer idea would cut out the need to do this once you get the spacing right. Bad side to this solution is that you may lose a little off of the maximum stitch length going forward perhaps.
  3. Could be done if you are very mechanically minded but unless you have plenty of time to play with, you would be better off getting what you need from the start.Keep in mind that a bell skiver well set up can be used as a splitter quite well as well and that can save you a lot of floor space in the end. I had an early Fortuna many years back that operated the same as the machines you are looking at and was very happy to be rid of it. They can be modded up to have a separate motor for the bell and a separate suction which will take up more space but I would think it better to spend my time making money and not wasting it. Campbell Randall also stock the roller feet you may want for better skiving. If you have not checked my video's on skiving I would have a look as it will show one in operation and better than most others can achieve I must add.
  4. They look to me to be pretty much all the same but I would not be buying any of them myself in a hurry as none here come with an aspirator (suction device) Also I have a great preference to having the blade spinning at all times as I find I get neater results. When the feed is a slow start on these so is the blade spin and that in my past experience is not a good thing. I would recommend having a look at this Techsew model https://www.techsew.com/en/catalog/product/view/id/1164/s/techsew-sk-4-leather-skiving-machine-with-vacuum-suction-device/ or even better perhaps something like this FAV AV2 at Campbell Randall but with the vacuum working. You can see at about 20 minutes why the vacuum is worth having.
  5. A few pictures showing the texture might be good to see if you would care to post some.
  6. I think a lot of the steps that kgg has done may help but I would also check to see what results you get when you don't have the thread going under that spring thing down below the thread take up lever. I had a lot of problems once sorting out a similar problem on a 441 variant that for some reason had a similar spring guide set up and once I got rid of the spring holder piece it behaved it self way better. Older machines never had these at all and I have to ask if anyone could explain how this contraption could be of any benefit in this location? Threads often take on a memory from the coil they are on and often there is a fair bit of wriggling around as they come through all of these thread paths so to me putting in a flat holding wiper is just asking for problems. Why do they make the tension disks so smooth and curved and decide that after all that to put in a flat holding piece???? If you know why please let me know.
  7. Couple of things I would try here is 1st don't put the thread under that last little spring guide thingy as I have found that any little thing like that the can interrupt the flow after the spring tension disks can cause an issue and secondly I would make sure the first knob with the +/- on it is set very loose. Lastly ...make sure that you have the foot pressure down enough to not let the job raise up with the needle coming out as that will also give a very uneven erratic stitch knot location.
  8. A picture showing what you are trying to stitch set up in the machine will help. One picture with the front foot up fully and one with it fully down taken from the cylinder end view. It could be that the leather is too soft and spongy and needs a larger needle. Could be the back foot is badly height adjusted or could be a different foot may work better such as the one that presses down in front of the needle.
  9. I think that I agree with Wizcrafts about changing the thread but will add that I think that the needle hole looks a little wrong as well. If it is an LR shape then turn it slightly more around and see if it behaves any better. With the bobbin thread ....try pulling it up when it is in the machine and feel if there is any variations in pressure. If there is it could be bad bobbin winding (most common) or the bobbin is rubbing in the case. Try a different bobbin.
  10. Here is a link to a video showing the knife pouch I did last week and a little bit on some of the steps at the end.
  11. I am wondering if you had the foil the wrong way up in order to do that? The gold or silver side should be the side that the plate makes contact with and the reverse side is more the adhesion side which should be against the leather.
  12. When the 2 sides come together they must be facing the same direction to do up. Look closely and note that each tooth has a hollowed out side and is domed on the other side of the tooth and that for it to mesh the dome side needs to fit into the hollow on the other side of the zip. I think you will find that you have one side in around the wrong way in this case.
  13. That looks to be a good inexpensive upgrade. Just watch that you do not allow the machine to go beyond the stitch length or you may cause a lot of damage to the machine. I think they normally have a plate with a smaller opening on the front to stop you opening up the stitch length too far in either direction. Easy to print one up if you have a 3d printer. I look forward to how it goes for you.
  14. Are you able to go to East coast Leathers? Here is a link to the type of skin I use for this - https://www.theleathershed.com.au/products/burgundy-chopper I used Whisky chopper in the knife pouch above I believe. They should be able to help with the glue as well I think. Another supplier that may be closer to you is Packer leather at Narangba. Trying to fit in 20 odd knives into a roll pouch will be quite a challenge and especially if done with the blades facing out. Even harder not having the physical knives to to use. I would ask for a photo of all of the knives laid out together to start with and then an outline drawing of them with measurements. Without seeing a picture of the knives yet I suspect that I would do the design so that it folded rather than rolled something like a layer of 5 then fold over for another layer of 5 and again and again. Each layer would have the blades going the opposite way in order to reduce the bulk. I can do you a sketch if that does not make sense. 49342555 if you want to talk. Brian
  15. Yep and probably my daughter in law as well at times. That's alright though caus she knows more than me a lot of the time.
  16. Hi @mike02130 , yep ...I am Brian but my wife and I called the business "Wild Harry" after a wild dog we owned at the time called "Harry". My wife Mary does the IG stuff mostly and and knows you from there. She says Hi and if you see a little ginger dog in our stuff sometimes ......that'll be Wild Harry
  17. Exactly Hey jimi ..just a little tip mate ...warm your corners with a heat gun and lightly give them a little push and roll with a slicker. You will get a nice closed up rounding that way.
  18. Just saw this post and as I am making up a knife pouch roll this week I thought I may be able to do a few pics as I go of the process for you if it helps. To get a good roll and not make it excessively long you may want to consider alternating the ends that your handles go as shown in another roll that I made a while back. Don't know where in Oz you are but if it helps I would be happy to machine stitch it up for you when its ready. I am close to Rockhampton. Regards Brian
  19. @MsEdna My practice on gussets is to cut and attach the fabric so that it finishes about 2mm short of the edges on the sides and 1mm at the bottom. done carefully you would not need to have it fully glued and therefore not need to worry about any glue showing through. That said I buy a fabric which has been sealed on the back side that does not allow the glue to penetrate through. This Fabric is called a tessuto jacquard 100% polyester which we buy in from Italy from Tabru. Around 100 years ago if I remember correctly I used to spray a thinned down coating of pva wood glue onto some fabric to achieve a similar result. Waaay easier to just buy it and no more worries about fraying when you cut it out either. That sounds good to me...... and the elegance of it is more I think in how well you do it. (Those inner curves may be easer to do with a leather piece attached) This pic below shows the Tabru fabric cut out on our clicker press without fraying, note that the fabric in the credit card pocket does not need to go to the sides and this helps to keep the bulk down along the edge and makes for better stitching results when sewn on a sewing machine. Hope this helps some Brian
  20. That is correct. That is also correct. If you look into many tanneries they will have a large embossing type machine with large alloy plates that can give them a wide range of patterns to put over hides. Also you can warm a piece to be stamped ahead and then emboss down into it. This can after cooled down then be further warmed on the back which will shrink the leather a little whilst making the design pop out a little further.
  21. Thanks Chris That is one hell of a lot to pick through.
  22. Man doesn't he make that look easy. I thought I was pretty quick but that is amazing. I love that you can do the flat pattern so easy and makes me think I may just have to have a look into that Fusion 360. I am sort of stuck a bit in more old Auto cad stuff and find it difficult to put in the measurements after the way they do here but it just might be worth the trouble yet. Thanks for the share @chrisash
  23. @Danne I think you have done very well sorting out how to set up up hour own stitch line file in Auto cad. First time I did it it took me over an hour I think and because after you have done it it is set in and you no longer have to do it, it is worth doing. For myself Cad design is a no brainer because I need to design something nearly every other day and having a file like watch bands all in one place means a couple of minutes of copying and altering and bingo it's done and there to alter again if needed. Because I often have to do many repeats of the product and sometimes some variations I like that I can easily go back to my cad drawing and add another 2mm to a tight edge or whatever changes I want in a matter of seconds before going into full production. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us all as you proceed on your L.W. journey.
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