RockyAussie

You just beat me on that almost word for word.

I am sorry @TomE that I have not received your earlier Email. I have had some trouble in the past getting the notifications going through our website and I thought it was fixed up. Thanks for letting me know, I will look into it again. I just wonder how many I don't get through that system. I have replied to you on the pm messaging here.

At the moment I know we have sold a couple to the Cobra class 4 owners and have not heard back that they have had any fitting issues. If anyone can confirm please share your findings. Great feedback @WolfteverGunleather Thanks for sharing Only in the drawing up design stages yet and just curious as to the likely interest. I would use it but I always love pushing the limits. They would cost a fair bit to produce so numbers are pretty relevant. If the current sets keep selling well I will give them a trial.

Warning now @Wizcrafts this set can lead to spoil you. More productivity and production gives more time for ........ Question, what would you think of a sort of a cross of the stirrup plate and the holster plate with an extended height dog foot??? I am thinking for tight gussets and stuff like that. Could be an answer for that tight lot of stitching you get coming up to a tight bend (stirrup) and the big jump gap when you get over the bend.

Good news and thanks for the feedback. Would you be so kind to post some pictures when you finish? You wont be crying for long once you have it in use mate. Is this with the new needles and needle plate set? I found on mine that I get far less problems with miss stitching than with the original sets. other than timing it could be you may need a shim which Jess will have in stock. I have not needed any on mine but all the same some suede's can sink down in the hole with the needle enough to stop a decent loop forming for the hook to catch well. How far away is your needle from the needle defector you reckon when they are along side? I get away with a gap of 1/2mm (normal printing paper folded over into 4 layers) on a 160 - 23 LR point needle on just about anything you like. That gap means I get all the way out to a 230 - 26 needle without any touching. That gets me right for a TK 350 size 8 metric thread if I wanted to go that thick. Another think I just thunk......check that your thread return spring is not over travelling.

WOW that is Booteful and heelarious to boot

If you wanted to do a large piece that is not easily bent ...with the guide removed you can go back untill you reach the overhead arm at the back which is about 8' or 200mm so if you turn it around you would be able to double that width to 16". The roller or presser guide though means that you are limited to doing each pass at around 30mm or 1.2" at a time. Most stuff like belts and that take one pass either side which can be bevelled or flat if you want. I do have one video where I am doing up 100+ croc belts which I think I have to get around to loading up sometime soon. Here are a few pictures that show one of the typical uses this machine is used for- Here this croc top pieces are ready to skive Here are the leather fillers that are skived This is showing the croc being skived Edges at .5mm What some look like when nearly finished

Like you I think I bought a lot of howlers when I first started off. I bought a roller type for a way lotta money and found that I then needed to become a master at sharpening to get anywhere near to predictable results. That also takes a fair time to do. I have had the boot repair style cutter/skiver and for shoe repairing hard sole leather but not any use for general leather goods making. I would suggest you keep an eye out for a good priced bell skiver. I have band knife splitters but early on I did a lot of my splitting requirements with a bell knife skiver and they have the advantage of being able to be sharpened by the machine within a few seconds normally. I would recommend either a Fortuna or a Fav AV2 machine as my first choices and you can see in this video I did awhile back a little of what I am talking about. There are a few others as well if you check while your there. They are not hard to resell if you decide to later on.

This what @kgg says I believe to be true. I have had many years of experience using patching machines of one sort or another and they are not a machine I would recommend to start off with if you are doing leather work. Shoe repairs yes. I should point out that at 3 minutes 58 seconds into the video above you can see the stitching average that a patcher is normally capable of. (Not good enough for my work) Your skills with a patcher are very high indeed, so much so that I had to check your profile and see the pictures in your albums. I am curious to know what method you used to make the holes and grooves ahead of the patcher needle. Is this done by a laser or have the leather been stitched ahead first with a heavy weight machine or what? Here a a few of the pictures I am curious about.

Time and money and sometimes skill..

Because of the height of this bag I would not want the Techsew 860 as it has a low height post. For the ease of stitching the base in and getting down low on those long sides I would be looking more at the Techsew 85017 which has a 17" height post compared to the 7" height of the other. Doing this form of side seam and base is quicker than other methods if you have the right machine . This machine can do a very wide range of applications but just a word of caution all the same for the OP ....if I were just starting off with out any other machines I would be looking more at a cylinder machine. You can easily make tote bags with them as well but not with this construction method. If the leather you use is soft and floppy you may get close to doing it but you would want to be pretty desperate to try.

Hep.... luckily I'm not a commercial pilot flight instructor I reckon Or firearms instructor either I spose. Well I missed by ....that much or would you believe ....................that much?

This one shows the size of needle for the 46x1 80 https://www.strima.com/46x1-80-schmetz-sewing-machine-needle-g06-1box-100-pcs/item-432714

I am not understanding this variation. Will a needle with a shank diameter of 1.75 like the needle in the chart above shown as 175x1 fit up into the needle bar or not? Sanding down from 37.1mm to 35.7 mm would not be very hard to do. I did ask if you could post a picture of both sides of one of these needles and with a ruler along side would be better if the picture can clear enough to see well. This is what comes up when I google 46x1 needles https://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=NDL-46x1

I can not be certain of that I am sorry. If you want to measure the diameter of the needle and the length from the end to the eye and maybe do a close up picture of both sides of the needle you may find another alternative. Sometimes if the diameter is the right size you can shorten them a bit to suit. This chart should give you some ideas

This is a copy of the comment in the video .Groz-Beckert.........Nm 100/16, 251 EL, 251 LG, 29 BNl, 29 CB, LW x 5 T. This link may be of help - https://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=NDL-251

I believe what you have there is a what we call a chain stitch machine and the bottom thread looks like this normally. As there is no bobbin you can not get a lock stitch to form as many other machines do. I think you have it as good as you can get it for now.

Had another thought........If you loosen your presser foot off enough to lift the feet up with your thumbs (that is often about the right setting on light stuff for me) when you lift them up high does your top back tension discs open up. In other words when you are stitching something thicker than 3/8" does that top back tension discs open up some??

Sounds like some progress. The clunky noise just may be that spring being bent over into the presser bar shaft as it lifts. I would do that squaring up first. If it is not missing going forward but is in reverse ....I have to ask what needle size thread size and point tip you are running??? It may be just that the the needle is not angled right. A picture would help. It may be that if your using a light gauge needle it is too far away from the hook. That can be adjusted with shims normally but I you may not want to do that in a hurry if you are planning on using a thicker needle and thread combination. I don't think that any timing adjustments will come into it if it stitches forward but not in reverse. Make sure you are using a new needle.

Pictures are very blurry and hard to make out. I can not see a thread return spring nor a thread take up lever. From the angle of the last photo above could you take a picture with the needle down then one with the needle 1/2 way up? Do not reduce the photo size quite so much.

Having had a look at Alexander Dyer's video and the ease with which a shim was added I can see no particular reason why a little can not be removed from the shuttle race holder at the rear. It is nice and flat. I was a little concerned about the needle plate movement around the 5 minute 40 sec mark but the dog foot and needle plate have no connection to the shuttle race so I assume the dog foot is rubbing the needle plate slightly but perhaps only because of loose screws.

Thanks for the info Wiz.

Thanks for the feedback @garypl. Hopefully some of the other people who now have them will share with us how they found theirs in use. I do gotta ask ...Did you actually get to stitch that holster that close to the edge at that thickness?

Is there some safe way to do this Wiz??

That link look promising but the options show from 2mm up. Strange that the picture they show shows a 1mm black???