RockyAussie

I am not understanding this variation. Will a needle with a shank diameter of 1.75 like the needle in the chart above shown as 175x1 fit up into the needle bar or not? Sanding down from 37.1mm to 35.7 mm would not be very hard to do. I did ask if you could post a picture of both sides of one of these needles and with a ruler along side would be better if the picture can clear enough to see well. This is what comes up when I google 46x1 needles https://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=NDL-46x1

I can not be certain of that I am sorry. If you want to measure the diameter of the needle and the length from the end to the eye and maybe do a close up picture of both sides of the needle you may find another alternative. Sometimes if the diameter is the right size you can shorten them a bit to suit. This chart should give you some ideas

This is a copy of the comment in the video .Groz-Beckert.........Nm 100/16, 251 EL, 251 LG, 29 BNl, 29 CB, LW x 5 T. This link may be of help - https://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=NDL-251

I believe what you have there is a what we call a chain stitch machine and the bottom thread looks like this normally. As there is no bobbin you can not get a lock stitch to form as many other machines do. I think you have it as good as you can get it for now.

Had another thought........If you loosen your presser foot off enough to lift the feet up with your thumbs (that is often about the right setting on light stuff for me) when you lift them up high does your top back tension discs open up. In other words when you are stitching something thicker than 3/8" does that top back tension discs open up some??

Sounds like some progress. The clunky noise just may be that spring being bent over into the presser bar shaft as it lifts. I would do that squaring up first. If it is not missing going forward but is in reverse ....I have to ask what needle size thread size and point tip you are running??? It may be just that the the needle is not angled right. A picture would help. It may be that if your using a light gauge needle it is too far away from the hook. That can be adjusted with shims normally but I you may not want to do that in a hurry if you are planning on using a thicker needle and thread combination. I don't think that any timing adjustments will come into it if it stitches forward but not in reverse. Make sure you are using a new needle.

Pictures are very blurry and hard to make out. I can not see a thread return spring nor a thread take up lever. From the angle of the last photo above could you take a picture with the needle down then one with the needle 1/2 way up? Do not reduce the photo size quite so much.

Having had a look at Alexander Dyer's video and the ease with which a shim was added I can see no particular reason why a little can not be removed from the shuttle race holder at the rear. It is nice and flat. I was a little concerned about the needle plate movement around the 5 minute 40 sec mark but the dog foot and needle plate have no connection to the shuttle race so I assume the dog foot is rubbing the needle plate slightly but perhaps only because of loose screws.

Thanks for the info Wiz.

Thanks for the feedback @garypl. Hopefully some of the other people who now have them will share with us how they found theirs in use. I do gotta ask ...Did you actually get to stitch that holster that close to the edge at that thickness?

Is there some safe way to do this Wiz??

That link look promising but the options show from 2mm up. Strange that the picture they show shows a 1mm black???

Nah...I only keep um to save me havin to go out and slash all the weeds all the time. Saves me a small fortune in time and diesel. Oh and factory windows

Good to know that. If it is not too much trouble could you post a few close up pictures? I've got a 335 I might convert but not if the needle to edge is still like 11mm.

That is good if it works for you. Generally the first signs of heel pain are caused by bad arch support. When the shoe is not a good fit on the foot it allows over extension which then leads to the tendons tearing away from the calcaneus heel bone. Many modern shoes are not built with decent shanks in them if they even have them at all. As you get older you may find that with lower heels you start to suffer Achilles tendon tearing and spurs etc. If you mostly walk around on soft ground and such then you won't generally have many problems but if on concrete ............not good.

I don't much use foam in wallets myself but in a fair few purses and bags we do it a lot. At the moment I am working on a new range for a customer and this prototype one I just finished has 1mm foam in the lid, base and around the sides as well. Once I finished it I took it outside to get a few pics and of course my nosy girls just had to have an inspection. Ginger here reckons the colour just does not go for her Bomba on the other hand well ......the colour is great and she wants it NOW. Hardware except the zip and brand badge is all from the Buckle Guy.

Show a picture please. It may be just needing tighter top tension or it may be too tight down below for some reason.

Sorry mate that is something I do with my band knife splitter here. I can not get sheets at 1mm thick in Australia. I can get about 2mm and I split from there. Here is a link that may do what you want https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2510209.m570.l1313&_nkw=fun+foam+eva+1mm&_sacat=0 You could try googling fun foam eva 1mm

AS yet I have not seen or heard of anyone that has done the change over. Many people still claim that they can stitch with it fine as a standard sewer and they can do a decent job but another issue that bugs me more is that the needle is about 11 mm from the edge which is terrible when you are trying to get in there with tight gussets and stuff. The more standard types like say a Techsew 2600 will get you right up to about 1/4" from the edge.https://www.techsew.com/us/techsew-2600-narrow-cylinder-leather-industrial-sewing-machine.html

If its not the centre foot lightly rubbing the back foot somewhere it could be just that type of leather. Some leathers I use can be quite squeaky when sewn especially when doubled up. They are normally a little dry to the feel. Try a couple of other leathers and see if that can be ruled out first. Another thing....try dropping your foot pressure back as far as possible and see if that stops it. May be some rubbing from the presser foot spring. IF the presser foot catches a bit when you lift off of the job your doing then that could be it.

I do not know this machine myself. This video that you may not have seen does look to be a similar type and in the comments section below it they have answered someone as to what needle type they use. You may be able to contact them. If you could take some pictures showing the thread path in the top of the machine may help. It may also be out of timing and normally you can see this by Watching where the scarf of the needle is when the hook is passing the needle. The eye of the needle should be 1 to 2mm below where the hook is passing the needle. If this is not the case then the hook has to be adjusted around. The hook in your pictures does look very worn down.

That is I think the first problem. The thread in the video that you have asked questions on before shows that at 40 seconds in that the thread comes from the front and goes to the back. In picture 11 above the long slot of the needle is facing the front as it should and and therefore that is the way the thread should follow down for it to be able to form a loop in the scarf on the back side of the needle. In picture 12 it shows the thread is coming as you said from the back which is wrong. XXXXXX

Have a look at this before you go any further as it will only take a minute to find out. With your presser feet down, take the top foot pressure adjustment thing right out as shown below - Then lift the feet up and the spring will be easy to grab out With the Cowboy machines they come with 2 different springs, one for softer work and one for the hard stuff which is most likely the one you have in there. These buggars are not squared off on the end like they should be. This shows one end - this shows the other - Sometimes if you are lucky one end will be near to square and if you put the squared off end in first you may find that the feet now don't bind up on the shaft when they lift. When the spring is under pressure and it is not squared off it pushes the coil above on an angle enough to make it rub a lot into the presser bar shaft which is what I have found the problem to be previously. What I do to rectify is sand them down until they are flat and to make that easy I have a wooden block with a squared off notch attached to the bed of my belt sander as shown Then on and off I sand it down until its fairly level on both ends. This has worked very well to fix this issue for me so I would do it first before adjusting anything further. P.S. I broke a needle a couple of months back myself but I'm not telling anyone here about that

Just a note on this point. I have found if I try and load an over size picture it will not work to delete it and then try and put in the smaller picture size. It still tells you it is too big. I have found that you have to drop that posting go out of it then reopen and start again with the smaller picture and then it works. Sometimes if your quick it will remember all your words but allow the smaller picture to work.

@YinTx, Now if you have the needle bar and hook in their right place I think you should follow the steps as in this Video by Uwe. It does get to the end alright if you just follow the sequence in the order he has shown.