RockyAussie

I have to ask before I say too much, how much work of this type would you be putting through??? Is it for several hours in a day every day of the week? Is 3/8" the maximum you would ever need? This is a link to what over this side of the pond is called the Cowboy 6900 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Tjjs5DPgJM This machine will handle up to 1/2" thickness and for production work has a self oiling wick system which can be handy. It also has a knob up on top which allows you to raise the feet alternating height on the run if you get an extra thick bit, with a simple turn. Basically it is a copy of the Juki LS 1341. The feet use the very common Singer 111 feet which has a far far wider variety than the other 2 machines you mention. You can see the bigger brother of CB 4500 of the CB 3200 and CB 3500 in my other youtube vids. It has a longer arm and where the CB3200 can handle 1/2" the CB3500 and the CB 4500 can get you up to 7/8". https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a83lCJe4JKo

Huh????

Thanks @Wizcrafts Now that I have the Cowboy 246 which uses the Singer feet I can afford to give that a try. If not the CB 6900 lifts a little higher (1/2" as against 3/8") and has that beautiful square drive AND uses the Singer feet as well. I do like the smaller cylinder diameter of the CB 246 when it comes to doing the gussets though. I will let you know how it goes on the next batch.

There is no blue stiffener used only blue lining leather and the blue leather trim on the gusset. On the gusset edge there is a stiffener inside which has the outside leather folded over it. In the past I have used a flexible cardboard there but these days have gone to using a shoe heel grip material (Aquiline) http://www.texon.com/consumer-applications/texon-aquiline/ which has better flex and strength as well. All of the fittings used have a double ring for separate attachment of the shoulder strap. I have never had or heard of any issue with regards to any chafing and I have been making this model for over 25 years now.

Looks to me that your presser feet are not ideally shaped for the foam edge to needle distance. I don't think it will work well on a flatbed as the foam on the bottom side will be pushing up and stopping the strap from laying flat enough to give reliable stitching. The stitches would be likely to miss more as well. If you could load a picture of the strap sitting in place on the machine might help to give a better idea on getting some suggestions. The good thing about using the cylinder is that the swell of the foam can be off the edge of the needle plate and allow the needle to come down squarely.

Here is the video where you can see me doing my best to stay on the edge of the handle with the Adler. I think it will be easier with a zipper foot set perhaps ground back a little instead of the back foot I made myself from scratch. In there you can also see some of me stitching one of the gussets in place.

I forgot to mention that this machine takes the very common Singer 111 feet that are VERY affordable and come in more variations than you could imagine. Other than the standard feet here are a few of the other feet versions I decided to get with this machine when I bought it.

Hey @toxo I am in the process of editing up a video that shows a little where I am using the Adler 69 to sew some handles and my new Cowboy 246 which came in just after I finished stitching the handles. The 246 is a copy of the Juki 246 and has the advantage of the large M bobbin as well as a reciprocating dog foot feed. The end cover for the bobbin shuttle area is a coupe of mm wider than the Adler 69 but with a little grinding and polishing I have them pretty close in usefulness. The big machines that I designed the narrow needle plate set for have a far larger diameter at the bobbin end and I doubt they would suit your purpose for several reasons, one being that the smallest leather point needle for them is a 23 (160) and any threads under the 138 (20m) will not work so well. Following the link to the site that Constabulary put above you can see a version of the 246 on this other page of that supplier if it helps - https://www.sewtex.de/SIRUBA-Naehtechnik-243/FREIARM-STEPPSTICHMASCHINEN--CYLINDER-BED-LOCKSTITCH-MACHINES-246/Cylinder-Bed-246--Pfaff-335--1-needle-Cylinder-Lockstitch-Machine-with-Unison-Feed.html?XTCsid=933fc58973a36148c018499a1fd2fd50 Note that lower down on that page they show a DCS Juki in action. in the next few days I hope to have a video showing one of the bags shown below being stitched and showing why having a small cylinder is handy for stitching around the tight gusset sections. 246 bobbin on left 69 bobbin on right

If by fur rugs you mean hair on hides we get quite a few in from Italy and use them in quite a few of our handbag designs. They are generally pretty popular with sales. This is a link to my website in the tote bag section where you can see a couple of examples - https://wildharry.com.au/collections/tote-bags/Felicity

Looks to me not too far off the mark but I suspect that you are using a TRI point needle which is fine if you want to do real heavy work but to me does not have the better closed up look stitch you get with an LR leather point shape needle. I would almost be tempted to try a 24 needle with that tip with that thread in that temper leather. A softer leather will give you a better look as it pulls in better when forming the knot but sometimes the tightness of the top and bottom tensions will give you a better look and sometimes a lighter tension on both will give you a better look. Normally this will depend on what sort of leather firmness you are stitching. Practice make perfect

What sort of help are you needing @Rnshan40? Running 2 servos like that may not be the best way as the bell speed can run at a constant speed normally which is approx 1270 rpm. Some servos don't start when they are in the on position when started which means you may have to start it and set the speed every time you turn it on. This may present a problem if you can not get access to the back of the machine easily. We are using a constant speed 1450rpm motor with a 3" pulley to gear near the correct rpm. For the rubber roller feed Campbell Randall will have them but you can easily find them in a google search as well. (Be very carfull when adjusting the feed wheel angle and heights as if the rubber wheel contacts the blade that is the end of it.)

Check that the allen head bolt here is not loose where I have drawn a red line onto. If it is then you will need to find a location as where it works best which is normally where both feet lift the same amount when stitching. This one is where you can change the height more or less in relation to the front foot.

Fantastic looking work there Jon. I hope that you enjoy your retirement.

It looks to me that the problem is that your back foot should not be coming down onto your dog foot as it is. Several options may be able to solve that. If you have a slotted throat plate switch to that and try it. That means you have t take out the dog foot first. Second thing is widen out your Singer feet so that they cant touch the dog foot. The narrow dog foot and needle plate we make would make that a lot easier. The third thing is that I think also a part of the problem is that the Singer feet don't come as far forward as the original ones do and that it may be worth making an extension block to add to the presser bar with the slot cut out and set so that it is further forward than it presently is. This would also mean that you would not have to have your presser bar lowered and raised between different feet changes. This is the option I will work on myself. Best of luck and hope you get it working as you like.

I have just recently talked the local Cowboy dealers here into getting me a similar one in to try out. It is a CB 8365. So far it has taken a bit to get set up right but it appears to be testing out quite well. I have not been able to get a manual for it other than a similar Golden Wheel CS 8365 manual. I would like to see the Techsew one to compare if possible. I think this is another manual I will have to write up in the near future. I will do a youtube video on it sometime soon along with a couple of others on the new CB 246 narrow cylinder arm machine. One headache to start with was the bobbin winder having to go way back due to the long belt and position of the servo and speed reducing pulleys. This put where the thread needs to start right under the spool thread stand. Here is my solution to that for now - This pic shows one of the type of projects that this machine is really great for - This pic shows the extreme close to the edge possible for stitching . Note below that I decided to go with a foot lift instead of the knee lift

Could you show this please? For adjusting the timing in case you have not seen it before I will show this link to a video done by one of our best members on this forum @Uwe https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZT3AVgj_HLI&t=116s If you follow right through on all of the steps you will get to where the adjustments you want to change. Another thing that may help you is this link to where I helped develop a narrow needle plate and dog foot that may help to stop the dog foot from lifting your back presser foot. If you want to get a set pm me with your address details and I will get back with a cost.

Great idea there, I will have to have a look at that. Have you tried to lower the feed dog down first? Is there any reason you are running the blanket foot plate and feed dog? Did you lower the back presser foot bar to get it that low for the singer foot? If you put a 1mm piece of leather under the throat plate and screw it down you may find that it will in effect lower the dog foot further down as well.

Sorry bout that mate but as long as its me and not my work that's OK I think.

The thickness is not relevant it is how the leather stretches and lays down flat around the curve. The overall thickness here may even make it easier. You see in the video when he taps it down before stitching that the gusset is sitting nice and flat without any sign of buckling. You need to do a few circles on scraps (coasters maybe) to get the feel of how to hold and feed into the curve when stitching. It is very easy to get elongated stitches if you don't do it right particularly if you are pushing against a gusset as well.

Hi @Spyros comming around the corner for some reason or other you lost reliable presser foot tension. On a reasonably heavy job like this I suspect that you could use more foot pressure but....Looking at the video you can see that he has a nice skive going all the way around on the gusset and I know on those leathers it will make it sit out nice and flat and make the stitching happen quite a bit easier. You can see in yours a fair bit of bunching up in the corner which means for you to stitch it you had to somewhat force it around. In doing that you could be pressing upward at the same time and thereby loosing some of your down foot pressure. Having the left presser foot in, in this case may not be the best choice and I would try the right paddle foot instead as shown in this picture - Last thing.......I remember at one stage you were having some catching on the presser foot movement up and down. DO they run freely up and down now? If not I have done up some pics to show you how to make an adjustment to fix that.

Ok then not knowing if you are after a shaped dog collar or a straight one i will load a few pics and a video that may help. This video shows a chrome tan strap being folded - (you can do it by hand but its fiddly) From this stage of the strap making we often put a slightly less wide piece of feature skin on top as in this pictures below- What I was suggesting is the opposite of this in that the croc you see would be your veg lining which has had the edges burnished before gluing together similar to the edge coat finish on the croc in this picture above. Hope that is clearer for you.

I will get you some pictures to show better. Might be a couple of hours before I can get to it. If you have a picture or diagram of the collar please load it up as it may help me to explain better.

Couple of things come to mind when you say about the stitch length changing. The way the feed works on these machines means that as the leather thickness goes up the stitches get a little shorter in length. Not something you would notice on most jobs because you would seldom go from very thin to very thick. I did have a problem awhile back where when I was doing a large run of products the stitch length would not keep the same number of stitches at the same spacing piece after piece. I fixed that by putting in some more notches into the adjustment knob which you can see details of in this earlier post I did - Regarding the threads....My favourite is Aman Strongbond but getting anyone here that stocks a good range I have not found lately. I was getting it from Shann accessories down there but there range is getting dismal these days https://www.theshanngroup.com/product/amann-strongbond-thread-bonded-nylon/

Yep ...good for me too....