RockyAussie

I ran into a similar problem on my 331 pfaff awhile back. I ground too much off the right side of the foot and it broke so I made one up using a bit of flat metal off some machine that felt like it had a bit better than mild steel carbon to it. The piece was just a tad thicker than the foot and wide enough to do the job. This was all done using a drill for the slot hole end, a thin disc in an angle grinder, a Dremel thin cutting disc and a bit off polishing on a rag wheel with some Tripoly polishing compound. The Pfaff foot on the right has the broken foot at the back Cutting out the straight part here was the hardest part to do because you have to be careful not to go over deep. You can see here where I have made the right side thin to get my guide up closer to the needle than the standard foot allowed Here you can see it mounted on my machine. This allows me to stitch with the guide within 2.5mm from the edge. Time taken just over 2 hours but I have done a few before this one as well at other times. (Wear safety glasses)

Hey @Wizcrafts, No I didn't forget. They have 2 thicknesses, one is .2mm and the other they get water jet cut over here and is .55mm. Don't ask me what that is in thou or ounces Just out of interest I looked it up and a Bees dick is .25mm if that helps They sell them as a set for $10 over here so postage would make it near to double I guess. Same address?

Thanks for sharing @Hypomelanistic I will have a look into it.

I am curious how you do the process black oxide? That is some very nice looking work on the servo motor attachment

With a needle poke a little pva glue in the hole. Let it dry and give it a further poke if needed.

I agree I think on the top picture at the front that what you are seeing is a wipe with the heated iron. The iron reshapes and smooths out the edge paint and sometimes can run over the sides if you are not careful. This happens if you get the leatheredges too smooth or burnish it but it is not a problem if you do it correctly. This link I did awhile back making a watch band shows the technique I have been using for many years. This is how I do the belts and most edge painted finishes. This link can be found in my profile section in the about me section along with quite a few other projects I have shared.

I am not sure with all the different dealers but the Cowboy ones here come with bolts with rubber feet along with the castors. At least that is how they send them to me.

As a general rule thinner stuff will require less tension. If it is too tight top and bottom it will make the thinner weight stuff concertina together somewhat. This is most noticeable on anything 1mm or less. Over 2mm it is not so important but if the leather or fabric is soft it may need to change.

Sorry mate I just caught that one, I generally do if I don't have a camera in my other hand but I do make a practice all the same of starting off with a bit of scrap or the previous article in place which then makes it possible to not have to hold it normally. You should see the video where I am trying to show how to do the threading with a camera in one hand -

Yeah, I don't think I would like to have the weight that far forward. It would make it a fair bit more shaky I reckon. If you can get rid of the castors would be good. Lower and more stable and less clearance problems.

THAT is very true and I brought that up with them. It only takes a bit of angle tucked in under the table and that is how I believe all models will now be done . Steel at about 12mm thick. Yeah it is heavy and stable which is good I reckon. Not so great on casters with an uneven floor though. I have to get it onto the proper feet provided when I get space to move it into my factory sorry I meant studio........whatever.

This video should be checked out before thinking of using a U shaped table.

Do you have a link you can share to be able to see the video?

I found I ran into the same problem with the base and by moving the whole lot forward on the stand leg it worked for me. I have not as yet put in 2 front bolts. The pedal axle on yours is different and may present a problem doing the same thing but moving it forward did help a lot for me.

Very good effort. Maybe you can do a roller and flat that has enough of a recess to clear the feed dog and go under the feet. In out in with perhaps 2 or 3mm up in the out.

Very good to hear you have it solved. Thanks for the update. Now we get to see some of the work you can do with it I hope.

@suzelle The recommended needle range is 18 to 23/160 which means that the thickest thread should be 138 (20m). This is limited because ...1.to have the hook not have to be changed left or right between the thread ranges 2. the needle hole in the feed dog starts to get small if wanting to go to a larger needle. I have done a trial with 207 thread in a 23 needle with tension high on top and low on the bottom and can get reasonable result but not perfect in my opinion. A size 24 or 25 needle would be better but then I would need to slide the hook carriage back a touch and drill out the needle hole. This means the hole would then be undesirably large when wanting to do fine thin or soft stuff. If you had a spare feed dog then it would take maybe about 5 minutes to change it over. Pretty simple. Whether you needed to move the hook back closer for the thin needle stuff I don't know. If you know what your doing that would take another 5 minutes. If I get time over the next couple of weeks I will load up a video showing it stitching to maximum thickness (10mm) and at maximum thread as is. If 10mm or less but conditional as above. No. If you check the video you will see where I show that the 69 Adler has the typical binder type feed that it only moves on the one level back and forward. The tang out the front side would make it not possible.

I will chase it up with them asap. They are doing an Ag show this week so I would expect it will take a few days to sort out. Good tip, sounds a lot easier than cutting up a coke can to shape One thing at a time. Lets see the video with the feet down sewing first. Make sure the stitch length is very close so that the foot is near to the middle of the throat plate where it will be touching. Another thing I thought of....Being a new machine it may be possible that the shuttle race body is not fully seated at the back. One little bit of paint in there scratched off when assembling could be the cause. I have had one recently that was very tight to move and I had to do quite a bit of fine sandpaper sanding to get it smooth enough to move as it should. I also oiled it up when I finished to improve it.

They do have some shims over this side of the pond but I am thinking that the distance piece in this case is already too thick for the needle size so would require a thinner distance piece. Push to shove getting the distance piece reduced by a bit should work if other options were not available. I know that when going to a lot smaller needle size that it has been possible to use a coke cut to shape to make a slim shim to get the hook a bit closer. If the op wants to give me the thickness of his distance piece I could do a check with the dealers here to find out if a thinner one is available.

As @kgg said a video showing without the needle plate in place might help. I will load up the manual I have that shows what is called a distance piece which comes in various thicknesses to set the hook closer or further away from the needle. They normally come with a standard piece that suits most needles and I do not know if it is possible to get a piece that is a better thickness for your needle size or not. Look for the page that says Hook driving shaft components and see the part 17-23. CB4500+Instructions+&+Parts+Catalogue.pdf This video done by member @Uwe shows some of this part quite well. (He always does GREAT videos) At the end of it all I am not sure if what you are seeing is all bad or not and a video showing without the needle plate would help I think.

It is a copy of the Juki 246 if you search that maybe. I have to admit I have been pushing hard for a couple of years to get the dealer here to get me one in. Probably will not show up on the Hightex site for some time yet. There is a couple on order to Australia at the moment and maybe some more if this video can stir them up.

This is my latest video which shows the best sewing machine I could recommend to any beginner wanting to make leather goods. It is capable of fully sewing most products we make at Wild Harry. I hope that this helps anyone starting off wanting to make high end products like we do. Check it out to see the machine and some of the products being made.

No I have a couple of other options that I can use for my line of goods. A Cowboy 6900 = (CB 1341 in the US I think) and a Cowboy CB246 which is the smallest size cylinder arm in the range. If I did not have them options though I would design my gussets to use the holster plate ground down I think. I hope to come up with another cross breed version but that will be awhile away yet I think.

I might have to have a look into it. It sure would help at times. I think I just got into the habit of slowing down when I see the smoke forming. I make a habit of slowing down as I reach the last 6 inches or so because if you stop while it is smoking it will burn through for sure. I found by slowing down slowly I get away with it. Another thing that seems to help is running the thread through a felt kept wet with oil. That helps to reduce any glue coming up and sticking to the needle as well.

The thread is a metric 40 (TKT69) and the needle is an 110/18 schmetz. Shuks now ya gone an got me all embarrassed. Truth is mate I couldn't use half of these high tech machines even if I wanted to.