RockyAussie

I agree with the comment above by @mdawson. First thing I would do is make sure that the sharpening stone is disengaged properly. The sharpening stone should not be turning. Next disconnect the motor drive belt then see if the fuse blows when you hit the peddle. If it does contact Techsew or get a new motor. If it does not blow the fuse then turn the machine over by hand and feel if there is any catching or heavy resistance then engage the sharpening stone lever and repeat the hand turning test. It may be possible that the bearings in the shaft that the sharpening stone are going but that is not common or likely. If it is contact Techsew for help or fix it.

Not sure if Bob over there has these drop down guides but if so ...all I did there is drill out a bit of 10mm (3/8") thick aluminium bar and drilled it out to take the same bolt that holds the roller normally. I have been modifying a lot of these guides to fit up better onto the 441 clones so that they don't need to have the extended lever for the foot lifting and so on. Note that some of the older machines don't have the 2 holes in the back for bolting the drop guide straight on but I can give you the location positions if you want to drill and tap them. The bolts that come with them are 6mm standard threads. Just remembered...I made this pdf file which shows the drilling and tapping instructions - Cowboy CB4500 Drilling and tapping instructions for the drop down guide.pdf

Will do. I am guessing that they would behave way better at staying against the guide but I do tend to like the slanted stitch more myself. Did you get your shims alright yet?

Good targeting with the Reverb store and excelent reviews. I dont know your competition prices but at a glance I think you may be marketing too cheaply. At lest 30% up should be alright I think. I found when I started to do some price rising of recent times that I have actually increased sales. I think as long as your quality is top notch people are quite happy to spend and support you. I cant think of many brand names that are well named because they are so cheap except for ones I would not want to own myself.

If you want to make your belt stitching quicker and easier on a CB 4500 Cowboy machine then check out this video I just made. With the Cowboy standard drop down guide I changed it over to a flat bar guide which ALMOST allows hands free sewing. This is done with a size 27 LR needle in it at the moment and I think with a smaller needle the test would have worked out better still. The video -

Not at present friend but it is a good idea let me see what I can come up with.

Just in case you have missed this oiling point you can see in this video I did at about 5 minutes in a point that should been done on these machines fairly often -

Nice looking work the @TVvoodoo. Are you running a web page yet? You can put the link here as well which may help. Welcome to the pro world

Techsew, Cowboy and a few others come to mind. What country are you in? This post may have something of interest -

What is stopping you using the machine for the top line? Are the handle attachments in the way? Move them down a little if that is the problem. You could shorten the handle part where it stitches on as well if needed.

I bet she loves the ones you made more. Any pics to share?

Good news Rick. Them little things can make a big difference

What....that's that black duck mob is it not??? You should be making her some alpha2 better stuff that does not need repairing now.

Thanks for the feedback @BDAZ Thank you as well @sbrownn

A close up picture showing how parallel your feed dog is as against the back presser foot may help. With pressure on and with the foot not quite touching. My first suspicion is needle size to thread and overall top and bottom tension. Will the next size up needle fix it. If you lower your bobbin tension a 1/4 turn and back off your top tension does it improve? Is your presser foot tension way more than need be? I run as little foot pressure as possible to keep the needle from lifting the work as possible. Is your back foot swivelling back and forth? Sometimes the back foot little tabs at the top don't snug up to the presser bar tight enough. I generally take them feet to the anvil and hammer them in But make sure when you close them in that you dont have the foot angling up at the front when you put it in. Hammer the front tab? back a bit first then look for the parallel between the feed dog and foot. I just did a search and found this video at about 4 mins in shows the sloppy back foot I am talking about - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G6jfIaf3aww Other than that I am out of ideas....best of luck.

You are selling leather and mostly to people that would know the leather symbol (without the hole) so for me this one is good.

It looks to insipid to me. No strength and it needs to be a lot bolder. For package branding and stamping I would look to how it looks in black and white only and the font needs to be strong and simple to read - Union Leather Supply

This is the post mentioned above that may be what you are looking for. You can see in it that you can get down to around 4 oz total thickness but with your machine the smallest leather point needle is a 160 - 23 and that means the 138 (20m) thread is about it. Cost of the narrow needle plate set with delivery into the USA is $110 US.

That is some pretty fine looking stitching going on there in my opinion. With your crew punch holes, you may find a bit of practice with a pointy tip soldering iron could help. I run one through a light dimmer switch to keep the temperature down. Other thing I just thought, I have made up my own crew punches at times using seamless pipe. I make a steel piece up first the shape of the hole to help hammer the pipe into shape after I have flattened the pipe down a bit. I heat up with a gas blow torch and tap away until the shape is getting close then drive the pre made punch down into the hole and tap away some more. Grind the tip shape and finish off with a polish. I then find a bolt that is a little loose fit on the hammering end and put some tape on to keep it in place while I use the punch. You want it loose enough to take out to empty the cut out pieces.

Does the pattern have another keeper in it for that strap hanging out? @toxo looks pretty darn good to me

Hey @Wizcrafts, You did not stitch that 1" part that close to the edge when you sewed it did you? It was sanded back after stitching somewhat was it not? I hate to think of the consequences of trying to go that close to the edge on anything near that thick, especially for a beginner.

They come with a plastic cap to go over the brush which keeps it good for about 3 days or more generally. The plastic cap splits after awhile so I just wrap some tape around it to keep it more airtight. I generally keep a few spare brushes all the same and keep them soaking in some thinners between uses. The army type cans come in handy for that - Also a bottle with a bolt attached into its lid works well for the spike swapping

Yeah it does a bit. When I see that I need something better and I work out a solution I figga a few other could use the same thing also so I just share it around. That's alright mate. Friend of mine awhile back ran his Harley into the side of a bus. His missus said "How did you do that?" he replied he didn't see it. Quick as a wit she holds one hand in front of her eyes and moves her other arm around and said "BUS... WHAT BUS" Twas a bit hard not to laugh at him lying down in that hospital bed all wrapped up an all.

Clear contact cement. Try searching Duall contact adhesive. Depends which part of the world you are maybe. What you don't see much here is the strands that get around when you load up the swiper. A Kabi glue gun can make it easier.

Mostly this tells me you need a medium small cylinder arm machine. This video I made recently should be considered I think. A look at my Wild Harry web site shows a wide range of products we make and most of them can be made with the machine in this video. The machine is a clone of a Juki dsc 246. There are quite a few other brand copies of this machine including the Techsew 2600. Here is the video link - Note that the open end table is important in my opinion.