RockyAussie

I would not wish that for anyone but I am sure you will get yours happily running in not a long while. You can tell when the bearings are gone you can press the bell up and down and that is pretty rare.

This waver is more than likely a very small chip out of the bell edge. Turn it around slowly by hand and you should be able to see it. Sharpen then dress inside the bell then with a medium temper leather SLOWLY let it feed through for a few inches. This can help to remove and little fine bits of feather edge off of the bell edge. A couple of pictures showing your foot to feed roller positioning may help. AS for the speed ... the faster the bell goes and the slower the feed goes within reason will give you the best results. All of my skivers have either a clutch that allows me to feed in slow or a separate motor that does the same. My first old Fortuna had no clutch and and was a nightmare to get running well so I gave it away to some poor fella. Work on separating the bell feed to get it running continuously at about 1200 to 1300 rpm.

A new bell is around 45mm wide and anything less than around 30mm is getting near to worn out. The sharpening stone needs to not get to worn out either as it will make a shorter and steeper skive angle. Check if you have an adjustment bolt to shorten the length of the arm that the sharpening stone is attached to. it would look like in this pic if you have it - If yours has it you can undo it with a 12mm spanner and move it back to get a wider angle. I would not use the metal feed wheel unless doing heavy leathers, if you ever inadvertently let it touch the bell it will not be good. A medium grit feed stone should be best for most applications. I know this video is long and boring but unlike a lot of other stuff on the tube its not full of shit so just double check some of the info on it.

I don't see this as all that hard to think out. To show respect to the maker I ask you ...what if the welt area was not burnished at all and perhaps folded instead? In your specialty it says Holsters so the bottom pic with the knife beside the sheath should not be that much of a mystery I would have thought. I hope that is enough for you to see how.

First up you will find occasionally that some leathers have a sort of tendency to want to split at a certain thickness whatever the setting you try and dial in. Important points are to have the bell super sharp, the back feed stone spring set lightly and the feed stone set to almost touching the bell and set very parallel. Having a roller foot is important for this and you may have to experiment with some of the same leather scrap and move your bell a little closer or further away from the presser foot center line. Feed in slow as you go. Don't try and take less than .3mm off as it will not give the feed stone anything good to pull through. This video shows me doing something similar and may help - There is another one on my channel where I am doing some circular skiving and that gets a bit tricky.

Depends on the size and the thickness you want to cut really. 90% of what I use I spray the card pattern or masonite or printed plastic with contact glue then let it tack off for a few hours. This stops the pattern from moving around while I push the knife along the edge. This post I did awhile back shows both where I used cardstock with a spray glued back and plastic patterns I made with a spray glued back as well -

First thing I have to say I am in Australia and I have been wanting one of this type of machine for some years. I pushed pretty hard to get the Cowboys reps here to get me in this one and it did take some time. I would check if the dealers there would be happy to do the same for you first. If no good then Techsew have a similar machine you could check out. Note well that no one type machine will do everything you want and if I was starting off all over again I would still get a cylinder arm machine first but following that this would be my next investment for sure. I hope you go well with a Cowboy machine because over here at least I can say they look after their buyers and any issues they may have very well.

Got me thinking...Thanks for posting @Frodo

Yeah I've got a Adler 268 with a feed roller foot and about that high. Good machine but not anywhere near as useful overall. Good for shoe uppers and stuff but don't laugh....I mostly use it for stitching belts cause it goes so fast.

I think you have done pretty good on most details. Only thing I can offer is that the D attachment pieces could have been used to cover the side seam join at the top line. I am sure she will treasure it anyways.

Thanks mate. I only made it for the customer really so I should do a lot better when I do some more that really show its potential. What.....you want two??? I gotta admit I wish I had one years ago. Doing elbow patches and hat patches and jacket patches and so many things better than a patching machine could do. Might even have a go at them holes in my socks that seem to keep happening these days.

Your needle is in the wrong way around. Turn it 180 degrees and try again. Also an size 18 can often work better with the size 40 thread.

Here ya go - https://youtu.be/ncEgTJhOORs

This machine would have to be one of the most versatile sewing machines for its price on the market but strangely it is rare to see it in action so here is my bit on using it for now. It does allow for many products to be more simply constructed and it has been a very simple machine to operate and use. As time allows I will try and show some more of its uses on my YouTube channel. Here it is -

Does this machine not have a needle guide down under the needle plate? I believe that on most other 441 class machines that this part is where a feed dog is normally in place and what @Wizcrafts is suggesting is that you check that this part has not come loose. As for the needle/walking foot timing I have to wonder why it would be right most of the time and not other times. I would first check that the back walking foot lifts smoothly and easily without any catching This pic shows a screw that allows the roller to be tighter or looser to the guide for the back walking foot - and then also that there is no excessive slop in any of the linkages that connect to the front walking foot and needle bar assembly. Make sure that the connecting rod coming off of the cam on the end of upper shaft has not come too loose or worn out. Many many operators do not do a good enough job of lubricating those knuckles on these rods. They do have oil holes in them and most people do NOT oil them. No video or even most manuals show all of the holes that should be oiled on these machines. Simple ...if it turns/revolves it should be oiled.

It is not unusual to have to change the top tension on the run. Normally you would have the tension set for doing the thicker part then as you get down to the thinner parts work out if a half a turn or more out is enough to keep the stitching centered. Usually the knots come to the top on the thin stuff so loosening is what has to happen. If the thread is too thick to center into a single layer alright then nothing will help except thinner thread. Another suggestion and just MY opinion ...on the 341 don'. t go over the little post beside the tension discs as nearly all the videos seem to show. Show me where it is done this way in the Juki manual if you like. Thinner threads will file a track in that post and cause you no end of grief when it starts to serrate the thicker threads.

That it is. I have never come across any other machine that can sew that close to the edge of a product. Only problem I have with it is that the needle goes in the other direction (long slot to the right) and so does the thread. Cant think how many times out of habit I have put the thread in from the left instead of the right. Makes stitching tall totes an easy job when you get it right though. . I have done a bit of a crappy video (more crappy that my usual stuff) on a tote bag stitch which I will put up soon only because there is so little to be seen out there on these machines in use.

Is that fob attached to the belt keeper? How is this so done? That to me is artistic

The machine for that job is a tall post. This is a couple of pictures of one I have here. It is a Cowboy CB 8365. I have not had time to do any videos yet but I will try and get some up soon.

Good Video @TomE and thanks for sharing. You may think about using a temperature controlled soldering iron as I have used for many years now. Here is a post I did showing how I made one up using a light dimmer switch Although I have used edge coat in that posting it does work well with wax coatings as well.

Excellent work

May be able to help. If you want send me a pm message with your phone number and I will give you a call or swap back my ph number.

Had me looking for a bit but I think this is the one you mention Matt

One on the left I am pretty sure is a sole stitch channeler. If it is the same as one of mine somewhere it has a curved blade that cuts an angled slice just in from the edge of the sole which gets pushed back when stitching the sole on and then gets glued down to hide and protect the stitch.

As long as Pats needle plate can move a little to the left when done up then you can adjust the feed dog as I show in this video - You could also file away some on the left inner edge of the needle plate if needed.