RockyAussie

Nice looking work there @TomE

Its not too bad. I would bone slicker some pressure over the whole area and heavily redo the crease line as that should be able to pull the leather tighter into the groove area.

A picture would help maybe. A double crease line possible?

WOW that is a bargain. For anyone needing some pointers on how to set up one of these from the start check this video I made awhile back - If you check some of the other videos on my channel you might find a few more related ones that could help.

I came across a servo that looks like that one recently doing the same thing. We ordered in a new motor to replace it but before doing that we took the motor off to see if we could find anything. I think there must be a magnet thing inside because when we gave it a shake to start with there was a rattle noise but then it stopped rattling. We thought well lets give it another try on the machine and it then went fine. Its been going strong now for maybe 3 months without any noise. Maybe the sudden stop they do sometimes shook the magnet loose, I don't know. He now has a backup motor if needed now but means he would have to drill some new table mounting holes etc which is why we tried the other old one first.

There are several reasons that could cause this problem unfortunately. Sometimes even high quality leathers to start with can age and deteriorate in time and the wrong conditions. Some leather are tanned poorly and if the finishing is not done well it can crack easily. Generally I test a strip of leather before I make it up by bending it over fairly tightly to see how the grain is running and if it looks likely to crack. There are a couple of places over here that sell cheap veg under different names so if you want to give me a call feel welcome to do so through my Wild Harry contact phone Wild Harry Regards Brian

For anyone interested I can vouch that the Narrow presser foot set made by Patric are a very useful addition to have for any of the 441 clones. I have been making and selling molds for wet casting a lot of different pouches which can be seen on my YouTube channel and most of these get stitched using this foot set. You can see on this video where I am using one of Patric's sets stitching up a Leatherman pouch which I have made using the mold I make and sell.

Nice deep forming and the edge finish looks good as well. Like the formed belt holder part and the one piece pattern.

I think @kgg pretty well answered that for me. Possibly if I had the printer he has I would be better off speed wise but either way not having a printer backup leaves me nervous at times. I hate not being able to get people what they pay for as quick as I say. If one of these parts go bang and I am left waiting for a replacement I would not sleep well. So far no body has had to wait more than a week luckily. I have looked a little at the Bambu printer but I as yet nervous about the operating system not being open source exactly. I could do a lot more improvements on the one I have yet and with another new one I may be able to get time to do some of these changes.

Looks like you have them set alright which makes me think the snaps are too week. As you already have them installed I would suggest some light tapping around the rim on the side that holds the clip ring. A little resistance there should make it harder to open but too much and you may have trouble getting it closed. Good move

Thanks @kgg I am quickly learning over the last couple of months how long parts don't last in a 3d printer. Its a Tronxy x5sa pro and I can get it to do good quality but the power supply fan, the parts cooling fan the extruder bearings amongst a few other parts have all needed replacing in this time. I will have to get another one pretty soon cause people just keep on ordering and I just can not get stock ready ahead let alone keeping up with my normal customer orders.

Could you show a picture of how you have installed the snaps? I would have thought that the snaps you show would have had too long a length for that thickness leather and that may be stopping the snaps from fully closing as they should.

Sorry to take this long to answer, I have been flat out making 3d casting molds for other makers over here of late. You should have a set soon Michael. I have pm you back.

I feel your pain so have pm'd you back. Best regards Brian

Bell skiver should be around 1270 RPM

I forgot to say there is a screw on the back of the head that may need to be loosened as well. This post link should show a diagram that may help you better -

Looks like the center walking foot and needle bar may be both be too far to the left. They are all in one block together and I am sure you can adjust the whole lot a little to the right. Look at the machine head in front of the needle bar and you will see a screw bolt that is slightly slotted and above that in a hole is a locking screw which needs to be undone first. I would take the side cover off and have a good look at the whole lot first. If the needle bar or its clamp were out of line it would show up pretty easy by loosening the needle bar and turning it around while watching the needle.

Funny you mention that. I have a freind up the road had his dog sit on the peddle while the machine was still turned on. A nasty mess with timing and all. Always make sure you turn the machine off when you finish I learned. Servo's don't let you know they are running.

Hi @kgg , I would suggest dropping out the left leg and try and get something closer to the 3rd pic down on this page.http://www.cowboysew.com/heavy-sewing-machine-stand.htm In this video I did awhile back shows what I think is a good reason to consider it all be it a different machine the same problem exists

@fredk, I have to ask ,why veg tan on steering wheel covers? The heat through a windscreen over here would shrink veg very quickly.

With soft upholstery type leathers you will need to have the spring pressure for the feed roller on the lowest setting. You will need to polish your presser foot shiny enough to see your teeth when smile. Less pressure means the the leather does not so easily roll back as it feeds through into the bell knife edge. A roller foot is a lot better for this in my opinion. The distance of the presser foot to the edge of the bell should be quite close (.3mm) as you can see in this video I made - A separate motor that allows the bell to run continuously at around 1270 rpm also helps as when you are feeding slow the bell is cutting at max efficiency at the same time.You see the separate motor at the front in the video picture above. Last thing is that upholstery type leather loves sticking to the feed stones and wrapping around and wrecking your work. I also always recommend getting a skiver with vacuum extraction for that reason. I am working on a funnel for this at the moment and will load a video showing it in action within a week or 2. Here is a couple of pics of it at the moment - The first one shows where I have designed it to attach to common plumbing fittings to feed into a scrap collection box to which then a vacuum can be also attached to. To set in position you mark the front and side of the machine to give a line up position for the edge of the funnel assembly. I will do a seperate posting of this when I have finished all the testing. So far it is going well.

Thanks for the thought mate, I will have a look in the local one when I get in town next.

This Paskal mob over this way do some snaps but they dont have much of a colour range. What they do have is different spring pressure settings in the socket section. The stiff ones are very bloody stiff. https://www.paskal.com.au/media/productattach/p/a/paskal_press_studs_specs.pdf

Nice and tidy work. Well done