RockyAussie

@robygen There are a LOT of possible reasons that could cause this and to help narrow this down it would help to have some pictures or even better a video showing what is happening. Have you used the machine alright previously or not? Do you have both feet attached? When you say the presser foot does not move do you mean they will not lift? or will not move forward and back?

Could you load some pics of the thread path showing the top tension discs and down on the bottom around the thread return spring? The thread return spring may be getting too much travel but the spring pressure of it may be applying too much pressure as well. It can be adjusted to give more or less if needed. The thick thread you are using may be going through too many unnecessary paths as well. Pictures will help. Did you back out the bobbin race cover screws as Wiz suggested? Some newer machines can be a little too tight in this area and may need some sanding back to allow the race to move freely as it should in there. Ideally when the screws are out about 1 turn you can easily move the race in and out and the springs will keep things in place. In your videos the screws appear to be wound in tight.

Your welcome, here is a pic where I am using the open toe foot with the right paddle foot.

As Wiz said above there is a possibility that the feed dog could be loose or needs some sideways adjustment. This video I made although done for mounting the narrow needle plate set would hold true for the standard set as well -

That setup will be fine for doing the bag gussets though you may want to get an open toe center foot for better vision. We make a narrow needle plate set for the cb3200 if that helps and you can read some stuff about it in this post if you like If you would like a set pm me here and I will get back with a price delivered. I would need to know what country you are are in to work out the postage cost part.

There are a whole lot of varying factors that may need to be considered such as the thread take up spring pressure etc but ...to simplify this tension question, if the leather is thin or soft you would normally run light spring pressure on both the top and bottom tensions. If the tension is too tight it will gather the leather together. If you were doing firm leather then you would run a tighter pressure top and bottom. As a very rough guide on most machines you would start off by having your top tension adjustment so that the the screw adjustment was close to half way in. If you had say 9 full turns of adjustment untill you could screw in the top tension no tighter then the starting point ideally would be about 4 and 1/2 turns out. This then means that you have the most adjustment possible tighter or looser on the top tension. Once that is set you then set your bobbin tension so that it can be pulled out by hand reasonably easily to start with then test stitch and adjust until the bobbin spring pressure balances the knot consistently. This should give you a setting that for most leather only requires adjusting the top tension. The top tension is then way easier to adjust on the run if needed which is something I do when the thickness or stiffness changes on jobs as it does sometimes. Foot pressure is also important to adjust on the run sometimes etc. In this video I start with some fabric and the tension is tighter than it should be but not shown is where I tighten the top tension several times as I go up into the thicker stiff leather -

Rubber soles need fairly rough sandpaper to cut away well and that means the grinders you show above lack the horsepower to do the job. A 1 horsepower would be a better choice. The https://www.justwood.com/buy/75mm-sleeveless-drum-sander_34.htm link is reasonably useful up to a point and I have used it for sanding edges of leather when making belts etc. This link shows a video where I have used a couple of 1/3hp motors and similar sanding drums to sand belt edges if that helps - What rpm is ideal will depend on the diameter of the sanding drum as the surface contact area is what is what counts. The smaller the drum the slower the contact speed. On a 6" drum 3000 rpm will be too fast. I would think about running a transfer pulley set up to allow for changing speeds to what ever you find works best. As a rough guide I would expect a rpm of around 1500 would be a good starting point for most applications as long as the motor has sufficient horsepower. The pvc pipes do work well for the dust extraction and they are attached to a 2 hp extractor unit.

Darn that is some nice looking stuff. Wish that pond was not so large, for that price . I got no plans for overseas travel but if I ever get over there I am gonna visit for sure.

Yes I believe that rpm speed is way over ideal. You can get a crepe rubber stick for cleaning the sandpaper up which can help but overall a finishing machine would be the best bet really. They generally are good at removing most of the dust as you sand at that is more important for your health.

That is what I was afraid I might see. Without picking up another head somewhere I think it will be pretty hard to get going but that said ...the vacuum part and table of it could be worth an easy $200+. If here in OZ I would pay that and more. IF you could work in close with one of the dealers and if one is close by then you may be able to find some compatible parts.

It has some similarities to a Fortuna skiver but I can not see from your pictures how the sharpening stone can be driven. Normally there is a belt that feeds inside through the machine and that hooks over the back right pulley set up. Some other machines run off a clutch that is on the right front pulley but I see no front control knob to actuate it. Otherwise I see a fair bit to do but the part that worries me most is that there is no cover over the back gearbox that transfers the motion to the feed roller. If you turn the back right pulley clockwise by hand does the feed stone revolve alright? The bell looks to have plenty of metal left so that's good. The left cover that is missing should not matter to start with. I will try and load up a pdf file that may be to large as that may help a little. Best of luck.Fortuna 50 p ag.pdf

I would be doing a binder edge either fabric tape or leather if you prefer. I am not sure but you may have come in a little too far from the edge when connecting the gusset to the front section. 1/8" in would be my guess would work best which I think would make the gusset area not stick out so much. NOT to bad overall though..

Sometimes I use a vinyl and sometimes along with backing with stiffeners but having some cheap real leather is the best way to go. If you know that you are only using it for pattern work prototyping you can normally pick up crappy leather that nobody wants to buy for a giveaway price. If he is close enough call @nstarleather or email him as I think he may be able to help nstarleather@shtc.net

when you have it set up and working and you are familiar with how to get it to print let me know if you need some help. I would be happy to do that for you. Show me the type of product you want to do and any ideas of the pouch design and I will do my best. The customer is very pleased which is always a +. The tabs I have not done before but for doing a lot in a day it was the best I could think of and so far it works well. For those into 3D printing ....the tabs are solid and done in 2 parts then glued together. This is to give the best strength to the pressure pull on the tab. The other parts are 2mm walls including top and bottom with a 30% fill. All up this one chewed up about 700 grams. Took longer to print than it took me to design.

This video shows how I have made up a 3D printed mould with retaining clips for wet moulding a pliers pouch. The customer for this job wants to cast up to 28 pouches in a day which will require a few moulds to allow some drying time in between castings. This is also why I designed the retaining clips to allow for a quick clamping method which would not require any extra hardware to be used between castings. This is my first prototype version at the moment and I will try and do up a finished pouch by Christmas. If you do any pouches on a repetitive basis and would like to know more contact me. Follow my channel if you want to see more on how it is made.

Doubt it will help by other comments on this page but I have to say that like a lot of stuff these days the whole world just seems to be going nowhere very quickly. https://www.facebook.com/theupsstore/

For most stuff I make I need the narrow needle plate set and if you got a fair bit of time to spare for reading this post will show and tell why - While you are there if you check the video and have a look at my other videos on my channel you can see also a few on a Cowboy CB6900 which I believe the Cowboy people over that side of the pond call a Cowboy 1341 or the Techsew people call a 4800. This is just one of the few - Note I think it is a great machine for wallets and bags but it would not be my personal choice for heavy duty knife pouch and holster work.

On some machines that would be true but for certain not with this model. Slow or fast the oil feed is happening. The 4800 has a square drive feed that means you have a more reliable consistent stitch length when going over thick and thin sections.

It may help also if you have a picture that shows the non binding kit pieces. I have both a 335 binder clone and a similar one that is not with a binder but there are quite a few differences such as the feed dog being able to reciprocate instead of only going back and forth,distance of the needle hole position from the end etc. The hook and perhaps the feed dog may just need to be moved to line up correctly (left or right) but I cant think why the timing would need to be changed.

I have a bit of an odd shape knife here and I have not done a pouch for one like this before. I am wanting to stitch 2 lines around the outside edge but it would be nice if I did not do any stitching on the fold over I think. Because of the welt I am thinking i will have to do at least one line there. Do you think that would look alright? or should I do 2 lines all the way? This picture is to show how the welt goes fully around -

That is so sweet of her. You should show your gratitude and repack the refrigerator so that every thing is sorted by date and size. Oldest to the front of course. Make sure your smiling with an expectant approval look when she opens it up. My missus packs up my mess she calls it and when I go searching I find drill bits and screw drivers and pens and all sorts of stuff with no particular apparent arrangement at all.

I have a Fortuna , a FAV AV2 and a Cowboy 801 and they all are good but I have to add that the Cowboy one is supplied in this case with a vacuum extraction and a second motor to run the bell separately. Chrome or veg no problems. All of these machines are with a vacuum extraction and I would advise to get one that way as it helps a lot with the softer leathers to stop the split waste coming up on the feed stone and wrecking the leather you just skived. Other thing I would advise is getting a roller for the presser foot as that makes most jobs run through easier and in particular thick veg stuff. If you check out my youtube channel you will see a few videos that can help like this one -

Yep that goat skin does not look that friendly for the job. Once you have a good pattern does make it easier but in order to get that I would do the following. Lightly glue the goat onto the top only temporarily only gluing the top section at this stage. Then with a slicker lightly push down the sides to find where the leather can have any surplus taken off at the edges. Do not leave longer than needed. Do the same as best you can around the tip and corners and mark to cut off. Pull the goat off of the veg and skive in 1/2" or more if possible and keep it thin. The thinner you make it the less you have to try and condense later. You can see where I have done something similar with a very long 8 1/2" folding knife I did some time back in crocodile. Croc does have a slight advantage at not showing the condensing as much sometimes. When you have finished the skiving do another push on test and trim some if needed. Try not to apply with using the top mould as you can pull and push better without it getting in the way and keep in mind not to pull and stretch the leather too much as you go. Work your way down by going down in small steps from the top and dont let any touch the bottom flick out until you have all the edges to the bottom.

Would you be able to post a picture of the part that is giving you trouble? Above you say lining and I am trying to get what the problem is. If it helps any I can generally get most stuff to work with a pointed bone folder and a pointed end bolt where things get really tight. As much as possible let the leather flow into place rather than trying to stretch it too much.

This is a video I just made showing an old air driven rivet press I have set up for cutting the ends of a large quantity of belt strips. In this case I only needed to do a square end cut so I used a piece cut out from an old clicker knife pressed into a piece I lathed up to fit the press. I believe it could be suitable for quick hole punching and shaped end cuts as well.