RockyAussie

It looks to me that the problem is that your back foot should not be coming down onto your dog foot as it is. Several options may be able to solve that. If you have a slotted throat plate switch to that and try it. That means you have t take out the dog foot first. Second thing is widen out your Singer feet so that they cant touch the dog foot. The narrow dog foot and needle plate we make would make that a lot easier. The third thing is that I think also a part of the problem is that the Singer feet don't come as far forward as the original ones do and that it may be worth making an extension block to add to the presser bar with the slot cut out and set so that it is further forward than it presently is. This would also mean that you would not have to have your presser bar lowered and raised between different feet changes. This is the option I will work on myself. Best of luck and hope you get it working as you like.

I have just recently talked the local Cowboy dealers here into getting me a similar one in to try out. It is a CB 8365. So far it has taken a bit to get set up right but it appears to be testing out quite well. I have not been able to get a manual for it other than a similar Golden Wheel CS 8365 manual. I would like to see the Techsew one to compare if possible. I think this is another manual I will have to write up in the near future. I will do a youtube video on it sometime soon along with a couple of others on the new CB 246 narrow cylinder arm machine. One headache to start with was the bobbin winder having to go way back due to the long belt and position of the servo and speed reducing pulleys. This put where the thread needs to start right under the spool thread stand. Here is my solution to that for now - This pic shows one of the type of projects that this machine is really great for - This pic shows the extreme close to the edge possible for stitching . Note below that I decided to go with a foot lift instead of the knee lift

Could you show this please? For adjusting the timing in case you have not seen it before I will show this link to a video done by one of our best members on this forum @Uwe https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZT3AVgj_HLI&t=116s If you follow right through on all of the steps you will get to where the adjustments you want to change. Another thing that may help you is this link to where I helped develop a narrow needle plate and dog foot that may help to stop the dog foot from lifting your back presser foot. If you want to get a set pm me with your address details and I will get back with a cost.

Great idea there, I will have to have a look at that. Have you tried to lower the feed dog down first? Is there any reason you are running the blanket foot plate and feed dog? Did you lower the back presser foot bar to get it that low for the singer foot? If you put a 1mm piece of leather under the throat plate and screw it down you may find that it will in effect lower the dog foot further down as well.

Sorry bout that mate but as long as its me and not my work that's OK I think.

The thickness is not relevant it is how the leather stretches and lays down flat around the curve. The overall thickness here may even make it easier. You see in the video when he taps it down before stitching that the gusset is sitting nice and flat without any sign of buckling. You need to do a few circles on scraps (coasters maybe) to get the feel of how to hold and feed into the curve when stitching. It is very easy to get elongated stitches if you don't do it right particularly if you are pushing against a gusset as well.

Hi @Spyros comming around the corner for some reason or other you lost reliable presser foot tension. On a reasonably heavy job like this I suspect that you could use more foot pressure but....Looking at the video you can see that he has a nice skive going all the way around on the gusset and I know on those leathers it will make it sit out nice and flat and make the stitching happen quite a bit easier. You can see in yours a fair bit of bunching up in the corner which means for you to stitch it you had to somewhat force it around. In doing that you could be pressing upward at the same time and thereby loosing some of your down foot pressure. Having the left presser foot in, in this case may not be the best choice and I would try the right paddle foot instead as shown in this picture - Last thing.......I remember at one stage you were having some catching on the presser foot movement up and down. DO they run freely up and down now? If not I have done up some pics to show you how to make an adjustment to fix that.

Ok then not knowing if you are after a shaped dog collar or a straight one i will load a few pics and a video that may help. This video shows a chrome tan strap being folded - (you can do it by hand but its fiddly) From this stage of the strap making we often put a slightly less wide piece of feature skin on top as in this pictures below- What I was suggesting is the opposite of this in that the croc you see would be your veg lining which has had the edges burnished before gluing together similar to the edge coat finish on the croc in this picture above. Hope that is clearer for you.

I will get you some pictures to show better. Might be a couple of hours before I can get to it. If you have a picture or diagram of the collar please load it up as it may help me to explain better.

Couple of things come to mind when you say about the stitch length changing. The way the feed works on these machines means that as the leather thickness goes up the stitches get a little shorter in length. Not something you would notice on most jobs because you would seldom go from very thin to very thick. I did have a problem awhile back where when I was doing a large run of products the stitch length would not keep the same number of stitches at the same spacing piece after piece. I fixed that by putting in some more notches into the adjustment knob which you can see details of in this earlier post I did - Regarding the threads....My favourite is Aman Strongbond but getting anyone here that stocks a good range I have not found lately. I was getting it from Shann accessories down there but there range is getting dismal these days https://www.theshanngroup.com/product/amann-strongbond-thread-bonded-nylon/

Yep ...good for me too....

You could edge coat the 2 leathers after trimming and sanding to size or what you may find easier is to fold your chrome tan in on the edges so that it ends up being slightly wider than your veg tan liner width. Then burnish the edges of your veg before sticking it to the wider outside piece. This if done well means you should not need to do any further edge work other than stitching it together. If you don't have a good edge skiving machine for the chrome tan edges you may want to put in a filler to keep a nice proud profile look. For extra durability this filler could be done with some webbing.

Looks a bit like my first efforts when I was working out how to make them. I eventually made the needle plate shaped to allow smaller gussets and stuff to run through. As in this pic - Something you can do pretty easy but the dog foot may be a whole other story.....There is not a lot of metal in the web to support this shape and CNC cutting I think you will find will not give you the strength needed to resist the pressure of the foot bending the feed dog down and into the needle plate. This is why we decided to go with the casting and hardening process as the original machine makers have as well. If you stick to the light weight work it may be alright maybe. You can do as Wiz said and use a washer instead IF you can get the right thickness to suit what adjustment is needed. Some machines can go out of adjustment and they can be hard to get every thing back where they should be. With this shim with the slot method the more in and down it goes the more the adjustment plate is angled forward and thus limiting the reverse length stitch to where it may need to be. Depending on the thickness of leather that gets used on a given job the amount that the adjustment plate needs to be angled may differ from a thinner or thicker job and this gives a quick and easy way to do any correction that may be needed. Some Adler machines along this line used an angle iron shape with adjustable pins that allowed you to limit both the forward and reverse stitch lengths. Myself... although my machine does do a good job at reverse stitching I never trust that I am going to get the needle back in the hole exactly where I want it to go so I just lift the foot and go back by hand a few times. If the machine does it it can spear and cut the threads a bit more than I do. Note: most of the stuff I make is out of crocodile and pretty high end so maybe I am over fussy.

One tip I do may help. Give your pattern (or ruler) a coat of contact glue and let it dry off until its barely tacky. This helps to stop the leather moving and pulling out that bit as the knife nears the end of the cut. When you pack your patterns away just watch to not put the contact sides together. Being wheel chair bound another thing that could help is to do your cutting on a HDPE kitchen cutting board. This enables you to spin the job around on the table without having to move your leather and pattern around. Works good when you sit on a chair to work as well.

I just put in the search term you mentioned above 1/8-40

Probably not what you're looking for but just in case

No problem. If you go to this link on the first page you can see I have uploaded the file you want.

Just checked your video and I have to warn you that you should never run your machine with the feet down and going against the feed dog. It will put a heap of scratches on your top feet which then can make a lot of scratches show up on your leather. Maybe I am a bit sensitive to it because I do a lot of glazed crocodile and I know it shows up there for sure. If you want to get even tighter stitching with the 69 Adler you might find this post interesting to have a look at -

Don't know rightly if you would call this a hand tool but I find it good to mark lines around the border of belts and other products like my wallets and such. It works by allowing you to push down a lever at the back which opens it up to put in the piece to be line marked. The big knob at the top of it allows adjustment of the spring pressure you want to apply to the roller to press down with into the leather. Once you have the leather in place you just turn the handle and roll the job through. The blue masking tape I have put on to stop any knurl marks showing up on the job. There are 3 different fence guides that can be used which can be revolved up to allow for curve type jobs or straight long jobs etc. When you fold the edges over on a wallet you can get some uneven look with the edge so by using this tool I get what looks to be a nice straight line somewhat. Some of these come with a temperature controlled heater as well but I have not really found much need for that option.

Sorry ....I am confused. If it is an Adler 69 and is not a binder version would it not be a triple feed anyway? I can not understand why the shown feet would not work?

Good looking products, good attitude, extra good video. I wish you well in the competition and whether you win it or not will not matter because you will get great exposure anyway and win in the end

Honestly....save up a bit and get yourself a bell skiver. You can use them well enough for splitting when you need to and you also then have the advantage of being able to do skived edges way quicker and easier than mucking about doing it by hand. I am doing up a manual at the moment for the new Cowboy version here in Australia and that will also come with a few " How To videos" which will assist new owners on how to use these machines. If you want to have a talk pm me a message and I will give you a call. If you check this old video I did awhile back you can see a little on how you can use a bell skiver to split leather down.-

Yeah if I remember right the first awl like that I got I could not get the blades to fit either. In frustration I ground down a screw driver which now and then I still make use of. You can get blades that do fit but being able to knock up your own comes in handy caus you can make them to suit the job better sometimes. Here's that old screwdriver one -

I came up with the same results. I hope that the model numbers have been mixed up and we are wrong. I have to say I have a few Pfaff's and I although they are great machines I could not think of any that would be suitable for this sort of normally heavy duty work. That is why I had to go look.