RockyAussie

@Chux design looks good the stitching not so. The tension looks too tight on the top line in the first picture but I am wondering if it could be because it looks like you have run off of the edge on the inside lining. I have to ask what sewing machine you are using and whether it has a guide or not? Does it have a servo motor? Maybe you need to get it to slow slower. I can see some talent here but not with your stitching....yet. Thread tension - If the thread is coming off the cone alright and smoothly then check your bobbin is also able to pull out smoothly. After that get some scrap and start stitching then tighten the top tension 1/2 turn and check the results then take it back. When you go from thick stuff and then down to thin stuff you can normally get away with a half turn tighter on the thicker stuff and 1/2 turn looser when going over the thin stuff. I adjust on the run quite often like this.

@Chux A skiver of any type like that will not work well if at all on the softer upholstery type leathers. For medium to firm veg tan leathers you may be lucky. @MtlBiker Yes it is permanently glued in place but not all the way to the bottom in this case. If a stiffener that only goes down partly inside on the outer skin you stand the risk of having a line show up on the outside. The stiffener in this product also serves to give an extra reinforcement for where the straps go into the bag for the rivets. These pictures are from the same bag design but in black. You will notice that the heavy fabric that is reinforcing the top line finishes short of the ends and that is to allow for the backfolding of the sides when they get done before the restitching down the sides with a tall post machine. Below you can see where I have attached a fabric tape to further reinforce the edges Yes that was mentioned above. There are many types of reinforcing boards made by various brands and in this case the Texon board is mostly used for the insoles in shoes. The size is normally about 1.5m x 1m and costs around $30.00 I think per sheet. Bontex is another brand that Blue Duck mentioned above and it also is mostly made for insoles of shoes. They are separate pieces that get sewn in at the same time as the top line stitching. Here below you see 4 fabric pieces that are folded and they have been folded over a inner piece of fabric. Those 4 pieces get attached together to end up like this which then gets attached to the top line lining edge and stitched with the top line stitching. I don't have any good ones showing down inside the bag but this picture shows the lining with an inside flap pocket. This is inside out and the magnet tabs are not attached until the lining gets put inside the outer.

If it is not the leather making it squeak then something that seems to get overlooked in video instructions is a LOT inside the end cover but more to my surprise is the large oil hole up on top which often has a rubber cover over it. It is not marked around with red paint so I guess it gets overlooked. Take the rubber cap off if it is there and you can look down in and see the top of the needle bar where it rides in its guide. If you take the needle down to the bottom you can then put a few drops down the tube to lubricate the needle bar there. Same a bit with the presser bar, it has a funnel shape at the top and no paint but if you want to oil that presser bar guide you put a few drop there as well. I spent about 2 hours going over one machine oiling ever little thing I could find only to find out the the speed reducer pulley had an over tightened Allen head bolt. The squeak stopped when I loosened it. Had to replace its bearings.

You will be hard pressed to find another more capable machine than the Adler 669 for what you have described for your needs. Even that machine will not go anywhere near I believe that the 669 would handle up to about 9 maybe 10mm tops. Other than that the Pfaff 335 has one BIG disadvantage in that they are mostly set up for binding operations and the needle from the end is about 9mm which is not ideal when trying to stitch in gussets etc. Also the old models come with a standard bobbin size about half that of M size bobbins. This video shows me sewing the gussets in on a small handbag and in it the gussets do touch the edge of the cylinder as it stitches around. This is being done with a Cowboy CB 246 which has an up/down dog foot feed and the needle is about 6mm from the end. This is a picture of it showing the needle distance and a new throat plate I am working on for stitching some bulky handles that you can see in the above video. In the video I have used a 69 Adler but I wanted the more positive feed the CB 246 can give. It works good and video is coming soon. The CB 246 and the Techsew 2600 are pretty much the same but neither have the adjustment knob on top for raising the feet on the run like the Adler 669 does. Both machines would be probably half the price though and can have the feet adjusted from the back to lift higher if needed just not practical on the run. The Tecsew 4800 or the CB 6900 (In Australia or 1341 In the USA) do have that feature but are wider at the end. 51mm as against 76mm. These 2 following pictures were kindly supplied to me by Ron from Techsew I believe - The distance of needle from the end on the last pic is about 7mm This video is one I did awhile ago showing off the CB 6900 There are a few more showing this machine in use on my video channel if that helps

He is and that is just one more good reason to buy from a reputable dealer. He also helps keep the forum here going

This video I did is a bit painful to watch but if you have not seen it already it will help you with getting it set up right - https://youtu.be/SjYI5DIzKBs With the top edge of your lining fabric I would suggest that you either cut the fabric to line up at the top with an allowance (3/8"?) for the leather outer to fold down over or fold the lining out the other way and attach it just a smigeon lower to the outer leather folded top line Like here shown below - You will find it easier to get a nice even top line fold if you use a heavy fabric stiffener as shown here attached before folding the top line Magnets attached in the middle with tabs is often used The base would be better with a stiffener in it like 3mm Texon board between the lining and outer.

They are a pain to set up with all of the changes that have to be done for sometimes 1 job. Probably not to bad if you do it often enough I suppose. I don't get any call for making up holsters and since I have set up the narrow needle plate set I have not had to take them out for anything in the last couple of years now. Do you need the holster plate to do holsters or does the narrow needle plate allow you to do with them?

Good thing is generally most sewing machine oil does not leave any marks on leather after it dries out absorbs or whatever. To skip a good oiling practice is not a good idea especially if you think that 6 years between is alright . I do agree but I will add that to the best of my knowledge here in Australia the machines are checked and adjusted if need be before they go out to the customers. The shim for aiding in getting the back stitch length correct is more of a recent addition on these machines and I believe it is provided so as to make it easier for the customer to do it them selves if things move out of place over time. It is a fairly difficult procedure to explain and show all the steps involved to the average person and they can end up creating more of a problem if they do it wrongly. I do believe it would be a good idea to add into the dealers manuals and or video library an explanation on how to use the shim if ever needed so I think I will try and put something together for the dealers to use if they want. The dealers look after me pretty good over here so it will help me pay back some. (They sent me a new drop down guide and stainless steel flat table top attachment today for the CB4500 to test and try)

Had one come in to be retimed last week was getting that way. They had not oiled the hook for 6 years among a whole lot of other parts. Good thing that the parts are able to be replaced still. Yes they had a manual ...just did not think unless something was wrong they would needed to look at it.

You worry to much. The bushing is there for the shaft to run in not for the hook in any way. Even if you ground it on an angle and did a butchers job it would not matter as long as you get the clearance your looking for. It should not be touching the bush anyway.

Why not just sand a little off the back of the hook now you have it off?

Very good point there @Wizcrafts No accounting for experience and thank God and you we have this forum to help and gain assistance with these issues these days. Might have to have a look for some good instructions on loosening the spring pressure on the check spring yet. Lets hope not for now. Good to hear. Now tell me ...can you see any reason to change back to the standard set? I have not yet myself. I get messages nearly every day asking me how much the narrow foot needle plate set costs and I will take this opportunity to say that due to different costs of postage around the world it differs but as most sell into the USA the cost all up is $110 US anywhere there. If you are after a set you can pm me on here and please leave me your full postal details and an email to send the invoice to and I will get back to you normally with in 24 hours or sooner.

Posted yesterday Zachary. The smallest leather point needle be it 794x4 Dia or Lr or S will only go down in size to 23. Anything less will be a fabric round point needle. If the leather is soft/spongy then it can be easy with a fabric needle for the thread to miss the hook due to the elastic nature of that leather. Try using the size 23 needle with the #92 thread instead as the holes don't show much on soft stuff generally. The tension will need to back out a few turn on top. With these very long needles a fine needle is super easy to deflect away from the hook with anything but the most practised hands doing the job. The hook spacing from the needle is generally set up for the larger needles and if you want to stick with the smaller threads then you may want to get a fine shim spacer that moves the hook closer to the needle. Ask the seller there first and if no luck get back to us. I am fairly sure Jess has some in stock. Question......are you using an open toe centre foot?

Thank you @Constabulary that helps a lot. Yes I did remove the 2 screws that hold the bar 97730 in place among others. I think I am going to have to find a replacement arm 97729. The 3 pins on it allow the whole set up to move enough for the feet to collide. Probably going to be at that unobtainable place I think. Thanks again . Sorry for hijacking your thread @shadowryder. . I should have started a 132 K6 post of my own.

@Constabulary here is a couple of pictures of the areas where I think something may be missing. Would it possible to take a picture for me to see on yours?

Glad to hear good news.

Thanks @Constabulary. The machine is here now and the most recent owner seems to have no idea what oil is and what it does. BAD wear on a lot of the wear pins. Late now so I will load a few pictures tomorrow. I think that may be a part missing as well. Oh and yeah the centre foot after a good struggle getting it off turns out to be some piping foot. Lots of wear marks on it from rubbing the other foot.

Hi @Wizcrafts Are all the 132 K6 machines walking foot models? I am just doing some homework on it as I have one coming in for repair today. Looks like in a move they may have bent the outer presser bar in enough to touch the inner foot which in turn leads to the odd miss stitch. Only dealing with pics and vids as yet. The metal shavings on the top of the presser foot note.The 10 on the side is what is throwing me at the moment. Broken thread guide before needle as well by the look in above pic.-

Lighter spring pressure (the hook thing on the side) will let the leather push the feed stone down more easily so in fact it should skive out more. That could mean that you may then need to raise the presser foot up so as to not take out too much when you run the leather through. You could do all that but you should be able to see by eye fairly easily as in the picture of mine compared to yours above. If it gets too close to the bell with the feed running you should hear it quite easily. If you let it do that too much it will ruin the edge of your bell and the leather will always want to dive in and cut holes in your job. That said I often will let it touch very very lightly for a couple of seconds if I am cleaning up a heavy burr after a heavy sharpening. Crocodile has bones in it sometimes around the flank areas and that can take a good chip out of the bell edge which then takes a fair bit to sharpen back to level again. I am not sure if your edge is sharp or not but as I said do a video of the leather running through and I may be able to advise from there. A bell is NOT sharp if the leather wants to pull back away from you when it is being fed through. With soft leather if you push it up against a blunt bell or a bad presser foot or too tight a spring presser it will concertina up and that makes it chop out hollows and holes.

A video of you prior to feeding and then feeding in some leather would help. For now I think that your feed stone is too lowly angled at the front. Your presser foot is angled down too much so that it cuts in a hollow more so than the outer edge. Your presser foot has been shaved and perhaps not polished enough. First up here is an edited picture of your leather sample above This picture shows that your feed stone has too much gap at the front - Mine for you to compare - Showing what to adjust- turn front knob clockwise firstly in your case.

I am with you on this mostly but I have to say this new idea for holding my bobbins I am very happy with. I have done a few 3D printed bobbin holders but I don't like them on my table top either and with different machines I have in the past had to get loaded bobbins from different machines. This one gives me 19 pairs (38 total) of bobbins hung conveniently close and easily moved from one machine to another. Taint pretty being wood and nails but here it tis - Hangs on the thread stand.

I have decided to add this bit of info in now due to a few occasions that I have had to post it in other locations. You do not have to move your bell back and forth to sharpen you need to adjust the sharpening stone location. With a 12mm spanner you can loosen the bolt that allows the sharpening stone shaft to be moved in or out as in this picture below. Note the red arrow shows where you can see the shaft. Move it in or out as above until you get more of a full across the edge sharpen on your bell edge. I recommend for medium to soft leather a gap of .3mm from the bell edge to the presser foot. This cardboard note book cover is .3mm thick For hard or thicker leathers it is best to move the bell back to around .5mm and for very thin skiving on soft leathers move it in to about .2mm. For most skiving you should end up with around a 4mm bevel as shown below.

First up I am thinking that your sharpening stone is not properly clean. If you have a look in this post I did recently you will see a link to a video I have done showing the sharpening process. You will see in that how there should be a fair amount more clean sparks coming off as the blade is sharpened. Next up - You do not have to move your bell back and forth to sharpen you need to adjust the sharpening stone location. With a 12mm spanner you can loosen the bolt that allows the sharpening stone shaft to be moved in or out as in this picture below. Note the red arrow shows where you can see the shaft. I suspect yours is adjusted way back as shown here - (move it out as above until you get more of a full across the edge sharpen) I recommend for medium to soft leather a gap of .3mm from the bell edge to the presser foot. This cardboard note book cover is .3mm thick For most skiving you should end up with around a 4mm bevel as shown below. Be VERY careful not to let that rubber feed to ever touch the bell edge with it going as you will most likely wreck it.

Could be right there. Hope I reach that status before I get to my 70's though.