RockyAussie

This video by @Uwe has been very helpful to me and may be good here. Note that he has a few other relevant vids on his channel as well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZT3AVgj_HLI

The picture does not show the rivet type very clearly but on many a centre punch hammered into the middle will normally give you some clearance to cut at with side cutters or nail removing pincers.

Don"t know if this will help but I had the same problem and they are basically they same machine I believe.

SHeeesh mate....all ya need is a little laser and some masking tape......and a 3dprinter and ya own font of course. Easy - https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/82905-is-there-a-font-for-ivan-alphabet-stamp-set-8132-00/ and maybe....never mind

Since its important and all that - normally 6 packs and sometimes slabs (cartons) and sometimes kegs. The common stubby is 375ml but a little research showed me the following - Aussie population at present about 25 million. How much beer do Aussies drink? There were approximately 186 million litres of pure alcohol available for consumption in Australia in 2016-17. This comprised approximately 73 million litres of beer, 71 million litres of wine, 24 million litres of spirits, 11 million litres of RTDs, and 6 million litres of cider. Oh and we call them stubby coolers and the yanks call em koozie's . BTW - some of the shiela's whoops.... I mean ladies, here reckon they like blokes (Men) with 6 packs. I reckon why a 6 pac when you can have a whole keg instead?

Yeah same here. Guess 20 square feet sounds better than 1.85 sqm . Its them damn ounces that get me most.

As Tom said. Poke ya head out from behind that pine tree in Mississippi and find a hardware store. Great things there await ye

I do quite a lot of edge painting but the answer depends on the thickness and stiffness of the leather. Once you get much thicker than 2mm you often start to get a split line in the paint that either has to be sanded out or ironed in or a bit of both. A bevelled edge gives the advantage of keeping the paint thickness build up into the middle and therefore less of a split line. You can see one example of how I do bevelling on belts in this video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zY5wWvQvd1k In this vid you can see one of the ways I apply the edge coating on these belts.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UiQIHqY5lwk And in this one I am doing a more by hand method - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cR5nUxrrjec Just a tip - do NOT make your edges too smooth before applying the edge paint or you will find out that it can be peeled off in one big long strip as well. A sanded finish is best.

Edge coat only I reckon. Should make up some nice motorcycle tool bags and such if edge coat is a no go for you.

If you check my you tube channel here there is a few skiving ones that you might want to see. I hope to get another one loaded this weekend. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1yxXV09EYHk&t=147s If you check my web page you can see the type of wallets and totes and other stuff I make as well. I only mention this as your idea of bags and wallets etc may differ from my own in the type of equipment required. A look in my profile in the about me section will also show a lot of stuff that I make not shown on my website. Don't hesitate to ask anything as doing your homework first is always a very good idea.

They not that good mate, but you've gone and motivated me a bit now so have a look next week maybe. This stuff is all a bit academic for me but isn't a referral the same as an add really? I was sort of hoping that Jeff was getting something for those links in his sig as I was wondering about whether or not to look for any $$$$ myself in that area. You know like it might help pay to make a few worthwhile no BS vids. I don't know much about this bandwidth stuff but I would have thought Joanna would have said something or stopped it if she didn't like it. I might have to have a talk with her as I might be just adding some expense or other that I could be avoiding. P.S. Any body reading this please support this site by being a proud contributor and know that we all gain something from what this site gives back to us. Brian

Good stuff there toxo, that gives an idea of the amount of leather$ one would need for such a project.

Hey Rick, I am curious as to whether a top and bottom feed roller machine is good for "Fine" leather work. As far as I know they are for handling the thicker tougher leathers more so. I run a roller foot on top of mine mostly but it is not a feeding roller. Fine leathers (garment/upholstery)do tend to stick to the bottom feed roller more often and come back up to wreck your job so I will also recommend getting one with a suction (aspirator).TechSew and Campbell Randall have them and the latter shows a good parts supply on their website.

Marvellous looking bag there @toxo and looking at your work I think and hope to be seeing more in the future. A few more of the steps shown would be great to see as well.

Thanks for the thought ....I will try and see if I can get some of that local. Shame I wasn't clever enough to check the ring boxes as they were being printed but I guess it helped me see some more of the potential of these little motors. For a 3/4 hp motor with variable speed settings and mounting equipment that allows such a wide variety of positioning and for under a $100au on ebay. Thanks @noobleather . Note that the face plate has 4 threaded screw holes (4mm) already tapped and waiting for mounting to tables or whatever... I'm thinking of making up a new double sided belt sander with them sometime soon. This one below I did with large bench grinder motors many years back and I want one that can sand on the under edge at the same pass. Gotta check one to destruction first though.

Sorry to say I think you have to remove and try as I said.

I stuffed up.. In a rush trying to get another 100 odd ring boxes done I didn't notice that my new filament in the 3d printer melted a little easier than the previous lot. For any who have not seen the post on "How I make Wedding ring boxes" check it out.- Anyway the result is I got over 200 hundred boxes that are splayed oversize where they touch the hot plate. This pic shows what I mean I think- Sanding them all down by hand with my normal clean up tool was going to take at least a couple of days not to mention a lot of Oh golly's and gosh darn its. I got to thinking about a spare sewing machine that I recently put on a servo motor and if I could do something with it. I didn't want to totally dismantle it or spend too much time on it either so I just clamped it to the side of the machine as shown. Once I got the pulley off, I saw that it had a key way so I decided I'd just print up a holder for the ring cup. One piece so I could get it down to sit on the bearing and another piece to go on top and have enough room to bolt down. 1/2 hour to draw and 1/2 your to print. Note: that I used some bicycle inner tube to have some method to apply outward pressure and some masking tape to get the cups on and off quickly and easily. Using the edge of a steel ruler it shaved the lip of nice and easy A little sanding and she is BEAUTIFULLL I am sure that these could be used very nicely as vertically or horizontally mounted burnishers, sanders, transporters and just a whole big heap of other stuff. If you've done anything else with one of these motors please feel free to put them up on here. Brian

Could be a bit of loose top grain there but I suspect that your strip is too thick. Around 1mm or less would be better. Also when attaching this type of thing when it has to be folded a general rule of thumb is to bend it as you attach it to around 90 degrees. Your strip would be maybe 3mm shorter in length + -. Easier to cut it after though.

Once the drawing file is done and from a stl file into the G code, its pretty much turn the printer on and go on working on other stuff. I do have a plastic extruder that took a LOT of work time to lathe up the moulds for these bangles and they are quicker to do in time but maybe not in the labour cost. BTW if you get into the 3d print stuff the hangers holding the bangles in the third picture are something I came up with to make it easier to get an individual bangle or bag on and off without taking off a whole lot. Here you can see if you want to get to a bag on the inside you have to remove all the outer ones first. I had to come up with a something to put in a shop so this was my answer.

Just in case it helps some. As you would have found out I think it can be difficult to sand around the edges whilst its round. What I found in the end to be quicker and to get the more oval wrist shape is to cut the pipe into lengths to get the width then cut into the side (65mm pvc vent pipe I think) I then procede to heat them up with a hot air gun and flatten them right out straight and allow them to cool of under a flat slab. They are then easy to shape and chamfer etc. I found a piece of steel pipe and based into an oval shape and from there I heat the pvc pipe again and bring it into shape. After that I attach foam and leather and lining etc. Now its easier to just 3d print them in pla. I have not done the watch band as such but here is the open back bangle shape. I think the weight of the watch may just beat you on this but you'll never know lessen ya try Might be able to mix the ideas a bit

Safety first. Beer comes after ya get it down ...Right.. P.S. if you ever get to painting the barrels in that heat paint and dry it in the oven Remember that the liners drop out at a certain temperature and can make a memorable sound that you will be reminded of for years and years. If you got a wife that thinks them stoves are only for cooking that is.

So I AM not the only one guilty of working on my bike in the lounge room . Did a total rebuild on one 2 floors up once. Nice side bag and extra good for your first leather work.

In my experience you would best look at your local buckle suppliers range. Here in Australia 30mm has a very wide range for dress belts which can often be a clip on style and sometimes reversible. 38mm(1 1/2") is very common but more for the casual jeans type wear. 32mm (1 1/4") is the next most common width range and can go suit dress or casual and I do a lot in 35mm but that size range is a lot less available.

All of the card pockets that get put together in our wallets get a second cut before the edge strip goes on them and that gets them exactly straight and is done on average less than 30 seconds per section. Same with edged business card holders as shown below, most things get cut out 2.5mm oversize then attached together after skiving and gluing then second cut which then requires very little sanding before edging is applied. This process is done on about 90% of the products we make including belts except there the second cut is through a combining/cutting machine. This is the reason I believe that a clicker press is one of the most essential pieces of equipment that someone looking at getting into competitive manufacturing can have. I could not imagine how much time and wasted effort would be spent trying to make that key tag all perfectly line up and be made ready to edge. We get orders for them in the hundreds with whatever logo they want and the timing is not much more than you see in that video. This is the sort of thing that made me think there would have been a little more interest in seeing how these products get made but unfortunately the costs to produce them would cost way more than I could hope to get back.. Gotta find some other way of doing it I guess.