RockyAussie

I would try rotating the bar around (without the foot on) and see if you get any different behaviour first. Rolling the bar on some glass should also give you some idea if straight. If you think it looks alright then it must be a bent connecting arm I guess.

The diameter of the bearing? I just measured and it is 9.7mm.

Yes that is it. My bearing on the 69 does not move left and right as does yours. On page 14 in this service manual the bearing part number 4 is firmly bolted with no movement other than rotation. http://www2.duerkopp-adler.com/export/sites/duerkoppadler/commons/download/public/69/S_69-373_69-373H_EN.pdf

The pfaff does not have such an adjustment as the Adler but can still be made to do it. They are a way tighter fit at that point where the bar goes up into the tube. Note on this one I have raised the tube higher than standard to get less foot pressure marks.

No I mean the adjustment thing on top. You undo the lock nut in order to tighten or loosen the presser foot pressure. The presser bar goes up into that tube. I doubt that, that would be bent as I dont think it is all that tight of a fit there.

I have been looking at my 69-372 for a good while now and although I found 3 hornets nest in it, it does not make any similar sound. I did have this problem on a Pfaff 335 I think and the answer was that the back presser bar was lightly bent. On that machine I found I had to find a loose spot in the adjustment of the presser tension tube and I was able to get away with that. I would think it is possible that your presser bar is bent or the top tube has been bashed or more likely the bottom of the bar at the foot has been bashed. I did notice in your first video 23seconds in ,that the appeared to be some heavy scouring on the back of the presser shaft.

That is truly some very nice work there @Rolandranch.

Fantastic news and I must add a big thank you to @Techsew RonRon for reinforcing the fact that buying from a local reputable dealer is a buyers best bet. I love the large range that TechSew has on offer and have often considered whether to upgrade with them and I think that this might just give me the green light to do so.

You may not have seen this post but if not ...I think it may help. And another -

Yes they can do that very well but they need to be used in a suitable press to hold the letters. The metal is not as hard as brass and would not take any hammering down for very long. The heat that the presses apply to the letters makes for some very nice results on many leathers when done without the use of foils.

The most common one I make is 1" where you show but that is partly because I like to stitch right across at the bottom. Others that stop and start either side will generally be 3/4" and sometimes a bit less. If they are going to be a bit thick then 1" will be better for sure.

I don't think so. Perhaps once the feet are on and the machine in place it will sit better but check and make sure that all bolts are tightened down well before the machine goes in. Could you show a picture of the table (front on) once the feet are installed?

I am sorry to say that a look at Techsew's shipping and billing terms down the bottom says it all. They can not make a insurance claim once you have signed the no damage part. http://www.techsew.com/shipping-policy I would get a new leg rather than try and fix it or you will ever remember it every time it catches your eye. To have a new machine should be a rewarding experience and not be marred by something like this. You may at times want to get parts from them and even some sort of service help and keeping your calm is sometimes for the better latter on.

I agree. That is soooo true. Absolutely FANTASTIC in every way.

No after some glue is applied at the base inside I just curve the stiffener and push it down and in. The top folded edge is left until after the lining is put in and then starting at the front I have stitched across and around over the gusset over onto the lid flap and around and finished back at the front. Your welcome . Brian

OK these pictures should show things a little better....the first pic shows the bag style a more to the side and this one more on to the gusset side. Note that the gusset from 1/2 way up can close up. the gusset stiffener in pink cardboard shown next to its clicking knife would have be done originally with .6mm strawboard but now I would use 1mm heel grip felt as the stiffener. This would give a less defined ridge where it presses into the gusset edge. As I said earlier the bag outside pieces are stitched together first and by using the middle markers to line up with, the gusset stiffener is glued into place correctly. The knives are made with the checked in middle lines as shown in this picture This is a picture showing all of the knives that go into the making of this little bag. The back and lid flap could be done as one but as this is for exotic leathers the smaller pieces are better to get the best feature pieces showing. One of the inside in case that helps.

I don't have any on hand but I will take a few shots of a prototype one I made and some further shots to explain better after I catch up on some of this work today.

Yes that is correct. Note where I said that the stiffener for the gusset area is put in after the stitching and I have to admit that i have to sort of walk the stitching around sideways a bit on 3 or 4 stitches as well. This is not to hard with my machine as it has a variostop motor where it enables me to lift the foot enough to step sideways and not loose my thread tension in the process. Make sure that your thread tension discs don't open when using your foot or knee lift. This is the machine I would have used in the making and it is a Pfaff 331 but a 335 walking foot type could do it as well.

You are right ....they can be tricky to impossible to do on a normal cylinder machine. If the pattern is big enough and the gussets can flare outward enough it is not too bad. If they are like the little one i make rarely (about 6 across) as in the picture below several steps are necessary. Firstly the gussets are only stiffened after the outer sections are sewn. On the second side it can sometimes be easier to start 1/4 way down the bag from the top in order to allow room for the cylinder arm to have room to go into the opening at the finish. It then can be easier to manoeuvre the bag to do the top down start. Notice in your picture that the bag has a separate lining and the stiff look to it can be deceptive, it is probably quite pliable. Some sewing machines like a patching machine would do it easily but they don't do a very nice job normally and some like this side wall stitching machine may be an easier way as well. There is a member @robinindustry that has a variety of these machines for sale out of China. On the second page in this earlier post you can see a video of a sidewall stitcher in action. Follow that back on the you tube and more can be seen as well.

I don't know as I have never tried it . The sewing machine oil I use if it drips on the leather it dries without leaving any signs ...so I just stick with that.

Hey Bob I don't know if it is normally done but I drop a few drops of oil on mine every 12 months or so and I would do it from the start myself.

OK the best I could find online from Australia post is a 5 kilo satchel for around $18.00 + - and the weight is an average of .14kilo per strip. By my reckoning that is about 35 strips. That is about 1.4m+ leather split in total. Packing them into boxes is the best but as to what weight and size is best to get them to you I cant say. If you can think of anything better please let me know. Regards Brian

I would be surprised if they were not there. Check the No 13 felts in this pdf pic extracted from a Cowboy manual Tension Post Components.pdf

Well done and thank you for sharing with us all.

What @mikesc said is correct and I cant really give you an easy answer without practically writing a book on the subject. The width of the belly will generally give you an estimate of the length of the crocodile (average around 5'long 38cm across the belly) They don't run them through the normal measuring machines and therefore I would hazard a guess that that may be about 4 sq'. The pricing gets higher as the skin gets wider due to extra length but a second grade skin may be worth 1/2 of the value of a first grade to the farm etc. The big fashion houses that own most of the farms only want 1st grade and where I come in is converting the 2nd and 3rd grade skins into sellable products as well. The lesser grade skins are still 1st grade quality except for scratches and holes in one or 2 of the quarters of the belly. Ist grade is needed for top grade large panel handbags. I do get some 1st grades but the majority is the lesser grade skins but as to what they cost is not something that I usually need to know about that much. Sorry that I cant make it any clearer than that.