Handstitched

G'Day, I have an old-ish USM Hytronic 20 T press. I cant use it ...yet*. Its been sitting in my workshop for many years . It does work, I've seen it work at the sellers house, but he had 3ph.. But while its sitting there collecting dust, although I do dust it occasionally, I have been giving the seal on the hydraulic ram at the back an occasional squirt with some WD-40 to hopefully stop the seal from drying out as its get pretty warm during summer. Is this a good idea? or is it necessary at all ? I have much to learn about these machines . *Theres no 3ph in my street. So when I win lotto, I'll buy a serious kick-a**se 3 ph generator to run it Thanks, HS

HaloJones nailed it. Bevel the outline . Thats something I often do , its a bit fiddly, but effective .Dying or painting them in a prominent and contrasting colour will help too . HS

Ok , on the one hand I would use 5-6mm harness, thats what I use on stirrup straps etc. , something that takes the weight of an adult, however, I'd be very worried about the liability . So why did they go out of business? hope it wasn't a liability issue? HS

@HondoMan I had a similar issue with some buffalo hides, 5- 6mm , dyed black . I got them cheap , ' on special' . I had a such a difficult time sealing the leather when making belts, dog collars etc. The black kept coming through. Every sealer I used didn't work . So, I ordered some lacquer from NSW ( Australia) , an equivalent to ' Neat-Lac' . But, because of ' Dangerous Goods' laws it couldn't be transported by air , road transport was too costly, more than the product was worth. So , much experimenting later, I now use a water based varnish I got from my local hardware shop . Its mainly used for wood etc. Its not the ' be all & end all' , but it works, and it flexible . And as its water based, it dries quick . I just had to think outside the square . HS

I'm going to feel like the odd one out here, but I have never used trag, or any edge kote of any kind. After I have dyed the belt or whatever, and , while its still slightly damp, I just use a slicker ,( of which is just a component from a roller door ) and use the wood handle one of my bevellers to finish , and seal as normal , comes up a treat and nothing rubs off If I think about it, I'll take a pic of a belt I'm currently working on . HS

I know this is a different machine,but similar issue with voltages, I do have a USM 20 T Hyptronic press,but its 3Ph, I can't use it . We dont have 3 phase anywhere in the street . I also considered a converter, but, the power going to my workshop comes from the house, its 10A ( 240v) , and the converter requires 15A ( 240v Australia) . The next option is to have 15A installed in the workshop at great expense, with no guarantee of success . Its the ' start up' that will draw the most current as the fly wheel inside the machine is massive and very heavy, and I don't think a converter will cut it. I was once quoted over $ 1000- to change the motor to single ph. I'm thinking the same. I'll just buy a cheap 3 ph generator, when I win Lotto HS

@oyvindbl You have a great selection of machines there, but I think the vote is unanimous Keep them all I would. Otherwise whichever machine you sell could well be the one you need in the future ....and you'd kick yourself " DOH !!! " And, since they belonged to your Mother, if it was me personally, they would also have sentimental value , which is priceless. HS

I have had a look around, but no luck. ' Vintage tools' did have one, but it was sold. https://www.vintagetools.net/craftool-co-usa-no-z952-bucking-horse-and-rider-874n No harm in contacting them though, they may have contacts. I do have one, but its not for sale, sorry. Good luck in your search, HS

We all seem to have our own techniques on making belts. Everything I have learnt is self taught, but also with some help from ' Al Stohlman' . On my belts, I use a template to mark the holes, so from the tip of the belt to the first hole is 100mm , the holes are 30mm apart, but the measurement is taken from the 3rd hole, or centre hole, as per Al Stohlmans instructions Works just fine. HS

It looks well used so it could just be a natural ' patina' from general wear & tear. HS

Sorry to hear about the barn fire, hope no-one was hurt . Never knew about the onion tip, I'll remember that I also wonder if lemon juice & bi-carb soda, or just bi-carb will help?Thats known for absorbing smells. My ' good ol' Mum' used bi-carb for many uses. HS

I keep looking at those photos of the leather goods business. So, where do you start the recovery? Well, after a damn good cry, , firstly I would try save the tools, a very long painful and arduous task of picking through the wreckage to find them . Hopefully, the stamping tools, 3D's etc. survived, they can be restored . The tools with wood handles, the wood handles can be replaced. The sewing machines? We've seen ' boat anchors' restored before, so there is hope, hoping the casings aren't warped or cracked, same goes for any manual presses etc. Theres always hope. HS

@Rockoboy Your are exactly right. Fire breaks are compulsory in the Wheatbelt( and many other places) for those that have acreage . They have to be 1.5 mtrs wide, but that varies from one council to another. But I make them 2-3 times that width. Also slashing is compulsory for 5 acres & under. We have much more than that, and although its not compulsory for me to slash, I do it anyway for my own peace of mind, we also burn off & prune branches etc. during cooler months, and spray, but thats still no guarantee that we'll be safe, its just reduces the risk. But one '" saving grace'", perhaps, is that we don't have tall gum trees anywhere near the house, where so many owners do. HS

Sadly, we do have a lot in common when it comes to disasters, but , thankfully, including people & communities from all over the country getting together to help each other during times of disaster. @Bert51 Our PM just got a BIG kick up the butt yesterday, o'h dear ! HS

Just seen this in the news, so heart braking Out of the hundreds of homes & businesses that have been lost due to the bush fires, sadly, this is one of them. https://www.abc.net.au/news/2020-01-01/roman-leathergoods-store-in-mogo-before-the-nye-bushfires-1/11836268 https://www.abc.net.au/news/2020-01-01/burnt-remains-of-the-roman-leathergoods-store-in-mogo-after-the/11836272 And things aren't getting any better. The entire south east cost in Victoria & NSW is ablaze. We've been quite lucky where I am ( Central Wheatbelt WA) , but we're always on the alert. HS

Well , the bonded nylon threads, or poly/cotton 277 threads are what I use on ' Brutus' . my saddle machine . Waxed threads are what I use for hand stitching. I could do it the ' ye olde fashioned way' by waxing the thread by hand....but I'm lazy so I buy waxed threads I also use .8mm ' Mox ' ( Aust.) thread, its a waxed woven thread, super duper strong too . As for ' neon' threads, I had a quick look, what is call neon thread, I call ' hi-vis' or fluorescent threads . Amazon in UK have them I think. Hope this helps, HS

This is an interesting video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XdEUOzERo5M I got stoned just watching that HS

G'Day, I normally align them by sight with a ruler and some planning, but this may help. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/60980-best-way-to-align-letter-stamps/ HS

@chrisash Thank you very much. Sadly extreme heat & severe bush fires are a part of life downunder, but this year its so much worse , and the arrogance of our PM is only adding insult to injury to those that have lost everything . But thank you so much. Lets all hope that 2020 is a much better year for all of us. Best Wishes, HS

G'Day, It took a little while for me to get the tension just right on my machine when I first got it, but now its just perfect . I use 180/24 needles with 277 M10 thread . Perhaps check the tension , thread and needle size ? HS

At this point in time, in Oz, we are experiencing some of the worst/extreme weather temps in a long time, 45- 50+ deg C . ( around 113- 123+ F in your lingo) and Oz is ablaze. Right now, my workshop is in the dark , all my leathers are covered up, all my threads etc. are stored away....in the dark away from heat as much as possible. The curtains are closed. My machines are covered up. So I guess it depends where you are. Sorry to be a bit dramatic, but its a scary time for us right now. HS

I keep all my hand sewing threads in my top drawer next to my tooling bench for easy access , along with all my h/s needles, machine needles etc. away from any heat. I also keep my machine threads in another drawer( an old filing cabinet) away from heat , sun & dust etc. HS

G'Day and welcome to the world of leather This is one question that has been asked countless times on here, and it can be a daunting choice to make . It all depends on what type of leather you're going to sew, budget etc. Just do a little bit of research on here. "Best type of machine" etc. in the sewing machines thread . HS

If my machine makes any type of strange noise, I start to sweat!! It did once and all it was , was a blunt needle. Replace the needle, all fixed. But wouldn't have thought that such a brute of a machine would be affected by a blunt needle, I was so wrong. HS

@dikman Well, congratulations A'h yes, I remember when.......I got a call from our local courier ( here in the central wheatbelt of WA) telling me that my new toy ( Q Stitch Colt) had arrived " could you pick it up? he said ....." no, I paid for delivery" .......you're the *****g courier YOU deliver!!" I said . The lazy **ick !! It arrived....eventually , it took 3 of us to offload from the ute, it was so heavy. And like you, I couldn't wait to get sewing. My instructions were also a little thin on detail. I have no idea what that extra piece of metal is. It looks like a shim or ...something, but at the same time it looks familiar. The wood from the crate was turned into shelving supports I hope you have many happy years of sewing. HS