Stetson912

Haha awesome

Looks like a good way to use up scraps you can't really do much with, it doesn't have to look real pretty or be straight for that matter. and if it's big enough to stuff with catnip I'm sure it'll be used a lot... I'll have to try this now haha

I think so, I like the turned and bound edges and how they look but, it's probably not feasible here

You could fill the 'head' with catnip too

Yeah I understand that. The bag isn't really coming out how I hoped. But I'll still probably finish it. This is the panel. It isn't too drastic but still significant. I thing a lining how I want would bunch up and wrinkle. I might just glue down some other lining material to the panels if I can't figure anything else out Thanks!

I know what you mean. The clean gradient patina finish people get on some products is amazing. These days it's mostly done with an airbrush. Wedgetail on this forum made an airbrush video that I'll link for you. Obviously this requires equipment and a set up whereas the traditional techniques wouldn't. I would agree with Mattsbagger as well, Stohlman's books are always good and informative.

Hmmm, I've never used anything real waxy like that. Do you have a small scrap piece of each type? What adhesive are you using? You could use a scrap of each leather and just test it out gluing them together. It may take a few coats of adhesive to work too. Again I don't have any experience with this leather but just my thoughts.

I'm hand stitching so it will be stitched from the outside only along the top of the bag. I'm going to try a single gusset but it may be a 3 piece gusset. Im going to welt the bag as well and turn it. My concern is that I will get wrinkles at the top in the lining because of the curve of the bag. Or that the curve won't lend itself u to being turned or bound. The edges I want bound, So I would do a turned lining if I could get away with it. But I could also do a drop in with bound edges too. I may add a few pockets too.

I've posted on other parts of the forum but haven't had any ideas come my way. So I thought I might try this section too. I'm trying to figure out the best way to line a bag that is this shape. I don't know if a turned lining would work, or if a drop in lining would be better? I'm worried the shape won't lend well to either of these and I may have to bind the edge a different way. Here is the front panel. Thanks!

I'd recommend ventilation. The good dyes like driving oil dyes and such do smell and aren't good to breathe. You could try ecoflo dyes and waterstains. It's just my preference and opinion that I don't really care for them. The dyes aren't bad I just prefer feibings. Also, if you use contact cement it's good to have ventilation. That is nasty stuff. I can't remember the name of it but there is a water based cement that Lisa Sorrell uses and sells. You may want to check it out.

I'm in the process of making a bag and have the front and back panels dyed and got to thinking of the liner o want in it. I'm going to use a garment leather for this and was wondering how to attach it. The bag shape has a "dip" in the middle of the front and back panels and I'm wondering if a drop in liner would work around that curve. Or if I can bind a drop in liner or if I can even do a turned lining. I hope I can pick your brains for ideas on how to do this thanks.

I love Bruce grants encyclopedia. I think if anyone wants to start to learn how to braid they should pick that up. Ron Edwards is great too, I have a few of his whip making books. I use paracord for my braiding and plaiting but I mY have to invest in lace or kangaroo, I've been wanting to make a leather whip haha. The lead looks great motocouture

Not sure what leather is used in baseballs or if it's even leather anymore. Maybe some heat? Like a low iron or something and then placing it under some old text books.... Or, if you really mean business and either have or know someone who has a hydraulic press.... Hehehe

I'm making a bag. I posted this in the critique section as well but thought I would put it here for some more input. I can trace and follow a pattern but when it comes to pear shading and decorative cuts I'm at a loss. This is 5/6 oz tandy leather and I used a Barry king knife with thin 3/8" blade. The leather probably isn't ideal but I think the majority of issues are because I'm not very good haha. Any resources or tips that may help me improve are very welcome thanks!

If you have a Dremel they make router bits for them. Might work a lot faster haha. Not sure if you need any attachments or what not though.

I agree with motocouture, see if you can get a hold of some of Ron Edwards books. Also, I believe David Morgan has a book on leather braiding. And there is always the famed "Encyclopedia of leather and rawhide braiding" by Bruce grant which has a plethora of knowledge in it, everything from flat and round braids to turksheads and other projects. As for that particular "triangle" shape, it is an Australian technique. You actually begin the belt at the end and finish at the buckle. This is covered in all of the literature described but you can also try and Google "starting Australian flat braids" and see what that gets you.

So you want to inlay leather with chain maile much the same way a woodworker would inlay a piece of wood with another? Hmm, sounds interesting. What if you used a French skiver to hollow out the square? Perhaps even chisels could work. If its a simple shape I think the French skiver would work best

Awesome!

56 videos is what YouTube says.. you were just being modest! Haha. I've subscribed to your channel. Thanks for the information!

Thanks madmax, I ordered the 3/8" thick and thin to try em out. I don't do a ton of tooling but if I end up doing more then I probably will invest in more knives. I just need a good one to start with to replace the Tandy ones I have. The blades just don't cut it.... Hehe

Thats a helpful video @gmace99, thanks for sharing. Do you have a YouTube channel?

Haha, we all do it. Just takes practice. If you just take your time and try and do every step of your project the best you can and know how to do, you'll improve. And loads of people here are willing to help too.

Thanks oltoot, I ordered my knife today and got one of each of the 3/8" blade. I'm thinking I'll like the thicker blade better than the thinner one but I figured it wouldn't hurt to just try em both out to see which I like. And a spare blade is good to have. I found a few threads on here dealing with the subject and most people recommend the thicker 3/8" blade. So now I'm impatiently awaiting my new toy haha.

I think so. It'll make a nice sturdy holster

Dunluce, check Ian atkinson a videos on YouTube. He has a 15minute video that shows him making a turned edge wallet. It isn't instructional but you can still learn from it. He also has a video on edge turnings and bindings which is a great video too. He uses a "safety" beveler for skiving so that aspect he may not be able to help with. However, Lisa Sorrell has a short snipit on YouTube as well about skiving knives and skiving which may also be beneficial. Cheers