Rockoboy

These stamps are similar to (if not exactly the same as) Tandy Classic Western Font Letter Stamps #8131 ... I think that number is correct, but they are widely available. Priced from around $50USD to $85USD on eBay.

Welcome to the forum. A location and maybe a name will possibly help to get some answers, especially when asking for local knowledge or buying and selling, which I understand you're not, but it's more friendly anyway. There is a pinned post at the top of the "How do I do that" index page. Its a great article on finishing edges written by one of the best. Give that a look. Also, only the 'Submit Reply' button once to make a post. It will happen, it just takes some time.

Most of my work to date, has been pouches for my tools, a cover for a round knife etc. Its only for me, so the imperfections do not matter. I do have on my bench at the moment, a dog collar for a friends dog. I am still trying to get my head around antique, oils, dyes and finishes. I am hoping to get it finished this week. Pics to follow. I am not exactly sure on navigating around the site, I just cruise in a and check out everything.

That looks excellent. I would be happy if I could do half as good.

I am guessing that would depend on how the leather was sealed before the staining happened and most importantly, what the stain was caused by. Ordinarily, I would expect you would have a better outcome if you could reduce the staining as much as possible, but as I already suggested, maybe nothing will work. Maybe take it to have it accessed by a professional, even if you want to sort it by yourself. At least you will have an indication of whether or not its possible..

The whole thing looks excellent. Very neat and tidy.

At the moment, I only have brush or dauber to apply any finishes. Any method better than the other? What about dipping if I can get the right size and shape container? Thank you @fredk for your info.

Fishing down here can be excellent at times. Depends on the time of year, what you are chasing, the weather. There is nothing like having a long white sandy beach all to yourself, with 100 tonne of great sportfish like the Australian Salmon, all trying to be the 1st to eat your lure! I have seen it a few times, heard about it lots more. Besides the salmon, there are so many other pelagics and demersals that are great in a fry pan. The best thing has to be the fact that our fisheries are so under utilised and so well managed

Thank you @Mattsbagger and @Tugadude. I have tried a small sample on some scrap, but any insights are also helpful. Other than this website and asking a couple of friends when I can, I have no easy way of getting good information. The nearest leather store that might have some idea, is at least an hour away, and I am not sure if their agenda is selling me as much as possible or assisting me.

Are the horses heads carved or painted or some other technique?

Looks pretty good. Just one thing I would change ... saddle stitch all the way. It looks like you changed between the top section inner pocket and the bottom 3/4's on the main edge. Are you going to sew around the top edge of each opening? I think it looks ok either way.

I really like the idea. Unfortunately I don't go anywhere with 2 bottles of wine ... except from my bar to my lounge room!

Your projects look really good. I like the dog collar with the cut-outs, but I would really like to get a closer look at your arm bracer. Some extra fine work there. How have you done the horse heads?

If I was making this bag, I would have made the straps go all the way under the bag and up the other side, not just stitched up the sides. I prefer to take the weight of whatever is being carried on the handles, not on the side walls of the bag. Having said that, you are doing an excellent job. I bet anybody in the market for this type of bag, would be happy to own it.

You could make a wooden copy of the blade and handle up to where the sheath with fit, and use that as a form for heat shrink tube. If you make the form over size (compared to the knife) that would give you some extra liner that could be part of a welt and/or sewn along the edge.

My uncle thought milk was getting too expensive, so he bought a cow ... but he did have a 2000 acre farm, so space was not an issue.

Totally agree. That base is a piece of art!

I bought a bit of gear on the weekend, from somebody not doing leatherwork anymore, and in the box was a litre bottle of Super Sheen. I have not tried it out on anything yet, but I am assuming its a final step in the making of a leather product? Any comments, do's or don'ts that I should be aware? Where I should/should not use it?

Well done @kyrrk. It does not matter how you have done it, you have finished with a high quality article with an excellent finish.

All of your colours look really good on that lace, and your braiding looks exceptional.

I am guessing it depends on which dye or antique is used, oil or alcohol or water based, but I have seen some recommendations on leatherworker.net for using NFO before dye is applied. Is this supposed to assist with penetration and/or even coverage, or have I entirely missed the point of the exercise? *The reason I ask is because I have a project on my bench right now, that I especially want, a good finish on and I am flying blind at the moment. There is a definite possibility of more work and/or a good recommendation from the same customer.

On the few projects I have made, I have always layered the pieces together and punched (stitching chisel or rotary punch) right through all layers, so the holes match up exactly. One item I made was so thick that my stitching chisel would go right through, so I went as far as possible, then dis-assembled the pieces and punched the pieces where the marks were not right through. I had a couple of holes out of line a little bit, on the back because I mistakenly leant the stitching chisel over a little when punching the back piece.

When you say dye, in this case do you mean antique? I think there is there a difference between dye and antique, right?

Following this post because for any thing I do know about dyes and finishing, I realise there is so much I don't know. I usually find that I have to remove (and or even out) the excess very quickly. If I am doing a larger piece, like a belt, I work in shorter areas about 8 - 10 inches long and double up over the joins to even out the coverage.

That would make it a defective product, but I guess they would have all sorts of reasons why it was customer error that caused the failure.