Rockoboy

I think decoupage is sticking pictures all over a surface, then clear coating over the top. The process I detailed above, (which I have never used, just read about) is different because you remove the paper from the surface and leave just the picture.

I may be wrong, but I believe the OP is looking for a process where a printed picture can be transferred onto a surface. I think the usual method is to apply a coat of PVA glue, Mod Podge or similar to the surface, stick the printed picture face down onto the wet adhesive. After the adhesive is dry, wet the paper a little and rub the paper so that it all comes away from the surface, leaving just the picture behind.

Ding Ding Ding! We have a winner! Apologies to @bikermutt07 for hijacking his thread.

That table sounds like a great score, price is almost irrelevant!

I agree with munky. A slightly better finish might not give you more traffic, but I think it will probably increase your visitor-to-buyer conversion rate.

As there is not a lot of weight on the hooks (screws), they are just screwed into the melamine. The screws are 5inch and 6inch. Some of the buckles are very small, so I cut off some of the screw heads to get the buckles on the hooks.

Looking good Mutt, I did something similar with my workshop wall. I was going for pegboard to hold buckles, rings, clips etc, but I could not get the hooks when I wanted them, so I used 16mm melamine and long screws for the hooks. It lets me see what I have, without searching through tackle-boxes.

I like the whole piece, but I especially like the serpentine border. I find I have limited success with borders when they come to the corner. Sometimes the stamps do not fit the corners just the way I want them to. You have nailed this one

I have never made a holster, or seen a holster in the flesh, but I think your holster would look and work better, last longer etc if the ends of the holster around the belt loops were not so close to the belt loops.

I have a renewed respect for my 31-20. Its been so long since I even powered it up, but this thread has motivated ... reminded me that I should use it more often.

I do believe you have nailed it with your small projects. The only negative with suede is IMHO, it cannot be stamped, and dyeing is difficult and quite often not required. For punching holes, I use a drive punch (hit with a hammer), rather than punch pliers. If a child is hitting ANY tool with a hammer, I use a simple tweezers setup made from thick fencing wire or thin rod, so I can keep my hands out of the strike zone. Place the leather on a piece of softwood timber to punch holes, so there is no damage to the table or bench surface or the punch. I am taking a class of thirty 10 year olds next week, for a lesson in key-tag making. To expedite things, I have pre-punched all the holes for lacing. Pics will follow.

Not too bad (AKA ... better than my 1st effort!) As @Grihm said, if you apply antique to the tooled area, but leave the rest of the leather a natural colour, that will make your design POP! As with most things, practice practice and more practice will improve your end result. Google "swivel knife practice". There's a few youtube channels that have an opinion or 2.

Nope. Repairs not possible. Just chuck it away.

To the best of my knowledge, anything that is finished as in chrome tanned, dyed leather or leather that is sealed in any way, the only real option is heat embossing or gold/silver foiling. Its the water that allows the leather to become more pliable and allow stamps to leave an impression. *Possibly, somebody who actually knows what they are talking about will be along soon.

Very smooth. I like it a lot. How tight is the retention on the knife without a strap to hold it in the sheath?

I have never seen these before.

I have more than a dozen of Sergey's stamps, plus 3 makers marks and a custom stamp to my design, so I can highly recommend his work and his prices are very good and I will probably buy more stamps from him at some time in the future. The distance is my only consideration in this instance.

The stamps marked Craft Tool USA were made fairly recently. For some of the more common stamps and maybe some that might be losing their chrome coating, I would not pay more than $2AUD or $3AUD. Some of the other different stamps, I would start to offer $5AUD and maybe go up from there. Really rare stamps or maybe better quality stamps, I would offer more, but condition and actual stamp design play a large role in dictating what they are worth to me and/or other people.

I really like the design and you have definitely nailed the construction. This is a beautiful piece of art. I have seen so many of these things recently ... I am inspired to try making one. This will be my 1st zipper install, so maybe I will end up with a weird pouch to keep old tools in, while I make a 2nd 3rd or 4th attempt!

Do you have a pic of the "armoured toe fitting" prior to assembly of your sheath?

It looks almost ... antique! I like it. What is the back like? Belt loops? Carry strap?

Hmmm Vietnam is a lot closer to Australia than Bulgaria! How is his quality and communications?

That is a great phrase. I like the fact that somebody recognises where they are at, and they have the humility to say so. Depending on where you are, country and/or locality, there are a few things you can do to build up a decent tool set. There is a thread somewhere on LW.net about cheap tricks and hacks. Check that out and change it to suit your needs and abilities. And don't forget to post questions, successes and less-than-successful-attempts. Above all else, have fun with it.

Excellent video with relevant information. Thank you for your efforts.

Do you have any pics? Otherwise, people might not end up commenting on the same thing you are talking about.