Danne

I don't think I use any special technique, I skive with the bevel down so it works like a "fulcrum point", if I want to skive feather thin, I first skive from let's say 1mm to 0.5mm, and I increase the angle so it's close to feather thin, and finish with a small skive to take the rest. The problem here is with medium soft leather like sully, it really requires the knife to be RAZOR sharp. So sharpening and I can strop my knife through a project like this. If I would do this professionaly I might need skiving knives with better knife retention when working with softer leather. for veg tan I can skive a lot of leather before it needs to be resharpened, and the reason is because when I do the sawing motion in veg tan (Not really soft veg tan though) I can put a little bit of pressure on the knife, which I can't on softer leather, then it stretches and the result is either skiving through or uneven skiving or not a clean edge of the skive.

Your edges would probably look just as good or better if you spent the time i've spent practice edge painting

Thanks. Did a typo. Card pockets are not finished yet, next step is to crease and paint edges. But they are assembled

Card pockets assembled:

Skived some card pockets. The width is oversized for trimming so the skived ears will start exactly where my stitching holes are, which results in a slimmer edge but doesn't affect durability in this case. Sully have good enough tensile and tear strength to do like this on pocket "ears" Why do I make "T-pockets" instead of full "width" pockets? If it was just two pockets I would make them full width. But the weight of leather I use for pockets is 0.9mm and a full "width" pocket add bulk and even if the bottom is skived you will see the transition. If I had access to my own band knife splitter I would make my pockets lined and around 0.7mm thick and full width (and of course skive the transition so the edge stays thin.

@RockyAussie Sent you two photos of my daily wallet with the same principe with only the edges glued. (I don't wan't to mix in photos from other wallets in this thread)

Thank you, the lining is only glued at the edges, so making it longer would result in "bubble" in the lining when closed if I would make it longer. If fully glued to the exterior I wouldn't glue it at such a tight curve and the lining would be longer and it would "give" a little bit without creasing. It opens completely "flat" without problem, but I just glued it on that photo and I don't want to open it up more because it would cause stress on the fold before the glue have cured completely. Yes creasing with a regular iron is quite tricky on these pockets since I use a regular FN2-iron, but I tilt the iron on both short and long sections of the pocket to get a similar crease over the whole edge. And to answer the question why I only glue the edges of the lining. It's because the combination of veg tan with a lining tend to make the exterior very stiff if fully glued.

I think it's mostly used to avoid stretching in straps and belts. I'm not 100% certain but if you look at the Hermès watch straps video on Youtube I think it's the same material, but they call it Velodon. In this construction it's not used for reinforcement, since the construction is strong enough without reinforcement (No grain is skived on the pocket section) The white part you see in the included photo is Vildona (the white part will be trimmed away before assembled to the exterior) and the reason is only to give a little bit of structure to the top of the card sections, since the pocket sections are not connected to each other (Just like in my other versions of this wallet with vertical pockets, you can see them in brown/navy, black/orange in my earlier posts here.

Thank you.

I'm making a bifold wallet with the dimensions to fit up to UK-currency (Maximum bill height 85mm) I will update with some photos during the construction. I start with some drawings and a couple of photos, and will add a couple of more photos until it's finished. Ask if you have any questions. (Disclaimer: Self taught hobbyist, so construction methods are what works for me) Some information about materials used. Exterior leather: Black vegetable tanned semi-aniline Interior leather and lining: Goat leather Structur material for pocket sections: (sandwished between top and lining) Freudenberg Vildona SH-1220 Edge paint: Fenice Pricking irons: Ksblade 9spi/3mm Awl: Modified Seiwa diamond awl Thread: Xiange Twist #30 (0.38mm) or #35 (0.30mm) I haven't decided yet Glue: Renia Aquilim 315 / Renia Syntic Total Creaser: Regad F2, FN2 Drawing: Printed template (Of the finished dimensions): Card pockets cut: Card pockets creased and painted: Exterior lined:

I gave you a link to Aacrack that sell Crocodile skins from HCP (HCP = Hermès Cuirs Précieux) https://www.aacrack.co.uk/tanneries/hcp/hcp-niloticus-crocodile.html I don't really understand how you mean, there is no secret what leather and suppliers Hermès use. A couple of examples: Barenia = Haas Novonappa, Degermann Baranil Zermatt = Haas Zermatt, Degermann Zermatt Epsom = Haas Derby Swift = RMG Pomari (Not 100% certain) Fjord = Perlinger Fjord (Not 100% certain) I'm not saying i'm 100% correct here, I might have missed something you know that I don't know?

I have never used double-sided tape, but I doubt it's that strong, I mean reinforcement tapes (even the best ones aren't that strong) And also I try to make my products slim, and a double sided tape is probably at least 0.15-0.2mm thick which make a difference for the things I make. But I think double-sided tape can be an awesome solution in many cases, like for attaching zippers.

No, I don't sell anything. But I do plan and analyze things. Everything from construction, material, design. And I thought about this when thinking about linen thread and synthetic thread. How complicated it would be when you sell a cites-product outside of EU, and stitch it with linen thread, and it needs to be sent back for restitching.

I don't say you are wrong. I just said that Aacrack say that it's chrome tanned. They sell Hermès croc skins (HCP = Hermès cuirs precieux)

Where did you read that? According to Aacrack it's chrome tanned. https://www.aacrack.co.uk/tanneries/hcp/hcp-niloticus-crocodile.html

Here is a clip where Hermès make their pocket watch strap. Alligator, veg tan?, Zermatt calf (Looks like veg tan between gator and Zermatt at 1:48)

English is not my native language either, and your English is better than mine, and no one have complained about my grammar. The important thing is that everyone is able to communicate and understand each other. Really nice work and tooling. Welcome to the forum, I look forward to see more of your work.

It's possible on lined watch straps too, but requires a little bit more planning when gluing things together. I haven't tried it, but I usually take screenshots when I see solutions I like.

In a construction like that you also have another good solution, just double loop around the edge when you finish and push the needles out between the layers of leather and make a knot or two between the leather. I think you understand but I google to see if I find an example. Like this the only difference is that you will of course go in and out with the needle/thread from the sides in the space beside your metal keepers. https://www.instructables.com/id/Leather-NATO-Watch-Strap/

Of course if you glue lining to for example a card holder/wallet you want a really strong bond. But there are situations where you don't need that strong bond and it can cause problems. Let me take an example. You are making a card holder (That common fold-type that Hermès call mc2 Euclide.) You stitch it with linen thread, and a couple of years later the customer want it restitched, no matter what warranty you have you will of course have to help your customer even if he/she have to pay for it. Or most of you would decide to help your customer. You will struggle a lot with removing the pocket sections if it's glued with a strong solvent based glue. Will it be possible, yes but a lot of work compared to a slightly weaker glue.

Aquilim 315 is an awesome glue, and very strong. You get an instant bond (No need to clamp like with regular white glue) just like with solvent based contact cement, and it gets stronger after curing a couple of days. But when I put a little bit of glue on the thread after back stitching I prefer a regular white glue. In which situations do you need a solvent based glue? If you glue synthetic materials, or oily/waxy leathers especially with edges without stitching. Renia also have a product (hardener) for 315 if you want to use it with waxy/oily leather, I haven't tried it though http://www.renia.com/tech_D_G/552-D_G.tech.pdf Also if you make layered paddings (glue layers of leathers together and skive through them) a white glue is better, because it's a hard to skive through 315 because the knife tends to get stuck.

Also a tip, take some white glue (not contact cement based) regular white glue is better, and I still have a five year old small bottle I mainly use for this purpose and for layered paddings where I skive through the glue. take a round awl and push in some white glue in the hole after back stitching. You can also put some glue on the thread loops right before you pull the last backstitch tight. It's quick and add that little extra bond.

Yes it make sense. I have always thought that Xylene is way more toxic. But I then think it's the correct filter 3M recommended me (AXP3-6098) And I will go for that filter and attach it to a half mask, and also solve exhaust for the winter. It's not only because it's toxic, it also smell a lot in my apartment if I don't have my window open, which is not a solution I like in the winter here Now the only problem, finding someone who sell it. Out of stock everywhere.

And Meisi have also started to sell in sample size which is awesome to be able to buy the most common colors you use in full spools, and all the other colors in small size. Perfect for watch strap makers. http://meisi108.com/product-17210-45255-86612.html

Yes I saw that in Renias MSDS too. "MSDS says it is an eye irritant or there is danger to your eyes if splashed" Yes that was my thought also, like if you use acetone in liquid form for cleaning, or maybe spraying a acetone based glue or other situations where you risk to get it in your eyes it's important with a full face mask. I open my window, put on the mask and glue what I need, close my glue jar, take off the mask and wash my hands. And I just checked the MSDS for my small bottle of acetone 99% acetone (The most common one used for nail polish remover) it says "use adequate respiratory protection in case of insufficient ventilation" and it doesn't smell strong, but my glue smell, but it also have two more solvents. But I still can't really figure out why that mask AXP3-6098 would be a better choice than my A1-filter. My A1 filter is for solvents with a boiling point above 65c (and works for two of the solvents) and AXP3-6098 for solvents below 65c (acetone in this case) and when I use my A1-filter I can't smell anything with my glue bottle opened. And a very wild guess is that the difference is very small in this situation, especially because of the comment from renias MSDS. But I think you understand me, if I use a respirator mask, of course I want to use the best suited filter. But I appreciate your input here, and everything you say make sense. ps. I have tried three different solvent based glues from Renia, and two other brands. And this is the only one that works really good with nylon. At first I thought it didn't work because the bond was quite weak, but if I leave it for 1-2 days to cure the bond becomes really strong, and then I just glued it to a single piece of leather, when I use it on straps it's used at the fold and glued between two pieces of leather which of course will make it even stronger. And it's so easy to apply almost like water based glue, it's not stringy at all.