Danne

I have a Fileteuse from Regad with F and FN-irons. I prefer to crease pocket edges and edges without stitching with FN-irons, and the outside of stitched edges with F-irons. The problem here is with the F-irons which works very good on stiffer leather like vegetable tanned leather, but on softer leather like Chevre Sully, no matter what combination of heat and pressure I either burn/cut the leather or the crease is barely visible. On some colors of chevre it's possible to get a decent result, on other colors it's not possible. I have seen some crafters with modified F-irons, but those irons are quite expensive and it's small and intricate work to reshape the edge of the iron, so I don't really feel comfortable to do it myself. I'm looking for recommendations on irons from other producers that will fit my Regad handle and give a thinner crease (maybe something in between Regads F and FN-irons. I have seen creases made with Cmdachongs Fileteuse, but i'm not sure if it's with F or FN-irons, and if they will fit my Regad handles. Any input here would be appreciated. Or recommendations on someone who can modify a F2-iron for me (I did see someone on Instagram like a year ago, but don't remember who it was) Here are some examples from my wallets, and as you see the F-crease is barely visible, with higher temperature or higher pressure it will cut/burn through the finish of the leather.

I like this wallet. Slim profile, and the combination of that black "LVMH-leather" in combination with the natural veg tan and white thread looks really good together.

I have seen that Tandy now sell some better quality tools, but they certainly loose a lot of customers with their cheap "entry level" products. For example you can't sell a hole punch set that is impossible to make holes with. I bought it around three years ago, and they still sell it. Or a set for punching stitching holes with painted prongs that is so far from sharp you can get (you almost need a sledge hammer to punch it through your leather and it leaves holes three times larger than needed even for a thick thread. I would say most customer who buy a product like that, do it one time and then never go back to that store again. I have talked about this before. Here are the example. 0.3mm "cutting edge" And sure it works after reshaping and sharpening, but a beginner should be able to use the tools "out of the box" And here is the stitching hole punch set compared to Seiwa and very cheap Chinese hole punches from Aliexpress. I understand that there is a big market for entry level tools, not all people want to spend thousands of euros for their beginner tools. But if someone asked me for recommendations of cheap beginner tools, I would choose give them recommendations from Aliexpress instead of Tandy. They would get better tools for a lower price. So my input here is Tandy need to try if their tools really work before they sell them.

I use Google Sketchup in 2d-mode. And on rare occasions Illustrator if I need to make something with curves and plan the stitching, like a bund strap for a watch. The reason I prefer Sketchup is because I find it quicker for those types of templates.

Use a little bit of water on the flesh side (like with a brush) and fold it around something around the same size as the spring bars.

I prepunch my patterns so every hole is counted for.

Nice looking wallet. A tip regarding the stitching. I pre-punch my template before I start my project, this way I can make sure every hole is in the correct place on the finished product.

Alran Sully is combination tanned (Both vegetable and chrome tanned) = Not suitable for burnishing edges, you need to use edge paint.

Yes, you can, with thicker leather it's no reason to do like this because it's possible to get a nice stitch/slant on both sides if you cast the thread. When you stitch really thin edges like around 2mm or less in total thickness it's very hard to get a nice slant on both sides unless you use very thin thread, or a very good technique and/or combination of leather stiffness. In this case, you can punch from both sides (with the same irons) and stitch without cast and get a nice slant on both sides. Examples of crafters who use this technique are Chestermox and Shiang Lin. Here you have an example from Chestermox. It's not easy since you have to punch your holes at the correct distance and align everything really good.

1. Sieck.de ? 2. La Perla Azzurra Dakota: http://www.venditapelle.it/product/7/Dakota.html 3. Mando https://mando.fr/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=2154 4. Sieck: Rebuilt Fratelli Alberti FAV2: http://www.sieck.de/en/machines/new-arrivals/?produkt=9921 5: Which thread? Leatherhouse sell fine linen thread (Produced by Meisi) https://www.leatherhouse.eu/products/98-sewing-thread/3454-waxed-linen-thread-from-hong-kong---yue-fung/ 6: Leatherhouse: Dye from ROC, Fiebings, and Fenice. If there is any particular product you are looking for, like a special brand of thread or dye/edge paint, I might be able to help, since I have quite good knowledge of the different European suppliers.

I don't really understand the problem. If the strap stretches into a "curve" then you tension the thread too much on one side. If you are talking about uneven edges after stitching then the solution is either, using thinner thread or less tension, stitching farther from the edge, or sand/finish the edge after stitching.

This is what I use For larger panels: https://leathercrafttools.com/item/4664/ And for smaller things like edges and watch straps: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Glue-Spreaders-Plastic-PVA-10-Spatula-Home-school-craft-Kids-Children-cheapest/191888237793?epid=1889273892&hash=item2cad6e24e1:g:5lAAAOSwoQ1ToZ8z

Thank you. The top layer is Tärnsjö and lining Haas Zermatt, both are 1mm thick.

Hi and welcome. Looked at your work on your Instagram, nice work especially the latest clutch. What's behind your stitching pony here. (The wood thing attached to your desk)

Around the same price and quick shipping, I haven't used Wuta but Kevin's irons are good. I also have Ksblade, Ksblade are ergonomically better, but also a lot more expensive. You won't be disappointed with Kevinlee. https://kevinlee.global/collections/best-sellers/products/kl-french-pricking-iron-1?variant=16154124451940

I use linen thread from Fil Au Chinois and Meisi (Yuefung button also produced by Meisi, and Twist from RML I think.) I do wallets and watch straps. 2.45/11spi: Thread 0.35-0.43mm 2.7/10spi: Thread 0.35-0.51mm 3.0/9spi: Thread 0.45-0.51mm

It should hold up fine, Vernis 600 is a good edge paint. before you paint your edge, it's just sanded correct? no burnishing with Tokonole or something similar? because I have seen that sometimes because a burnishing agent before paint will have a negative impact on the adhesion. your paint need to be able to penetrate to the fibre structure (I'm no expert, just my amateur observations)

You say you don't want to make your own, I thought the same but decided to give it a try. It's actually a quick and fun project. The tools/materials I used was a plastic miter saw box, some sandpaper, wood glue, drill, some screws, and a hinge. (Not completely finished in this picture, added some leather and a "lock".

Yes, it would be possible to punch from the inside out on the wallet I showed earlier. Let's say the interior is orange and exterior black and I use orange thread, then I punch from outside. Also it's not uncommon you get the profile I showed you in my drawing. For example if you do a bifold with bill compartment and use softer leather outside. Here is an example. (Not mine it's from Chestermox) I'm not trying to be a wiseacre, just sharing my thoughts on this. Another common product where it's hard to punch through without awl is a card case with pockets on both sides.

If your edge looks something like this, you are going to have a hard time without an awl.

I don't think we are talking about the same thing here. Here is an example. The total thickness of leather layers is 3.5mm but the edges are around 2mm. So I'm talking about skiving all/most parts before assembling for a nice transition and a slim profile of the edges. Here I punch holes on the outer leather before assemble and go through with an awl. If I would use irons and go through the whole way, it would be very hard to do it straight.

The downside with this is if you skived your edges, you are going to have a hard time punching your holes straight. Using an awl takes a bit of practice but in my opinion, something you have to learn if you do wallets. At least if you do slimmer wallets. A lot of people seem scared of their awl. With a sharp awl and some practice, it isn't that hard.

Linen thread. Yes, hide it under the lining beside the keeper is a good solution. But it's far from easy to do with a good result. It's a tight space for four thread ends in total, and when I go through with the needle it distorts lining leather. Also not easy to glue it in place afterward. Going out at the buckle slot is not a working solution, because I use reinforcement (On some straps the whole length, but always at the buckle and where the strap attaches to the lugs. It depends on the type of leather I use, and the weight and construction.) I think super glue (or solvent-based leather glue) is the solution I'm going to use right now. A half knot and a little bit of glue before I pull it together, that way the glue is hidden inside the hole. From the looks on other straps (Some straps are very thick and the lining is glued very tight around keeper), I can't see how they used another solution. Thank you for your answer

I haven’t used Vernis, but I would guess not more than 30 minutes. Make some test pieces and you will find out. If you have fold sections it’s good to let it fully set before folding. Which take longer time.

My thoughts on this. I have done leathercraft for around three years. The first thing I bought was some really cheap Chinese tools on eBay. After a while, I thought I buy some better tools, which I bought from Tandy. Now I have a mix of budget tools and expensive tools. (From Leathercrafttools, Goodsjapan, Ksblade, Kevinlee and such) If I have a look at Tandys website I don't find anything I want. But I have found some tools on Aliexpress that I'm going to buy, like hole punches from Wuta. Tandy sells a cheap hole punch set, but useless unless you sharpen/reshape them.