Danne
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Everything posted by Danne
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Slim card case
Danne replied to Danne's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
Thank you niakulah. I usually decide against fully lining pockets when using chevre. There are two reasons. 1. I don't own a splitter and I choose two weights (Company who split for me) 1mm and 0.5mm, and I prefer overlapping T-pockets (ears overlap) over full square pockets since it gives me a perfectly uniform edge. If I did use 0.5+0.5mm I wouldn't be able to split the edges so much (the outlines of the pocket would be visible) If I own a splitter I would probably do a pocket in 0.7mm and skive edges and line with 0.2-0.3mm The second reason is that Chevre sully have very nice and uniform flesh, with some Tokonole it's completely flat. Everything is 0.5mm except pockets which are 0.9-1.0mm -
Slim card case
Danne replied to Danne's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
Thank you Rockoboy. -
First "classy" wallet
Danne replied to datdraku's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
Thank you. I have heard about Kevin Lee before, looks like a decent tool for a reasonable price. No sorry, I'm not there anymore. Or not with Leathercraft. I uploaded a slim card holder I did the other day.- 31 replies
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First "classy" wallet
Danne replied to datdraku's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
Do you like Wutas pricking irons? I use Ksblade 3.0, but for some projects, i would like a higher spi. And Ksblade is quite expensive, and I would rarely use them (Just for very thin watch straps.- 31 replies
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Slim card case
Danne replied to Danne's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
Thank you Vyo. -
This is the thinnest card case I've done. Pink chevre leather and stitched with lin thread. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. (Even if I understand this is no advanced construction, I hope I can help someone.)
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First "classy" wallet
Danne replied to datdraku's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
Your wallet is really nice. Very clean work. You say you are not 100% happy about the edge result, and I think it's because of your choice of edge paint. I would recommend you to use some of these. Fenice, Vernis 600, Beraud CT, Stahl, Uniters, Giardini. Personally, I prefer Fenice, but Uniters seems very popular. But I stay with Fenice since I'm used to that paint and I get decent results. If you decide one of these and need help to find it in Europe, just ask and I give you some links/recommendations. (Disclaimer: Vernis600 is really good but have a rather short shelf life, around a year or so.)- 31 replies
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Regarding the templates, I print my templates and glue them on "cardboard" I don't know the correct name. (See picture) If you do the same product a lot and you have done a couple of revisions and feel like it's your final product, THEN you can buy acrylic templates for this.
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I might be wrong, and maybe it's only the machine where they have a configuration with single and twin motors, and you can update the single version. I can't find an exploded view of the Sieck or the Cobra, so I can't say for sure. But i'm certain there are others here who know.
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Lets talk about WOW factor in leatherwork.
Danne replied to immiketoo's topic in Leatherwork Conversation
I agree with what you are saying. And I would say you should look at others work and try to learn from other (No. not copying, but things like techique) and compare with your old work and see your progress. And it's easy to think "My work is really bad compared to this guy or girl, and I have done this a lot longer" instead be happy with your progress. My work is really good IF I compare to the things I did a year ago. If I compare with others, there are ALWAYS someone who is much better. I inspected some handmade IWC-watch straps. They looked awesome, but either the stitching or the edge paint was perfect. -
If i'm not wrong you wan't to be able to spin the bell at high speed and the feed in low speed for some leathers. And from the look of most of these machines you can do this modification "quite easy" if you feel like you need to. In short: Remove one pulley and install one extra motor a couple of brackets and a speed controller. And I guess there are "conversion kits" for this too.
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Would you say the Sieck machine is one of the good machines, or did you mean I should buy a better machine like a refurbished Fortuna?
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I'm looking for a skiving machine. And I have a couple of questions. 1. If I buy something like this (chinese made?) http://www.sieck.de/en/machines/skiving/leather-goods-and-automotive-interieur/details/5385/ (From my understanding chinese made machines works quite good.) And a new Fortuna or similar are very expensive. (I do leathercraft as a hobby) the question is, what happens in 5-10 years when I need spare parts? 2. If I buy an old Fortuna (some rusty thing not used for years.) can I still buy spare parts for those machines from Fortuna? An old Fortuna I can renovate would be the best solution. I like machines and have worked with machines for many years. Which would make this an awesome project.
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Yes it does. But it's not hardening. This is what my brush looks like after not being used for a day. Sometimes not in a week. I don't know what brush you have. Ts-boy looks like a copy of Minor, or maybe it's the same just "rebranded"
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I have my glue in a glue pot (Minor 0.4L) When i don't use it i store it like this. And before use i shake it a little bit, because it gets a little thicker in consistency
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I apply to only one surface. (Don't use to much glue, a thin layer is enough) if you glue flesh to roughed grain, put the glue on the roughed grain. i finish with either pressing the pieces together or hammering. After this i have really good bond suitable for continuing my work. If you need a solvent based glue too for some stuff. Renia have two products i like. Top-Fit and Colle De cologne. Top-fit is not stringy (or very little) Colle De cologne is better for waxy/oily leathers, but stringy.
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Another 4 slot wallet
Danne replied to Stetson912's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
Nice wallet. Well done. i like the pocket shape -
My brush look different. Ts-Boy looks like a clone of Minor.
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Since you live in Us i would recommend Buttero (Really nice Italian leather) The reason I say "since you live in Us" is because you can't buy directly from the tannery (high moq) but you can find resellers in Us and of course asia. https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/leather/products/buttero-veg-tanned-leather-3oz-1-2mm-made-in-italy
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315 and SG? For waterbased glues you can use regular brushes. I have a bottle of water on my desk to rinse my brushes after glueing. There are two ways to use Aquilim 315. 1. Apply 315 to ONE SIDE of leather (if one side is flesh side and one side is roughed/sanded grain, then apply to the piece with sanded grain.) and assemble directly and press a couple of seconds, or use a hammer. Now you have a good bond (which of course gets better when completely dried.) 2. Apply Aquilim 315 to both sides and let dry until it's clear, then assemble. If you need a good solvent based glue for leather i can recommend two different versions from Renia. Renia - Topfit: Very versatile glue, also a good glue for bonding wet leather (If you need that for molded pieces for any reason.) One benefit with this glue is that it's not "stringy" Renia - Colle De Cologne: Really good for oil tanned leather, but it's "stringy" I have most of Renias glues for leather. If i should choose three of them for the things i do, it would be. 315, SG and Top Fit.
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Still looking for some answers here.
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Ok, just a way to make money. The included brush works perfect with aquilim 315. If you need a smaller brush, then you can use any brush you want.
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What do you mean with different applicator brush? I have never seen those Glue pots with different brushes for water based and solvent based. (The blue ones produced by Minor) Just now i only have one glue pot (for water based) but i need a couple more for other solvent based glues. Where can i read about the different versions?
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I would recommend Renias waterbased glue. My two recommendations (What suits your needs best.) Renia Aquilim 315 = Instant and permanent bond. But requires that you sand if you glue flesh to grain. Just put glue on one of the pieces and assemble and press/hammer and you have a good bond. If you glue lets say flesh to sanded grain, then put glue on the sanded grain. I did a test a couple of days ago. I glued two pieces of vegetable tanned leather together, and after dried i put it in water for 15 minutes. The bond was perfect even though the leather was dripping wet. Renia Aquilim SG = Instant bond on almost everything, i glue my paddings to my granite plate with this (for easier shaping) But this bond is a temporary bond and is possible to remove, so only use this if you are stitching. Aquilim 315: Aquilim SG:
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Thank you, do they have resellers in Europe?