koreric75

Thanks! I have done a couple of his, but haven't for awhile...probably since i got a stitcher...lol. Tony's patterns are hand-stitch although i have mod'd some to use the machine when I'm feeling lazy...lol

Here are a few items from my Wicket & Craig Chestnut English Bridle...a MotokoIII laptop bag (patter from dieselpunk/Tony See), a Fieldnotes and a wallet.

I don't think so, not reliably, it's more than getting through the material and forming a stitch. As you know, if you are newer, the speed you need to maintain to keep that stitch forming can be hard to manage...lol. For myself, I gave up on the "cheap" option and bought the CB3200, it is versatile enough to sew a dopp kit, bag, or holster and heavy belts/harnesses. I do have my adler, which is handy for it's own applications, but use the cowboy 90% of the time. I believe it is the 108W3...it is an old singer and very hard to find any documentation on. I got it spinning and it feels good but haven't made a stitch with it yet. I also have an old 78-1 that we determined the drive rod is bent so will not stitch right.

If you hang around the store enough, you'll probably find a bunch of folks that would be happy to help. Our tandy here has open table days where you can work your own projects using their tools, dyes etc...as well as classes on the weekends...try attending a few of these and see if anyone clicks.

try shortening the stitch length some, and making sure your needle is big enough to allow the loop to form underneath for the hook. I have the same issue if i get too thick under the foot, sometimes it works better if i zip along and other times better if i slow roll it...lol

ah nice, i have the same problem with my adler, i found that it usually happens if i try to manipulate the material too much, esp if i'm doing long stitches on a little thicker leather. Have you mentioned it to steve?

What kind of machine?

Welcome to the forum, there's a few of us local to the area. Looks like a good start to a pattern and will probably morph as you refine them. what did you stitch this with?

Thanks all, @Riem This was the last of my Black Cherry Harvest from Acadia Leather, the trim and straps on the duffel were from an Austin double shoulder from Tandy Leather. My only regret is that I didn't do a piping in the tan around the ends.

A couple of recent projects, a large duffel bag and tote.

That is AWESOME, very nice looking, like it was meant to be there!

That really came out beautiful, that kudu is so clean looking! Great job on the sunburst too, love my airbrush!

When i got my 3200, i was told the springs were the heavy duty, and that is what i wanted as i wanted the positive pressure to prevent the leather pulling up with the needle/foot...and it still hasn't skipped a stitch even on the thick and heavy stuff. I just had to adjust my perspective of how to use the machine. If i have "mushy" veg tan or other leather I usually contact cement the seams, dye & finish before stitching. This tends to work better anyway as i'm not worried about dyeing my stitches. This way and a good tapping with a polished face hammer have resolved my issues, and if you go over that with a bone even better. Here's a long wallet I finished up this weekend, i used some bridle that cut and burnishes beautifully, stitched with the 3200, I had some marks but just tapped them down while tapping the stitches and are all but non existent now. (the pockets on the liner were all hand stitched) My machine came with a set of lighter springs that could be installed, but I'd rather have the staying power and adjust my process for the stuff that is prone to impressions.

I figured as much, they tried to spin that "A" grade is the best of "what we have to offer at this time" and that just didn't sit right with me, but I haven't been around long enough to know better. I am confident that when i hold and manipulate a piece of leather, i could care less what name is on it, under it or behind it, if it feels good...do it...lol, but I agree whole heartedly, if you want to sell me something, and I've purchased from you in the past, i'd expect equal or better in quality for the ~same price. And it sucks for someone that is making products that already knows they're in for a 50% waste margin, who's supposed to eat that, the leather crafter, the distributor??? the tannery or the cattle farmer...I mean how far back does it go to get consistent quality grade leather? On a side note, I've had some success with leather with fat wrinkles, brands and marks for the padfolios, and notebook covers...even was asked if i can do a couple more with the "markings" like i did for the other feller. So if you end up with a pile of it you won't use, I wouldn't mind getting some if it's worth it to recoup some of the waste cost.

I watched a video last week about leather "grades" that kind of opened my eyes a little and made me less comfortable about buying online sight unseen...I bought a scrap bundle of bridle a couple weeks ago and was really happy with the way my little pieces worked out, wanna buy sides, but again...sight unseen on $40 for a few pretty good size scraps, and $200+ for a side is a big difference when you're small time.

I've seen some other feet from other machines if similar make that have the open toe, but not sure if it would change anything other than the shape of the impression. The videos and manuals are under the support section, http://www.solar-leather.com/supporthelp I believe the feed dog is covered under the throat plate video as you remove it completely to attach some of them

I have a few pictures up here in gallery and more on Facebook or Instagram @Bluefalconleather...

how thick is that stack of leather, mine does this as well as the side marks from the walking feet. for the unfinished veg tan you can dampen and rub most of that out with a bone or tap it with a flat smooth hammer...I've found that if I make, edge, burnish, color, finish then stitch it helps alot...for the projects that are getting dyed. You could probably lower the feed dog down a tad, check out the videos on youtube from solar leather on how...I have never fully gotten rid of the marks, but changing the order i do things helped, don't give up on it, it's a good stitching machine and i'm glad i have it, just have to put some seat time in on it like any other tool/eqpt you are new with.

I believe aaron and a couple others are at the tradeshow in prescott AZ, and they posted on their social media sites they have had much higher volumes of orders with the new product line. I know when i order something from them it takes a bit to get here, but if it's a rush I'd contact them prior to ordering to make sure it's do-able.

This post still intrigues, as you stated it's a good question, and not one that folks can say, just google it as it's been beaten to death. I agree with furthering the craft and feel blessed this site exists (probably 'bout time i turn my name to blue) and for all the folks that contribute their experience, advice, and support for the beginner up to the master craftsman. I also appreciate the other skill-sets that are kindred to leather craft and the craftsmen that do the same, machine stitching, metal working, and probably most recently 3d printing and laser machines, wholda' thunk it?

i definitely have been waiting for one of these to come across my path, specifically for binding on bags with chrome/oil tanned leather. Currently i've been building them inside out and turning them or using lighter veg tan and burnishing, or Mexican braid lacing to cover the edges...it's working for now, but there is definitely a place for a dedicated binding machine in my shop...not physically, but logically...lol

I have one of these, and was using it for similar projects...I used an 18 for #92 thread (pretty much the very max end for this machine) and a 16 for #69(this seemed to handle well), leather point needles of course. I used it primarily for wallet liners (still do, just to sew the pockets t slot bottoms). The tension will depend on the material and needle size and thread you're using, test on scrap pieces first. Once you find where you tension is right, it makes beautiful stitches. If you get to material that is too thick you'll have stitch problems, it's hard to do but you have to slow it down for some things. A few projects i stitched almost completely without power to the pedal...lol.

http://upstream.50webs.com/

best way is to know is trial and error, take a couple scrap pieces of veg, stitch it up and then cut a straight line a ways from the stitching, bevel/round your edges, wet, then burnish...I like to use as little glue on the edge as possible when burnishing as it can leave a visible line, not a problem if you're going to dye it dark, but for natural edges it depends on what you like.

Kind of like the Janome HD3000 they have better...honestly i can get it to do almost the same as the stitch master, just not quite the oompf and no servo/speed reducer...but it makes very nice stitches and feels pretty solid.