koreric75

So the boy decided he would make a wallet he's had for awhile. I got it in a clearance sale at Tandy, the classic trifold kit. He decided he'd use the thicker white braided nylon and went with a light British tan sunburst with the air brush. Other than helping him get a few of the stitches worked out after he pierced the thread he did a great job. He was a little disappointed the edges didn't line up perfect to burnish, I told him with a kit and no glue the pockets and layers will move with use and folding/unfolding the wallet. He still hot the edges with some saddle soap and canvas... And they polished up nice, just not flush looking he wanted... Son's first wallet/leather project... https://imgur.com/a/M8WhbiT

cool, now just need some steel plate and a welder...or a buddy that can weld ( haven't tried and don't think i'm ready to undertake another artform) and some dies and you'll be rocking and rollin

That is awesome, one couldn't ask for more, even with the containers...I will look into this as i've found some projects need something other than the resolene although i use this most with the airbrush. I need to learn more patience and let the dyed project set overnight and rebuff before spraying though...lol

The Harbor Freight presses are fairly inexpensive and go on sale often, not sure if there's one near you as i'm not sure about shipping one. I simply just don't have the room to put one together yet.

Cool inlay, this was what i was imagining when responding to a post about cross-stitch punches for leather...can't remember who was asking, but my suggestion was pretty much what you have here.

hmmm...that's a good idea. I use the weld wood contact cement that comes in cans with the paint can type lid, but i have some older bottles that have the threaded cap with the brush attached I could transfer some into and keep the paint can lid on good and tight and just use out of the threaded bottle. Thanks for the idea c/o chuck dorsett, but i hadn't seen it before.

Any thing done half-assed will look just like that, half-assed, all the lipstick in the world doesn't make a pig more attractive...lol. A poor job of joining or preparing the edges will show even with binding. The point to binding is to cover raw edges, still want them as even and neat as possible. I use this for leather and material that doesn't burnish well or fold well...or benefits from the strength of binding the two together like stress points of a bag, but mostly to cover the raw edge. When binding depending on the thickness you may find skiving the joined material will help cut down on bulk when adding binding material as well. For some of your softer garment leathers that you use, have you tried saddle soap and canvas on the edges...it works for some that would just fold or crinkle with a rub stick? I have some thinner garment leather that i found comes to a nice burnish this way after previously trying the slicker on it. For some it has helped to stick it between a couple pieces of straight edge material...granite, marble, even a couple nice smooth boards, yardsticks etc and just leave the very edge of the two edges hanging out.

You should be able to mix in whatever the base is, all that has happened is that enough has evaporated over time and left your glue thicker...always try to keep the lid on tight when not using and in between uses, same with dye, if left open the base evaporates faster and can ruin a dye job, for alcohol based dye I will dilute with denatured alcohol, water based dye w/ water, resolene w/ water acrylic w/ water etc... I have a few cans that i use, for long straps and big projects i grab the newer or thinner of the glues as it's not been exposed as long and gives me more time to work, or i'll pour a good amount into my glue pot but if i don't get it right it's a pita to put back in the can and even sealed the pot seems to keep shorter time than the can.

I usually mix with a new can, I use weld wood, and it's a little too runny for some things so I have a can of new that I use for easier spreading and a can of less runny for more consistency

True, I have had the thread take a funny twist and loop around the tension spring...

Good morning, just following up to see if you've made any progress? It looks like a beautiful machine and i love my HD stitcher and would be lost without it.

did similar, i used my dremel and the "screw on" post for buffing pads to turn the little wooden knobs that are flat with raised edges, it takes a few seconds to swap one out for another and i can control the speed to suit the material. I have a drill press, and a 24" section of oak dowel "closet rod" just haven't chopped and put a gouge to it yet...the dremel takes up way less space, but i have to hold the material and the dremel . I had an idea awhile ago to use a variable speed router mounted in a benchtop router table with a turned groove to do belts and sand edges...you could adjust the fence and the height with the table and router adjustments, just haven't tried it out yet.

does it happen on different thread spools, if the needle hole is too big it may not be enough friction to hold and cause the loop to form? Need more specs so if someone that knows sewing machines better can better assist you...needle: size, point type, new/old/tried different needle types, sizes thread:size, composition (nylon, poly etc) age if it's been sitting awhile or not, tried different thread sizes, types etc.. material: leather, veg, garment, thickness, weight, if none of these seem to help fix the problem then may need to look at hook timing, tensions etc...it's helpful if you have someone take a video of you sewing slow with the side cover open to see how the thread is looping or not...of course it's like that weird noise you get in a car, take it to the mechanic and it doesn't do it at all then on the way home it comes back...lol, i'm sure the sewing machine gurus will have more to offer, in the mean time try to address the first things i mentioned...if you haven't change the needle...if that doesn't help try a smaller size, wouldn't say looking you'd need a bigger size, just try to make sure the needle size and thread match and match the material you're sewing... my old adler was skipping like crazy when i got it, but i was using a #22 round needle and #69 & #207 thread because that's what i had...i was testing it on veg tan or heavier foot leather scraps, but with some softer garment leather same thickness the #22 round and the #207 it sewed a few 20" long french seams beautifully...when if finally got in my leather point needles a #23 & the same #207 thread sews beautifully and i haven't had a skip since, one full belt double 6oz glued back to back and some of the previous test strips...no problem

Rushing around a curve before the thread makes a loop will cause that, does it happen on straight runs as well?

I haven't tried this, so can't expand on the procedure... from the video it does seem it is a trial and error process...I would try making a paper gauge like @Uwe has to test the fwd and reverse stitches...

stitch length if max at 4 spi, will shorten with taller material, I'm not much help for the fwd/rev, but there should be an adjustment for that...maybe @uwe has a video covering something like this...i searched like this site:www.youtube.com juki lu-563 reverse stitch adjustment and first vid popped up...tada..., if you've already watched this and tried the adjustment, may just take some more tweaking...

stitch length if max at 4 spi, will shorten with taller material, I'm not much help for the fwd/rev, but there should be an adjustment for that...maybe @uwe

Is this for head only or head, table & motor (what motor btw ie. clutch or servo), thanks..

Ditto, took awhile but was worth the wait, I'm thinking of getting another condensed size for smaller items... Have you shot him an email? I have no insight to his operation, ie, if he's a sole crafter or what not, but was always easy to communicate with, just the time difference from here to there... Threw me off but he's actually French, just lives in v.n.... He also helped in my design, he caught the font I used originally would not make as much of an impression as a deep cut, he adjusted and sent me a revised graphic and didn't ask for a penny more...

No worries at all, you gotta go with what makes you happy, I would also like a set of those crimson hides, one day after I've recouped some of my investments in machines, leather and other tools perhaps...my poor harley must feel neglected, all my fun money used to go there...lol

That's the one...

Thank you for the clarification, I am not sure how that works, the seller name on Amazon is C.S. Osbourne Co, link below... Osborne #144-43 Stitching Awl with 1-1/4" Diamond Shape Blade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L6M39I6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oyxKBbJ313MWW so I thought I was buying from the company proper... I've done a little research on drop shipping though and have found a few other sellers that do this, although I'm not sure how they can without some sort of blessing from the company and as such ensure quality. I know I would not want my business name associated with a seller like this, this awl has a three star overall review history, allot of 5 star and allot of 1 star... And in between. Until now I would have no reason to think the C's Osbourne selling awls on Amazon is any different form your distributors, and I can't be the only one there. I'm not trying to give you a hard time, but wish this information would have been known to me prior...I can handle the $10 dud, and the metal seems to be good enough to Sharon and work, just wasn't what I intended when I bought it. I realize now why there are so many $100 awl sellers out there, I reckon you pay for the labor of sharpening and shaping up front...

I use the same leather as the body or accent color, cut in to strips and if necessary (almost always is) skived as thin as possible to allow a double folded edge that will cover the seam edge and give ~1/4" seam allowance on both sides...there are places that you can purchase leather binding material on spools if you have a machine with a binder attachment, i have yet to get one so i use contact cement to do the folds and bond the binding then stitch with the cb3200 or hand.

So suede and the flesh side of tooling leather are pretty different, as is the dying techniques, I used some finished garment leather rough/flesh side out for a dopp kit, I airbrushed the dye and put a good coat of suede/nubuck leather protector on it, but could not get a very true color as the fibers when brushed would show their beige color under... But it was still soft... For the pocket watch cases I would imagine you want it soft to protect the watch, or slicked down for same reason, but honestly I think the lining is the best way to get the feel, look and protection you're looking for. It's possible you could get away with bonding with contact cement, very thin even coat on both surfaces, let dry then bond... That should hold for as long as the watch lasts, for the edges you can trim just shy of the tooling leather or try something like folding the edges over or a nice trim piece... All involve more stitching though... Sorry not much help... Another thought would be to but pre dyed tooling leather, I've found some that tool well and the rough side is very velvety feeling... You could still add touch up color or highlights possibly to the tooling if desired... May require just deglazing the outside a bit.