koreric75

Is this intended to be a single piece, ie the cross stitch on leather or cross stitch pattern that is accenting a larger item like a bag or purse? The reason I ask is it seems like many perforated holes in leather will greatly weaken it when stressed, if it's a pattern that will be framed then will there be leather in the voids as accent? Just trying to get a mental picture of the project...

sure thing...got a 1lb spool of 138 thread in and leather points for it so will be practicing some more as soon as i get this bag done

sure thing, just got in some new stones since i used my other set for the awl...lol, if you get it close to where the knip is I'll be ecstatic

lol, work smarter not harder...lazy would be no putting the liner in at all...I have been able to get an undercut bevel with the rotary cutter and a straight edge if i hold the rotary at an angle...I'll give it a whirl tho

the adler sews straight long lines real good...lol,

yep, that is a huge difference...lol, those 97-10's are monsters...

That is a beauty right there, my oldest brought his black belt to me last week, the reversible buckle on it broke so he needs a new one...I think these are too big for his dress pants, but I definitely will put 'em to good use. That liner looks awesome on there and perfectly even with the edge but not flush...how'd you do that?...lol

I was thinking the same thing, but i think it would've taken way longer to brush a resist down in all the low spots... turned out amazing...it's ones like these that when i finish i'm satisfied doing the work but i'm thinking...man i hope i don't have to do that one again too soon...lol

meant to ask the other day, did that fella give you casters on your table? I found this morning about 0330 that it was nice to be able to roll it out from the wall when doing a long french seam for a duffle bag.

I'll chime in here...have been playing with inkscape for about a year now...def no expert, but can maneuver around and get some things to work right. I ultimately wanted to be able to use it to design cut patterns for the cricut for vinyl, posterboard and thinner leather...I've been able to cut 4/5 oz with multiple passes and have it turn out good. Was hoping it would sub in for us poor fellas that haven't sold that other appendage for a clicker yet...lol. I probably spent twice as much time getting something that would cut right with the cricut software, it cuts what you tell it, but i didn't realize some of those single lines I thought were good were actually a path that looped so the cricut came out pretty rough. Once i got that figured out, things went better...I've been able to pull some images from a pdf or png and trace the bitmap image into paths and get them to cut pretty well also. The best turn out i had was the baseball hacky sack that i use some bargain white garment leather that was pretty stiff tempered, it cut the lace holes and all and went together pretty well with a baseball stitch.

Just exactly how does that work? I did try contacting you after reading this same verbiage on another post where someone was not happy with their round knife...I had a problem with a stitching awl that I ordered thru amazon, but was c.s. osbourne & co ( ultimately what i wanted to ensure as not everyone is totally honest and there are many knock offs out there )....instead of a daniel i got an automated response and another follow up email from "lisa" that suggested i contact someone at www.osborneleathertools.com for my purchase...I thought that's who I was contacting? I relented since it wasn't terribly expensive and threw it in the "never again" drawer until a later date that i could grind it down and actually make it sharp. So i'm not surprised you've never heard these problems, unless you're on a forum, since unless i'm withing driving distance it would get lost in the cloud of the interwebs.

well it was a good deal with 4 of 'em, with 5 of them i'd be basically losing money not buying the lot...lol, i'll shoot you a pm with my email for paypal invoice or whichever you wanna do.

Have you checked these two screws (extra red arrows) there should be springs behind them and not torqued down tight...the cb3200 likes them just backed out enough to see the first coil of the spring between the plate and screw head. also it's hard to tell from your pic if the hook is in the correct position, but if that is needle bottom dead center the thread cast off area? i think looks advanced, attached a link to another vid, if you notice the screw heads are backed out and you can just see the first coil of the spring behind...

Agree, a good fitted sheath for a very sharp knife would benefit from that welt, it will protect your stitching from the sharp edge when drawn and sheathed.

You should be fine with veg, with the bridle it can be a little trickier with burnishing the edges but not impossible... I've stamped bridle and Latigo, I haven't tried a swivel knife in it tho, I have some scraps around here some where will have to try it out on the morning

Yep, 4oz will mold but is flimsy, maybe not an issue for a purse, you could also try using the 4oz and instead of moulding, stitch a gusset in rather than molding... My wife loves her heavy duty tooled purse, but she doesn't carry it allot since it's quite heavy with nothing in it to start

dang, i had it set aside in the shed and found the guides for the fence attachment in the garage...lol

I have a few of his patterns,...started out with his free glasses case pattern and like it...the lighter brown is his case, i stitched the gusset inwards vs outwards...just was easier, but looks better if you stitch the front and back to the grain side of the gusset. The case on the right was a simple square lopped off one corrner, rounded then stitched with a metal clip in the back and lined with calf skin I meant to show you a couple of his patterns yesterday...just ran out of time and i couldn't focus on anything after getting to see and test your Knip knives...lol

I was thinking about your "few feet" conundrum, I would contact Mike @nstarleather to see if he has a box of scraps that you could buy...but noticed you're in England and shipping may be counter economical, alternative to that, I would hit the "Wanted" forum and post up a call to see if someone on your side of the pond has something they can part with.

For a rolled edge I use the same thickness for back and inner, just cut bigger to allow skiving and rolling... But honestly in it's veg tan I would rather burnish the edges... I'm not sure if this is what you're looking for...

Contact American leather direct and ask for a sampler... They sent me a bunch of sample rectangles on a leather lace, and some bigger pieces of the strap I was interested in as well as some garment/bag leather...I used some of the bridle just last week to practice/test a newly sharpened awl and set of irons...

I would say try a decent cheap-o set first, get them in a few different off sets so you can zero in on what works for your projects. My 4mm set I bought on Amazon for less than $15, I like them allot, but only use them for projects that for the smaller stitches, I prefer the 6mm spacing for bigger projects and thicker leather... The thing about the cheaper sets, you're probably going to need to fine tune them, maybe polish them some, but it will have a better effect when you set out to drop some serious coin in a better set. Don't count the awl out for starting, the sooner you pick it up and start the sooner you'll learn it... Just my 2 cents

Beautiful work! Really like the back grounding around the flower on the loop

Great, lots of feet list a number of interchangeable parts, but the 67 rarely falls in the list.

True, I also thought I was getting a mold for 357, but got the mold for .38, felt quite a bit more narrow but since I wasn't wet forming I was about to make allowance for it