koreric75

as Wiz said, i've played with it some and it tops out at 10oz and the thread size limit would be a nogo for holsters, probably sheaths as well. For the shows, you'll need something that will handle the size of leather and thread you need, other than hand-stitching there aren't many options for a lightweight transportable solution...even the boss and outlaw need a sturdy mount to keep it from jumping all over, you may as well carry the cobra with you unless power is an issue...

I can't agree enough with this, i felt the same way initially and figured i just got a dud knife...nope, just had to dedicate some time and patience to really get a good edge on it, then keep it stropped, i strop every time i pick it up and just before i put it back in it's case. keep at it and don't give up, a really good sharp head knife is gold in this biz...

I'll tag this here too, pretty good thread about different mfg and links to their sites...personally i've used AM Leathercraft (good price, long wait for shipping to states) and leatherstampmaker (highdesertCNC) good price and quick shipping for US

There's an entire thread started by JLS Leather just for this...

I have a 2.0 you can check out next time you're over...

Thank you, I prefer on this application to not use glue or the basting style tape for the seams. For a turned bag, i have a hard time getting the glue/tape line just right, so when the bag is turned right side out after sewing sometimes there is a little glue or tape visible. The last bag before this i was able to get it right, but i also added a welt to the seam so that helped some (mainly my glue line was wider and i had the welt to cover it), but was inherently more tedious and took significantly more time. Also for the oil tanned leather, especially some like this double waxed, glue doesn't work well on the grain side at all (even after roughing, i had a time getting the pockets stuck down before stitching) and the seams will slip if not held very closely to the presser foot. For the second question, @battlemunky covered it, if you're still curious...https://www.leather-dictionary.com/index.php/Pull_up_leather_-_Greased_leather_-_Waxed_leather_-_Oiled_leather

Thanks, the clips were on Amazon... Don't remember how much but have more than paid for themselves lol Thanks, and you're welcome...

@CowboyBob or @SolarLeatherMachines are both great sources for thread, I use solar-leather since they're the closest cowboy dealer to me, and a few spools gets heavy for shipping, toledo industrial machines would be closer to you, and i don't think you'll find better thread for the price than your cowboy dealers....

My suggestion, for a clean matching holster/mag pouch...check out @JLSleather https://www.jlsleather.com/matching-leather-sets/

that is what i was wondering, i mispoke on this one, no parts were replaced, just a cleaning and service...it spun freely enough before hand, but now not as well. i was wrong, the 78-1 got a replacement shuttle carrier, only to find out the shaft is bent as well...the 127 was just brought in as a basket case and reassembled.

One more for this morning, simple messenger bag made with @AcadiaLeather double waxed black jack, these have been quite a hit lately. This was the first time I managed to get the gusset stitched without gluing first, the clips helped a lot as did a few heavy duty staples the were removed afterwards.

Good morning, I thought I'd share a recent project with you. This is a simple leather sleeve for a moleskin notebook, the unit logo was done with a nice stamp from @LeatherStampMaker and the 6 ton harbor freight press. And the #Airborne was done by making a stencil and air brushing...

Also as mentioned above, with the clutch machine there is a chance with a jam the clutch has popped, it's under the machine on the right side of the shaft, holding the clutch and rotating the hand when toward you should allow the spring loaded ball bearing to pop back into place, let me know if you need pics etc

Hey wiz, i have an old iron body or two, my 127 was completely serviced, but it feels like there is a sticky spot and makes the shuttle drive feel "jerky", i haven't put a motor on it yet and was told that it was normal after getting some new parts to let it "run in" to allow the machine to wear the newer parts and it should be back to smooth operation. I have a couple of tables i could put this in, but it's a short bed and doesn't fit so i'm going to need to alter or make an adapter to drop it in first...

@Uwe has a great video that I used for this I'll post the link shortly , It's not the exact same machine but I was able to remove the parts to get the thread from underneath and reassemble using this vid, I have an Adler 67-273

lol, my thoughts exactly on the shipping, I'm not sure how intensive it would be to redistribute from here, but would be open to help out if possible.

I could definitely use them, especially for the dopp kits, but shipping from Australia would probably suck...lol

you'd have to account for the 10yrs inflation prices...

looks like chicago screws and a leather loop to hold the d-ring, i've seen them pancaked around the wing or on top...this is an awesome and beautiful piece!

Agreed, the 15 class bobbin and thread size typing out at 92 makes the price point a no go for my taste, decent little machine but I can get similar results for way less money.

So there are literally hundreds of different options and opinions given your criteria, It sounds like space is the primary constraint due to the apartment, followed very closely by price, and then finally the specific application. From my perspective and given your criteria, i'd look for a singer 15-91, only because this would be the machine in my stable i'd use for this. Mine came in a cabinet, but you can find them with the portable case and cover, but if this meets your needs, most newer quality 15 class machines would do the trick. Assumptions here are that you don't mind sewing at normal speeds ( don't require a servo/speed reducer etc) and you'll be sewing in straight lines, and thread size is not a major factor. I use #92 thread in my singer with an 18/110 leather point needle and sew wallet pockets and straps etc with garment leather, and sew zippers to 4/5oz vegtan for lighter applications. The issue here is, i got a lucky break with this singer, the potted motor and internals are all in great condition, and have been serviced regularly. If you're not up for rolling the dice, go to your local sew shop and see if they will present you some options. We have one local here, and they've always been great, knowledgeable and helpful. Consider this if you require support on a machine if it acts up, breaks down etc...

I am waiting for them to unbox it, but tandy has a new leather stitcher and it's made by sailrite...no info yet other than cost and it comes assembly required...lol

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=round+braid+leather here you go...it's how i learned...

you could use a flaring tool...other than not having a bench mount it's fairly similar to the round lace makers I've seen, i used it as Rockoboy stated, wet the leather and find the closest size then run it through, may even use some saddle soap on there to hep things along ;-)

Looks good!