GatoGordo

I am curious as to the reasoning behind blue guns being illegal.

I, also, like the spacing, but I think it would look better with a finer thread.

I have to agree with Montana Leather. While, in my experience, they all bleed, they do it to a different degree. While some are barely noticeable, others are more pronounced. Just this week I was making a stock shell holder using a piece of gold suede that I purchased just over three years ago. While sewing my thread turned yellow from the dye!

I did a Google image search to see similar bags with rivets. In my opinion the rivets cheapen the look. They may be appropriate for Harley Davidson but the OP's bag without rivets looks far classier and more refined.

You can download an STL file of the PPK from thingiverse.com. Printing that would be easier than trying to create a wooden form from a picture.

Don Gonzales made a video showing the technique.

I have 3D printed a few guns. The cost is around $2.00 to $2.50 for a Glock 17. Smaller guns will be less, larger guns more.

While I have made one (almost) flat-back pancake holster, that is not the standard. Here is an image of an Avenger holster. You can see that the leather is not flat, but wraps around the gun. The leather is then molded to the gun both front and back. There is also the problem of the reinforcement panel. I have no idea how one would stitch the reinforcement panel in place after molding.

I was questioning the fourth post where toxo states: Why not just wet mould - dye - stitch - two coats of 50/50 Resolene? I don't understand how to get and retain any detail if the stitching occurs after wet molding.

Just to clarify: I understand this type of procedure with a pocket knife or something with little detail, but with a handgun that has lots of curves and indentations, I don't understand how wet molding before stitching can capture and maintain that detail.

I don't understand this method. Are you saying that you create some kind of mold, then shape the two halves of the holster, then dye, and finally sew? How do the halves fit together? Can you point me to a video of this method so I can actually see it? The method I use is: Dye, cut, sew, wet mold, finish.

@blueduck thanks for the information. I did as you suggested and cut off a small spot and gave it a try. The dye and oil worked fine, but I do not have any wax for the final step. I will figure out something to try tomorrow.

I recently purchased an ostrich leg crust and am not sure how to process it. Do I dye with regular leather dye? If so, then how? Dip dye, dauber, block dye, or something else? Do I need to add some kind of conditioner or oil?

Thank you for the explanation.

Beautiful as is all your work, but I have a question. The opening of the swivel snap is facing inward. Doesn't that present an opportunity to harm the horse?

Amazon? https://www.amazon.com/Combination-Aluminum-Die-Casting-Carpenter-Zinc-Alloy/dp/B09ST7JH73/ref=sxin_17_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.749943ff-94bd-4679-8f03-3b5488f65fae%3Aamzn1.sym.749943ff-94bd-4679-8f03-3b5488f65fae&crid=3QFTPGDEUT3EJ&cv_ct_cx=combination+square&keywords=combination+square&pd_rd_i=B09ST7JH73&pd_rd_r=a841d05e-d2b2-4b78-98a4-beb3668d1e69&pd_rd_w=03qEC&pd_rd_wg=ZDikM&pf_rd_p=749943ff-94bd-4679-8f03-3b5488f65fae&pf_rd_r=A7GEB13EAXHXS0KWBK58&qid=1687009754&sprefix=combination+square%2Caps%2C183&sr=1-2-2b34d040-5c83-4b7f-ba01-15975dfb8828-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&psc=1

I say throw it out and start over. Speaking from experience, it is likely that in one of your attempts to force the tablet into the case you will break the tablet.

It is just some plastic fabric to reduce the bulk of the wallet. Maker's Leather Supply uses, and sells, Tyvek for this purpose.

I purchased the leather from Maverick Leather, but they no longer sell what I purchased. It was a Golden Rod Dearborn which is described as Glovey/Soft. They currently have four different colors of Dearborn with black the thickest at 6oz. I would consider the other three to be too thin, but you might like it if you think the thicker leather might be too heavy.

The completed apron is only about 2.5 lbs so not heavy at all. I use it primarily when dying, but I wanted something thick enough that it would provide some protection when doing something a bit more intense.

I made my first apron with vegetable tanned leather. I found this to be too stiff and uncomfortable. Every time I bent or sat down, the leather did not want to do the same. I thought it would break in in time, but it never did. I made a second apron with the same pattern, but this time I used a soft 6/7 oz chrome tanned leather for the body. This one is comfortable, bends with me, and I wear it exclusively over the vegetable tanned.

3:10 to Yuma. Worn by Russell Crowe in the film. And the pattern is by Will Ghormley.

I was a bit curious about this so I checked with FedEx Office. For an A0 print (approx. 3'x4') their price is $9.

Wow, you are right! I used to buy Angelus dye until they stopped selling it in pints. Just checked and they no longer ship to California.

The problem is the VOC level. This is limited by the California Air Resources Board (CARB). Fiebing's Pro dye is a definite no no. For the Leather Dye, some online vendors will sell it, others will not. There is a similar problem with the Fiebing's Antique Paste. Some vendors will sell it, others will not.