RevMoore

If you decide to let them go individually, let me know. I would be interested in the Glock 19 mold. Thanks.

As always, that rig looks exceptional.

Is there someplace this download still exists?

Thanks for all your thoughts. I was just spit-balling as I saw something in a game and was curious as to if it would be possible and if it would even be in the realm of financially plausible. Probably best if I stick with just improving my tooling general leatherworking skills before I try to add more to my already overflowing plate.

Does anyone have any experience with using an embroidery machine on leather? If so, what machine(s) would you recommend? Does it work well? What thickness of leather will you machine go through? I was think it may be a nice way to make some leather products really stand out..

Clean as it gets.. I am also interested if the diamond border was carved or stamped.

I used painters tape a while back, and it did not keep it from stretching. I have since ordered Gaffers Tape, but haven't had a project that required extensive tooling to test it out...

Thanks to all for the kind words. As always I will endeavor to always get better even if that is through making mistakes to learn from. I'm sure more pics will follow.

When I started my leather odyssey a couple of years back, I in typical me fashion decided to go big. So, I developed an idea inspired by the gladiatorial armor from the Spartacus shows. I figured along the way, I would learn and learn I did as I can see a huge difference from where I started to the parts I am producing now. The general idea was Gladiatorial armor cobbled together from parts of vanquished foes armor. Every thing on here was created by me other than the welder's sleeves that I built my sleeves onto. I started with the Right sleeve which was a metric F-ton of punching the scales out with with English belt tip tool and 1/2 in Hole punch. then stamping them all with a crossed axes stamp before edge painting them (no sanding heat... I had no idea what I was doing and that was well before I found this Forum). then the were all riveted to the sleeve. I then made the body of the piece to mount the sleeve onto. Followed by the Original Collar pieces and the Right Shoulder pad adorned with a reaper Skull, and some lettering as well as some spikes. I then set it aside for a while before rekindling my interest in it and working on the Left Sleeve which I talked about in another post (I believe labeled Armored Sleeve). The most recent parts were the new (I replaced the oversized and quite basic original ones) collar pieces. I inlaid some scrimshaw on plastic of Viking Symbols (Vegvisir and Aegishjalmur) and stamped in the English words Honor and Glory translated into runes on them before. I am currently in the process of attempting to make a Sode (Samurai shoulder armor) for the Left Shoulder and possibly a spine guard to cover over the lacing in the back. I'll also, re-slick and burnish the (body) straps as I had no idea how to burnish when I started. Sorry there is no pics on me wearing it, just my gorgeous Model "El Silla". Any questions and or criticisms are welcome as I am continually trying to improve.

Very well done.

Very well executed.. and if possible, I would like to get on this pattern train.

Curious to know the information for this such as cost, brand/name, and where you purchased it..

Gents, Thanks for the kind words. Like I said I'll post more as soon as I can.

Thought I would show a Sleeve I made for a set of armor I have been working on for a long time (over a year). The sleeve 11 segments all hand tooled with my own design on 7-8 oz veg tanned leather with the back side being 2-3 oz veg tanned leather. Roses and Vines/Leaves were all dyed with a paint brush using Fiebing's Pro Dye (red and green respectively). The Backs are all dyed red as well. The inner portion was dyed Saddle Tan. The border and straps I believe were dyed either Walnut or Show Brown (I can't remember).The skull and cross bones were painted with Angelus white leather paint. I then put a couple of layers of Super Sheen on before everything was antiqued, then a couple more layers of Super Sheen was applied. Front and back were glued together and then everything was hand saddle stitched with Ritza red and a little bit of white (.8mm I think). Edges were dyed black with a sharpie after sanding and before burnishing. Grommets were picked up at a local hardware store. The back of the straps were then slicked down with Tokenole before the edges were burnished. D-rings and Snap Rivets were picked up at my local Tandy Shop. It is hard to see, but each strap has two D-rings so they work similar to a motorcycle helmet. Straps are used thru the Eyelets and through holes on a repurposed welder's sleeve that I dyed a darker brown. It has since been mounted to the Armor, but that is still a work in progress, I am sure more pics will follow as I get a chance finish the Armor and upload more pics. Please feel free to comment with criticisms as I am slowly working to hone my craft. ...Some day I will be the coolest nerd at the Renne Faire...

Exquisite work. A true showing of what can be done with time and the desire to better one's skills. Top notch all the way through..

Just playing around on Power Point, but this is what I was thinking...

Super clean work. Something to aspire to..

I have read here before that leatherworkers put tape on the back of pieces that they are tooling so as to keep the piece's size/shape from distorting. I was just wandering what kind of tape works the best. I can tell you it most certainly isn't painters tape (its what I had readily available and I figured it would come off easily) as by the time I finished tooling a belt the backing piece no longer matched the front (tooled). This then cause the groove made for the stitches to become wonky... I ended up not stitching it and laced the whole belt with roo lacing instead.. This was a blessing in disguise as I think it ended up looking better in the long run.. Attached are pics of the belt. The buckle was my mothers from when she was in High School in the 60s (I think).

Good luck. And post some pics of the finished result.

I have done some knot work with paracord on a walking stick in the past. If I remember correctly, I used really small finishing nails to anchor them in place and then hid them under a turks head knot. A thought, (PLEASE CORRECT ME IF I'M WRONG) you could try soaking the leather. then braid it. when the leather dries it will shrink a bit and form to the stick. I would like to see the finished project either way..

All of my stitching is with Ritza "Tiger" thread. I usually use either the .8 or the 1.0, though I believe they also have a .6 and a 1.2. Buying a spool can be expensive but I feel like I will never run out. I think I'm up to about 5 different colors out of the 15-20 colors that I have seen. There are also people that sell off smaller amounts on Ebay if you only need a little bit of a specific color for a project.

Looks awesome. Do you have any pics from the front and back, just want to see how it is all held together?

Thanks Grey. I used the rings since I think I may eventually make a gridle/warbelt (think renn faire costume) to strap it onto. Plus, with it being put together with Chicago screws and only using semi-permanent lock tight, I can always replace the rings with a more traditional leather belt loop at a later date.

So, here are some sheaths I made for some drunken pandemic purchases from CRKT. Tomahawk sheath is still a bit tight around the handle. Put together with Chicago screws and hand stitching. Tried something new with the Provoke (the Kramabit). Wet molded it using my vaccuum sealer I bought for my sou vide machine (cooking stuff). Had to put a thin piece of trash leather "face to face" with the leather so that it didn't take the texture of the inside of the vaccuum sealer bag. Question I had for the more experienced, is when wet molding and tooling, which order does it go in. Do you wet mold and then tool while the leather is still on the "mold"? Or do you tool the leather and then delicately wet mold? Either seems difficult. p.s. sorry the pics are poor quality. still working out the kinks of using http://shrinkpictures.com so i can upload more than one at a time.