kgg

I am not familiar with the thread you are using as it compares to "V" size but since you are using a #18 needle I am going to assume it's V69 or max V92 equivalent. If it thicker you will need to go up to the correct needle size. What I found best for my Juki 1541s was to have the needle on the upstroke, stop the machine raise the foot off the material using the knee lift and carefully turn the material 90 degrees so as not to bend/deflect the needle also will I keep my bobbin tension normally a little more on the high side of tight. kgg

Works ok with Cyberfox. kgg

Two things you can't get way from Taxes and Death, that's right they have a tax on that to. kgg

Try Chris at Japan Sewing in Richmond Hill Ontario CA (905) 764-0100. kgg

This I think is a mechanical problem not a needle problem. Techsew should help guide you through correcting the problem.

The one on the right appears to be the same as the one in my Juki 1541S (I have it in my hand) however it could be the angle of the photo but it appears to be missing the flat bluish coloured tension spring that puts pressure on the bobbin. The one on the left maybe specific to the Consew line or someone changed it. I agree with Wiz that the mechanic should be notified and he/she has made a mistake. kgg

If it is a Glaco-Astra machine I would check with Texas Sewing Machines Distributors in Texas as I think they are sold them. kgg

I think the forum overall is pretty damn good and the slow access periods are mostly on my end. Depends on what else we are doing both on/off line (me/son/wife) are doing at the same time. Some of the slower responses are probably more dependant on the number of registered users/guess users that are accessing the site at one time, their method of accessing the internet (phone lines/cable/cellular/ etc), computing power and whether the users provider is throttling back because of the number of users on their system. There are just so many variables taking place behind the scenes that a user may not be aware of why access sometimes to a particular site is slower that day then last week. kgg

For the presser foot issue is this similar to the problem you had previous with this machine?

This is really nice work. True art. You and your wife should be proud of it. A lot of work and stress as if it didn't come out right you may have been moving to the dog house. kgg

What some of the things I would look for would be: i. overall condition of machine / table ii. does it sew properly iii. is there any crunching / grinding noises when sewing iv. is there excessive machine vibrations / shaking while sewing v. excessive side to side slack in the needle rod and the foot vi. is the motor overly noisy or you get a burning smell vii. large amount of rust or signs of wear on the shafts / bearings in the bottom of the machine viii. does reverse work and does the needle reverse back in the same holes created when sewing forward. kgg

I agree with Bikermutt07 doing work this way is the best way. With every project I find there is always one step that I will hate and I mean hate doing but by doing multiple copies in an assembly type process I get through that step all in one go. Get it out of my system so to speak then back to the enjoyment without thinking I got to do that _____ step again. kgg

I happen to notice a cute video of someone this morning who needed a longarm flatbed sewing machine for her quilting. She re-built a Singer 66 into a longarm for her needs. On her blog she has some pictures and steps of how she did it. I know it's not for leather and may not last but I thought it was a pretty ingenious solution to reuse an old machine with some basic tools. Use /Abuse/Reuse kgg

It maybe just the angle of the photos but to me it looks like your machines stitch length is not consistent even on the straight runs. I would first remove the top thread from the needle then take a piece of paper and do a straight run of 12 stitches with the motor, measure the distance between each hole and then do a straight run of 12 stitches by hand wheeling them through, once again measure the distance between each hole. All the holes whether they are made by using the motor or by hand should be the same. If the stitch length is a little iffy it may explain why the tension problem on the bottom. kgg

I am not sure how many bells and whistles the Durkopp had or has but if it has /had a panel for functions I would be very vary of accessibility to and the cost of them down the road. I would give serious consideration to a cylinder bed (new or used) machine with a flat bed attachment it may give you the best of both worlds. I would also go visit a dealer or dealers with samples who are knowledgeable with setting up a machine for your leather work needs. Buy once, cry once. kgg

A really nice job on the holster. kgg

I agree with bikermutt07. Holster type thickness/thread/toughness is going to require a completely different machine then what would be required to do a wallet. No one machine is going to be able to give or be able to give constant results over a large range of materials / thickness / toughness, you will be forever fiddling with changing threads, needles, tensions, feet, binders, etc. I think you need to consider multiple machines, if the budget allows, and set them up to do the task that they do best. That way once they are tuned in every time you work them it should/will give constant results. Less hassle, more enjoyment, more productive. kgg

I agree with chrisash that it would make a nice basic straight stitch machine without all the bells and whistles for someone to get their feet wet. All it probably would need is some good oiling, a fresh needle and some thread. If your wife fines she doesn't like sewing or after she gets more self confident / experienced then sell it. Better to learn the basics on an inexpensive, forgiving machine first rather then spend a lot of dollars up front only to find you don't have the temperament/patience or whatever to get the most use out of the machine. kgg

You can still get new Mini Brute's from Sailmaker's Supply new for $648 US, which seems a bit high to me and really don't look much different then most of the available portable walking foot machines. Similar new machines in Canada run about $600 Canadian. kgg

I only have two suggestions about your site. Need an "About Us" tell a little story highlighting the main stuff like location (close to the beautiful/historic ...), sole owner/operator, experience those types of things and more "Contact" info where you are located so that people can easily see you are in the US, phone number, hours of operation. All the above due have their pros and cons. kgg

If I remember correctly someone had a Techsew 1460 with a similar problem and Ron at Techsew got him fixed up. kgg

Contact the company you purchased the machine from. It looks like it was dropped hard to go through the packing and create holes in the plywood. kgg

I like your glue pot, simple and effective. All you need to do now is get the cost of the top down. Wow what a difference between the Amazon US and Canadian sites for the same simple item. That is why some of us Canadians who live close to the border (1/2 hour drive) have a American address for companies who won't ship to Canada and for companies who offer free shipping within the US. It wouldn't be feasible for one small purchase but on the larger or multi items it can save you a lot. kgg

I would pass on the offered domestic portable machines. Yes all three can on occasion get you out of a bind but that would be it. You can even get a walking foot thingie for some of them. I think going to a domestic and trying to make it work will be at best a frustrating venture. I do agree that RJLamie does need a different machine for light weight leather work and machines being offered are what someone has in their store but neither are going to be suitable for a number of reasons (thread limitations / reliability / durability / feed mechanism). If budget or space are a concern I do agree with chrisash that a low cost portable walking foot machine capable of using the 135 X 16 needles would be better suited for light industrial use. For the price of a Sailrite portable walking foot you could probably get a new clone industrial walking foot machine / table/ servo motor but for under $500 new there are many other options available like a Consew CP206R, Reliable Baracuda, Techsew 611 to name a few. Then there is of course the used market. The minimum requirement I think would be that the machine be a walking foot. kgg

Is this a new machine to you or a recent problem? I would unthread everything both top thread and bobbin. Check that the needle is installed correctly with the scarf in the right direction and fully seated. Reinstall top thread checking thread removal from the spool, tension / paths from the spool to eye of the needle. The needle must have the long groove on the left and threaded from left to right. Then thread a different fresh bobbin checking for correct thread tension and correct direction of how the thread is being removed from the bobbin in the bobbin holder. Then I would hand wheel it through a dozen cycles with fabric under the foot while holding both threads for the first couple of stitches. kgg