kgg

It is a shame that there are no industrial lockstitch sewing machines made in North America that I know of. For the hobbyist and small leather businesses the bottom line is "dollars do matter" which leaves most people (particularly the hobbyist) with two options, purchasing a used machine or a clone. I really like the Juki line of machines but it must be noted that not every Juki is made in Japan so ask before buying. I do have a China made Juki and in my option it is not the quality of the one made in Japan. I looked for three years for a used Juki TSC-441 and could not find one that wasn't bet to death probably because most are used in a commercial environment. This left only a couple options: i) suck it up and cough up the 10k to buy a new one or ii) purchase a clone. I finally broke down and bought a 441 clone. kgg

My take on your sewing woes: i) The Alder 269-73 can only handle V92 thread with a max 130 needle. So trying to sew thick or tough materiel / leather with the incorrect size needle for the thread is just going to create problems, thread being shredded, skipped stitches, needles breaking, etc. ii) The needles you showed in the photo are for fabric not leather as denoted by the "R" in the bottom left hand corner of the label. A reference for needle points can be found at: https://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=needle-information#Leather_Points iii) A good reference chart for thread to needle combinations can be found at https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html kgg

Typical problem when the thread is to large for the needle or their are burrs on the thread guides or needle as well as needle inserted incorrectly. What size of thread are you using? How thick is the items you are trying to sew? kgg

The info that I have seen for the 269 sub class 73 is that it is rated for 130 (#21) needle. Since your machine was converted probably to a 135 x16 system, as the needle that came with the machine is shorter, you will still be limited to roughly a 130 max size needle to provide proper needle to hook clearances. What is it that you want to sew with what size of thread? kgg

As long as it is of the correct needle system for that machine (with a few exceptions) and the size of the needle is within the limits of what was specified for that model of machine. If the needle that came with the machine is shorter then the new ones chances are that someone converted the machine to 135 X 16 needle system. kgg

Yes that is the needle system of those Gross-Beckert needles. If you still have the needle the machine came with. Is that needle longer, same or shorter then the new needles? kgg

Just be honest with yourself and how it will fit into your needs / wants. The machine maybe in excellent working condition but not fit your needs so the better decision would be to walk away. Check the machine for: i) thread grooves wore into the thread guides to help determine the amount of use the machine has had ii) amount of thread lint buildup on tension discs and in the shuttle race to help determine the amount of care or lack of. iii) any side movement of the needle bar and any needle strikes on the needle plate iv) abnormal sounds (banging / clunking / scraping) when machine is sewing at both slow speed and the machines max rated speed. v) the machine reverses into the same holes that were made during normal forward sewing vi) take a tape measure and measure the distance from the needle to the closest part of the body to determine if that throat space is going to be enough for sewing your items kgg

The needle system is only one part of the equation the other part is the size of the needle and the machines manufacturer determined the max size of needle for that machines needle system for that machine. i) Depending on age of your machine and sub class you are also limited to a 130 (#21) needle which is good for V92 ( 30 ) thread. The needle you have shown is a larger 140 (#22) needle. Check your manual to see what is the max size of needle will fit your machine. ii) Your machine was converted at some point to a 135 needle system. On the top line at the right where it says "Nm 140/22" tells what size of needle. The 140 is the metric size and 22 is the US (Singer ) size of the needle. The larger the size number the stronger the needle is, has a larger eye to allow for larger threads. kgg

The cost on this side of the pond would run for an Durkopp-Adler 969 north of $9000 USD while a machine like the Cowboy CB4500 would be around $3000 USD. Also Durkopp-Adler is owned by a Chinese company, ShangGong Group who also own PFAFF. So the justification for not buying a Dürkopp Adler as I would see it: i) There are a lot of dollars to be saved. ii) Availability of parts which are much cheaper. iii) Availability of accessories which are also much cheaper. kgg

The machine looks in decent condition. If it is in good working condition my max would be $1300. So you now have a price range of range, $1300 (me) to $1500 (Wiz). If possible like Wiz said do a demo and take along an item what you figure would be the largest lengthwise that you figure you would be sewing. That way you would be able to judge if the machine has enough throat space for what you want to sew. Also here is a link to the Artisan Toro 3000 brochure: https://artisansew.com/pdf/specs/TORO_3000.pdf kgg

This is a class 441 machine with a small cylinder arm having around 9 inch work surface using the 794 needles. The actual work surface maybe less it depends on whether it is measured from the end of the cylinder arm or the needle to the body of the machine. Having such a short work area may pose a problem with some items. A machine with a 16.5 inch cylinder arm would be more versatile. I think this model was replaced by their 3200 model costing around $2600 new. With other machines like the Cobra and Cowboy there are narrow needle plates, presser feet and feed dogs available to allow those class 441 machines to sew thinner items, closer to the edge, use lighter thread thread then the regular / standard ones will allow. I don't know if they will fit the Artisan machines. It is hard to determine whether this is a good deal without photo's it will depend on things like working condition, visible wear on places like the thread guides and your local area and maintenance. Buying a used machine is just like buying a used car. Two machines of the same age, one used in a commercial setting that was bet to death versus one used by a hobbyist will command different prices. I wouldn't go 65 percent the cost of a new machine, maybe 50 percent if it was in really nice shape. Just my thoughts, kgg

This is a older Consew model as the new version is RB-55. To get the most out of the machine for your sewing needs you would really need to add a servo motor. A servo motor will give you the slow speed control needed with a very short learning curve where as a clutch motor is much, much more difficult. This upgrade will probably run about $200 and is worth every penny. That will drive your price up to about $950 and new Consew RB-5 will be about $1500. I would look for a newer version or just bite the bullet and spent the extra for a new one. Without seeing the machines condition etc if the price of the machine was including the cost of replacing the motor in the $500 range, maybe. For doing wallets the RB machines should be quite capable but purses may pose a challenge depending on style, thickness of leather, thickness of seams, type of leather and size of thread. For doing circular type items you would be better off getting a cylinder arm machine (new or used) with a flat top attachment. That way you would be able to sew the flat items like wallets with the flat top attachment installed and cylinder items with it removed. I would suggest looking at Juki 341/ 1341 or clone. You should take a few minutes and read the article by Wiz Do you have a photo of the machine? kgg

The thread according to the label and their website ( https://www.ctpoint.it/en/products/twisted-yarns/penny/ ) is a polyester 3 ply thread. I have a feeling it is not a bonded polyester just a twisted polyester. Glad you figured out the problem. kgg

Not quite obsolete just yet are the flatbed's Japanese Seiko SLH-2B, the Cowboy / Hightex 733C machines as well a bunch of other Chinese clones. They are still using the Schmetz 1000 needles but those needles may prove to be difficult to get. Those machines maybe able too sew in the 1 1/4 " thickness range for strap material but leather could be something else. kgg

I would advise rethinking the Singer machines as they are getting a bit long in the tooth and for some models parts are difficult or impossible to get. I would recommend looking for Juki machines or their clones as parts, accessories are relatively inexpensive and in a lot of cases easier to source. I would recommend for the range of items you listed: i) Wallets and belts can be done on flatbed like a Juki DNU-1541S or cylinder bed machine with a flatbed attachment like a Juki LS-1341 typical max thread is around V138 and about 3/8" max material thickness ii) Bags / totes are best done on cylinder bed machines like Juki LS-1341 iii) Holsters and Sheaths need heavy iron in the Class 441 machines so you would be looking at Juki TSC-441 (real expensive, 10k) or clones like the Cowboy 4500 machines typical max thread is around V415 and about 7/8" max material thickness. If your budget allows get a flatbed for the wallet type items and a Class 441 machine for the holsters and bag items. If the budget will not allow, you can't or don't want more then one machine I would probably going for a Class 441 with a table top attachment and the new needle plates that allow for sewing with those machines thinner items with thinner thread. Remember No one machine will do everything. Which country are you in so someone could recommend machines and dealers? Buy Once, Cry Once kgg

Since the problem occurs when you reverse I would check and see if the forward and reverse stitch match. Without thread in the needle: Place a piece of heavy paper under the presser foot and sew a seam for say 6 inches then reverse. The reverse holes should match, going through the holes that you created in forward. There should be no variation of spi from the first part of the seam and the last part. This will also allow you to accurately measure spi the machine is actually sewing versus what your stitch length dial setting is saying. kgg

My take would be: i) The thread size 10 is the same as V277 and for that you need 200 (#25) needle. ii) The needle being a 180 (#24) is good for V207 (15) thread but in thick tough sticky stuff it would be better to use V138 (#20) thread. iii) The thread sliding through the eye of the needle is only one part of the equation. The needle also has to make a hole large enough to allow the thread not to be caught by the material to allow it to form the loop properly so it is caught by the hook. iv) The needle seems slightly twisted and the @Dwight detail would definitely help with needle alignment. If the needle is twisted one way or the other the top thread being caught by the hook maybe a problem. v) It maybe the photo but are you using a proper leather point needle it appears the tip is round which would be used in fabric. vi) A good thread to needle size chart can be found at https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html vii) If the material is tough or thick or sticky you are probably going to have to move up a needle size from what's is being recommended. kgg

Love the name. kgg

I figured I would mention the noise part as a lot of people live, sort of, in apartments and the noise / vibration of a compressor might make for unhappy neighbors. That should be interesting, you will become very conscious about all your electrical loads. If being off grid is going to be a new installation you will be better off, electrical wise, of over sizing your solar panels or generation. kgg

The price in France is really expensive as compared to what they are going for in Canada. The price for a used Juki LS-1341 in France at 2000 euro plus the cost of a compressor or $2930 CAD is a lot higher then what they can be had at a dealer in Ontario at $1650 CAD plus 13 percent sales tax for a total of about $1865 or about 1270 EUR. The one in the example comes complete with table and servo motor. Example: https://dixietailoringsupply.com/product/juki-ls-1341-used/ I would definitely ask to have the pneumatic system removed for three reasons i) expense of the compressor / hoses ii) more items to maintain / replace iii) noise and vibration of the compressor particularly if you are in an apartment which sort of defeats the quietness of having a servo motor. I forgot to ask how thick including overlapping seams that you will be sewing and with what size of thread? kgg

You may want to try putting the item under the presser foot so you are say about 3 stitches from the end and instead of sewing forward along the direction of your intended stitch line sew the item towards what would be the normal starting point, lift the presser foot turn the item and then sew back through those stitches in the direction you want to go. Doing that will lock the stitches and you will only have two layers of thread as compared to doing what a lot of people do when they a machine with reverse. Example with a machine having reverse: Typical way: Start the line of stitching, go three stitches forward then reverse to lock stitches then forward again to continue on doing the stitch line. Those first three stitches will have three layers of thread, 1 forward, 1 reverse and 1 one forward again. A method to reduce the number of layers of thread in those first three stitch holes is to start in 3 stitches on the intended stitch line, reverse stitch 3 stitches and then forward again too do the seam. So you get 1 layer of thread in the reverse direction of stitches and 1 layer of overlapping stitches in the forward direction to lock the stitches. kgg

How true. Depending on how the pneumatic presser foot lift was installed you probably could remove it and revert back to the standard mechanical operated foot lift. The Juki 1341 / 1342 came with both the front mounted knee lift and a foot pedal operated mechanical lift. What is the going price in France for a used Juki LS-1341 / 1342 machine? kgg

My take on the Juki LS-1341 / 1342. i) newer updated version of the Juki LS-341. A lot of the clones that are labeled LS-1341 are actually clones of the older Juki LS-341. Both the 1341 and 1342 have: The Same i) size cylinder bed 72mm (2.84 inch) diameter, ii) length of cylinder arm 255mm (10 inch) iii) large capacity bobbin iv) thread size capacity, rated for V138 v) needle system 135 x 16 or 135x 17 up to a 180 needle (#24 needle) vi) weight the same at 37.5 kg Their Difference i) Max sewing speed of the LS-1342 can sew 500 sti/min faster then the LS-1341 ii) LS-1342 has an optional smaller needle plate iii) The main difference is you can change the stroke of the presser foot and walking foot by a knob on the top of the machine for getting over multi layers Note: The Juki machines rate their machines for what thread it will sew with for both the top thread and in the bobbin not what size of thread you can stuff through the max size needle you can put in the needle bar. A 180 (#24) needle will take V207 thread and will handle it in the bobbin in thinner materials. This information is for the Juki LS-1340 series machines can be found on the Juki website: https://www.juki.co.jp/industrial_e/download_e/catalog_e/ls1340.pdf The information on the nameplate being scratched off is worrisome. Why?? The machine is missing a couple of things that I see i) Knee Lift probably because the machine is installed on some aftermarket or homemade table top ii) the bobbin slide cover is missing iii) bottom cylinder cover appears to be missing but it is hard to tell from the photo iv) Top thread post guide pin missing v) No thread stand for the top or bobbin threads You might want to check the main drive belt for wear as I see the bottom cover on the cylinder arm isn't seating quite right and may have been removed to do repairs. No kgg

A couple of more manuals for your machine: i) https://www.manualslib.com/products/Sunstar-Km-380bl-3906793.html ii) https://www.manualslib.com/manual/970676/Sunstar-Km-380bl.html kgg

Take your belt and go to either a sewing machine dealer, Canadian Tire or Homepot and either get a the proper 3V belt or a 3L general purpose belt. If you choose to go the measurement route add about 1 1/2 inch (37mm) extra to your measurement as the length on the belt is the outside diameter so you have to allow for the thickness of the belt. kgg