kgg

Couple of additional questions: i) What thread size are you using? ii) What size of needle are you using? iii) Are you using the same size thread in the bobbin as you are in the needle? iii) Have done a test of the stitches in forward verses the stitching in reverse? This is done simply by putting a piece of paper (heavier stock or cardboard) under the presser foot as if you were going to sew but without the thread in the needle. Sew as normal for a few of inches and then reverse. This will tell you if the forward and reverse stitch is the same as the needle should fall into the same holes as what was made in the forward direction. It will also tell you that the stitch length you have selected is actually what you are getting. kgg

A couple of simple formulas: 1) Horsepower measured in HP or Watts where 745.7 watts equals 1 hp 2) Horsepower = Voltage (measure in volts) X Current (measured in amps) 750 watt motor would have a max current draw (not including any inrush on startup) of: i) 3.4 amps at 220 volts ii) 6.8 amps at 110 volts 3) Horsepower = Motor speed in rpm X Torque measure in Nm or lbf-ft / 7127 (metric) or 5252 (imperial). OR i) HP = 0.000140304 x T(Nm)*rpm ii) HP = .000190403 x lbf-ft x rpm kgg

Interesting your signature links to Wattsan a Chinese manufacturer of laser and CNC equipment with "An Lee" as a their CNC Specialist. kgg

Definitely, but sometimes it does happen. kgg

They would have been better to have a done a pre release review like a lot of computer companies do when they are about ready to release new hard drives/ chip sets / coolers / motherboards / etc to qualified reviewer users. kgg

I liked how they use a block and tackle to help move the sail material forward while sewing. Those are really nice sewing machines and I would guess cost a pretty penny. kgg

While you are checking with your Engineer please also ask if the motor and or components are CE, UL or CSA approved. kgg

The Consew 205RB and the Juki 1181N are similar and I have done this on my Juki 1181N. What I have done is slowly reverse back to a couple stitches before where the bobbin thread ran out, pull back the access / slack top thread back through the top tensioners, replace the bobbin and pray it works. Doing this may work depending on the material and thickness. If it doesn't work there is going to be at least a mess, possible machine locked up and possible damage to the bobbin area. The safer way is to remove the item and get the bobbin thread up, put the material back and place the needle back down a couple / three stitches back from where the bobbin thread ran out, hold both the top and bobbin thread for a couple / three stitches and slowly stitch until you get into fresh material. Unless you have changed the stitch length the stitches should fall into the same stitch holes. kgg

I would say you have a disconnect between the Engineering guys and the Advertising guys. The information so far is really not helpful. There is no way the numbers work out even on 220 volt systems as the motor tested was made for EU systems. To use their motor on a 120 volt system the amp draw would be approximately twice or according to their figures 320 amps. Most new homes in North America only run 200 or 225 amp main services. kgg

Must be a typo. If it pulls 16 amps on startup it may pose a problem for some 15 amp main circuit breakers particularly if they have anything else on that circuit. So I am going to assume you meant to say 1.60 amps. At 4.43 seconds into the video the nameplate is for Voltage : AC 200 -240 50-60 HZ so what is the expected current draw on the standard North American household voltage of 120 volts on a 15 amp circuit or does this motor require a dedicated 220 volt 20 amp circuit. kgg

Must be a typo. If it pulls 16 amps on startup it may pose a problem for some 15 amp main circuit breakers particularly if they have anything else on that circuit. So I am going to assume the OP meant to say 1.60 amps. kgg

Damn nice, congratulations. kgg

I would have too consider: i) The machine Ferdco Pro 2000, is not a Juki TSC 441 but a Taiwan clone. Keep in mind a quote from Keystone Sewing website on the history of these machines from back in 2018. "The Pro 2000 was designed by Ferdinand JeanBlanc in 1991 using a Juki 441 frame from Juki USA. In 1995 we went to a Tiawan manufacturer and had the 441 changed to our new specifications which we use now. Once the casting is delivered to us, we convert the 441 into the Super Bull Pro 2000 that you see advertised today. You may be familiar with some of the other proceeding versions of the Bull or heavy stitchers Ferdinand has designed and built in the past. These would be: The Chandler 305 Bull - From 1964 to 1968 The Alder 105 Bull - From 1968 to 1979 The Adler 205 Bull - From 1980 to 1985 The Ferdinand 900 Bull - From 1985 to 1993 The Juki Pro 2000 - From 1993 to 1995 And the Ferdco Pro 2000 'Super Bull' - From 1995 to Present” ii) the price difference between the two machines iii) availability and cost of parts and accessories In the end I would probably go with a new or newer Cowboy 4500. kgg

Great question, as some people have had problems in the past when trying to combine a speed reducer with a needle positioner on a electronic controlled servo motor. I didn't see one on the second machine with the speed reducer. Since price is always a factor what is the price of the servo motor and needle positioner? kgg

My cardinal rule for auctions whether live or online is set a price and if it goes for one penny over that amount let it go. Online auctions are so much easier then live as you usually have a few days to do a spread sheet of the items of interest. I use a spread sheet where I can plug in what I want to bid and see what the actual out of pocket expense with the Buyers premium and taxes calculated versus typical retail / used market prices. kgg

The prices lately for the online auctions are generally becoming expensive as it is too easy to hit the Bid button without thinking of the additional 30 percent charges at the checkout. New 29k clones in Ontario can be had from Amazon.ca ( https://www.amazon.ca/INTBUYING-Industrial-Machine-Leather-Stitching/dp/B09VXL421L/ref=sr_1_28?crid=5NS7O28M43WS&keywords=leather+sewing+machine&qid=1664988624&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI1LjQxIiwicXNhIjoiNC42MyIsInFzcCI6IjMuNzgifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=leather+sewing+machine%2Caps%2C119&sr=8-28) for $739 plus 13 percent sales tax from an Ontario based company. Quality ???. kgg

I do browse some of the provincial auction sites as you never know when a good buy maybe had. Today there was an ex factory online auction with a couple of items that did catch my eye. There were Pfaff's, Alder's and a couple of Juki's most with ELKA's. 1. a repainted SINGER 144W204 sold for north of $800 plus additional 29.95 percent for the hammer fee and provincial sale tax so north of $1039 CAD 2. a SINGER 29K62 with possible missing / broken drive rack, connecting drive rod not connected sold for north of $1150 plus additional 29.95 percent for hammer fee and provincial sale tax so north of $1494 CAD kgg

Some of the problems with the servo motors has to do with the number of internal coils the motor has. The more internal coils the better low start control you will have. I think maybe installing a speed reducer may help overcome this bottom end startup problem. I run 550 watt brushed servo motors with the simple knob limiter and no speed reducers on all my machines like Wiz has suggested. kgg

If money is no object, you want the best and plan on using it get either the Juki LS-1341 (~$5000 USD) or the Juki LS-1342. The Techsew 4800 is more of a clone of the Juki LS-1342 then the Juki LS-1341 but with a saving of about $1500 USD or so. If you are not going to use the machine a lot then maybe look at getting a good used Juki LS-1341 or a LS-341. In Ontario Canada used they typically go for about $1500 -2000 CAD ($1100 - 1500 USD). You have not said where you are located but since this is going to be a substantial investment whether you decide to go Juki or a clone go to a brick and mortar dealer and test drive some machines with your stuff. kgg

Can't help with a supplier but I just wanted to say those bags are damn nice. kgg

Agree. Hopefully he gets the parts quickly. kgg

According to what I found on their website they encourage the repairs to be done by the owner. From their website: ( www.techsew.com/en/help-center/do-you-offer-a-warranty-on-your-machines/ ) " We offer a Limited Lifetime Warranty with free technical support on all industrial sewing machines and skiving machines. All parts are guaranteed for 1 year by Techsew, except for consumable parts such needles, bobbins, bobbin cases, needle plates, presser feet, feed dogs, needle bars, belts, thread guides, and hooks or shuttles. The motor is guaranteed for 1 year. We encourage you to maintain and repair your own machine, and we offer free technical support (by phone and by email) for the life of your machine should you require assistance with adjustments and repairs. Damage due to improper use, neglect, impact damage and normal wear from use of the sewing machine are not covered under this warranty. In the rare case that your machine needs to be returned for repair, you will be responsible for delivery costs and fees both ways. Customers are strongly encouraged to keep the original box and packing material for the machine head, should it ever need a repair. " kgg

Excellent point. The reason I mentioned using a socket style is that some of the "T" style wrenches are shall we say less then and can twist like a cork screw leading too both the wrench tip and bolt stripping out. Guess how I know. kgg

You may find using a "T" style angle key like shown in the video may twist depending on how tight the bolt was originally installed. You may want to consider using a 6mm angle key socket and racket with a short extension to eliminate possible twisting / striping problems. kgg

Here is a good cross reference needle size to thread size chart provided compliments of Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines: www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html If I'm not mistaken your machine can handle up to a #24 needle so in thick or sticky material you will max out at V138 thread with that needle size. Some vinyls are more sticky then others. I would go one needle size up for want is recommended for the thread size you select to give a little extra space in the hole so the threads (top and bobbin) don't catch on the material. Do a test run with the max number of layers of vinyl, like crossing seams, you are going to be sewing through and see what works best. Also bonded nylon will be slightly stronger then bonded polyester but bonded polyester will stand up to UV better. If you use a larger top thread then the bobbin thread for looks the strength of the seam will be that of the smaller bobbin thread. kgg