kgg

Their newer ones appears to be available in 3 models: 1) light to medium model DLN-5410NDD-7 takes #9 - 18 needle with a max stitch length of 4mm with a presser foot lift of 10mm and 13mm by knee with a max speed of 5000 spm 2) Medium to heavy DLN-5410NDH-7 takes #20 - 23 needle with a max stitch length of 4.5 mm with a presser foot lift of 10mm and 13mm by knee with a max speed of 4000 spm 3) For Jeans DLN-5410NDJ-7 takes #20 - 23 needle with a max stitch length of 4.5 mm with a presser foot lift of 10mm and 13mm by knee with a max speed of 4000 spm Since these are high speed fabric machines chances are that at some point in it's life it was used machine in a commercial setting where it was used and abused. For me any machine that has electronics would be a no go unless they were basically giving it away. You know the electronics are going to fail at some point and replacement parts are going to be expensive if and a big if they are available and even salvage electronic parts are expensive. Electronics are really made for production work where speed directly relates to dollars while the hobbyist speed and those 1000 different stitches / functions really aren't necessary in the majority of cases. My question is do you really need all the functions that the electronics offer or is it a want? Also you never mentioned your budget but most importantly what is the thickest amount of material in the seams of folded material you are planning on sewing. I would suggest: 1) Look at machines with no electronics what-so-ever on the machine itself or the motor even a new machine, brand name or clone. 2) Get a clean plain jane setup, sewing machine and servo motor from a brand name company. Which Juki is. 3) Don't buy a machine just for what you are planning too sew today but later down the road where you go from say nylon backpacks to 21 oz canvas cushions. 4) A good starting point if you just want a drop feed machine would be a Juki DDL-5500 (new c/w table and servo motor ~ $950) but you are really limiting yourself when trying to stitch and feed across or through multiple layers of material. 5) I would suggest looking at a walking foot machine like the Juki DU-1181n (new c/w table and servo motor ~ $1400). Then there is of course the used market where you can save some dollars. kgg

I think this could be couple of simple things that can be easily check: Since you say the machine head is running smooth I would check and see if it is either the servo motor or the speed reducer by removing the belts from the speed reducer to the machine and servo motor and then depress the "go pedal". i) if it doesn't whine like before then it is probably a bad bearing in the speed reducer. You could try and oil the bearing but if the bearings are bad replace you have to replace either the bearings or the whole speed reducer. ii) If it whines like before then it is the motor and if it is a brush type replace the brushes in the motor. If it is an electronic one then I think you need to replace the whole servo motor unit. kgg

I don't have any plans but found a couple of links which maybe of some help: 1) Singer Class 7 with pneumatic reverse and Efka servo motor ( www.youtube.com/watch?v=u1RGcViVqc4 ) 2) Singer 7-31 with reverse and 7-33 hand wheel (https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/79636-singer-7-31-with-reverse-and-7-33-hand-wheel/) photo's of backside reverse 3) The Reverse Feed Lever/Button on the Singer Model 353 Genie Sewing Machine ( www.youtube.com/watch?v=dYOx1U7Cs24 ) principle of how a reverse level works 4) Patents of reverse add-ons ( Link1 ) ( Link2 ) kgg

The PFAFF 60 is a domestic sewing machine made for sewing fabric not leather even through it was probably advertised as a "heavy duty" and or "industrial strength" sewing machine. I am sorry to say the PFAFF 60 machine is probably great for V69 thread and you maybe even able to squeeze V92 thread through it for fabric but it will not sew 8 oz of leather. Hopefully you can return it or keep it for other things. kgg

Nice repurposing. I must check my old clutch motors. kgg

I think you are over thinking this. If you are using a fabric needle to sew the 12 oz waxed and are not having any problems with the seam on the folded over sections of the waxed canvas adding some patches like at the corners with some 2 - 4 oz leather is not going to cause any problems or a pocket. If I am sewing 21 oz canvas I will probably go up a size larger then I can get away with for the size of thread on the needle anyway but haven't had any problems with attaching upholstery weight leather to the 21 oz canvas. Try sewing a scrape of leather in the weight you are planning on using to a double or triple folded piece of canvas as see what happens. kgg

I have thought of carrying one myself but my own limited investigation is that in Canada you can own one but and it is a big but if you use one on a dirt bag to protect yourself you maybe charged with Assault with a Weapon, Possession of a Weapon Dangerous to the Public Peace and / or Possession of a Concealed Weapon. Then the dirt bag if you are convicted will probably sue you. Where as simple weapons of opportunity like a pencil / pen / keys maybe treated differently. Choose wisely before carrying as the law tends to be on the side of the dirt bags. kgg

Have you tried it with a sample of a wet form leather to recreate the bag corners? If it still happens then it properly has to do with how you are trying to sew the welt around the corner. Maybe a pressor foot tension issue, to tight a space for the pressor foot, uneven surface or ???. kgg

My suggestions would be dependent on your level of education 1) If you have formal training : i) Textile Technician ii) Textile Technologist iii) Textile Engineer 2) If you haven't been formally trained but have done an apprenticeship as a Tailor: i) Tailoress 3) If you have no formal training: Textile Artisan or Artisan kgg

Sorry I missed that. I would check for a burr like trash treasure suggested. First I would start with the simply change of the needle. Who's needles are you using? When I sew 1000d ripstop I find that I have to change the needle more often as it seems to dull the tip quicker. I find if I use bonded polyester thread rather then bonded nylon it can have a tendency to occasionally fray as the polyester is a little softer particularly when doing a 90 degree turn. I figure it's when I bury the needle and physically turn the material. I figure the material must be slightly catching / deforming /scratching the thread. What type of thread are you using and who makes it? kgg

What kind of machine? kgg

Thank you kgg

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I like my tools to be multi functional, it's cheaper on the pocket book and takes up less space which leaves more room for other things. kgg

I would definitely use my drill press not as a drill but just as a press. I would simply install a hole chisel in the head. For me it would be easier on the arms and with a simple alignment fence on the bed of the drill press the holes would always be aligned with the outside edge of the leather. Since you can set the downward travel of the head and the height of the bed you would get consistent chisel penetration. The only thing is going around corners you may have to change to a single or double tooth chisel. You could also use a press similar to the: i) Amazon at $169 CA which I don't think would give constant alignment of your holes as the head can swivel around the support arm and it would be only a single purpose machine. ( www.amazon.ca/dp/B07TBKGFBW/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?pd_rd_i=B07TBKGFBW&pd_rd_w=ov56M&pf_rd_p=8e308614-8b7b-45e9-9526-75d8e163854c&pd_rd_wg=vxfZ1&pf_rd_r=RZBGPHJ7K41F0NFTQT3C&pd_rd_r=a1ccbbd1-5dbd-4acb-9e8c-e50e934d47a5&s=kitchen&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExVEhZNzlUWElUMUlOJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDUyMTMzM0tKWDNVNVBOTDdXNyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzgyNDM2M05IOUlCMEtINVoxUSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1 ) ii) Tandy's Craftool pro hand press ( www.youtube.com/watch?v=SKWkyJg510g ) My attitude would be use whatever works best, gives constant results with equipment that hopefully has more then just one function. kgg

I think it is a 45w-53. It is one of oddities of being a left handed sewing machine made for left handed users as indicated by the thread tensioners, thread path, the location of the pressor foot being on the inside and the tilt of the foot drive peddle.If you got a better picture of the oval nameplate it would be easier to confirm. kgg

For all those who want to try and use a pulley to reduce speed on their machine here is a easy online calculator for both single and multiple pulley configurations: https://www.blocklayer.com/pulley-belt.aspx kgg

You never mentioned what the purchase price was. The best case would be too get a quote for re manufacturing / repairing / installation labor of the damaged part and subtract that from the purchase price. Worst case is the value it would bring as scrape metal. kgg

What I see: First photo of the turn. i) If you started your seam from left to right: your got 3 stitches that were long then two longer stitches then one medium length then nine short stitches then it started go go all over the place until you basically got back on track on the straight run on the seam on the right hand side ii) If you started your seam from right to left: nice straight stitches of uniformed length and then they begin to go all over the place as you enter the turn before finally starting to straighten out. Second photo of the turn: i) At the point of your stitches where they are going off the pressor foot impressions are not visible like of those where the stitches are good. The thread tension appears to setup nicely. I am guessing the problem lines in: i) The amount of pressor foot tension where it is not holding the leather down with the necessary tension to allow for slight turning deviations as you start and work through the turn. ii) Using a right hand side pressor foot versus a left hand side pressor foot. iii) The stitch length adjuster is able to move ever so slightly up and down which maybe caused by the stitch length locking surface isn't machined perfectly to the stitch length indicator surface. Are you using the same pressor foot configuration as the one shown in the video?? kgg

There are few reasons that I know of: i) Sometimes people just like the look of the larger thread on the top side where the addition strength of the top thread wasn't necessary. ii) The machine wasn't designed for V138 top and in the bobbin sewing but you can cheat sometimes if you use a smaller bobbin thread as it is easier to haul up the smaller V92 thread through the larger size hole created by the larger needle required for V138. iii) Their is misinformation out on the web that you should use one size smaller thread in the bobbin then that of the top thread. v) You can get more thread on the bobbin to reduce bobbin changes. vi) Worn or damaged parts that create tension issues. kgg

Glad they helped. A little cleanup and she should be good to go. Best of Luck, kgg

The replacement parts tend to be expensive, there were and are other name brands that are as capable but cheaper with more available servicing/sales locations. I guess even the color scheme and style of the machines also probably had an effect on their sales as they tended to look drab. kgg

This may help, I don't see a pump. https://usermanual.wiki/ACE-EASTMAN-PDF/Consew206Rb4PartsBook.1436973753 khh

Check out the topic on the forum by Uwe it should help: PDF: Adler 167 Service Manual kgg

What size of thread and needle combination are you using? kgg