kgg

Like Wizcraft all I can say is holy shit, I have never see that one before. This would be a good example of what damage a safety clutch can prevent in the sub 441 class machines. Looking at the photo's I would also check everything associated with the driving of the bobbin assembly all the way back to the main drive. Like most machines these days it's probably made in China or Taiwan (Republic of China). kgg

The main question is what are you planning on sewing as this may not be the best option for what you want to sew. kgg

Yes, I use that saying all the time but for the number of times I need to go over the capabilities of my existing machines the investment for the more popular 441 class machines is not cost effective. i) Cowboy 4500 the $4000 CAD plus shipping plus taxes, duty and brokerage fees ii) Cobra Class 3 the $4200 CAD plus shipping iii) Techsew 4100 the $4000 CAD plus shipping iv) Unknown brand TSC-441 at $2500 Where as a Juki TSC 441 will cost about $10,000 CAD the last time I checked. So a new one armed bandit by Cowboy (Outlaw) and Tippmann (Boss with Reverse) become alternatives at about $2000 CAD. kgg

Pastor bob is probably looking for something able to handle both thick layers and the ability to use larger threads (+V207) at a reasonable price. I figure I have the lower end pretty well covered off but I am debating on adding a one armed bandit for those times things are just a touch to thick or I would like to add a larger sized thread but I can't justify the cost of a 441 class motorized machine. kgg

I feel you pain. My take on this would be that the Alder and Singer are older brand name flatbed motorized machines while the Cowboy Outlaw is a cylinder arm one armed bandit that I assume is a new machine. The price to me seems high for both the Alder and Singer machines. The Cowboy will take up less space and another thing is parts and accessories for the both the Alder and Singer are going to be expensive. Of the three you have listed I would choose the Cowboy Outlaw as it is new with warranty / support / accessories. Another option to add confusion to your decision is that another one armed bandit is the Tippman Boss which has a new version that has Reverse for about $1400. kgg

A used one in Ontario sold at auction yesterday for $350 CA or $265 US, which was a bargain. I would try $400 but what you get will depend on the demand in your area. Best of luck kgg

A really good video is one done by Alexander Dyer ( www.youtube.com/watch?v=AH9IStW8aSc ) to show you what this machine is capable of. This is a high speed (2000 stitches per minute) drop feed machine meaning the material is moved along by the feed dog on the lower side of the material and the presser foot on the top side side basically just adds downward pressure to the material. If you need a walking foot machine maybe a Sailrite LSZ-1 or clone would work with a smooth presser foot. kgg

If I'm not mistake the Techsew 1460 is similar to the Sailrite Fabricator and the Consew P1206 which appear to be clones of an older Singer model. An excellent manual with photo's and detailed instructions for your machine would be the Sailrite Fabricator Guidebook ( https://www.sailrite.com/PDF/2016_Fabricator_Guidebook.pdf ). Checkout the "Adjusting the Presser Foot Lift" (page 50), "Adjusting the Vertical Lift" ( page 51) and "Adjusting Feed Timing of the Needle Bar, Presser Foot and Feed Dog of the Outer Presser Foot " (page 52). You may spot something not quite properly aligned / adjusted / rubbing / catching but at least you will have photo's to judge by. Also I agree with Constabulary that you top thread path is not correct but the Sailrite manual should help you sort that out. kgg

I would ask her to email you a photo of her existing glove or style she likes. Better yet would be if she sent you her glove so that way she gets what she wants in the weight of leather and style she feels comfortable wearing. kgg

Buying, new or used, from a local or fairly local dealer can have it's advantages should something go wrong down the road and you can test drive it with your stuff before you purchase it. If it is a used machine bought from a dealer chances are it has been gone through and should be in good working condition. If you decide to buy a used machine Juki would be my choice as parts and accessories are readily available and fairly inexpensive as compared to PFAFF or Alder

In Ontario the price range of $2000 CA will get you a really good used Juki LS-341 possibly Juki LS-1341 or a few hundred less then that of a new clone. Most of the clones like the Kobe LS 1341 and Techsew 2750 are clones of the older Juki LS-341 but the price can vary a great deal so shop around preferably from a local dealer. If you find something you are interested in new or used I'm sure someone here can give you an opinion about it. Your as bad as me. kgg

If your projects are going to be subjected to UV then a bonded polyester thread would standup better then a bonded nylon. The downside to bonded polyester is that is slightly weaker then bonded nylon. A word of caution is that there are limits on what size of needle and thread you can use in any machine. When you go above the recommended max needle size (Juki LU-563 --- #23) the hole in the needle/feed dog plate may not allow the needle to pass through and the spacing from the hook to the eye of the needle is reduced which may cause the hook to strike the needle. When you go above the recommended max thread size (Juki LU-563 --- V138 ) the head spacing of the needle thread and bobbin thread thread is reduced and may not allow for correct stitching as well as putting extra stress on the thread take-up lever. If you need /want to go to V277 thread the Juki LU-563 is not going to be the proper machine you would have to upgrade to at least a Juki LU-1508 NH to allow for the machine to properly accept a #25 needle. kgg

The Juki Lu-563 is an older machine that the spec has being able to take a #18 to #23 needle, 135X17 for material or 135x16 for leather. This means it will accept threads sizes from V69 (Tex70) to V138 (Tex135). It maybe able to accept a # 24 needle to sew V138 in thick tougher material or V207 (Tex210) in thinner. Always use an excellent quality thread like A&E thread and needles like Schmetz which can be purchased from places like Wawak.com. A good cross reference for thread to needle sizes can be seen courtesy of Toledo sewing machines www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html. kgg

The only options I can think of would be machines like Weaver, Cowboy and the Buckle Guy sell (www.buckleguy.com/leather-hole-punch-machine/) for about $1500 - $2000. Cheaper options would be: i) a hand press that would accept the punching dies like a setter press similar to ones used for setting rivets (www.buckleguy.com/bg-setter-hand-foot-press-requires-setter-die-w-screw/). ii) use a drill press with a shaft that is end tapped to accept the punching dies installed rather then a drill similar to the one that the buckle guy sells called Setter Post & Base for Screw-In Dies (www.buckleguy.com/bg-setter-post-base-for-screw-in-dies) These all have their limitations for how far in from the edge of the leather you can punch and how thick / tough the leather is as well as to deep your pockets are. kgg

What I would say for the 4 - 6 oz leather you are using any of the upholstery class machines which will sew up to about 3/8" thick with thread sizes up to V138 and maybe V207. But I do recommend the machines you choose is a compound feed (needle/presser foot/feed dog). A lot is going to depend on whether, for your stuff, a flatbed or cylinder bed machine would be best suited. Another factor is your budget which will help determine if it is going to be a brand name like Juki, PFAFF, Alder or a clone machine. If you want to use threads above V207 or the thickness of the layers are above 3/8" then you are into the 441 class machines like Cowboy CB 243 (flatbed) or CB2500 (cylinder bed) or the one arm bandits like Tippman Boss, Cowboy Outlaw or Weaver Cub. Why not buy or at least checkout industrial sewing dealers like A and B in Alberta / Manson in British Columbia /Japan Sewing in Ontario and save the import/broker/rate of exchange costs particularly if you are buying a clone machine. Even Tandy has decent clone machines. I would recommend going to a industrial sewing machine dealer in Alberta and test drive some brand name and clone machines (new or used) and with your stuff before buying one blindly. Buy Once, Cry Once kgg

I forgot to also note the thread was made in June 1978 so the thread is about 44 years old. You may have problems with the thread due to age and storage over the years. kgg

The info as I read it: i) Military spec ii) Manufacturer: A&E iii) Thread description: Type 1 which is Twisted multiple cord, cable twisted, not bonded, soft finish iv) Class A thread which is general purpose v) Material is 100 % Nylon vi) Thread size "E" which is V69 vii) Spool Size: weight of full spool of thread would be 16oz or 1 lb kgg

Great info. Clearly shows in this example seams sewn along the length in the direction of the load are stronger then those which are sewn across the strap. Another important item is the strength of the thread being used: V69 low end of the industrial threads has a breaking strength of about 11 pounds, V138 about 22 pounds V207 about 32 pounds, V415 about 72 pounds. kgg

Like it. kgg

If you are making or repairing a strap it needs to be certified or re certified so be careful as straps under load are or can be dangerous. If you are planning on making / repairing straps for others or even for yourself that could endanger someone else if it strap fails get certified to do that type of work and good insurance. kgg

I would go with a flatbed then. As far as the thread I have no idea as to what or how strong quilting threads are or how they relate to bonded nylon or bonded polyester sizing. Thread and needle wise I would probably use a V92 bonded polyester thread with a number 20 needle as a starting point to help prevent the needle from deflecting / bending as it goes through the various folds. The machine I would suggest would be a Juki DNU 1541 "S" not the Juki DNU 1541 as the safety clutch feature denoted by the "S" will save you on repair costs when you jam the machine up or similar clone but I don't think you would be pleased with the results of a Juki 1181N or clone. I disregarded the DDL machines you listed as they have to many doodads / electronics and are high speed garment machines. From your list the Consew 206 RB-5, I think made in China, would be a second choice to Juki 1541( made in Japan). A good reference for selecting needle sizes for various threads sizes can be found here: www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html. kgg

Servo motors are about 40 to 60 percent more efficient then a clutch motor and a awful lot quieter. I like to keep my setups simple as possible. Sewing Machine, Drive Motor, Table. The additional cost of $2,000 is the cost of another good machine. The control panel maybe a costly part to replace down the road if it can be had. kgg

The three most common types of how material is feed through i) Drop feed --- feed dog moves material mostly used in domestic and garment sewing machines. ii) Walking foot --- feed dog and presser foot moves material iii) feed dog, presser foot and needle moves material Presser foot lift on a lot of industrial machines has two dimensions. One is when you use the presser foot lift lever by hand and the other is when a machine can have it raised by hand or by a foot/knee/lift cylinder lever. The Juki 1541 is a compound feed machine which has a lever lift of 9mm (3/8") and a knee lift of 16mm (5/8"). The max sewing thickness is ~9mm (3/8"). I have sewn much thicker on few occasions. I wouldn't do it on a regular bases. The Juki 1181N is a less capable walking foot machine which has a lever lift of 5.5mm (~1/4") and a knee lift of 15mm (short 5/8"). The max sewing thickness would be about 1/4". I have both machines and the 1541 hates thin stuff while the 1181N can't really handle thick / tough stuff. A couple of good video to look at that may help: 1) Juki DNU-1541S sewing light, medium, and heavy fabric (www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JES-2I7h3o&t=3s) and Juki DU-1181N sewing light, medium, and heavy fabrics ( www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKJuKTrjsbw&t=302s ). The suggestion of using a cylinder bed machine maybe a better solution then a flatbed machine depending on how the skirt is attached to the upper part of the dress. I would recommend a older Juki LS-341 or the newer Juki LS -1341 or similar clones with a flatbed attachment. When you buy a brand name machine they will always hold there value better to that of a similar used clone machine and will be easier to sell when you upgrade. Think of a used Honda versus a used Lada. Juki is typically what the clones are copied after. Keep your setup as simple as possible. Machine, servo motor, table. The more fancy stitches and other doodads the machine has the more expensive to repair if parts are available particularly control boards later down the road. kgg

Nice. What is the approximate cost? kgg

With so many thick layers I would suggest a compound feed over the straight walking foot machine so the needle also helps move the material along. This will help prevent the layers from slipping / moving as they are being sewn. Having the under the foot clearance is great to get the various materials and the combined thickness of material in and out from underneath the needle but it is another thing to properly sew them. Most upholstery machines are rated for 3/8 inch. Another factor is the size of needle that will be needed so as not to bend / break while punching through that thickness of material. I would suggest taking a sample of what you want to sew to a dealer and test drive a few machines with the size of thread you are planning on using. What size and type of thread are you thinking about using, V69, V92, V138 bonded nylon, bonded polyester ??? I would also suggest starting with something along the lines of a Juki 1541 "S" or Juki 1508 or their clones. Buy Once, Cry Once. Which machine are you looking at? kgg