kgg

To the best of my knowledge every Singer had their serial numbers molded in the frame. Like shoepatcher has noted the one in the background is a long arm Singer 29K ???. The location of the serial numbers can be found on the flat surface of the body just below where the model badge and company emblem were originally. Once you get those numbers you can go to ISMACS International ( https://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/singer_dating_by_serial_number.html ) find the serial number and from that you can find the model model number and the year it was made. You can also do the same for the machine in the foreground since it is also a Singer. kgg

The question I have is what and how thick of material are you planning on sewing? The information I have seen shows that in thick / tough / sticky material a size 21 (130) would be a good choice for V92 thread or in thinner material that needle could be the bottom end V138 thread. If the hole the needle makes isn't large enough the top thread will not form the loop properly and you will get skipped stitches. Also the slightly larger needle will reduce needle deflection in thicker / tougher / sticky materials particularly with zig zag in thicker materials. My experience with doing a zig zag seam, be it with a sailrite clone, is a size 20 (125) is the hole is really a touch too small when I sew above it's rated max of about 3/16" (~4.75mm). This little machine does one thing, edge binding and I regularly sew 7 mm thick material. I did have to make some modifications with a few fancy words of encouragement to get the height clearance under the outer and inner presser feet up to 10mm (touch over 3/8") . kgg

I think we all have had problems in the beginning with one or another machine. If possible a few pictures of your top thread path from the thread spool to the tip of the needle may help in spotting something that may need to be tweaked. kgg

That really is a thin sewing thread and if my calculations are right it is a 3 ply bonded nylon in the range of Tex 23. which would make it a domestic sewing thread size. If they supplied the correct needle for that size of thread the thread is probably breaking rather then fraying as it would only rated to handle a couple of pounds of stress. I would suggest that you get a leather needle 135 x 16 in size 18 and some industrial V69 thread from a place like Wawak.com (https://www.wawak.com/sewing/needles/industrial-machine/schmetz-leather-industrial-machine-needles-135x16-tri-dpx16-d-10pack/#sku=smnl135118 ) and ( https://www.wawak.com/thread/thread-by-use/top-stitch/amann-strongbond-nylon-bonded-thread-tex-70/#sku=atdp1237 ). The needles that came with your machine are for fabric and more then likely of poor / cheapest quality made just to show you it can sew. How thick is the leather you are trying to sew? You also maybe getting needle deflection if the material is to thick. kgg

I looked at your link to the machine and I noticed a couple of things: i) the description states this in it's description " Counting NO: 7MM, sewing system DP*17 16#-18#. " This I interrupt as: 1) can sew a max thickness of 7mm (0.275", just a touch over 1/4") 2) can handle needles from #16 to #18 3) can handle V46 and V69 thread. ii) the description lists it as a " 2972 Leather Sewing Machine " meaning it is a clone of the Singer 29K-72 patcher. iii) the photo's of the top threading are incorrect and you should thread the machine as a Singer 29k-72. The pdf attachment will give you better instruction for your clone machine then you probably got with your machine. kgg 29k71-2.pdf

I would try the simple things first. 1. Replace the needle with a brand name needle, 135 x 16 for leather and 135 x 17 for fabric in the appropriate size for your thread. A good reference chart for needle size to thread size can be found at https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html 2. Make sure the needle is insert all the way in and with the grooves on the side of the needle are to your left. The needle needs to be inserted so the grooves are at the 9 o'clock position. Sometimes you may find in thick material you may have to have the needle twisted ever so slightly with the groove towards either to the 8:30 or the 9:30 o'clock position in thicker / tougher stuff near the max sewing thickness which is about 1/4". Also you will probably have to move up one needle size above the recommended size in thick material so the thread doesn't catch on the side of the hole and interfere with the top thread loop being correctly formed which will cause the hook to miss picking it up. 3. Check to make sure the bobbin cover has the correct size hole aligned with the needle. There should be two hole sizes in the cover plate. 4. Check for any burrs in the needle holes of the bobbin cover plate. What size of thread are you using with what size and type of needle? What is the thickness that you are trying to sew? kgg

Nice to hear. kgg

That is good customer service. So which option did you choose? kgg

I do have one of those cheap Chinese patchers which I fondly call a "Tinkers Delight". If you want a frustration generator go for it. If you would like a 29k clone patcher on a limited budget I think maybe something off Amazon like what is available in Canada new for about $800 cad ($600 usd). Available from for $799 cad: 1. Amazon.ca: https://www.amazon.ca/INTBUYING-Industrial-Machine-Leather-Stitching/dp/B09VXL421L/ref=sr_1_11?crid=208W2UFMBWVPC&keywords=Leather+Sewing+Machine+Sewing+Mending+Machine+Shoe+Repair&qid=1670125739&sprefix=leather+sewing+machine+sewing+mending+machine+shoe+repair%2Caps%2C100&sr=8-11 2. Asc365.com: http://www.asc365.com/SearchProduct.asp?action=search I can't speak to the quality and there probably is no product support but for the price it maybe something to consider. kgg

There two things you need to know. The sewing machines needle system and the needle size capability. The needle system for the Juki 1508 is 135 x16 for Leather and 135 x 17 for fabric and the size of needle is dependent upon the size of thread you are using within it's thread size sewing capability which for this model can handle needles from V46 to V138. The Consew may use the same needle system but without knowing the model number who knows. kgg

The thread is from a excellent manufacturer as well as the needle manufacturer however my suggestions are: i) Change the needle from 135 X 17 which is a fabric needle to a 135 X16 for leather. ii) Change the size of your needle to a minimum #22 (140) for V138 (T135) thread but I would recommend start with a #23 (160) and in thick or tough leather you may have to even move up to #24 (180) needle. iii) When selecting a needle for a particular thread size a good reference chart can be found at ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ) When a needle is to small for the thread the thread loop isn't formed properly as there isn't enough space and so the top thread can get held against the side of the needle hole. That means the thread doesn't form a proper loop for the hook to catch. kgg

I do live in a rural area with my closest neighbour being a kilometer away. Packages for myself and my neighbors get misdirected a lot with Xmass time being the worst. The problem in my area is the drivers are using their stupid phones for directions and not looking at the address marker at the front of the driveways. The worst was I was expecting three pallets loads a few weeks back. The driver pulled into my neighbors drivieway who luckly was at home and stopped the off loading of my delivery. kgg

Glad you got it resolved. kgg

That should catch their attention. kgg

What I gathered from your post: 1) you ordered a machine and some additional items 2) there is an email trail of discussions outlining the machine and additional items 3) all the items are noted on their invoice. 4) you paid for the complete order 5) they deny you ordered and paid for the additional items That is definitely not a good experience from any company. I would email them again with attachments of the emails along with their invoice and ask them to revisit their decision. If that didn't work maybe consider posting on their social media your displeasure (facebook page, youtube channel, instagram). Definitely leaves a bad taste in ones mouth. kgg

That is a good one. kgg

That is a typical price ($1550 cad or $1140 usd) plus shipping for a used Juki LS-1341 in Ontario, Canada. The only thing I would have them really check is the amount of wear on the internal drive belt. I know of one sold about year ago and the belt was in terrible shape. Definitely. If you decide to upgrade or change machines at some point it will be easier to sell the Juki. Can't help there. kgg

Simple things to check: Have you inserted and threaded the needle properly? The long groove should be on the left side and the needle needs to be fully up into the needle bar. As you get closer to the upper sewing limit if the needle isn't set to the 9 to 3 o'clock position it can miss picking up the bobbin thread. Also sometimes you need to reset the needle by twisting it a degree or two. I just had this happen with a portable walking foot after breaking a needle. I replaced the needle and on a test seam on a thin piece of cotton fabric it sewed perfectly. Once I started to sew the 0.53 mm poly binding to the item which was a combination of cotton, double batting and a rubber coated fabric it was sewing at it's max. Twisting the needle a degree or two solved the problem. Have you selected the right hole for the needle size in the bobbin cover? If the hole selected is too large and the material is woolly the material is probably is being force through. Try sewing the same flannel with a piece of thin paper on on bobbin side to keep the woolies from being forced in. kgg

Since most of what you are making can easily be done on a flatbed I would suggest you purchase i) a brand name machine like a Juki DNU - 1541 S ( https://www.sewingmachinesplus.com/juki-1541s.php ) ii) for your bags a cylinder bed machine which probably could handle your hat patches a Juki LS-1341. If I had to choose one machine to cover off what you listed I would look for a brand name class 341 cylinder bed machine with a flat top attachment. If you can afford one a new Juki LS-1341, if the cost is beyond your budget a clone. There are many clones in this class like the Cowboy CB341, Cobra Class 26, Kobe LS-1341, Techsew 2750. Another option of course would be a used machine. kgg

I agree with Wiz and I also didn't know what you were planning on sewing. I would have suggested in a flatbed at least a Juki DNU-1541S or Juki DNU-1508N or clones and in a cylinder bed a Juki LS-1341 or clone with a flatbed attachment. Hope the 8700 does work for you. kgg

The photo of the looks in really good shape and doesn't appear to have been used very much as by the wear on table frame, the foot pedal for the motor, table top, hand wheel or the body of the machine. Appears both machines have a needle positioner which can be set so the needle stops in either the up or down position. Since you are going to look at them take along a sample of the thickest material including any seams you are planning on using and do a test run on the machines and see which would work best for your needs. kgg

The Juki DNU-1541 is a much more capable (rated thread size / sewing thickness) of a sewing machine that can handle much more under the pressor foot then the Juki DU-1181N so there is more or a greater chance of overloading the machine. The better choice between the Juki DNU-1541 and the DU-1181N would be the triple feed but that said my 1541 S hates thin stuff and that is where the 1181N excels in comparison. If you go an to look at the 1541 tilt the machine back and check the underside for items worn drive belt, bearings and build of lint. Amount of oil and color of oil in the small drive gear tank. Check for slop in the needle bar and check for thread wear tracks in the guides to help determine the amount of use. The table needs a bit of TLC but that is not a real big concern. There should be no unusual noises when the machine is running like knocking or banging. The main question is why are they selling the machine as it appears from the one only photo to be in an production environment??? kgg

The Juki DNU-1541 is a good machine but purchasing a used machine is always a gamble. Do you have any pictures of the machine to show what condition it is in? If it is just the DNU1541 and not the Juki DNU-1541 "S" I would probably pass since that model does not have the safety clutch feature. I would also pass on the Typical also as it also does not have the safety clutch. This may not be a problem for you but the safety clutch can save your machine from a expensive repair should you jam the machine up. Depending on the items you are planning on sewing you may want to watch the two following video's to help you decide what type of machine would best suite your needs. The first video is of a triple feed Juki DNU-1541S with the safety clutch and the second is of a walking foot Juki DU-1181N without the safety clutch both with servo motors. The videos show how these machines handle light, medium and heavy fabric. 1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JES-2I7h3o&t=3s 2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKJuKTrjsbw&t=313s If possible buy a brand name machine like a Juki rather then a clone machine. Buy Once, Cry Once. kgg

Also what size of needle are you using as you will probably need a #24 or #25 needle depending on how thick the leather is. kgg

Buy a brand name machine like a Juki. If possible either a good used one probably from a dealer or buy a new clone machine. A new clone would be more cost effective then buying a new Juki LS-1341. The Juki LS-1341 is their replacement to the older Juki LS-341. I would suggest a cylinder bed machine with a flat top table attachment. Used: Juki LS-341 or New: LS-341 clone There are a lot of clones in this class too choose from like Cowboy CB341, Cobra class26, Kobe LS-1341, Techsew 2750 to name a few. However if the Singer 18-3 is in good working order I wouldn't sell it. kgg