kgg

I think you were brewing them for a while and at least they were the smooth ones not the star shaped ones. The main thing is how slow do you want to go and what you are going to set the rpm of the servo motor too. So you will have to play with the pulley sizes on the calculator as well as the rpm of the servo motor. kgg

That is never good, I know first hand that birthing process. Take it easy for few days. kgg

You may have to expand you search radius. kgg

When you checkout the machines tomorrow check and make sure it reverses into the same holes as the forward stitches made. kgg

I did forgot to mention the Cowboy 2500, it maybe be another option as it can handle the middle ground of thread sizing, V138 to V346, but it is a bottom feed machine. Just another thought. kgg

The V277 seems to be the cross over thread size for most machines from the system 135 needles to the system 7 / 794 needles. I have seen the same claims of machines being able to handle V277 thread but with a system 135 #24 needle being the max size of needle their machines can handle. Maybe you can stuff V277 thread through the eye of the needle but I question whether it would sew in 3/8" thick tough leather with V277 in the bobbin. Hopefully someone can clarify that point. A couple of options that maybe worth considering would be one of the one armed bandits (Cowboy Outlaw, Tippmann Boss or Weaver Cub) or something similar to the Cowboy 3500/4500/5500 with the new plate and feed dog setup like RockyAussie came up with. kgg

Saves a lot of time and figuring. I came across this calculator when I had to change the pulley system on my wood furnace a few years back. kgg

I forgot to add the calculator I used for your arrangement so you can decide what arrangement would work with your setup: ( https://www.blocklayer.com/pulley-belteng ) kgg

With the arrangement of the set 1 pulley = 2" (servo motor) with a large pulley = 5" and set 2 pulley = 2" with the machine pulley = 3" (handwheel) then: 1. servo motor at 100 rpm the handwheel will turn at 27 rpm's 2. the center of the pulley on the servo motor to the center of the reducer pulley (2" x 5") should be 10" 3. the center of the reducer pulley (2" x 5") to the center of the 3" handwheel should be 14" 4. the reduction ratio is 1:3.75 at the handwheel kgg

You need to increase the speed slightly so the sanding drum acts like a sleeve drum. The rougher the grid the faster the drum needs to spin or it can feel like you are hooking / tearing the material rather then sanding. Just my experience. kgg

Another rivet option maybe to use copper or steel rivets and cover the backside as fredk suggested or use chicago screws with locktight . That way there is less of a rivet head protruding into the clip area. kgg

I haven't had any problems with the Kobe LS-1341 machine. In this class maybe another one too consider would be the Cowboy CB341. kgg

Yes I do have a clone LS-1341. I went to actually pickup a Juki LS-1341 and I said I'll give the Kobe a try. The dealer sells both the Juki line of machines and his branded clones. Compared to other clones in this class it's a pretty good machine and I find the dealer to be excellent to deal with. Most of the clones in this class are in reality clones of the older Juki LS-341. When I am searching for another new machine I set a 4 hour (one way) travel distance. New machines whether brand name or clone aren't cheap so I think you really should at least have some hands on before buying if at all possible. Before I bought my Juki DNU-1541S I thought I had found a nice clone machine with decent machine reviews. So cash in hand I drove about an hour to that dealer / repair shop and gave it a run. The thing sounded like a bucket of bolts banging around in a 5 gallon metal bucket. Shortly after I drove 3 1/2 hours and bought the Juki. Don't be apprehensive about industrial sewing machines this day and age with the servo motor they are quieter and more energy efficient then the old clutch motor driven machines. They are even easier to operate / control then the small foot pedal operated machines like what the old domestic Singers had or the portable walking foot machines. kgg

I do like the Juki machines and yes they are expensive but they are easier to sell and command a higher resale value while parts and accessories are readily available. They are usually the ones that the clones are copied after and the quality is excellent. I like to get my machines shall we say fresh off the boat and the Juki's right out of the box are ready to work. They have the engineering and quality controls in place right down to proper operating and engineering manuals unlike some clones where instructions are to say the least needing or they refer you to a Juki manual. Since this is going to be your main machine buy the best you can afford and invest in a table top attachment if you decide on a cylinder bed machine for things that are better done normally on a flatbed machine. If most of items you are sewing are better done on flatbed get a new flatbed and pickup a good used cylinder bed for the occasions you need a cylinder bed machine or vise versa. Since this is going to be expensive I would take a sample of the thickest material including seams along with the max thread size that you are going to sew and visit a couple of dealers, clone or brand name. Some clones rate there machine thread capacity by what is the largest needle that can be inserted while Juki actually underrates their max thread capacity so it will take the max size thread in both the top thread and in the bobbin in thick stuff. kgg

The motor moves as well as the drive belt and handwheel. I am going to assume the set screws in the handwheel weren't tighten so the handwheel is slipping on the main shaft. So I would check that first. kgg

If you can afford a Juki LS 1341 cut to the chase and buy one. The PFAFF 335 will have limited attachments available, limit your thread size to maybe V92 as well as parts will be more expensive then a Juki or clone. If you decide on a clone machine choose a dealer that you think will supply the best service. kgg

This is what I done which may give you some ideas: kgg

Any software or hardware upgrade is always a royal pain. I just had to change out my C drive and even with a image of the old C drive it was a pain as I also decided to increase the systems memory as well. It's the little things that will get you every time. kgg

I just used my software and doing this using circles gives excellent transition from the vertical lines but using the arc feature can be a problem without using a horizontal guide line to remove a very slight bulge just above the vertical line. I have seen this type of thing occur with my 3 D printers and too solve the problem the printer software needed some tweaking before it gave a nice smooth transition. kgg

It appears that you are doing the arc from the vertical line to the tip of the arc. Have you tried creating the arc from the tip to the vertical line. I don't use your software but use Fusion 360 which is similar. What I would suggest try is to draw a horizontal line halfway between the top of the vertical lines and where the tip of the arc is going to be so as to keep the bend of the arc on the same horizontal line. This also maybe a cause by the laser not being tweaked as good as it needs to be. Just a thought. kgg

Are you sure it is mildew, not mold or a combination of both?? Mold is usually stronger smelling while mildew smells more musky. If it is mildew which grows on the surface and you maybe able to clean it off if it was caught in time but if it is deep within the fibers it is probably mold. My opinion is whether it is mildew or mold get rid of it both can cause health issues. kgg

As Quade said a 550 watt is the smallest size but should be quite capable of doing the work. The first one noted is of a 550 watt brush type servo motors. The second one referenced is a brushless servo motor with electronic controls. Like dikman suggested to get more stitch by stitch control adding a speed reducer or increasing the size of the handwheel is the way to go. I don't use the brushless electronic controlled servo motors as I like to keep my machines a little more basic, hit the go pedal and the machine runs. Motor will not run change the brush's. The electronics for the motor just adds another layer of complexity of trouble shooting when things go south. Depending on what country your in the brush type servo motors may or may not be as expensive or readily available as the brushless electronic controlled servo motors. kgg

I am probably an odd one as I only use synthetic oil in all my machines, new or old. An example is a Singer 29k-71 (1998) that I did own that also had a helper domestic motor installed before being originally sold by Landis. I did do a short video on how it sounded and the ease at which the machine could be hand cranked. https://odysee.com/@SingerSewing:0/singer:a kgg

This maybe not the ideal machine to start out with but for $40 dollars I can't see how you could go wrong buying it. At some point you will find a need for a patcher. These are pretty versatile machines as they can be can be mounted to any flat table surface and hand cranked or mounted to a proper treadle base. Some of these machine were even driven with a domestic style motor mounted to the rear of the base. kgg

I wouldn't get rid of it. If you want or need a different machine and it is taking up valuable space I would grease the Singer up and break down the treadle so you can properly store it. kgg