kgg

The machine in the video is a Mitsubishi Du-115 which shows the markings on the handwheel to be 0 to 7 for the stitch length. In the video there is a larger distance between the 6 mark and the 7 mark I am wondering if yours had another handwheel installed at some point in it's life or the markings for 6 and 7 are worn off . kgg

I wouldn't hesitate. Those bases alone are worth that price and are hard to come. kgg

Which one, I missed that. kgg

Looks good. Another good place to check for needles and thread is Wawak.com. Example: i) Needles: ( https://www.wawak.com/sewing/needles/industrial-machine/schmetz-leather-industrial-machine-needles-135x16-tri-dpx16-d-10pack/#sku=smnl135118 ) ii) V92 Thread: ( https://www.wawak.com/thread/thread-by-brand/ae/ae-anefil-thread-tex-90-1100-yds/#sku=thd290be ) kgg

To help with this you could fashion up a edge guide mounted to a little table surface. Don't use a magnetic edge guide on the nose area as it will lift the bobbin up and fowl the bobbin stitches. kgg

I think there a lot of these machines are gathering dust in basements as not everyone wants to go through the rebuild, tinkering process. The major downside I think is someone who could really do good items with a proper machine may become frustrated with this machine and consider all sewing machines to be as frustrating only to move onto another hobby. Definitely. kgg

What I see missing on first blush, the top thread tension disks are missing and a broken needle. But the price is right and a good project machine. kgg

I think this is a good point for discussion. I think if the top tension is to much then it puts to much strain on the the take up lever and parts and if the bobbin tension is to much then the bobbin assembly is at risk of damage particularly if the machine doesn't have a safety clutch. I usually just adjust the top tension first if I am assured that the machine is threaded correctly, the bobbin tension is correct for the thread and the needle is new and correct size for the thread size / material thickness. What I do is: i) change my needle for a new project or after eight hours of use or the needle seems dull / struggling whichever comes first ii) refill my bobbin with new thread and do a drop test iii) test seam If I have changed the thread size or changed thread manufacturers I will: i) cut the old thread at the spool and tie the old thread to the new thread ii) remove the thread from the eye of the needle and pull the old thread with the newly attached top thread through to the needle from the needle side of the machine iii) install a fresh bobbin with the new thread size and do a drop test. iv) test seam. If the test seam shows the bobbin thread on top then I first back off the top tension and if the bobbin thread isn't pulled up properly then I increase the top thread tension. Do another test seam and if that isn't correct I adjust the bobbin tension by an 1/8 of a turn. kgg

Very nice work. kgg

When selecting the right needle for the thread I would suggest sizing the needle to the thread. On CowboyBob's website there is a good guide ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). Depending on how thick / tough the leather is you may find that you may have to move up a needle size or two so the loop is formed properly so the hook can catch the top thread. The 135 x 17 can work in softer thin leather but the 135 x 16 is better as the tip cuts through the leather rather then punching through. The 135 x 17 is meant for fabric where you want to separate the fibers rather then cut them. kgg

I like this one from A&E : https://www.amefird.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/5-Thread-Size-Comparison-Chart-2-4-10.pdf kgg

This machine is a zig zag bottom feed tailor machine. Link: kgg

Try Aliexpress there are some aftermarkets stuff available. Search for 106-RP machines as they are the knockoff's ( https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002823365308.html ). kgg

My opinion is that just increasing the torque and needle stroke isn't going to be enough. Getting basically 1/2" rope to be sewn properly isn't going to workout with the machine. I could be most definitely be wrong but I think you need a proper machine for this type of work. kgg

Thank you. I do a fair bit of 3d for all my machines as that is also another hobby of mine. All machines due have their place but.... kgg

Thanks, today the replacement model is a Cowboy CB2500. kgg

More then likely as nylon is stiffer particularly in darker colors with black be more so. What size of needle are you using and what is the thickness you are sewing. kgg

I am not familiar with and couldn't find a photo / spec of the Cowboy Model 5. Do you have a photo? kgg

The thread spool is the blue thing just to the left and under the red scissor scissors holder at the rear. kgg

Yes I moved the tensioners and the second tensioner I use for the bobbin winder. kgg

This is made with a fur / sheepskin sewing machine. Example: finished seam at 2:10 mark kgg

Thank you for posting the link. kgg

I think you should move up a needle size as the top thread loop isn't being properly formed and the hook is not catching it. Sometimes you need to move up a size or two depending on the how thick / tough / sticky the material is. A good chart for thread size to needle size: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html I do have a question why are you not using the same size of thread in the bobbin as the top thread?? kgg

This what my "Tinkers Delight" looks like with 1) front and back side light attachment 2) Presser foot position indicator 3) folding table top attachment 4) adjustable and removable front arm support 5) rear 1 lb thread cone support 6) scissors holder 7) thread guide and the list goes on. Tinker On kgg

That is smart as the "Tinkers Delight" I have is actually the second one from Amazon as the first one arrived as a box of broken / cracked pieces of Chinese cast iron. kgg