kgg

Totally agree with both the thread over the pin, which I have done on my machines with no problems but since you are only using one top thread have you tried using the other tension disc rather then the lower one as the lower one maybe worn and not releasing correctly. I would move the thread controller spring up more to the 9 oclock position. kgg

For the tape try these links to Dacron tape: i) Dacron Polyester Insignia fabric adhesive tape, 20mm: https://www.extremtextil.de/en/dacron-polyester-insignia-fabric-adhesive-tape-20mm.html ii) Insignia Tape: https://www.flymarketkites.com/tape/insignia-tape kgg

The Techsew 2750 is a clone of the older Juki LS -341 and there are many similar clones offered by a lot of different dealers. Since this is not going to be a cheap investment check out a local dealer. Have a discussion with them and take along a sample of the thickest you are planning on sewing along with the thread size you are planning on using so you can test drive a few machines. That way you will know the machine will do what you need. Is one clone better then another in the same class probably little difference. The price can vary greatly but it's the pre delivery prep and product support that will set one clone apart from another. kgg

I would suggest: i) Know how thick is the thickest item as measured over any seam or additional layer? This will determine whether you you need an upholstery class, class 341 or a class 441 machine. Upholstery and class 341will sew 3/8" while a class 441 will sew 7/8". There is also the option of going with one armed bandits, the un-motorized manual machines like the Tippman Boss, Cowboy Outlaw, Weaver Cub that can do 3/4" in V415 threads. ii) Knowing what thread sizes you plan on using. Remember to get a machine rated to not only accept a certain size thread but be able to sew that size thread in both the needle and in the bobbin in max thickness it is rated for. There are some clones that say they can sew xxx size but in reality it is a size down or in thinner material or just for the the top thread. iii) Know your budget? iv) Figure out what machine will be best to do 90 percent of the work right out of the box, flatbed, cylinder bed, patcher, etc. If 90 percent can be best done with a flatbed buy a new Brand name machine like a Juki and either buy a clone or used machine for the other 10 percent. v) Buy Brand name so when you want too sell it you get the highest resale value possible and it will be easier to sell. vi) Remember no one machine will sew everything. Fire Department Sheilds probably will probably require either a Juki LU-1508 (min.) or class 441 machine while your "dainty" items would require something more like a Juki 1181N or domestic machine. That is to far a spectrum range for any one machine. kgg

Ingenious. Great work. kgg

Try these: https://www.manualslib.com/products/Pfaff-341-8830949.html https://www.supsew.com/download/Pfaff/Pfaff 341, 343, 345, 353; 342, 344, 346, 354 Instruction Manual.pdf May help kgg

Is the needle bar showing any sights of rubbing. Maybe try wiping the oil of the needle bar and coat it with something like a permanent marker and run it to see if it rubs off in an area. kgg

I had a PFAFF 1245 it was the old casing that had the coffee yellow body color with the dark brown belt covers. It had the small bobbin. Something to check. kgg

That is way overpriced particularly since you will have to install a servo motor. Servo Motors are: i) quiet, ii) energy efficient using about 75 percentage less electricity iii) gives way more precise sewing control. The PFAFF 335 will not sew: i) 20 to 25mm thick anything fabric or leather ii) you maybe able to tweak the machine like dickman to handle V138 (20) thread but not in that thickness. To sew 20 to 25 mm (3/4" - 1") anything you are into heavy iron and 7x3 needles. I don't think you would be able to stuff that much material under the pressor foot on a PFAFF 335. Your needs / wants puts you in the 441 class of machines. These machines are going to be expensive Juki TSC 441 about 10K CAD, ADLER 869 about 10K CAD and the 441 clones that can sew up to 7/8" are about $6500 CAD. Another option maybe the one armed bandits like the Tippmann Boss or the Cowboy Outlaw or the Weaver Cub if you want to go un-motorized. I would considered revamping the designs, invest maybe in a bell or blade skiver to reduce the thickness of the leather down otherwise invest in heavy iron. kgg

Definitely won't be my first choice but if you can get it on the cheap, in the $400 range, maybe. Changes are it doesn't have a servo motor so add about $200 to whatever the price is unless you are use to using a clutch motor. What is your price range, what size of thread are you planning on using and most importantly how thick is the material you are going to sew? kgg

Last year I bought all the stock of new binders and folders from a sewing machine company that was going out of business at auction. I just went out and checked some of the attachments as the pile is 4' high x 4' wide x 8' deep, so I have a few to catalog. The largest right angle throat opening I have is 6.5mm, sorry not in your size or style. I think you are going to have to have one custom made. There use to be a company in Quebec ( B&J Sewing Attachments ) but they are no longer in operation. I would check with someone like S. Kaplan Sewing Machine Co., Inc. 11 Tichenor Lane, Newark, NJ 07114 ( http://www.kaplansewingmachine.com/Attachments.html ) who does custom work. Expect to pay a pretty penny for the attachment. kgg

Have you considered this style: 1. Tape Edge Binder Head: https://www.cutexsewingsupplies.com/collections/binding-attachments/products/tape-edge-binder-head-for-industrial-sewing-machines?variant=32221822648373 This style if you go down to the spec would give you a 6mm throat opening. Which I think may bolt directly to your existing plate or maybe a configuration made for the PFAFF 1245 like: https://www.amazon.com/Binding-Sewing-Binder-Bracket-Needle/dp/B09M8V6ZRK?th=1 kgg

MtlBiker also makes some really nice bags and maybe able to help you choose a style of machine that he finds works best. He does have a cylinder bed , flatbed and a Sailrite portable walking foot. kgg

Another link would be page 56 of the manual "Stitch Length Adjustment Between Forward and Reverse". Link: " www.manualslib.com/manual/1644613/Sailrite-Fabricator.html?page=56 " kgg

I would check out the Sailrite video at about the 3 minute mark this adjustment may help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z93bfzwAHP4 kgg

Thank you for your kind words. I am glad it was easy to install and works as you expect it to. More coming not just for the portable walking foot machines. I am presently working on two little projects in my spare time. One for a self contained / driven bobbin winder that will be able to wind 3 bobbins at the same time a) class 15, b) M size bobbins c) Class 441 bobbins as well as my bias tape bobbin ii) drop down roller edge guide for the portable walking foot machines. kgg

Doing a quick spec search: Consew 277R-3 Needle system is 135x17 or 16 with a max needle size is #23 and you have to move to either a 277rb-1 or 277rbfs-3 to get the large bobbin. The size #23 needle is good for V138 thread in light to medium material. PFAFF335 Needle system is 134-35LR max needle size is #16 which is good for V69, low end of industrial size thread. Parts and accessories are expensive. Not a popular brand in Canada as compared to other brand names. Techsew 2600 Needle system is135x17 or 16 max needle #23. The size #23 needle is good for V138 thread in light to medium material. Most machines these days can sew slowly right out of the box if they are equipped with a decent servo motor but can be further slowed down with a reducer pulley. If you want dependable, easy access to inexpensive parts and accessories, better resale value then cut to the chase and get either a used Juki LS-341, Juki LS-1341 or new Juki LS-1341. Personally I think the Juki's are every bit as good as the Durkopp Adlers but with better access to more accessories and cheaper repairs at least in Canada. If the Juki's are out of your price range then a clone of the Juki LS-341 like the Kobe LS-1341 (out of Ontario) or Techsew 2750 (out of Quebec) are cheaper alternatives. The thing to remember is Juki rates their machines not by what size of thread you can stick through the needle but by what you can sew in both the needle and in the bobbin as well. The Juki LS-1341 is rated for a #25 needle which is good for V207 but the machine is only rated for V138 thread. kgg

Sunbrella is about .42mm thick for the 271 gsm (8 oz) and up to .736mm for their 475 gsm (14 oz). That is what I calculated it out using the formula: Thickness (mm) = ( GSM (grams per meter) X 1.55 ) / 1000. The binding tape that I am using right now is a poly binding that is sometimes used as strapping and comes in at .56 mm thick. What I have found is that the head of the inexpensive binders when used with the thicker binding tapes you have to open up the exit tips and bend the top half of the binder up slightly. For the thicker binding tapes I typically don't use a swing away as there is always some slop in them and they can wiggle around slightly. Not much but on some corners and depending how close you stitch to the edge it can be enough too throw the stitch off the edge of the tape. kgg

I did look at the binder you linked to, pricey. I do a fair bit of binding using 3/4" to 2" tape widths using single fold and double fold binders. My question is why you want to use a right angle binder to start with as I haven't been able to see the advantage versus the cost myself. Why not just use an inexpensive inline binder on a swing away bracket. I don't use right angle binders. I use the same inexpensive binders on all my machines whether they are flatbed or cylinder bed sometimes with a swing away sometimes without. I use the inline binders for two reasons i) they can be transferred from one machine to another whether it is a flatbed or cylinder bed rather then having one set for flatbed Juki's and one set for the clone cylinder bed machine. ii) larger selection of binder sizes at a much more reasonable cost particularly for the cylinder bed machines ($20 CA versus $120 CA per size ). Example: cheap folder --- https://www.amazon.ca/Baosity-Sewing-Machine-Binder-Attachment/dp/B07MYT94L3/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2P5118P6JRXFM&keywords=plain+tape+binding+folder&qid=1652700698&sprefix=plain+tape+binding+folder%2Caps%2C70&sr=8-5 I also very rarely change the presser foot out and never have needed to change the plate or feed dog to do binding with the cylinder bed. The last time I used the cylinder bed I ran about 500' using an inexpensive binder and now using the same style binder on a LSZ-1 portable walking foot to sew probably that amount or more. kgg

A good chart to start you off with selecting thread and needle sizes would be: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html When it comes to thread and needles you can really go down the rabbit hole real fast. When it comes to machines it is really hard to go wrong with a Juki. kgg

Good choice, you never known when it may come in handy. kgg

Your machine can handle: 1. Needles either 135x17 for fabric or 135x16 for leather 2. thread sizes from V46 (Tkt 60, #60) to V138 (Tkt 20, #20) 3. Max needle size #25 4. Max rated thread V138 Your Needles: 1. 130 (~#20) good for V92 in thinner stuff 2. 140 (#22) good for V92 in thicker stuff or V138 in thinner stuff 3. 160 (#24) good for V138 in thicker stuff but depending on the material you could move up to a 180 (#25) good for V138 in thicker stuff or possibly V207 in thinner stuff. A lot is going to depend on how thick the layers are and how tough they are. Juki rates their machines based on the max thread size the machine can handle in the top thread and in the bobbin not based on the what the largest size thread can fit in the largest needle it can handle. kgg

I took another look at your video and then went to my Juki DNU 1541S and hand wheeled it through a few cycles. Your machines seems to have way more slop in the hook assembly then mine. Maybe I didn't spin my machine fast enough to be able to get what you are getting. I would check the bottom end to see if you have slop in the main shaft and look to see if there are worn, loose or sloppy parts like gears/ bearings /safety clutch not totally seated properly / worn timing belt. Hope that helps. kgg

I posted that link so you could check the condition of the gears in the gear box for wear/slop and whether all your bolts are tight. kgg

Check this video out: Hook timing explained on a Juki DNU-1541S