kgg

I use American & Efird threads mostly but also use Coates. A&E threads are made in both the US and Canada. I have never had a problem with their threads. In Canada I buy directly from them so I think you could also but if not try wawak.com. kgg

To help you decide which way to go, portable walking foot or an industrial sewing machine for the items you want to sew. I would recommend you watch the video's of the Juki DU-1181N (~$1400 US w/ table and motor) and the DNU-1541S (~$1800US w/ table and motor) sewing light weight, medium weight and heavy fabrics. It really is going to come down to what you want to sew, it's thickness, the thread size you want to use and your budget. Juki DU-1181N: www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKJuKTrjsbw&t=300s DNU-1541S: www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JES-2I7h3o&t=3s Buy Once, Cry Once kgg

The portable walking foot machines do have their place for a number of reasons but there are other considerations like you will be limited to V92 thread, the stitch length (stitches per inch) will diminish as the thickness increases and of course the resale value as compared to brand name machines like Juki. I have a LSZ-1 clone which I table mounted and setup for a single purpose in a specific location. I recommend you consider table mounting it in a standard or cutdown sewing machine table or the one that Sailrite offers as you will find it easier to feed items if the table surface is at the same height as the sewing machine bed to avoid material catching on the left corners of the base which the Sailrite comes mounted in. kgg

There are two covers. 1) at the front a flat plate that covers the housing for the all the drive mechanisms driving the needle which is held in place by two screws removing that plate allows for inspection and oiling. 2) the flat plate on the top of the machine next to the hand wheel allows for inspection and oiling / greasing of the drive bevel gears which is held in place by one screw. A couple of links: Manual: www.manualslib.com/manual/505004/Pfaff-145.html?page=20#manual General instruction video: www.youtube.com/watch?v=iuzoN-I6ydI A restoration video may help with redoing the table top: www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMerpCgK1po Looking at the second photo I noticed the belts which appear to be made for other purposes then sewing machines. One has a tooth type profile made so the teeth can engage with the teeth of a gear to give better grip. The squeak could be coming from them as they don't appear to be seating properly in the pully's as their profiles are different then that of the pulley. This may cause a squeal as the belt rubs against the sides of the "V" pulley. Another possible cause is the belt tensions particularly the one going to the sewing machine needs to have a little slack and appears to be bar tight in the photo. A to0 tight of a tension on the pulleys will cause eventually the bearing to wear in the motor / reducer or the sewing machine. I would try to locate the noise by removing: 1) the belt to the sewing machine , remove the top cover by the handwheel and oil the bearing where the shaft goes through the casting to that the handwheel. That bearing maybe dry. 2) with the belt still on the servo motor and the belt to the sewing machine removed run the motor and see if there is any squeal from the reducer pulley bearing 3) with no belts attached to the servo motor run the motor to see if there is any squeal from the motor. 4) replace the belts with new proper belts and adjust the tensions as needed The price for the machine if it is a simple fix would be a good price but if the sewing machine needs a new bearing or other parts they are going to be expensive to replace, if the bearing is gone in the reducer it is going to expensive to replace (new ~$200) and if it is the servo motor pulley bearing gone it will also be expensive (new motor ~$200) while the belt replacements are fairly cheap ($$?? as it depends on the lengths). Also what are you planning on sewing as this may all be mute point as it may not be the best machine for your needs. Lets know how it works out. kgg

Like nylonRigging I would drill and tap two holes to accept 4mm x 0.7 thumb screws in the slide plate. The hole size for a 4mm x 0.7 screw would be 3.4mm. kgg

I would remove the top cover and see if there is a issue in that area. With that cover removed you will also be able to see if the machine was regularly maintained with oil and grease. If it looks dry or parts are worn you have to wonder how well it was cared for. If parts need to be replaced add that cost to your purchase price. If you are in Canada parts are going to be expensive. If you have any doubts about the machine pass on purchasing it there are always plenty of used machines. A photo of the machine would help in determining possible other problem areas to look for and give also give an indication as how hard it was used and abused. If it is an ex factory / industrial / commercial setting machine I would pass unless it was dirt cheap. What are they asking for the machine and where are you located? kgg

Excellent work, nice to see the old iron as good as the day they were made. kgg

I only use your standard bed mounted inline binder attachments on my machines whether they are on my portable walking foot, flatbed or cylinder bed. The main reasons for me using this style of binder attachment are they more cost effective cheaper ($20 vs $200), gives me more flexibility of tightening / closing the exiting gap of the binder for the tape and the ability of using the same binder attachments on all my machines. I find the run off which sometimes happens is mostly cause by my inattention of keeping the material tightly in the binder attachment as I fed the turn, sewing speed, the thickness of the materials edge, the type of binding tape, the thickness of the binding tape and whether it is raw edge or double folded binding tape. I find the bias tape is more forgiving then nylon or poly tapes but is much weaker. Also bunching can be cause by your binder attachment having to large an exiting opening for the thickness of the binding tape so it doesn't give a nice tight wrap. Doing corners particularly tight corners in thicker materials or with thicker / stiffer binding tape I would suggest adjusting the binding attachment a little closer to the needle so the seam is farther in from the edge. I would also suggest doing some test runs with a different size radius's so you can see how you need to adjust the distance from the needle and the best way to feed the item through the binding attachment to get a good result. kgg

Try this link it will give you three options: monportlaser.com/pages/fast-technical-support kgg

I think you may have used the wrong email address try: website: monportlaser.com sales@monportlaser.com kgg

My take on what is happening. I watch your video and the pressor foot is not applying any tension to the material to hold it in place. When sewing in reverse you are basically sewing a second thread into the same hole that was previously created. Without the presser foot holding the material in place the material can lift up between the fingers of the presser foot which creates bunching as well as a bad stitches, etc. The pressor foot needs to be adjusted down farther to the bed or by adding more pressure at the presser foot adjustment knob to hold the material in place. kgg

There is really no rule to changing your needle. I change my needles when I start a new project or after 8 hours of use in most items. But if I see / feel a problem, I change the needle. Sometimes you may get a bad new needle, mostly it depends on the number of layers and type of material being sewn. I just recently had to replaced a needle after only a 150 feet of applying edge binding. Be it the overall thickness was near the limit of the portable walking foot LSZ-1, the needle wasn't a brand name needle and there was rubber with thick poly binding as well as other layers cotton and nylon. The needle was so dull it would prick my finger. Needles are cheap but frustration is priceless. kgg

It might as well have said any flat surface rather then just the Kitchen Table as deep freezers are also great smooth flat surfaces. kgg

Yes they are the correct needle system for leather for your machine. However the needle size nm:140 size 22 for the V138 thread is on the lower side for sewing leather it is more for sewing V92 thread in thicker items. The size 23 needle, I think would have been a better choice. Sewing in thicker leather you may find you will have to move up to even a size 24 should you have problems like skipped stitches. I prefer Schmetz needles to all the other brands but that maybe just a personal preference but they have never given me a problem in any of my machines. A good source for needles is Wawak.com (https://www.wawak.com/Sewing/Needles/Industrial-Machine/Schmetz-Leather-Industrial-Machine-Needles-135X16-TRI-Dpx16-D-10Pack/#sku=SMNL135118 ) kgg

Industrial sewing machine needles are typically sold in a single pack of 10 needles, 10 packages of 10 needles (100 total) and a box containing 5 - 10 packages (500 needles). Just some quick info on how to read the labeling on the packets of industrial sewing machine needles: I am going to assume the machine came with the New labeling for Groz-Beckert needles in small plastic packages: They have the QR code on the bottom right hand side of the label while older production runs don't have this code. Across the top you will see: i) Groz-Beckert highlighted in red: Indicates the manufacturer and just under that you will see: a) On the left top corner: a number something like 763252 which would be Groz-Beckert's needle (NDL) code number b) In the center a large font number indicating the number of needles in the package: 10 c) On the same line to the left will be the size of the needles in the package: Nm 140 / 22. The first numbers indicate the size using the Metric system and the numbers after the slash is the Imperial size of the needles The next line under that information on the left is the most important area of information as it gives the needle system which is based around lenght and diameter size of the neddle. 1) For Fabric it would say : 135 x 17 and under that it would also say DP x 17 2) For Leather it would say: 135 x 16 TRI and under that it would also say DP x 16 D 3) At the bottom left hand corner gives information about the needles: i) The coating of the needle: If nothing is typed just above the needle point type then they would be Chrome-Plated Metal but if it says GEBEDUR it means the needles are Titanium nitride coated. ii) The type of point on the tip of the needle: R or D/ TRI iii) The very last number on the bottom left side is the manufacturers production number. What size of needle are you using with your V138 thread??? kgg

Totally agree with both the thread over the pin, which I have done on my machines with no problems but since you are only using one top thread have you tried using the other tension disc rather then the lower one as the lower one maybe worn and not releasing correctly. I would move the thread controller spring up more to the 9 oclock position. kgg

For the tape try these links to Dacron tape: i) Dacron Polyester Insignia fabric adhesive tape, 20mm: https://www.extremtextil.de/en/dacron-polyester-insignia-fabric-adhesive-tape-20mm.html ii) Insignia Tape: https://www.flymarketkites.com/tape/insignia-tape kgg

The Techsew 2750 is a clone of the older Juki LS -341 and there are many similar clones offered by a lot of different dealers. Since this is not going to be a cheap investment check out a local dealer. Have a discussion with them and take along a sample of the thickest you are planning on sewing along with the thread size you are planning on using so you can test drive a few machines. That way you will know the machine will do what you need. Is one clone better then another in the same class probably little difference. The price can vary greatly but it's the pre delivery prep and product support that will set one clone apart from another. kgg

I would suggest: i) Know how thick is the thickest item as measured over any seam or additional layer? This will determine whether you you need an upholstery class, class 341 or a class 441 machine. Upholstery and class 341will sew 3/8" while a class 441 will sew 7/8". There is also the option of going with one armed bandits, the un-motorized manual machines like the Tippman Boss, Cowboy Outlaw, Weaver Cub that can do 3/4" in V415 threads. ii) Knowing what thread sizes you plan on using. Remember to get a machine rated to not only accept a certain size thread but be able to sew that size thread in both the needle and in the bobbin in max thickness it is rated for. There are some clones that say they can sew xxx size but in reality it is a size down or in thinner material or just for the the top thread. iii) Know your budget? iv) Figure out what machine will be best to do 90 percent of the work right out of the box, flatbed, cylinder bed, patcher, etc. If 90 percent can be best done with a flatbed buy a new Brand name machine like a Juki and either buy a clone or used machine for the other 10 percent. v) Buy Brand name so when you want too sell it you get the highest resale value possible and it will be easier to sell. vi) Remember no one machine will sew everything. Fire Department Sheilds probably will probably require either a Juki LU-1508 (min.) or class 441 machine while your "dainty" items would require something more like a Juki 1181N or domestic machine. That is to far a spectrum range for any one machine. kgg

Ingenious. Great work. kgg

Try these: https://www.manualslib.com/products/Pfaff-341-8830949.html https://www.supsew.com/download/Pfaff/Pfaff 341, 343, 345, 353; 342, 344, 346, 354 Instruction Manual.pdf May help kgg

Is the needle bar showing any sights of rubbing. Maybe try wiping the oil of the needle bar and coat it with something like a permanent marker and run it to see if it rubs off in an area. kgg

I had a PFAFF 1245 it was the old casing that had the coffee yellow body color with the dark brown belt covers. It had the small bobbin. Something to check. kgg

That is way overpriced particularly since you will have to install a servo motor. Servo Motors are: i) quiet, ii) energy efficient using about 75 percentage less electricity iii) gives way more precise sewing control. The PFAFF 335 will not sew: i) 20 to 25mm thick anything fabric or leather ii) you maybe able to tweak the machine like dickman to handle V138 (20) thread but not in that thickness. To sew 20 to 25 mm (3/4" - 1") anything you are into heavy iron and 7x3 needles. I don't think you would be able to stuff that much material under the pressor foot on a PFAFF 335. Your needs / wants puts you in the 441 class of machines. These machines are going to be expensive Juki TSC 441 about 10K CAD, ADLER 869 about 10K CAD and the 441 clones that can sew up to 7/8" are about $6500 CAD. Another option maybe the one armed bandits like the Tippmann Boss or the Cowboy Outlaw or the Weaver Cub if you want to go un-motorized. I would considered revamping the designs, invest maybe in a bell or blade skiver to reduce the thickness of the leather down otherwise invest in heavy iron. kgg

Definitely won't be my first choice but if you can get it on the cheap, in the $400 range, maybe. Changes are it doesn't have a servo motor so add about $200 to whatever the price is unless you are use to using a clutch motor. What is your price range, what size of thread are you planning on using and most importantly how thick is the material you are going to sew? kgg