kgg

Have you tried it with a sample of a wet form leather to recreate the bag corners? If it still happens then it properly has to do with how you are trying to sew the welt around the corner. Maybe a pressor foot tension issue, to tight a space for the pressor foot, uneven surface or ???. kgg

My suggestions would be dependent on your level of education 1) If you have formal training : i) Textile Technician ii) Textile Technologist iii) Textile Engineer 2) If you haven't been formally trained but have done an apprenticeship as a Tailor: i) Tailoress 3) If you have no formal training: Textile Artisan or Artisan kgg

Sorry I missed that. I would check for a burr like trash treasure suggested. First I would start with the simply change of the needle. Who's needles are you using? When I sew 1000d ripstop I find that I have to change the needle more often as it seems to dull the tip quicker. I find if I use bonded polyester thread rather then bonded nylon it can have a tendency to occasionally fray as the polyester is a little softer particularly when doing a 90 degree turn. I figure it's when I bury the needle and physically turn the material. I figure the material must be slightly catching / deforming /scratching the thread. What type of thread are you using and who makes it? kgg

What kind of machine? kgg

Thank you kgg

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I like my tools to be multi functional, it's cheaper on the pocket book and takes up less space which leaves more room for other things. kgg

I would definitely use my drill press not as a drill but just as a press. I would simply install a hole chisel in the head. For me it would be easier on the arms and with a simple alignment fence on the bed of the drill press the holes would always be aligned with the outside edge of the leather. Since you can set the downward travel of the head and the height of the bed you would get consistent chisel penetration. The only thing is going around corners you may have to change to a single or double tooth chisel. You could also use a press similar to the: i) Amazon at $169 CA which I don't think would give constant alignment of your holes as the head can swivel around the support arm and it would be only a single purpose machine. ( www.amazon.ca/dp/B07TBKGFBW/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?pd_rd_i=B07TBKGFBW&pd_rd_w=ov56M&pf_rd_p=8e308614-8b7b-45e9-9526-75d8e163854c&pd_rd_wg=vxfZ1&pf_rd_r=RZBGPHJ7K41F0NFTQT3C&pd_rd_r=a1ccbbd1-5dbd-4acb-9e8c-e50e934d47a5&s=kitchen&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExVEhZNzlUWElUMUlOJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDUyMTMzM0tKWDNVNVBOTDdXNyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzgyNDM2M05IOUlCMEtINVoxUSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1 ) ii) Tandy's Craftool pro hand press ( www.youtube.com/watch?v=SKWkyJg510g ) My attitude would be use whatever works best, gives constant results with equipment that hopefully has more then just one function. kgg

I think it is a 45w-53. It is one of oddities of being a left handed sewing machine made for left handed users as indicated by the thread tensioners, thread path, the location of the pressor foot being on the inside and the tilt of the foot drive peddle.If you got a better picture of the oval nameplate it would be easier to confirm. kgg

For all those who want to try and use a pulley to reduce speed on their machine here is a easy online calculator for both single and multiple pulley configurations: https://www.blocklayer.com/pulley-belt.aspx kgg

You never mentioned what the purchase price was. The best case would be too get a quote for re manufacturing / repairing / installation labor of the damaged part and subtract that from the purchase price. Worst case is the value it would bring as scrape metal. kgg

What I see: First photo of the turn. i) If you started your seam from left to right: your got 3 stitches that were long then two longer stitches then one medium length then nine short stitches then it started go go all over the place until you basically got back on track on the straight run on the seam on the right hand side ii) If you started your seam from right to left: nice straight stitches of uniformed length and then they begin to go all over the place as you enter the turn before finally starting to straighten out. Second photo of the turn: i) At the point of your stitches where they are going off the pressor foot impressions are not visible like of those where the stitches are good. The thread tension appears to setup nicely. I am guessing the problem lines in: i) The amount of pressor foot tension where it is not holding the leather down with the necessary tension to allow for slight turning deviations as you start and work through the turn. ii) Using a right hand side pressor foot versus a left hand side pressor foot. iii) The stitch length adjuster is able to move ever so slightly up and down which maybe caused by the stitch length locking surface isn't machined perfectly to the stitch length indicator surface. Are you using the same pressor foot configuration as the one shown in the video?? kgg

There are few reasons that I know of: i) Sometimes people just like the look of the larger thread on the top side where the addition strength of the top thread wasn't necessary. ii) The machine wasn't designed for V138 top and in the bobbin sewing but you can cheat sometimes if you use a smaller bobbin thread as it is easier to haul up the smaller V92 thread through the larger size hole created by the larger needle required for V138. iii) Their is misinformation out on the web that you should use one size smaller thread in the bobbin then that of the top thread. v) You can get more thread on the bobbin to reduce bobbin changes. vi) Worn or damaged parts that create tension issues. kgg

Glad they helped. A little cleanup and she should be good to go. Best of Luck, kgg

The replacement parts tend to be expensive, there were and are other name brands that are as capable but cheaper with more available servicing/sales locations. I guess even the color scheme and style of the machines also probably had an effect on their sales as they tended to look drab. kgg

This may help, I don't see a pump. https://usermanual.wiki/ACE-EASTMAN-PDF/Consew206Rb4PartsBook.1436973753 khh

Check out the topic on the forum by Uwe it should help: PDF: Adler 167 Service Manual kgg

What size of thread and needle combination are you using? kgg

I like the video and hope you have good luck with the contest. kgg

Really like how you revamped the singer base to accept the motor and reducer. kgg

I like the way you set the Boss lower so you could create a table top surface for it. kgg

The prices during these times are all over the place. In Ontario, Canada private sales for an original Juki LU-563 with a clutch motor people are asking between $500 ($390 US) to $1000 ($780 US). Before Christmas Juki LU-563 machines in private sales were lasting a weekend before being sold now some are still listed after three weeks. I did sell my PFAFF last summer for $500 ($390 US) with a clutch motor in good physical and mechanical condition and happy to get that for it but it took a few months to get rid of it as PFAFF's aren't very popular. Me, at $800 US I would probably pass on that machine to find an original Juki LU-563 and not a rebadged Juki LU-563 or seriously consider buying a new Juki DNU-1541S for about $1800 US. kgg

What I understand: JUKI 1) Juki LU-562 there two models (one with and one without reverse) 2) Juki LU-563 there were three models ( one with reverse; one without reverse; one with reverse and 10mm stitch length a LU-563-3) 3) Juki LU-562 and LU-563 use the same needle system and could accommodate needle sizes from #18 for v69 thread to #23 for v138 thread for both the top and bobbin thread 4) Juki LU-562 and LU-563 had a pressor foot lift of 4mm by hand and 10mm by knee lift 5) Juki LU-562 and LU-563 had a 7mm max stitch length except the LU-563-3 that had a 10mm max stitch length 6) Juki LU-562 had a 3000 spm rating while the LU-563 and LU-563-3 had a lower rating of 2500spm 7) Juki LU-562 had a small bobbin 8) Juki LU-563 and LU-563-3 had a large bobbin with automatic lubricating Reliable 1) Reliable MSK-1245 is a clone made in either China or Taiwan of the the PFAFF 1245 not an Alder. I think the Chandsew is a rebadged Juki LU-562 or LU-563 (I think made in Japan) sort of what Landis did on some machines. If it has a big bobbin it is a Juki LU-563. If I had to choose between the two I would go with the Chandsew. I had a PFAFF 1245 and got rid of it as parts were expensive, had a small bobbin, didn't like how you had to move the stitch level to get it into reverse and generally disliked the machine. With that said I am basing that on both machines being in good operating condition. kgg

Nicely done. kgg

I also looked and came to the same conclusion. kgg