kgg

The attachment that I figured, up until now, that was unavailable for portable walking foot machines is a drop down edge guide. So I designed and 3D printed a custom plate to accept an inexpensive Suspended Edge Guide I got off Aliexpress. Installation is simple requiring only the removal / re-installation of one existing screw in the LSZ-1 rear casting. This maybe of interest to those who wish to use a drop down roller guide or drop down flat edge guide on the portable walking foot machines. Photo's: Roller 2: View looking straight in with guide in the down position. The roller is extended to be alongside the feed dog opening in the needle plate. This what I would consider the closest usable position possible. Any closer and the presser foot will rub the roller as well as the feed dog. The dark piece of metal on the bed is a straight edge guide with can be interchanged with the roller. Roller 3: View with the guide in the up position with the roller guide in the extended position. This could go higher up if the roller wasn't extended to the max usable position. Roller 5: Overview with the drop down guide, straight edge guide and the binder and binder tape cup just moved to the side off the machine. The "Cup" is attaches to a C-clamp that I designed and printed for use on both the "Cup" and the Binder Spool Platter. All comments welcomed, good bad or indifferent. kgg

Have you tried winding the bobbin without the half moon shaped guide and guide stand removed then adding more tension on thread tension discs? A photo of the winder may also be helpful. kgg

Would be equal to about V130 so it is slightly smaller / weaker then V138 so I would move your needle size up to a #22 and see if that helps on a test piece. It may also be how you are making the turn that is causing the rogue stitch. kgg

What size of thread are you using? A good needle to thread chart would be https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html If you are using V138 thread you may have to move up to a size 22 or 23 depending on the thickness to give enough room for the thread not to be caught by the side of the needle hole when turning in the corner. kgg

I just watched the video and looked at the parts manual the RockyAussie was kind enough to share. I think another solution that may work if the OP has access to a 3D printer would be to print a flat thin shim in the circle shape of the ring that would set behind the ring and up against the body of the machine. The manual labels them as "Distance Piece" but doesn't say what thickness they are available in. A decent 3D printer should be able to print shims from 0.15mm up. I suspect a shim in the 1+mm range may solve the OP problem. Sorta kinda like what Alder done on some of their machines. kgg

An alternative would be to find someone close to you with a 3 D printer and they should be able to make one for you pretty quickly. kgg

More questions rather then answers. Did you set the travel distance of the needle bar to the needle plate? Is the needle bar set so the needle isn't slightly twisted as it moves to the hook? Did you make any adjustments before this started to happened. A video without the needle plate in place maybe helpful. kgg

Nice video, excellent work. kgg

I took "thread pin" to mean the " Needle Thread Guide Pin " located on the top of the sewing machine. This is typical of some machines with information being very basic unlike manuals provided with brands like Juki. Even the manual provided with the Sailrite portable walking foot provide more and better info. I would call the dealer and request a replacement. kgg

There are number of possible reasons so are: 1. Poor quality of thread and or thread tension on the spool during manufacturing usually found with inexpensive Chinese thread. Use a brand name thread to get consistency. 2. A lot of problems with thread happens with 8 oz spools particularly black color thread. Change spool and or replace with the 1 lb. spools. 3. The distance from the top of the spool of the thread to the guide on the spool holder needs to be at least 2.5 times the height of the spool thread. Adjust spool height. 4. To steep an angle from the guide on the spool holder to the first guide on sewing machine. Preferred angle is as close to horizontal as possible. A photo of your thread path from the spool of thread to the first guide would be helpful in spotting other possible causes. kgg

Thank you. kgg

Love that it is so effective and simple. kgg

Thank you. All my gadgets (Warlock Designs) are 3D printed and I only utilize the existing factory screw / bolt hole locations. The routing of the binding material has since been refined since that photo to accommodate those small runs of left over binding material material or homemade binding material where you only need / have about 30' feet of binding tape. The newer version is basically a bobbin cup with an outside guide that can be used for binding material coming off large spools, small lengths and can also be table mounted for use with either domestic or industrial tables. The cup will hold binding tape up to about 2 1/2" wide. The revised version allows me to wind the binding bobbin which sits inside the cup from any winder (domestic or industrial) and I am able to use it on any of my machines (LSZ, 1181n, 1541,1341). The photo is of the bobbin cup being used in a table top arrangement on a little table for a portable walking foot machine that also has a drop down roller edge guide. I think that portable walking foot machine is the only one that has that type of guide. The head attachment is also pretty versatile as it will accept other attachments like a long straight guides, folders, etc.

Let us know what the inner mechanic comes up with. The Adler 669 looks like it got a lot of potential attachment points to mount things to. kgg

I am sorry to hear about your experience with assembling your new machine. Glad you and your son were not severely injured when the machine got away from you. All the industrial sewing machines can be a chore to install. I think the cylinder bed and patcher machines are the worst to install as they always want to fall forward, nose first until you get a couple of bolts into the rear of the base. The problem is getting machines usually from the floor to the surface of the table and mounted. They are heavy and clumsy at the best of times. I am surprised the machine had that much oil / grease / etc on the surface of the casing to pose a problem. This is a cautionary tale for other buyers of industrial sewing machines and they should wipe the machine down before attempting to lift the machine into place. Maybe before they are shipped, they should be cleaned during the pre delivery process???? kgg

Really nice edging in your photo's. This was my solution for my KOBE LS-1341. This was done with no changes to the feed dog or presser feet. The binder was an inexpensive in line using a swing away binder bracket. This may spark your inner mechanic. kgg

A good chart for needle / thread sizing for future reference is: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html kgg

Sounds like most of us when thinking about trying something new particularly when it could be expensive. The cheapskate in me always gets first priority until proven wrong. i) The 90 degree binders I have measured have about 1.25 mm space so accommodating .5 - 1.0mm thick material through the binder itself shouldn't give much of a problem but bending the thicker / stiffer tape 90 degrees probably will be a chore. That is where a custom binder will or should solve that problem. To mount the 90 degree binder to the machine will also require a specific type of mounting frame. The bookkeeper ain't going to be happy with a that purchase. ii) The standard inline binders I have measured have about 1.75 mm so accommodating .5 - 1.0mm thick material through the binder itself shouldn't be much of a problem. This style of binder can be gently pried to 2+mm. The bookkeeper would be happy. The downfall is you will need some sort of flatbed attachment to mount this type of binder attachment to cylinder bed machines. I have one for my LS 1341 clone. iii) Some people have difficulty with binding irregardless of the style of binder attachment or binding material they use. To get acceptable results it is more then likely it isn't going to be a simple bolt on affair. It is probably going to require a bit of practice til you are satisfied with the end result. Is there a chance you could post a photo of what you are planning on binding maybe someone can suggest a different solution. kgg

The feed dog maybe set to high above the needle plate and when the presser feet come down they are striking the feed dog. kgg

I just tried my 1541S and handwheeled it through a couple of cycles. I found about the same amount of tension throughout the cycle with no noticeable tight spot like hat you are showing in the video. I would try to narrow it down by: i) removing the needle and see if there is any difference. ii) remove belt from handwheel and see if there is any difference. kgg

These are new old stock binding attachments. Price for each is $35 CAD approximately $27 USD. Please view photo's for available sizes. Thanks in Advance,

As promised these are what I have found so far in this style of folder. The 32mm binder has a adjustable front binding tape guide and the small two hole 1" has a built in tape guide. If you are interested pm me. These are "new" old stock. kgg

You never mention what size of thread or needle combination you are using. My suggestion to try would be to go up one needle size to give just a little bigger hole size so the thread isn't as tight in the hole. If that doesn't work when you are making the turn and lifting the pressor foot slightly make sure the needle is almost bottomed out before twisting the item. kgg

That is what I figured you had done with that style of edge guide but others may have not gotten it. I do like the outside guide mounted to the cover of the PFAFF nice simple simple solution. kgg

The advantage of a spool holder it allows you take advantage of the lower per meter cost vs small flats. In the long run it is a lot cheaper to buy say a 304 mm (12 in ) diameter spool holding 150 meters of binding tape then a 4m flat of binding tape and you wind up with less wastage. On short runs once you are finished just pin the end to the spool and store for latter use rather them throwing out the unused piece left over from the flat. Yes the thinner binding tape will go through easily but there lays the problem. If you put a thin binding tape say .2 mm through a binder that is custom made for 1mm tape it may have to much free space to wonder around and have a tendency to slide about inside the folder which may affect how it feeds over the edge of the material. I think you need at least two binders one to handle the 1mm thick tape and another one that can handle the typical thickness size of binding tapes you use. The cost is about €99.00 or $133 CAD or $104 USD that to me is expensive. For the price of one of those binders I can buy 6 standard binders. I do have some of those style binders from when I bought all the new old stock binders from a company going out of business last year. I will check and see what sizes I have. To cost will be awful lot cheaper. kgg